What do you use a Oscillating Multi-Tool for?

[Andrew More]

So I just don't get Oscillating Multi-tools. However, they seem pretty popular with all the major brands have one or more in their tool line up, along with main stream tools like drills, sawzalls, circular saws, and the like. I understand they've got a bit of a niche when installing flooring, and getting under trim and the like. Otherwise I do not see people using them, and I watch a lot of youtube videos.

So it seems a very niche tool to me, and some of it's operations I can do with tools I already own, like random orbit sanders, grinders, or even a Dremel.

Is there some really awesome task these tools excel at that's common place, or at they more like those right angle drills, a perfect tool for it's niche, with high demand from pros doing that job?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

When we had an expansion built for our kitchen and all the flooring in the kitchen, dining room and hallway replaced professionally, the flooring guy used the oscillating tool combined with a scrap piece of flooring to cut the bottom of the door moldings so they didn't have to be removed to install the new flooring. It worked well for him.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Flush trim door jams so you can lay tiles under. Or flooring as Ken says.
Drywall cutting. Plunge the blade in, it will cut the drywall fast and slow when you hit the stud. Stop, move and repeat. When you cut between studs, if you hit a wire or pipe, the damage is real minimal. Can cut out a drywall patch and have enough stud to put the drywall back. Given time, I could think of more.
Yup, a tool that has few things that it excels at, but those that it does, it does like no other. HD has a Dewalt cordless on sale now.

[Mark Klosky]

I had one of the early FEIN Oscillating Multitools when they first came out. They are great for making cuts that other tools cannot without having to destroy everything around it. I have used it for removing window stools only without having to take apart the entire trim set. Also like Ken mentioned they are great for undercutting door jambs for new hardwood or tile, and also for trimming protruding framing (think swollen or displaced knot in a sill plate) for a flatter drywall install.

I was real happy to see the multitools become popular as that also meant more suppliers of multitool blades, which led to much better pricing, wider assortment, and improved quality. FEIN used to rape us so badly over the cost of blades that you almost wanted to cry if you hit a nail. Imagine $28-$35 each for blades and you will understand what I am saying.

[Mike Kees]

They excel at cuts in finish grade work. Think thin kerf,no tearout cleanup tool. I have one in my tool trailer and it is used constantly. Once you own one you figure out real quickly that it was a purchase that should of happened way sooner.

[Dick Mahany]

In addition to the uses mentioned so far, I have used mine to make clean cuts in tall base molding in order to remove sections for retrofit cabinetry without having to remove the entire base moulding, cut and refasten. I have also used it to make precise openings in sheet rock for expansion of existing electrical gang boxes as well as openings for new retrofit boxes without the need to patch or paint afterward. In one case, I had to cut through an existing gang box behind finished sheetrock to remove it in sections without damaging the wiring. It worked flawlessly. The toothless scraper blade works wonders for removing caulks and silicones. My model is a 10 year old Fein MM250 and although it is a limited use tool, nothing else has come close to it when needed.

Here are a few examples.

Needed to remove double gang box and enlage to triple gang without damaging sheetrock or wiring. A few carefully chosen surgical cuts allowed the box to be removed in pieces. This then allowed a prybar to carefully pry the mounting nails and wings from the stud.
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Opened wall with precise cut to replace with a triple gang box. No patching or sheetrock was needed.
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Needed to make a precise opening in wall to add an in-wall deep cabinet. No patching or painting required here either.
412134

[Mike Cutler]

They are not a tool that you will use every day, but when you need one, you will be glad you have it. Mine had been sitting in it's case for a decade until a month or so ago.
I have been slowly been replacing barn board and battens on my house these past few weeks. Being able to cut a batten, or a trim piece, to remove the barn board, without unnecessarily damaging every thing around it, has been a big saver for me. It's also enabled me to get behind trim pieces and cut nails, instead of using a wrecking bar to rip everything out.
You can do some of the more "delicate" remodeling tasks with one.

[Jamie Buxton]

I think they're pretty crude tools. I have one, but don't use it very often. There is one operation I've found for it is which is worth the cost of the tool. When I'm installing built-in cabinets in a room which already has baseboards, the Fein cuts the baseboards without having to take them off.

[Lee Schierer]

In addition to the jobs above you can cut sheet metal duct work, PVC pipe, cut nails, scrape of old putty or glue, sand hard to reach places, make openings in dry wall or panels, etc

[Paul F Franklin]

A couple of uses that haven't been mentioned: cutting off shims when installing doors or cabinets, and cutting through sheetrock inside corners when you need to remove a section from the wall or ceiling and don't want to disturb the adjacent surface. I've also used it to remove studs without disturbing the sheetrock on one side when installing a pocket door during a bathroom remodel. I removed the sheetrock from the bathroom side (since it was being redone anyway) but then used the multitool to separate the studs from the sheetrock on the opposite side of the wall by cutting through the sheetrock screws and the nails holding the studs to the plates. This let me install the pocket door frame without having to patch sheetrock and trim in the hallway. I had to touch up where the new screws went into the pocket door frame but that was trivial compared to having to replace a big section of sheetrock and trim.

[andrew whicker]

I've used it to make crude lap joints in a cedar fence I built. Used it to make a nice lap joint in a dining table (finish with chisels for high quality). I've also used it to cut a sprinkler pipe in order to fix it. And as everyone has mentioned, house stuff. Don't need clearance.

I think it's a pretty cool tool.

[Eric Anderson]

Remove grout between tiles.

[Tom M King]

Many things. Current use is cutting 18th Century hand forged nails off behind the molded edge siding on a donor house, to be used as replacements on another 18th Century house. We didn't want to lose the nail heads, and each one is different, so it needs to stay in it's original hole. It will be nailed in place with modern siding nails, but hopefully those heads won't be as noticeable with the large wrought iron nail heads also visible.

[John K Jordan]

I have a Fein Multimaster. I don't use it every day but when I need it there is often nothing else that works as well.

I use it most in places where other tools won't fit.

[Tim M Tuttle]

While doing woodworking? Very little. I flipped a house last year and used it every single day. Easily the most valuable tool on the jobsite. I can't imagine not having it during that flip. We were constantly reaching for it.

[Art Mann]

I use one to remove moldings I need to preserve where prying them up will result in splitting. Just slide the thin metal cutting blade behind the molding and saw the nail off flush. Doing it that way, you do not have to remove the nails. Just leave them in place when you replace the molding using new nail positions.

[Andrew More]

Lots of good feedback here, thanks.

I hadn't thought about the drywall cutting, but then again I've also got a dremel with a drywall bit which seems to work well for this. Has anybody used both a dremel (or drywall cutting tool like this (https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/cutout-tools/20v-max-drywall-cutout-tool-bare/dcs551b) ) and an oscillating multi-tool? Just curious which you prefer and why?

Doing trim work in ways that don't related to installing flooring seems a very good niche for it, I'll have to think about it.

For a lot of other small cuts I find myself reaching for my jigsaw, or bandsaw, depending on how portable the piece is.

[John K Jordan]

Lots of good feedback here, thanks.

I hadn't thought about the drywall cutting, but then again I've also got a dremel with a drywall bit which seems to work well for this. Has anybody used both a dremel ... and an oscillating multi-tool? Just curious which you prefer and ...

Again, it depends on the cut and the clearance. If I need to cut right against something else, such as a floor or an obstruction, the dremel simply won't fit while a multitool with the right bit will. I've used mine in many cases where nothing else would easily fit. Sure, I could have don't it some other way but the multi tool was quicker and easier. I've used mine for everything from installing my dust collector to trimming for deck boards and house siding.

You don't have to spend $3-400 on a Fein set - these days there are much cheaper options and while the Fein is arguably a higher quality, the others will all work. Maybe just get one and try it to see what it will do, then keep it around until the right job comes up.

JKJ

[Tony Zona]

All of the above, and also for sanding lathe turnings while they are on the lathe.

I’ve cut drywall openings with both this and the Rotozip. Both are good, and have uses, but the multi tool makes less dust for me.

The multitool is great for sanding old window sills for refinishing.

[Andrew More]

Maybe just get one and try it to see what it will do, then keep it around until the right job comes up.

You seem to have more money than I do, I usually wait for the job, and THEN buy the tool. :) Doesn't hurt that I've got a Home Depot and Lowes 5 minutes from the house. I've been somewhat on the fence, but nothing I've been doing recently has required one. When it does I'll get it.

[Ed Henderson]

I've used it for most of the jobs described above. recently I replaced/upgraded the striker plates on all my exterior doors to 10" security plates. Nothing I've tried works as quickly or neatly as my Fein.

[Jim Becker]

I own one (Rigid) that I bought for a specific project where I was replacing some exterior door trim and it was the right tool for the job. Maybe I'll use it again sometime...

[Kevin Jenness]

I got by without one until last week when I was asked to run some baseboard with 3/8" stopped grooves for air movement. Tough to clean up the mill marks with anything else. That and clean flush cuts in awkward spots where a sawzall would be far too crude and a chisel too laborious.

[Charlie Velasquez]

Lots of good feedback here, thanks.

I hadn't thought about the drywall cutting, but then again I've also got a dremel with a drywall bit which seems to work well for this. Has anybody used both a dremel (or drywall cutting tool like this (https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/cutout-tools/20v-max-drywall-cutout-tool-bare/dcs551b) ) and an oscillating multi-tool? Just curious which you prefer and why?
.

Last summer parts of Iowa got 10” of rain in 6 hours. Our basement flooded. We had to remove the bottom 12” of drywall as quickly as we could. I started with my rotary tool with a drywall bit. My son used his oscillating tool with a blade similar to this.
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I have used my rotary tool to cut drywall through several remodels. My son had not done any drywall work in his life prior to this.

His cuts were done faster and straighter and with less dust than my cuts. Made patching a lot easier. Was easier and safer to cut out electrical boxes, too. I will not go back to a rotary for drywall unless there is a compelling application.

[Pete Staehling]

I bought one when installing a bathroom vanity. It was great to cut out a section of baseboard moulding. I haven't used it since, at least not yet.

[Gary Thinglum]

Over the past two years we have been remodeling a house we purchased in Florida. I have used the oscillating multi-tool many times. Probably most for cutting the moulding for tile and laminate flooring. Place a piece of new tile or laminate flooring on the floor under the blade and cut the door trim off to the height you need. . It works great. Also, for cutting outlet holes in drywall like other have said. Used it for scraping off old grout from ceramic tile which we removed. It worked great for that, slow but worked. Used it when I installed vinyl siding on my garage. The only drawback is the price of blades. I have been purchasing them from Harbor Freight. Maybe not a good as some of the name brands but, when they are on sale they are fairly reasonable. I purchased the Ridgid Tool because of the warranty. Great tool, wouldn't be without it. P.S. Harbor Freight also sells a washer which converts off brand blades so they will fit on other brand multi-tools.
Great tool !!!!

[Bob Falk]

+1
Also, I found the grout blade useful to make precise cuts in old plaster in my 1920's house

[glenn bradley]

My use is few and far between so I got the Harbor Freight. Used it just yesterday to cut a piece of installed trim to allow another (afterthought) piece to go under. Made a fussy job a no-brainer. Well worth $15 (with coupon).

[Joe Calhoon]

I bought a Fein to do some repairs on my retail building. Using it for some of the already mentioned tasks. I never thought it would be useful in the the shop but discovered it works well for sanding panel raises.

[Günter VögelBerg]

I have a Makita and I rarely use it, but when i do I am sure glad I have it. It's not really a woodworking tool but more of a general carpentry tool. It was a life saver when I had to cut grooves into an existing wood floor to put in new thresholds. It is also handy for sanding tight places and stripping paint. I've even used it to cut copper pipe in spots too tight for my cutters. It is great for cutting damaged fasteners flush with a surface.

However, I can't use it for long until my hands start to really hurt. The vibration is brutal. Or I am a wimp. Probably that.

[Edwin Santos]

In addition to the above applications, you can use it to cut dovetails. Here is a guy demonstrating how he made a dovetailed bench using an oscillating tool to help cut away waste:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_tvpVozSrc

[Jack Frederick]

I have the Fein and it has been excellent. I call it the "tool I can't afford to use" due to the cost of the blades, BUT, when I need it, it is a wonder to use. Plunge cuts, spaces nothing else will reach, adjustable blade position, wood, metal or plastic, etc. If you aren't sure if you want one, but the Harbor Freight unit. My GC had one when we did the re-model of the place a few years ago and it did everything my Fein did at a fraction of the price.

[Frank Pratt]

Needed to remove double gang box and enlage to triple gang without damaging sheetrock or wiring. A few carefully chosen surgical cuts allowed the box to be removed in pieces. This then allowed a prybar to carefully pry the mounting nails and wings from the stud.
412132

Opened wall with precise cut to replace with a triple gang box. No patching or sheetrock was needed.
412133

Needed to make a precise opening in wall to add an in-wall deep cabinet. No patching or painting required here either.
412134


Dick, firstly, I want to be clear that I'm not dumping on you or criticizing; you just happened to post photos of what I'm talking about.

I've had a Fein since the days when they were the only game in town. It's a very good quality tool, but one that seldom gets used. But as many others have said, when you gotta have it, you gotta have it. There are a few situations where nothing else will get the job done. That being said, it's not a good general purpose tool. The cutting action is very inefficient and it's slow and blades are expensive.

But it seems like this tool is largely a solution in search of a problem. The above photos that Dick posted illustrate uses for the tool, but in all 3 of those cases, I'd have used a good drywall saw & had the hole cut just as accurately in less time that it takes to get the multi tool out & ready to use. I see them being used for all kinds of things on youtube that would just be better done with hand tools.

[Günter VögelBerg]

Anyone used these?

https://www.amazon.com/Qbit-SQ1000-S-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Single/dp/B01GKKE2W0

[Randy Heinemann]

My feeling on this tool is that it has invaluable uses in everyday home construction or remodeling but, beyond that, it doesn't have any great use in woodworking like furniture or cabinet making. So, if you are a remodeler or home construction guy or are renovating your own home, they most likely have many uses. Otherwise not. I know I could have used one 40+ years ago when I renovated my own home but not now in my woodworking endeavors.

[Günter VögelBerg]

forgot one thing: removing grout

[Roger Feeley]

Ha! I cut door moldings with mine last weekend.
I’ve mine fairly often to get into oddball places.

[Leo Graywacz]

Cut off shims.
Cut base or crown when you are installing new cabinets.
Cutting nails behind moldings.
Cutting nails left behind when pulling moldings.
Making holes in wood or sheetrock for electrical boxes.
When things are glued down like carpet, laminate or flooring use the scraping blade.
Cutting casings for flooring to go under if you don't have an undercut saw.


I had a window to make a frame style casing for. It was a typical sill and casing type window. I needed to cut the sill flush with the rest of the casing jamb. There was a faucet in the way as it was the sink window. I told the home owner it was going to be a fairly crude cut and it would need touching up. I used the half round blade and it was the right blade to use. The cut came out very well and needed very little touch up. No way it could have been done any other way without removing the sill and causing more problems with the window.

[Allan Speers]

Indespensible for around the house.

The only "woodworking" task I use it for is when making picture frames.
For supporting the corners, I don't like banging in standard V-nails, so:

I use the oscillating tool, against a support, to cut 2 parallel slots across the back of each corner. (I also have a home-made depth stop, similar to what Festool offers with their tool)

Then I glue in 2 thin maple strips, across each corner.

It's fast, and looks really nice.


FWIW, I use the Bosch. It's nicely balanced and very powerful, and their blades are fantastic. - But if I had the money, I'd get the Festool.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

IMO it can be an interesting tool for home repair and remodeling as already mentioned. Useful on floor, wall and ceiling including at kitchen and bathroom for some punctual tasks where would be very difficult to use any other power tool, but virtually all the tasks it really can do better than other power tools, you can do with manual tools with similar time but some higher physical effort and skills. It is a slow tool for almost any task it can fit.

I use my own Makita multitool for a couple of "unconventional" tasks also: I have no ultrasonic cleaner, so I attach it to a stainless bow and voila, I have mine. It works very well as a regular ultrasonic cleaner. Great to dismantling a home made router table with parts attached with (cured) glue and brad nails with minimum damage. I also use it as my triangular power sander to reach some difficult spots.

I purchased my multitool really expecting very low application and understanding probably it never will be worth - I purchased as consequence from that strange "virus" pushing some of us to purchase tools (to my favor, I bravely resisted it for several years). Perhaps for my low expectations on the purchase I was surprised for the uses I already had put it!

[Ted Calver]

I bought the HF version with a 20% coupon and used it to remove a small section of badly warped deck board. Made a nice clean cut on top of the joist so I didn't have to pull the entire board.

[Jon Endres]

Cut a nice clean hole in hardwood flooring and subfloor underneath to install an in-floor electrical receptacle.

Lots of other uses mentioned above. I got mine for $20 from a used tool dealer in town, he got it as part of a box lot. It's a Ryobi, that takes the Ridgid heads, and I have Ryobi 18V tools so it was worth it.

[Jon Snider]

After reading this, almost indispensable, right? I use mine frequently in building boats.

I’m often reminded of the oscillating saws to remove plater casts, the ones you can push (gently) against skin and not get cut. I’ve often wondered if the same is true for multisaws (doubtful), but never had the urge to test it :).

[Leo Graywacz]

I'm sure it's just the blade.

[Keith Pitman]

I have used my Harbor Freight model to remove caulking from the top of my camper. First I soften the caulk with a heat gun, then I use the vibrating “putty knife” blade to remove the caulk. The tool does a much better job than a regular putty knife and much faster.

[johnny means]

Emergencies.

[Phillip Mitchell]

If you do remodeling, repair, or even new construction with any frequency and you don't have a multi-tool in the mix, you're missing out on efficiency. I've used one for years working as a carpenter and I'm still finding new ways to use one. I approach certain situations and problems with a different mindset with a good multi-tool in my arsenal. It is useful in all types of carpentry work from frame to finish.

For strictly woodworking, I don't think I've ever used one except in really one-off scenarios where I was getting creative and used the multi-tool because it was available, but probably could have done the task another way.

The blades are expensive, but the I purpose specific blades instead of the "wood with nails" blades which don't seem to cut either particularly well. If there's a good chance of metal, I will use a metal cutting blade, which is much more durable than the wood and wood with nails blade. There are also strictly wood blades that have teeth that look like a Japanese crosscut saw that are capable of pretty impressive accuracy and clean cuts even in finished trim / interior woodwork if you have some experience and a steady hand.

Anyone who says they aren't worth their weight to have around just hasn't been in enough situations to prove the point yet. I can tell you that they are as valuable in their own way to the carpentry world as cordless impact drivers have become.

[Warren Wilson]

My experience is similar to most: a crude tool that is seldom used, but excellent at some things. I have used mine as above for trim and cutting fairly straight lines in drywall. But I didn’t see anyone mention its virture of needing little room to operate. For instance, cutting rotten flange bolts from a toilet in a tight spot. Because its stroke is so small, it can get into places another cutting tool cannot.

Seldom used, but very useful when needed. And not a fine woodworking tool by any stretch.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have two HF single speed cheapies. (Had three but burned one up from overuse).
I keep a straight blade on one and the semi circular blade on the other.

I also have a cordless Makita & have used a corded Rockwell & a corded Ridgid.

Night and day difference between the HF ones and the better ones.

For years I scoffed at the idea that the HF tools did the same job as ones costing three to ten times more money. Not longer.

The big heavy Makita is a pleasure to use. Plus it just flat out cuts straighter, faster and with much less effort.

The HF tool is a great way to get one and see for yourself how much use you can get out of one. Once you find that out, then you can upgrade (or not) to something better.

[Ole Anderson]

Lots of things including cutting openings in drywall.

[Mike Kees]

In my mind a sledge hammer is crude, a sawzall is crude until one is experienced using it,even then I do not know anyone who would cut miters in trim with one. An oscillating tool is something that easily cuts thin kerf cuts with precision in awkward hard to get to places. I would say that home renovation/general carpenter work is what this tool is all about.I am also sure there will be woodworking applications in my shop as time goes on.

[Michael Weber]

Having just striped a 100 year old bow window with 42 panes of glass I find the Fein profile sanding attachment invaluable for sanding the contoured internal muntins. This is not the regular triangular sanding attachments, which is also great, but this. 412239

[keith micinski]

EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!! How did it take four pages for that to be the answer? If you remodel anything, ever, you will use it for every single trade. I also can't believe how many people are calling it a crude tool. I frequently cut moldings and trim that are already installed when installing cabinetry or vanities, or for instance today's Murphy bed install, perfectly to a cabinetry level finish. At least twice a week I look at it and say out loud how did contractors live without this followed up by if they took this away I would find a new profession. The only negative with this tool, and I mean the only negative, is how they are still charging a large fortune for blades that don't last more then a few small cuts.

[Mike Cutler]

EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!! I also can't believe how many people are calling it a crude tool.
The only negative with this tool, and I mean the only negative, is how they are still charging a large fortune for blades that don't last more then a few small cuts.

Keith
Yeah, that point of view caught me by surprise also.
I do not use one often, but when I do, it is definitely not to do something crude with it. In fact, quite the opposite.
The blades are $$$$, but I rationalize their cost by the amount of time and rework I would have had to do, had I not had the tool as an option.

[Leo Graywacz]

It's not a crude tool, but it's not a precision tool either. Depends on the users skill I suppose.

[Jack Frederick]

As it goes in re-modeling, things don't always proceed in a straight line, so the order of operations gets out of wack. I replaced the exterior door a couple years ago. Recently pulled the beat wall to wall and refinished the fir floor. Had to make new baseboard and finally needed a new interior threshold for the door. Door casing was to long. 5 minutes with the Fein and I had two good cuts and was able to drive the new threshold in. Easy peasie, with that tool.

[Marc Fenneuff]

Indispensible for making a straight cut in a hard-to-reach area or any place where a precise cut is needed but there's no clearance for a saw with a fence (jigsaw/circular saw/sawzall). I also know of no other power tool that lets you put your straightedge/speed square right on the line, alowing you to zip the blade right along it. With practice you can draw the blade along a line, freehand, forever.

[johnny means]

I own a cordless and a corded version. They both sit idle for months at a time. As I build, cabinetry and mill work in a shop for installation elsewhere, using either one usually is a sign that I made some error in planning and/or preparation. I wouldn't call them crude, as I can achieve very precise results, if needed, but I find them to be unpleasant to use. This being not only because of the noise and vibration, but also because, the stress of taking a handheld tool to finished, delivered, and installed produce where there is no room for error.

[Tom Willoughby]

I started out with the Harbor Freight tool with a cord and then purchased the DeWalt battery version, which I find great for all sorts of home repair. I find the oscillating tool great for drywall and installed trim work. I found that the oscillating saw was particularly effective at coping trim, which is much faster than the manual coping saw that I used before.

I have not used it for any furniture building.

[Terry Wawro]

Years ago I was rebuilding a set of stairs. We wanted to use the existing stringers so we pried off the old treads, only to discover they were installed with lots of construction adhesive. After the treads were up, there was a mess of wood and glue bits left on the stringers. I tried removing the hardened glue with a heat gun and putty knife but it was taking forever. After an hour and getting nowhere fast I remembered my multi-tool came with a scraper blade. Bingo! The mulit-tool cut through it like butter.
Well worth the $$. I will never be without one again.

[Keith Outten]

Like most of you I rarely need my multi-tool on a daily basis for general woodworking. BUT, I use it daily to cut tabs on sheet that I machine with my CNC Router and it saves a huge amount of time and saves my Corian material from breaking at the tabs and damaging the edges so it saves money as well.

IMO it's an indispensable tool whether it's a Fein or a HF model.

[Ron Kellison]

I know it's not woodworking but I trimmed off a toilet bowl flange bolt that was a bit too long to allow the plastic cap to be installed.

Your mileage may vary!

[Ole Anderson]

Yesterday I slipped a knife scraper blade in one to remove a large sticker from my new compressor. Been working on it for 5 minutes with WD40 and a credit card to get 1/3 of it off. The multi-tool took the rest off in 20 seconds.

[Frank Pratt]

All this talk of removing labels has me wondering how well it would work for getting the old graphics off of my 5th wheel. On the side that faces south during winter storage, the decals are badly faded & cracking.

[Tony Pisano]

The usual stuff like door and floor trim for tile installation, but it really was the only tool for one project. Was redoing a room for my sweetie and she wanted a funky angled gnome-like door cut out in an existing closet. The kicker was I had to cut it out of the existing wall, so the door would match the panelled wall, which wouldn't be so bad, but she also didn't want any trim at all around the door. My Rockwell vibrating tool with a wide blade and slow careful cutting did the trick, and she was pleased as punch with the door.

[Ole Anderson]

All this talk of removing labels has me wondering how well it would work for getting the old graphics off of my 5th wheel. On the side that faces south during winter storage, the decals are badly faded & cracking.
I wouldn't try a sharp blade, one goof and you are digging into the paint. Use a heat gun to remove the vinyl, then get a rubber wheel for your drill to remove the adhesive.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3m+stripe+off+wheel&crid=NZ9MK0ZVJO8E&sprefix=3m+stripe%2Caps%2C159&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_9