Replace/Repair 3 hp Jet Bandsaw Motor

[daniel coyle]

I am looking at either overhauling or replacing my 3 hp single phase motor on an 18" 2006 Jet Bandsaw.

Does anyone know where I can find a decent replacement that would work (even if it is not a JET OEM)

Also, same question, anyone know where I could find a 5hp single phase option? Saw lots of stuff on Ebay but not sure about all of it.

Thanks

[Mike Henderson]

Just interested - what happened to your existing 3HP motor? Unless it burned up, there's a lot you can do yourself to rehabilitate a motor.

Mike

[daniel coyle]

Mike, the bearing burned up. I dropped it off to get looked at and, potentially, fixed. Repairman said that given how much the drive shaft is wiggling it could need more rather than less work, including some machining (if the bearing failed enough that the inner race got scored.) I don't have the bandwidth to take on even a small(ish) project like overhauling it. Also, have wanted to get a 5hp on this machine for a while. I do a lot of resawing on it.

[lowell holmes]

I would explore this site.

https://www.grainger.com/content/grainger-choice?cm_mmc=PPC:+MSN+PPC&s_kwcid=AL!2966!10!8951248076!62045446613&ef_id=XRqjTwAABYid85Dj:20190702002031:s

I would buy a new motor, you don't want to deal with questionable merchandise.

[Matt Day]

First step is to identify the motor mount type. Next is RPM. Go from there.

Used motors are cheap, but depending on age and use may need new bearings and a good cleaning inside.

[Jordan Rago]

Hey Daniel. I'd try https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/jet-parts/

They have a lot of parts for different machines. You can also call them. They have US based customer service, so they can help you out and point you in the right direction, even if they don't have the motor.

[daniel coyle]

Thanks for the website links guys. There were some solid options there. The 5hp motors were a bit spendy but there was replacements that were not too too bad. Matt, where do you go to look for used motors?

[David Kumm]

As stated, first look at the frame numbers, probably Metric IEC. Then check sources to find out if a larger hp motor can be had with the same frame. Machines have lots of wire packed into small frames now so it may not be able to find a 5 hp in the proper frame size. If not, you will need to swap pulley and belt as the arbor will be a different diameter and located slightly differently. Even if you find a new larger motor in the same size, you will need to swap the starter overloads for the 5 hp amp draw. Normally, I have motors rewound but small cheap motors are generally not worth the effort so new is the way to go. Bearing failure is the most common reason for motor failure, especially with small frame motors that tend to run hotter. Dave

[Bill Dufour]

I would replace the bearings. A quality motor will have bearing numbers on the label. Should take about 30 minutes once the motor is out. You will need a gear puller or bearing splitter to remove them. If you are cheap a couple of pieces of angle iron and some blocking with a dead blow hammer should work. Use a deep socket to install.
To replace biggest problem is finding a quality metric shaft motor or reaming the pulley to English bore.
Bill D

[Pete Staehling]

I would replace the bearings. A quality motor will have bearing numbers on the label. Should take about 30 minutes once the motor is out. You will need a gear puller or bearing splitter to remove them. If you are cheap a couple of pieces of angle iron and some blocking with a dead blow hammer should work. Use a deep socket to install.
To replace biggest problem is finding a quality metric shaft motor or reaming the pulley to English bore.
Bill D
Yes, not a huge project. You may even find that the old 3 hp runs better than you expect once it has new bearings. Just me but I'd consider doing that first even if I was going to eventually upgrade to 5 hp. It can be done quickly, will buy you some time so you can take your time figuring out what 5 hp option you want, and you can sell the 3 hp when /if you do upgrade.

[Bill Dufour]

Bearing cost should be under $30. Get sealed bearings not shielded regardless of the originals. If I was doing this job I would cut the supply line and install a male and female cord end, sized big enough to carry a 5HP motor. it will make the install much easier.
Bill D

[daniel coyle]

Thanks for all the info. I am tempted to do the repair and/or conversion myself but can't be sidetracked as its my busy season and I would be pretending to be productive by spending time on it at the cost of other things which are more critical but far less fun (even if fixing motors isn't famously fun.) I have lots of great info from this. If anyone has a link(s) to sites that sell used motors that would be great. I had trouble figuring out the right search terms for ebay so I wouldn't end up with 1000 items to scroll through.

[Matt Day]

Daniel,
First of all I googled “wood icicle helmets” and found this article:
http://www.thebirdwheel.com/wooden-bike-helmets
Great work! I like to mountain bike so it’s form and function to me.

Regarding used motors, they come up a lot at in person auctions (woodworking, metalworking, etc), can be had from motor shops, or simply on Craigslist, FB Marketplace, etc.

Replacing bearings would be the first thing I’d do too. This is how I do it:
1) Mark the end bells so they go back on in the same orientation
2) remove long bolts connecting end bells
3) Remove end bells - sometimes you’ll need to persuade it - tapping a screwdriver with a mallet should do the trick.
4) take pictures of how everything goes together before taking things off the shafts
5) use a bearing separator or bearing puller to get them off.
6) reverse to reassemble - putting the bearings in the oven at 250 for 10-15 minutes will enlarge the bearing slightly and make it easier to put on a shaft. Freezer will do the opposite if going in a captured area.

Post pics of you get stuck.

[daniel coyle]

Thanks Matt and thanks for checking out my stuff :)

I just got a call from the repair guy and seem to have gotten luckier than anticipated. The motor is not done in the way I (and he) had feared. So, I will re install it and use the info here on this thread to more thoroughly search for an eventual 5hp replacement.

Thanks so much. There was a lot of participation in the thread and I hope it comes in useful to others searching for similar in the future.

[Randall J Cox]

I think its odd that a bearing went. I have rebearing'ed very old Delta machines and one Powermatic machine over the years (15" planer, 2 old Delta band saws, Delta 15" drill press, 6x48 belt sander, old Dewalt radial arm saw, etc) and even the bearings from 1942 were still working, albiet very rough. All bearings were still functioning from the 1940s machines. I can see where if you had any slop from a bearing failing, it could damage the other moving parts though..... Randy

[daniel coyle]

Yep. That is what it was. There was definitely slop in the shaft and the repair person thought it was likely gonna be worse than just the bearing. It blew up and threw bearings but fortunately they didn't get into the windings etc. And the slop didn't impact the other holding on the far end of the shaft. The repair guy didn't seem to think it was unusual but I also didn't ask. May be just that what Jet makes and what is made by powermatic or made in the past is not the same quality?

[Adam Herman]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/
another good source for motors.

[David Kumm]

Motors are an area where companies can save money and consumers have no way to evaluate their quality. Old large frame cast iron motors were less efficient and probably had poorer insulation but they tend to last forever. I've got over 50 machines ranging from the 1920s to current. The only motors I've had to replace or rewind are newer small frame or Euro motors. Better insulation allows them to pack more wire into a smaller container but they run hotter, as do the bearings. The bearings tend to be sealed and since seals are contact seals they also cause friction and heat. That is compensated for by using smaller bearings that can run faster but also have less load capacity so they are stressed more. If I buy a used machine that is less than 20 years old, with a steel frame or Euro motor, I find out the cost of replacement or rewinding and factor at least 1/2 into my price as I figure it is 50-50 that I will need to do some motor work. Dave

[lowell holmes]

Grainger has new motors. When you put one on your saw, you will be fixed. You just have to identify the motor you need.
I have used them.