Inaccurate jobsite saw rips

[Taylor Swedberg]

First post here. I've been doing woodworking projects for a couple of years now, using a Ridgid jobsite saw. I've noticed that sometimes the end of a rip takes off more than where the blade enters the wood. It might be a 32nd or a 16th larger where the blade exits.

Is there a word for this? Is the cause bad form? Should I turn the blade off when it is still against the wood and let it stop spinning before removing my piece?

Thanks for advice.

[Jim Becker]

The fence to blade alignment is probably way out...and getting it true on a job-site type saw can be a challenge, unfortunately. This can also setup a dangerous kickback situation.

[Taylor Swedberg]

I considered that, but isn't is okay to skew the fence slightly? I was under the impression it can be advantageous in order to avoid kickback and isn't an issue because the leading edge of the blade is what cuts. Is this a misconception?

[Bryan Lisowski]

Having the end of the fence out a tad is fine. I had the same saw and adjusting the fence is a challenge, you could add a clamp if it is actually moving on you. I think you need to test if the fence is flexing during the cut. What are you using for outfeed support?

[Tom Trees]

Its the back of the blade that catches the work causing kickback.
If your fence is going to be off by a few thousands, it better be further away from the blade at the back end, as not to pinch the work between the fence.
Guessing your burning some, and also giving your motor a hard time while your at it.
Tablesaws are not to be taken lightly, set your fence right.
either parallel with the mitre slots or as said away from the blade at the back.
You can then move the table to align mitre slot with the blade using the pick a tooth method.
Best video on youtube right now, is "mastering your tablesaw."
Download it before you get hurt buddy.
Good luck
Tom

[Frank Pratt]

I second Jim's comments.

In my opinion, the fence should be exactly parallel to the blade, or perhaps just a very few thousandths of an inch further from the blade on the outfeed side. Never closer to the blade. Some say to have it as much as 1/32, or 1/16 out, but that just introduces inaccuracy.

The way to set up the saw is to get the blade perfectly parallel to the miter slots and no one will argue with that. Then set the fence parallel to the miter slot.

This isn't going to help your current situation, and I don't want to sound mean by saying this. I believe one of the greatest services one can do for a beginning woodworker is to discourage them from getting a jobsite saw. The reason they exist is for the contractor that needs a portable saw that is easily transported to a jobsite. They are inferior to even a basic contractor saw in almost every way. They can be made to do good work, but it is just way easier to use a competent saw to learn the craft on. Good luck.

[johnny means]

I've got a Rigid jobsite saw. It's sits in my yard under s table year after year. It gets snowed on, rained on, and stays covered in leaves and dirt. Yet. Every time it needs to come out, it gives me accurate cuts. The fence is what it is, a jobsite saw fence, but it locks at both ends and stays put. There's no reason not to be expect repeatability from this saw, even if the fence is a bit. I think is more likely that the OP is spinning the process into the blade addy the end of the cut.

[Phil Mueller]

Taylor, I’m primarily a hand tool guy, but use a jobsite saw for rough dimensioning. Mine is a Dewalt. As others have said, take the time to align the blade to the fence. Jobsite saws aren’t the easiest to align. Took me about an hour or so, but the results are well worth it. I’ve gotten it to the point where there is very little jointing needed after the cut.

[Tom M King]

Might be time for a new blade too.

[Lee Schierer]

I considered that, but isn't is okay to skew the fence slightly? I was under the impression it can be advantageous in order to avoid kickback and isn't an issue because the leading edge of the blade is what cuts. Is this a misconception?

A little skew should be a few thousandths of an inch. You also need to check the blade alignment to the miter slots. If the blade is misaligned it will produce the type of cuts you describe. Anther caution is that contractor saw fences are notorious for not clamping down square repeatably and many only clamp at the front and they are not stiff enough to withstand the pressure created by a misaligned blade. If the front of your blade is farther away from the fence than the rear, the blade will tend to climb away from the fence into the wood as it cuts.

[Taylor Swedberg]

It seems like the fence stays put once it's clamped, but it doesn't clamp square on its own. I'm guessing I didn't align it well enough as others are saying.

I don't think flex or outfeed are the problem in this case. When I first noticed the issue I was just running an angled groove the length of some 14 inch scrap wood to make some quick card holders for my son.

[Taylor Swedberg]

Thanks Frank. I've definitely outgrown the saw quickly. Ill try the miter slot trick. So far I've just been measuring fence to blade in the front and back of the blade but it's difficult in the back due to the riving knife.

[Tom Trees]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJPNlJPC6Bw
Here's a quick demo of the pick a tooth method.