How do I correct this shaper problem?

[Tim Einwalter]

I have a "new to me" Grizzly 1.5hp shaper. Tried to run a test piece tonight and it caught on the edge of the distance fence board. Grabbed a speed square and the one fence isn't square to the table. I see no provisions to adjust the fence for squareness so I'm not sure how to proceed.

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Tim,
You may be able to install a shim between the fence and the support it is attached to. You could also probably have the out of square fence planed to correct the problem
David

[Ken Fitzgerald]

What is the model number of the Grizzly shaper?

[Tim Einwalter]

It's a older version of the 1035.

Honestly, I can see why people don't like the Grizzly fences. There's way too much back lash in the lead screw and tightening the fence screws throws the adjustment off. I'm wondering if maybe that's why the fence is out of square.

[Mike Wilkins]

You may need to replace those wooden fences with something more robust. I purchased a length of Woodpeckers fast-track to replace the wood fences on my Delta shaper. Much more robust and channels to attach feather boards and hold-downs.

[Bill Dufour]

Set the fences so they are in line. Run it over the jointer keeping the shaper fence casting bottom flat against the jointer fence that should square it up. Make sure not to take off too much or you risk hitting the fence mount screws with the jointer knives. You may have to counter bore them deeper.
Another way that may work is to remove both fence boards and run them through the planer so both faces are parallel. This method only works if the casting are machined correctly.
Bil lD

[J.R. Rutter]

Set the fences so they are in line. Run it over the jointer keeping the shaper fence casting bottom flat against the jointer fence that should square it up. Make sure not to take off too much or you risk hitting the fence mount screws with the jointer knives. You may have to counter bore them deeper.

+1 I've actually seen this in shaper manuals. Works great if your jointer is up to snuff.

[Mike Cutler]

The Delta Fences suffer from the same issue.
First thing you have to make sure of is that your two pieces of fence are absolutely perfect. Once you know that you can either run them through the jointer while attached to the fence casting, or shim them into position.
I chose the shim method, which is tedious, but once you get it done, it's stable. I was reticent to use the jointer, only because I did not want to risk catching one of the bolt heads on the fence.
I see that a lot of folks just make their own too. Once you see the price of an after market fence, if you can actually find one that is really for sale, you'll know why people make their own fence. ;)

[Patrick Kane]

Yep, i always liked the idea of an aigner fence with the adjustable fingers. One recently came up for sale on FOG for like $1600-1800, and it had taken a heck of a beating in an accident.

I would go with the jointer method. OR, better yet, just replace the entire fence face similar to a recent thread. That guy had replaceable inserts for creating zero clearance to the cutterhead.

[Larry Edgerton]

The way I have done this is to take the hood off. On the bed of the jointer I apply 3M Stickit paper. Then being careful to keep the pressure centered I run the hood back and forth on the sandpaper until I am seeing fresh marks all the way. Otherwise you have to mess with every fence, and I have way too many fences for different things to adjust every one. Usually only takes a few minutes. Make sure everything is tightened down as if you were running stock. Works for me......

I have had to do this to every shaper I have had, but I expect if I ever buy a Martin I will be able to skip this step.:D

PS. I have used one of those shapers at someone else's shop. I would not get crazy and consider it a stepping stone..... Just saying.