Putting together the Woodland Mills HM-130 Mill and Woodlander Trailer

[John TenEyck]

I placed a phone order with Woodland Mills this past Monday and on Tuesday I picked up my HM-130 mill and trailer crates from the Buffalo, NY distribution center. Picking it up saved me the shipping charges and since it's only 20 miles from my house it was an easy choice. The only way to pick it up at the distribution center is by placing your order by phone. Online purchases don't have that option. The sales folks I talked with at Woodland Mills were very helpful and knowledgeable.

The two crates just fit on my trailer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/odsziv9eu8A3ThZMsK77RCBS35-ZMS3gbJ4mr8vu3M3XofKCvEk1ka8VpWMOQpQizaqciBlYw5zPW Sf1fLoH0QWT79Fa0QBuJ1lKDspSACvl2RnqmR4Os2DiXupNwKc Rthper_9EEcCRzDLAc0nHtFMRdypQ7upo8vIPX6JOU32vxH_AB EQS4ptrjrQz9N62MYJxIZUhyq6oojx5Y9bfrCqdtsMxM_8JOR5 OEoZBJw2BGpDmWu7fLZhKvEvoe68LxiwDK9xuDJW3rtpEBzKsH oahInWI1BrI4k2AeOsqWYOIMX2hE0OwLCygUdyBSM42ys2zjmV OWcGFmuvUI_RVfdvEDraTKKXbuDJxU1Pf8qqIMS8XkYhyRGU9I iVd68YFviPZMZ6vjIKRyAW5PnVHmWuw5HXKgevxq8EMRsOdjnN qdJAdGzIC62GkDBhHS3GE5eKgc8SVvhi_GQ9SYWHwdvgWLW59D-PV8fI_dfZili4YSVcIqt2Q27sJYCp9pPuXzvEuwVXzDrd7ZFnC dMP6ltuzuX_JiQlRpDEugcHSUPdWPee-aBN3TNcux1cBTnpD0CDHuPvVS3Vo_faDv8F5fqIzl-SZHTyFZF7Zw1E98lSNwSKYOOPPd4zBfMryplSVwLRfQVcV9Fc6 kWJmfil61b6SpwitF3dNWim2f22W5g21tqU5m-zJ9bYtsuiJtjGyaecBNHAyd-b4yks6vwpnEkVWGw=w1006-h566-no

After unpacking everything else from the sawmill package, the preassembled sawhead is left in the crate.

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Following Woodland Mills very well written assembly directions I lowered the sawhead down onto some 6 x8" high wood beams covered with cardboard. It wasn't hard to do alone.

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After removing the pallet and crate, I continued on with the directions. Let me stop here just a moment to say there are a lot of nuts and bolts that have to be installed to assemble the sawheard and carriage. To make it a little easier Woodland packs the nuts/bolts in clearly labelled bags. Also, each step of the assembly process starts with a chart of exactly how many of each type of fastener is required for that step and includes drawings of where they go, supplemented with a written description to clarify critical steps.

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If you think this is a lot of fasteners, wait until you see the trailer package!

With the pallet removed you slide in the front posts, bolt on the lower carriage assemblies, and then stand up the sawhead. I did this alone, too, and it did not require superhuman strength. Had it, I wouldn't have been able to do it.

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Next you add the rear posts, top crosshead, dashboard, left mechanism, etc., just following the directions one chapter at a time.

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It took maybe 6 hours to put it all together. Since I bought the trailer package you assemble the track components as part of that build. Here are most of the fasteners needed to assemble the trailer:

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Literally hundreds of parts, but again very clearly labelled in separate bags which helps a lot. There are a lot more parts in the trailer package, and some of them are pretty heavy. It's by far the more difficult and time consuming build, but still not hard if you are patient, and have no trouble stooping down or working on your knees. If you do, get someone else to assemble it for you, or buy another brand that sells a preassembled trailer.

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To build the trailer you start by assembling the basic track components included with the sawmill except you use different fasteners.

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With that done you set this assembly on top of the shipping crate it came in, and then start bolting on the trailer side rails and reinforcing gussets. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gc96jokoMdoeSzOUIUcZc8gR1CBxofkQSvAeC2TnAmRsiHfXUp N_Sk8qDPtM4acx_KcxeIG_7o-nenVAhM0oqO0eWWF2_fGAlBKWdTPqITqU0hhEDVvWXf2yPQo1T bo2Lec_5SG-576chAcaLv6RC9hMDaNSRnKbBSVUELcl7zuREJc594Uzaxt0YR HXfWfI4OVr0KL4o-K_s5BePkxjTesHoaRmmzOZwTYrUBHs0DjHlbUC44wzzRRNxtyO e50NEVKsDn7ovs6aR2TfBioDdHW5Kxt1wXND0BFLkhg0vfPzyP Wzs4mYznOWFEXtMPh86Qn30fiQJgxzSHCfKD8OZUNHrLRLl7Hg xweBdOmlhp7tvfvoi7svEcUO4nxGa-vmL1uuBWIAx1o5pt6LcsJIWrMJVFwbyowSouxkD5ocFTtw9kVO sH5O2GSAxGtCMRlab359X9Xo6WE2SkUk42Dd4nDsWY-S1Kkb_SgjdkoBGsOgbVsAJuG8_9MUfextjq1kYLX4Y_2O5L2HY AoomO6TsgzfSOvTTH8Mlak9vr6Az9GNJJ25GzMSc6-j0wZ7jp0O9gkDnKKX1pB51b0Ot3GdWg_h7iLn5Qz-4EyjnaDZgAjaV0OUQBOdQPYtydqlgso4JwYBw2jLkNOnBwyGx1 XjrOpDnH014CeIT8E6y232wXL-ttAa2WCwz2tUFMLgPKKoe8UxZpy0XaSHRO5-mM5ynXGbCw=w1006-h566-no

Every bolt size has a specified torque in the Woodland manual. I followed them exactly using a torqued wrench. This was the most time consuming part of the build. With the side rails completed you use the jacks that came with the trailer to jack up the assembly so that some of the lower crossrails and jack mounts can be installed.

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Then you lower the whole thing back down onto the shipping crate, install the jacks on their mounts, and raise the trailer up enough to pull out the packing crate.

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Then the axles, tongue, log clamps. and wiring harness and lights are installed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wtNIfPTCLivyJXTY3RMxwS07W4l5NQHUClXsQowHhG-MyUy7FCoXQzGR8HttgadQJ9qBzLs6l9WEIm-3cmdDqcSXLUB81S9RNT4TI783mzylAYfeoab5D42UxBNGealov EajLc37D-kEn9P8BtNOWh3nCghf7qk2X595hTD02tnovuA7JISejrjVvF4b Vq89QwHX6oly_TjJSEeyaO2bF2QLKRVKjtKLHX7i1xYwBWWZZP W4ITUbQSaK86I8RBloHBji111o97Jfb93Z2kzDJtyOsrb4VRIX fLGwko_VcYQOfy7N85ek1Qggqgerjuif9yPjd2GUXOswQUgmwp-LiUwFQ5AWp0bA7gS0zKNitT6VNwg29s-aSLl3kIoCjobqFArOf588bfqDFVHGe5UIwCJ8S8VTyf9DM1BVH VR_6GgqliQ5jU3G2PIYbTf4uIvRXfP6dKc1ajwN-7QgddksG-LJqrrKt7CX52G9UmIzOmde4pzIbR3nwk2eahqpaYgIBDOmfpzU zteT41U28kKQ1RP_wskhFO9LsNHl6r7YtW6RK1WikOxQ817c0O 6PniAEwlDym64Z1xRYmutuIJkMjH3v5vah0X-x_zj_mz890_n8gYC2iPyao98xvveK9zmAO-601aKiUf6tddfJPr1R1kfraL79frnqCdQ0gIZRZo9kSoi5Rgt2 oLXiC1rObWrgh956PQQeZz9h1oaFZJTqyrN50g=w1006-h566-no

The tongue and axels are fairly heavy. Two people would make installing them much easier, but I made due by using a couple of hand clamps to hold those parts in place while I installed the nuts/bolts.

Finally, the wheels and fenders are installed and it's done.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RpqOcsDXEzWuQc9Q_cfYqASsuU_dnsnUqltZ5YPboeg0NfpAG2 yeeFVJvIvaCjoAvoMbd8UfawUo6Uf7ujlTefD9452FRhgzx_gG MdA-FDvGrA7F0Rjh4kq5uIGTXYFGOHiS1yqZfN-xCFbhYT0JeTbz9DTbf1GBX7nswzepd4kgdCDwUkKcG0gaITqmc J15C3KLfkYhXTeXED8qsztm4gfyMhCpry3lktdBk8BvGpLUsDt pg6gKPzfk4ONuqPPb_WI3Z763M2tEDW26l-F9JhlgWGbnJsx4-V2dNXvyCG_JP9vYAKzX61NHgjn-GeUmN7zxJHU069TRpfLW46p7d6zOvvBM_nD88ghZMfjTmAJyz9 qQnh0COyJhRHUwLxk6SbOEYWNrFXSq4I9NWlMDDAep2QGek1XF bOW-H-uls_4oohiLovuDg1soak4pI1LqMvQV6iksbSQs2pKoWih3_fyo sfrnehmTZoMZKWPo6nn9L1-GraSQhPTzS0fLpSbqYYT81M1XfIKh8pVKGMoqvoPxCUBXMeOmh XAAj90POjpJ9yXdsR2yvP7qCcKBzhdgQfG0j_z-wGrBHvqboCckXuNczMtQXa56DERWKyLE3dwCDot9Hs0w6EO5rC XMFYQddKJ2nWBMpaCKnNfzpfYq23i0vPEQ7r4unU9bK8Mp4zUO _3nr65IyChEFfcj9gJGJZiRvQqo-d0WlKpcsc7lfVaVnSw=w1006-h566-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eH4do1awsx0wrAJN4IB1SG7HocEqEKZ7u_Ueg1cF1VszussyWL RyeqQgQrm1jhqjFLL7-ouCKAZHo1eiSKa891XOpOwPY9f33WD-ZvBLa3mwOSdKx8eRIqOfl81bNMh1-3VoodxaiF6LXlnuiiChkriSfIgG3c65S2IiWomo4J-kQwQDS2MEDip1c7sJ0ZKK672wpLghS3pk_0weSwhMJk9KzUTw-ThaBxmT3wjYDk4C1M3UkskKEK_k4qcD_lIZsyAyqyyy_u2ZQP3 33tAGcNQHsGLoC5nwL2P5aEAcArGSGuhBQWvMdjYRS5RuLrOza TUn4WICzSe8u4LEpo055JPg0OQgicKipa1CBt1kMZYuQ3XcITi 1Xp4OTOUdFxYd9N4GnIT0auHctUqaX2DhzIXDk7gCdzLQAdVCo hdeyMaMVF9e4WGOEk-6wwQNQp5OOI-PpcGIMAPQPwGnebZfsDx9Ue38bm5igY_DHIKGBJW3BDja9CEEn ou99CDP4fxrbut9IlVLVz3IE1VyrGdNKZ8bwZx6HQjKgMab2TD 65dDxpTlQ1U2dAocrydL71FDlOempllsO4CKRJJr1HUIaQVRQG RL1Dsp3OZiuvOukqW4xSf7nLIjnM-1Jua8CRdgzydF1Yq3L4TCU6z26qINTTaVZwcJ06NHrp8ToJUKX RKNd5R0ck25lnxkUdK9fyiDY3Egs2RGb8dHWtiAHQIr82wqpgA =w1006-h566-no

I didn't track exactly how much time it took to put together, but I think it was around 12 hours, over 3 days.

With only a couple of minor exceptions, Woodland Mill's directions are very well written, and by people who have probably assembled the product.

Now I have to build a gantry crane to lift the sawhead and carriage up high enough to back the trailer under it. Hopefully, the marriage will be complete in the next couple of days so stay tuned.

John

[Jim Andrew]

Your odyssey makes me glad I bought my mill used. They seller gave me a lesson using it to saw, then I hooked it behind the truck and drove away.

[John TenEyck]

Your odyssey makes me glad I bought my mill used. They seller gave me a lesson using it to saw, then I hooked it behind the truck and drove away.

My preference always is to buy used, but
I looked for 6 months and never found a used mill in the size/price range I wanted. I didn't want to wait any longer so after lots of research I chose the Woodland Mills equipment knowing full well there would be a lot of work required to put it together. But I was impressed with Woodland's design, customers who reported excellent customer service both during and after purchase, and attractive pricing. Over $2.5K lower than comparable competitor's equipment, 15 - 20 hours of my time seemed like a fair trade.

John

[david privett]

I added a tongue jack to my mill it was kinda a pain using the leveling jacks .

[John TenEyck]

I added a tongue jack to my mill it was kinda a pain using the leveling jacks .

I was thinking the same thing David. Thanks.

John

[John TenEyck]

Yesterday I built a gantry crane from some wood I had on hand. Calculations showed the two 2 x 10 white oak boards at the top would support more than 2000 lbs so I felt safe lifting the 700 lb mill head with it. I mounted my 2 ton chainfall at the top over a 1" black iron pipe.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3D99UXyPZekzOsMDQFco0d1kx3dymqqfaxGiexWUqhfTdPdZxC iSB5cygxjgsIOa1ph8WTnZ4Z3EAngHKIRX4OpkKnQcBkes0XgE cFeo8CPChvqytG1xjgB9io2-GFfETCA-0d0J4sF0FK3EOB7MDa4-aGszTayVV5qAVsjoJuiBr_sy4cI9XhKZPQbBSR84t1y7r-FZ2twi3400l7Na9VZrD19rB8zOWarMhGYbGMo-lSIBXGKUTNs1uhaTWj-2yWQHjHBsI0DR7aIwmdZX-1zTzqB2Dxpf5N0qzFM5p6qw6ZKublLC5EJ7l3QSA2XDcPFSgpz 3buLEMdR4QWj4UNVSA7sDaiVCroW_NViYhKpUHYUvQd5GKBsiK GTtCUJK_hPQDg533J-EZOgoIMmtKsIq5XPicJn3wfv_hUNpF8SFiWaW4xHD1vQf1oXkZ eSAiIAJ7Kc23EfDn6aRN2j1kQiv8sHMd69VY-Olu1P914ltbKsImOB1eTyN2AZiHlKyc7k5B85_EHCs659BM6zs MhnYaV2C2iyBVEg6DwOf6P0lcNO53-uDwaR0bTLhw09cr-mlasUr470lbOaL7EcMss-Yady9QDsU8yw8S1rn16LkW204wJTNc-FwmQQgTs1WUoVyqQQJdw2ovGdr2w-ldnEhzyDHHEPdcl4Vq8gmDTocdUDkDnJHb_KEItloAn-MUzOCld6xaJLWhFYGKCF6JG-LLw=w1006-h566-no

It proved to be very solid with nary a creak when I lift the mill. With the mill hoisted my neighbor backed the trailer underneath while I installed the locking brackets on the rollers.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TwFiW_rz1H4gZhMs9SGiyp1_GoARXLTFAvmZGIAWFuJEjXUH0A 6UhxGg9t606hdgJJYyZ2zKqR1p4ox_Iozl2bKrWsYjgKOnVHh1 pECcx7xjkjjKz1tirnESVvghOsvrPYO7u4mpLRNY4UbB7jv0zI AFeOEPF7dgAOr7ZVd3KkYrwtSwqaDT1E7utPD_HuWkC7_MCcQF MhRbnTE8pqx0roEg2RvhZTMUeAhepzaGH_RpMGh00Wq3Cuc2Gg BnfB_pUsM9_EqnqR8GaZmLOR4VSMgSU98jtbbaABWfSNzqlkP7 71DxtBydbbu6SbzMdXUfp0oqnNBkLC4sDrVT1q7CJI7fv0FWfX oQWsuvCnl3Nx_MqG0NMZdSebEuNaozem1ypcqmZJtT4x5z_KAo KiwDDgnSXOKlfK6XdQkGRNbg7c4cNveOWNVeWNRJPxJqgqj0HR yL9ur46092Ef-AXPPihSy8Sp04zoAMc4LgOKA479Xrs6b63VA9YuKJAzeNYTH2b FyMV7ej4MjvOF2pfRJh5wSltHWWlfj3qBG48aW1qCwSz2W1x45 NzH_oHeeQDy_L2Q837qEozCFe433oYqoxeKqEz2nFsibMQsoE2 LMTN1TyVFIV9GpYBcU21tRhBykllkWvHGqEW9MD2NnFuFHP7Wx 9UL1lRlWh5Vtxmsof1bhxxQ6OLb4wwk3aYzbD1MQPnk7SttyBW 2s6TJ6FLIfBxtVl5w=w1006-h566-no

With that done, we lowered the mill onto the rails, only to see that the rollers didn't engage on both sides. So we hoisted the mill back up and I removed a washer from behind both rollers on one side to match the rail width and we tried it again. Perfect.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zLwgGLkkH9PDo_T2oZ35NJRl8IwdaU5oOl5rda6hMj0nnA1jA8 OOxoh_IMqpNNtHUbJC0nZURKpxQGBmedDXIE7m2yd3fzwY1Rw2 2cntz6ISL1It62rqVQqOKrgH0JmjTxHdie3-mQsllpQonDqTAre9BasW68btGWXWqozoeQL7iFv7pLiKE85O35 9wC_oG3vEBAG1-ZL5HR-lkwDnFWYQs-etykp5_cka1dXmfadqKC6BAaktJSyumD2xwnibdpCKQkKIIxOK sH0G9--2WDQEV_huEug-fmONxw2ukC3FeQBdcPJQoy7DFRYKgBNjNKrQ00O6b4B1VNBrZE RQHM_jToum-huG-C1E5UyZ5BOKKsONxv1GnFU_7p7TlYeckNWgAMIoyhiO1Paea2D obz2J-q_Q4RHoND5alGxm4abAhfNtBXufUxH-xdvBQbE8JEFaBA8P3vUxVfckM5MVrZb6XUNKjW33v94T_aZqF_ c8LANewSLizzxSIoXBNLHH_wuNuj5-NVKWc64Q7P0pse9wPikqFQ9syNQI4K6XlGVdjVJtK95qY7PrnY uGbXnMbVYYpY1qLAHgH8U9bLDF4kZ0Ye4uB7OxGm6bnvv9cAeS ITLblN___SaeMLuUxPjYrC_5vfHy-sAVBrwivoII9iT3FdvrMRokPLfyIfxn-T_UPJLKFjzeetmfReatnazTzicQsB_TwEIX8r1GXFYf_vmBnfg =w1006-h566-no

Today I leveled the trailer, tightened all the bolts on the sawhead and then finished installing the remaining components. Oil and gas in the engine, water in the lube tank, and then I brought the blade up to tension and adjusted the tracking on the driven wheel so that it ran per the manual (back of the blade even with the back of the wheel) when I rotated the wheels by hand. After looking over everything three more times I turned on the key and pulled the starter rope. The engine started on the first pull; always a good omen. But nothing happened when I engaged the throttle handle. The directions are a little light on how it needs to be adjusted, but after fooling with it for a few minutes I got it sorted out and then it worked just fine. The blade came up to speed and everything seemed to run smoothly.

I think I'm ready to give it go in a log. A couple of friends are coming over tomorrow afternoon and we'll make a little sawdust. Stay tuned.

John

[david privett]

while you are test cutting make yourself some weight distributing pads(I made 2x6x18 outta wood) to go under your leveling jacks, when the ground is soft it will help keep thing level when weight is added to the mill(logs).

[John TenEyck]

Today was the day to try out the mill. I moved the mill out to my driveway, near where I had some logs staged. It took maybe 30 minutes to level and get it ready to mill. I brought one of the logs around with my log arch and lowered it onto a couple of 2 x 4's so that I could easily pass the hook of the winch cable under it. I highly recommend the winch and ramp package Woodland sells if you don't have a tractor with forks, etc. to get logs up onto the mill. For true mobile use, the winch and ramps are a must IMO. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x6H9Huq_-SCJCsnrNoJ5JpSI5_X9gA6CfpywV9ippESdHH3Oi2liKkQQemV-O8FWOHOoqAblzoY5WSi403EkuOHwbLzT6Ytc8BzieCKlSBLP4I 6IBNOT2LdLdE8rzi-D3gCKaW4iKKf4Qlj9TgUTQs42PhXQmA57JBk3jNhZ3otqElhD6 YG_jaD7WEbJlLQ2CUFk7dAlrXkehZGntyFVAOLHxa7nWwCY8vL lycAPGeFyu0NjiOqZljPeXC-UVduaP_BScGEtHXGi5mafcc8-64dsh31_yluwWpuj-WLtLRBbUgpHrGfKBJtqQUM42DI2mgmEH4BpBmAciYOszL7w1DL CoqJCcFYNg7iM_xgA7b0L7DN-HOiU0s3aNBfcChcRk5MFugtUSZvdSsiaS7sy6l7AlDDvo_s9b-GKDlkwT0EilyFpQbdhcG-aeomYjnp9UDikiak0RBI78oq8XlK9nBeip6YYzaO5xGPOrY0Ep UrKamEe8bGzHqaVmQrZFW4ie81t6ptAR9jUvkNB_xRSBlPJI_M n-1i-zrNWYNZ3KhZm5cihiSALSzzltUuW2QSpd6XXJ15VXPDG5ditAN 4Lsm_84WdDKasRzd2PnX5ylqpafuL66y2DB7KV62xL_pj3Qx8O guPcTHUsmlGNypeSIEECrHwNdy-_N7f_CUGiTotyEWZVpt2uu4IqpuGbdIfBQD-EWjKTxnODWkrMCV8CC6jXA=w1006-h566-no

Parbuckling the log up onto the mill is an easy one man operation. A power winch would be nicer and could easily be substituted, but the manual winch works just fine and is not hard to turn.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vq-yUvzLVArxGRb8ZOVN2dVaKYUUtY48h0biw1FKRbEufstr-Y22NRrVHQp5qcpCJCoTv2Fsb-1H2VgGkwLOHt-_o6-8utXMPSEs0O8pF8Gv2qWkLcCljgl5ZK7fnLOmi0FcUbCnmMvTQ td0w23f6hjgS7n-6KfWy8RC0-RwOFtxirDZGNJ3Ml8_FVKA5tlkyj7fDp7pU2bYt_lwsQ5rKYz0 Y822gOfreg9maQh-ENhlXilU1I7bIYsUZdI2K_GFsUxq_DoAQ1sBqrQ_2NtcjflFOH Vrn497BjJZ7jK_4DI07I-lzzH0lCzka6Q9XkuMYv_6UQmDe-2noStgTKrPZUxTjvlLSat21lonNDfJCZ0lqoguESBjIM_Q_hHD bjwT3BISjhKqNkHS4zxaUxZBXoXMq2UvD4lfvxD3AMG0_cDdAe XW3upNRJ-HKR6L5x7SymjBP0a1XH3Sr65Zp9XYA60Lw7OGe2q7bPxWsmUvN tzvqCYCFMY1kDA8LpMkU0oObVt20adCXmtE5bYOZ8EMiIdh5rZ xM7-CVtyuxlRX2UnI2kGbyoPcf19QIHYMSj2-uUT6LdLpZkFOP1rJrWvEFCqZ5zLKuNGiYTFyqwdGttdL92a4SK 7CshlLwS5OIXa1b0vVmvCOXmDDGGbK29Jf-tQY7_0wpsJl4WQFXv_LGy1O7r8VhS6KkINTJu30l8WymRCnBGN ZxHhWyhXfhVDrI4UTSQ=w1006-h566-no

OK, I filled up the gas tank, topped off the water tank, and torqued the blade up to the spec'd 25 ft-lbs. (Why did the decide lbs-ft is better? Sounds backwards to me.) I checked everything twice, started the engine and took off the top 3" or so, where I guessed the sapwood/heartwood interface was. Wow, that was easy. I pulled off that cut and rolled the log 90 degrees with the peavey. This log was about 22 - 24" diameter x 8.5' long and I had no trouble doing that alone. The SS bunk covers make it easier to roll the log/cant, just as Woodland claims. I repeated the process, etc.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PF3JyCiBeM3At7fgaKOyb9QKNp57jkkvOWMtqLwlo-UF6pPgD9NVu4A06DrarwiPIYHOPrMh0Z40jAk_WNkujEBXr7Cc nnMzWhZnR8yGf62Q1U16IOplpih8IDZ0YXP0DYn4zKba5GsZBW iLs3TmuViiGxKomLXaUaD3PR8s-0OSRkDggQ9GWB5Tqwz24VL9kdxmj4eZ-KSsXGOg6QzBro0xlPCosKa7EDuf_nu4qQjkklWmUIUcrLe3Awd psBPLXuBErFXtRyXImlOrEB_18NBqMp6VPDcSlFIAdVjT2RdFC N3nxpMJPqNny28c8kVHEoGrx1ibbvO-8PPx_SK5QXV4AI8RZTNTGiERqvadx1gkWeYtWg4uhHseNV4jHB 61fggi72Jhra5GpwxwIM-JT71sQu9g8BZ4BTq2zqoxiQODbTi_BZXK-_SsrKFYsntZF_pc2s-MDJFF3G6f6UMab-QxqnL9LKKkVGcD55dSVNRmpxoy2qE6rN-hsCaapv9vJ76U3K9jwkuQIKoB-dqQMiI0ougAZ_lOvDwYumZtA5uo64Aoo39YyrKDwI-7UBc7OcF14cuk1yDXVazlidPfPoGZdTOLZp_MPwKyIJSyKLX7H 2TStmMt42VLh28_QssQRk9BAg02t8CeQdN0JCfF3ZhR3fN_t63 Gjy6bx717E4gjicr89qPMVBGcm7eWYlr8ANOQAulvDVaBmIgmq HkyaeYxEw=w1006-h566-no


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yr0uDifJD-loxkYyHB9e2YTwJvj2GSfLzwNgMzzia-pGhWWWDgDvrSvgZy6G7rJkXn16-VCnwcoT5nj3mYPhCjSukYwlGw-kWqCk6Q2lY23TFayByuk4sh-JLlYixQQhLrnspk3zwqlKtHm9ky_yOghjlcq6VZ-YbOIKXJ1V2f22YaNiUemxeBQIiZoDc5OiamEcEFJ7h4LjAQexE GC8HMqG4UpzelekPPT2h3AldPZRcFE765gNvFp_hgmvs48ozNC OYITRktZEcGoV3eOOFBBhrEEkXr2wQVLwMwaO7Tlg1TDLlUQI8 eTy2oQOqAi6KqGbll1DzryVfsg8z-LHq4sZ0gXBELpMMmfYO-ermownlf6vCEm1uInL7P0hWDVRdTSAbkgFATaSkyVE3y7w0fvY dQer30E9SvWljQQHg-gP9SPbfd-Sjd6clT_W_B7HfAC1dk18hPAZMTpUhPxsvzlsqcp82InbeKZ65 AKaVh2qWWw0RgZ0hf94GgBO8f4ebnaRWqhT_zSoiHmyZ6LQBH-FpAje81kRF2yO_pEJwNkEQ4eVGGxot6dZromGWyyu2PpN53FW_ altabtEreh54SiWJNjrvgSTQgqMO06AE5ws0BsmDS3TNTTpN3r YcFynXklZGLDa-iG4KZljzd6Wk7R0wYgdXwuJMqHWo0_MNEadXWofDVrXFfFbB6x Grlf1LHACKSTkLzjntQkgsk17BTjXnA=w1006-h566-no

This cant is about 12.5" wide. I timed some cuts just for fun. W/o forcing the blade it timed out at 30 seconds +- 1 or 2. My two woodworking friends came to help and each took turns at running the mill. Of course, none of us has any milling experience beyond my chainsaw mill so the ease with which this thing operates is mind blowing. My neighbor came home as the second log was just getting to the cant stage and insisted on timing some more cuts. 30 seconds. And then he said what all of had said at some point during the afternoon. "Why did you wait so long to buy this?" We had a good laugh.

We made 19 boards for about 150 bf from the two logs.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uHHX1D5Xvdcpf82h9SoT0UbN_nb2LazAiqU2_UXNy7TZRyudEE yp5CuVdpiHqR5uxFd1bW97JBtTlf0MfnPiGkRM6LHIe2S43e00 HvtjbRUD8sfQVMwopc5aVNp1A7I8nxWYDAULE78YpO2kN-KHN_pgFYCWCK4EoZ3-sG1vo5MwWS4EN08jPC0y-iwPxcfV08FiO8toRWucv2ohip7bofVqR8ClkKsKQbZmV2FcZtV Hrl1TyU43AEdSMY_T990L8MafxnkfCthk2tO4XDvJmET965-TdxnJ4f7Oume5tWSOEr4cGtV3-fdE_MTgL9aU31mo3i4wLUSS31Lzgl1huVrqMKplS2-9IqQWi41akPu-FynWkCE6YZHHswlpuQ-GqXoCqjsFWNialTU1GKyP2_DY2L1BFilBKmUUs-y64QbvqpTavhl-FWn_qPttnHUEYrCUjaERuRXen3yw8KLh__ASAaMEQIfuGJwIhq egYXDxZG0i7TTEEeHfIH1OJURjGLcjkyLaiNg-sSAzymOn8W0hiMLBQOIfTq61WmO9aV6qMxmvWmBm0lXoIT0hDl qBKA4MyoO0FTq2EIPJJMqysshBm0J4jQzxvjdK31c55rFIOoNo kZ2tfGOSvV5tfweEAIovTAOHT1Dr_7SblX5lk5PhQjPOq9puFN iug-111rYSOHHQhXnKymQkDF7p6Zpg1g4N4gW9z502s1VP78vMIw37 dg=w1006-h566-no

I'm very impressed with how easy the mill is to set up, how easy the ramps and winch system makes getting logs onto the mill, and how easily and smoothly it cuts. Cut quality is easily as good as the resaw bandsaw in my shop unless I'm using a high end carbide tipped blade. The only issue I had this afternoon was the blade stopped a couple of times during a cut, like it was slipping on the wheels or the clutch was slipping. I torqued the blade to 30 ft-lbs and it didn't happen again. Later, I lowered the blade tension and then retorqued it to the spec. of 25 ft-lbs and it never slipped again. I'm guessing there was some oil on the factory installed blade. I didn't clean it as Woodlander says you should so maybe that was it. I will clean new blades from now on.

Milling logs just got a whole lot easier!

John

[John K Jordan]

Excellent! Isn't it great to be the first person to see what's inside that log?!

I use cant hooks with 5' handles for turning but never tried a peavy. I've wondered what the point of the point is at the sawmill.

JKJ

[Tom M King]

You have me looking at mills now.

[John TenEyck]

Excellent! Isn't it great to be the first person to see what's inside that log?!

I use cant hooks with 5' handles for turning but never tried a peavy. I've wondered what the point of the point is at the sawmill.

JKJ

Oops. I used a cant hook, not a peavey. Sorry about that. But one with a 5' handle would be better and I may buy a Logrite one after the dust settles with my CFO.

Along these same lines, has anyone used the Norwood hand winch with the cant hook on the end to turn logs on the mill? I'm sure it takes longer than using a cant hook, but it looks like near zero effort and should make turning large logs easier when working alone.

And to your first question, yes, I enjoy seeing what's inside every log I put up on the mill. The first log yesterday was a bit of a disappointment compared to how it looked on the outside. Some good, clear wood in it, but lots of knots and "character", too. The second log, however, was mostly clear wood. Seeing quite a few clear walnut boards 12" x 8.5' long was a real joy.

So I know there is no absolute answer to this question, but I'll ask it anyway. How many SF or logs can you folks typically saw before the blade gets dull and needs to be swapped out? The two logs I sawed yesterday had some mud on the bottom, so I hosed them off really well to get rid of it before putting them on the mill. I'm sure, debarking would be even better, but that's not too easy w/o more equipment. Anyway, the blade still cuts fine and feels sharp and I would think I could cut at least 2 or 3 more logs before needing to change it. That would be something on the order of 400 square feet of cutting. Does that sound like the right ballpark?

John

[John TenEyck]

You have me looking at mills now.

Caution, that's how it started for me! Absolutely no regrets though.


John

[John K Jordan]

Oops. I used a cant hook, not a peavey. Sorry about that. But one with a 5' handle would be better...

So I know there is no absolute answer to this question, but I'll ask it anyway. How many SF or logs can you folks typically saw before the blade gets dull and needs to be swapped out? The two logs I sawed yesterday had some mud on the bottom, so I hosed them off really well to get rid of it before putting them on the mill. I'm sure, debarking would be even better, but that's not too easy w/o more equipment. Anyway, the blade still cuts fine and feels sharp and I would think I could cut at least 2 or 3 more logs before needing to change it. That would be something on the order of 400 square feet of cutting. Does that sound like the right ballpark?

John

Two cant hooks are so useful for when that unsuspecting friend drops in to "see" the mill!

Working by myself I've never had a problem rotating a cant by myself with the 5' cant hook, but the bigger logs are more of a problem, especially if they are long. (My saw will handle over 16' but I like to keep the logs to under 10-12'.) Besides the cant hooks, I also keep a long and stout steel pry bar handy. And a small sledge hammer in case I need to pound the hook on the cant hook into the bark for a better grip. Many times I've turned the wood by putting all my weight on the cant hook handle and bouncing a bit! Sometimes if the log is not exactly where Ii want it, I'll go around to the front and use the pry bar and wooden wedges to position it exactly where I want it.

I've never kept up with the blade life, I just keep plenty of extra on hand. Sometimes I get a lot of logs out of one blade. You can even cut a long time on a blade that's getting a little dull - just cut slower. Good tension, constant lube, and a clean blade helps. BTW, the worst logs I've cut were virginia pine - unlike hardwoods, the sap tended to build up on one side of the blade and cause friction and stress, and cause the cut to vary down the log. When I cut pine I keep a big steel screwdriver handy to scrape off the buildup - I do this just before a cut while the blade is running in the air, standing behind the saw. It sounds dangerous but I don't think it is. Just takes a few seconds

A huge variable is the amount of dirt on the bark from felling, skidding, rolling etc. If debarking is not an option and you have water nearby hosing or pressure washing the bark might help a lot. Oh, and cutting into a ceramic electric fence insulator is worse than cutting through a nail! I've cut through screwdrivers, 1/2" steel rods, and part way through a railroad spike. I do have metal detectors but don't always use them as I should.

If you haven't tried it yet, uncoiling and coiling the big blades is fun! For uncoiling, I toss the blade away from me into a grassy spot. For coiling, I hold the big loop against the ground with one foot and do the twisting with gloves and safety glasses! I haven't been injured yet. :)

Now you get to start dealing with the piles of scrap and mounds of sawdust! Sometimes I find people who will haul off the scrap wood for heating.

BTW, my "tool box" at the mill usually includes (what I can remember at the moment):
2 cant hooks
2 pry bars
chainsaw
pruning saw
small axe
small sledge hammer
sturdy chisel
big screwdriver
metal detector
measuring tape
straight edge
lumber crayon
safety goggles
hearing protectors
leather gloves
sun hat
can of gasoline

and something to kill the nest of carpenter ants you often find deep in logs. I sometimes just use a little gasoline.

JKJ

[John TenEyck]

Thanks John. Funny you should mention your tool box list. I was just thinking about what I would need in order to take the show on the road. It's a pretty long list and I can see needing to buy tool box to fill specifically with tools and accessories for mobile milling.

FWIW, ceramic insulators are bad on chainsaw chains, too. And their anchor bolts. Bandsaw blades are comparatively cheap. A 12' band for my mill costs less than $25. For the 42" bar on my chainsaw mill a ripping chain costs around $45. You can sharpen the chains more times than you can a bandsaw blade, but they don't cut as many square feet before needing to be sharpened. In any case, I think my chainsaw milling days are over unless someone wants live edge slabs.

I put in a woodstove after I started milling with my chainsaw mill, so I'm used to dealing with the offcuts and sawdust. You have no idea how much sawdust a chainsaw mill can make; easily 4 times that of the bandsaw. My wife uses it in her chipper/shredder recipe for making mulch that we use around our landscaping. Same with the chips and sawdust from my woodshop. We haven't bought mulch in over 10 years and the inventory pile out back never seems to go to zero. Boy how the little critters take to it for Winter quarters. I'd love to put in a glass wall with a camera to see what's going on in there.

John

[Sonny Kemp]

Thanks a lot John !!!!!! I had my mind nearly made up till you started all this.Lol Just kidding . I think you've convinced me this is the way to go.Its very little more money than the 2 I was considering and a lot more machine. I most likely will get the 130 without the trailer. Thank you much for the pictures and insight.

[John K Jordan]

...You have no idea how much sawdust a chainsaw mill can make; easily 4 times that of the bandsaw. ...

I've never used a chainsaw mill but, zounds, I've never thought about it but can imagine the piles of chips! My mill is stationary so if I don't shovel often enough I'm walking on six inches of sawdust.

Before I bought the Woodmizer I considered several chainsaw options but what convinced me to spring for the bandmill was the narrow kerf.

JKJ

[John TenEyck]

Thanks a lot John !!!!!! I had my mind nearly made up till you started all this.Lol Just kidding . I think you've convinced me this is the way to go.Its very little more money than the 2 I was considering and a lot more machine. I most likely will get the 130 without the trailer. Thank you much for the pictures and insight.

The HM-130 ground unit offers a lot of capability for the money; I'm sure you will be pleased. And it's easy to assemble. I think it took well less than 8 hours with no surprises.

John

[Jon Steffen]

I placed a phone order with Woodland Mills this past Monday and on Tuesday I picked up my HM-130 mill and trailer crates from the Buffalo, NY distribution center. Picking it up saved me the shipping charges and since it's only 20 miles from my house it was an easy choice. The only way to pick it up at the distribution center is by placing your order by phone. Online purchases don't have that option. The sales folks I talked with at Woodland Mills were very helpful and knowledgeable.

The two crates just fit on my trailer.
John
John, thanks for sharing. That looks like great fun right there!

[Martin Moses]

Got a HM 130 should be showing up tomorrow! Super excited!

[John TenEyck]

Got a HM 130 should be showing up tomorrow! Super excited!

Isn't it the HM-130Max now? That unit has a 30" cut limit. I sure wish they had come out with that upgrade last year. My only complaint on the HM-130 is the 22" cut limit. It makes it nearly impossible to handle a log greater than about 26" diameter, despite WM's claim of 30". OK, my second complaint is the 7" max depth of cut limit, but that's a common problem with all units in this price range.

With logs less than 24" diameter the HM-130 is a great unit. You'll love it. Two important tips:

1) Check the belt tension before you run it, and after an hour or so. It stretches when new and will slip.

2) Even more important, make sure the rpm is in the 3600 rpm range. The directions are poor on how to set the throttle cable tension. If the rpm is too low the centrifugal clutch will wear out fast. I know.

John

[MATTHEW POWELL]

Trailer length....

I've ordered the same mill and its backordered but now I am wondering if I should have gotten the longer trailer. Seems the 10 1/2' length is a bit limiting and the 16' 10" trailer is a bit much to manipulate through a wood lot. I think that trailer is over 23' total length.

What are your thoughts on the trailer size that you have?

[John TenEyck]

Trailer length....

I've ordered the same mill and its backordered but now I am wondering if I should have gotten the longer trailer. Seems the 10 1/2' length is a bit limiting and the 16' 10" trailer is a bit much to manipulate through a wood lot. I think that trailer is over 23' total length.

What are your thoughts on the trailer size that you have?

Tough call. The theoretical max. length log on the shorter trailer is 10' 3", but unless you have a front end loader anything over 9-1/2 ft is really hard to get up the ramps and keep within the cut window. Smaller diameter logs can be slid fore or aft with a lever, but once you get to 24" that's nigh on impossible. So the longer version makes a lot of sense - until you think about moving it in close quarters. Hook that up behind a pickup and you're nearly as long as a semi.

I bought the shorter version because I make furniture. I don't need anything longer than 8 or 9'. I designed my wood shed and solar kiln for 10 ft long lumber, so I'm pretty much locked in. Of course no sooner did I advertise milling services than several people asked if I could mill 12' or 16'. But those are the exception; most people are fine with 10 ft max. You'll have to decide what best meets your needs based on what you want to build or the services you want to offer. The good news is, if you buy the shorter version you can always buy the extension kit to lengthen it should the need arise.

John

[MATTHEW POWELL]

Its a decision thats driving me nuts. I ordered a bed extension and the short trailer. The extension kit is for normal on the ground use and not for actually extending the trailer. I feel like with a couple more leveling jacks I can make an add on track section to mount over the trailer tongue. Possibly shortening the extension a bit to fit. Seems there are some saw stops to be in the way but hoping that can be worked around.

From your hands on experience with the trailer, what is your gut feeling on my idea?

[John TenEyck]

The tongue projects about 3' in front of the bed of the trailer. Adding a 6' section of bed without moving the tongue would only be possible if it folded or was removed or transport. I think you would need four additional leveling jacks to support it adequately. All in all, it looks difficult to me, but I'm interested to see what you come up with.

John

[MATTHEW POWELL]

My thoughts are either a folding design or just bolt it on with more jacks. It absolutely has to move in some way to transport. Its heavy but if it was hinged it would be pretty fast to deploy. Honestly I dont know why they dont offer that already. Hinge at the track and a 2" square tube mounted under it to handle the jacks . Unhook it from the vehicle and fold it down over the tongue and stabilize and level with jacks. When deployed, the hitch would be totally covered by the track

[John TenEyck]

I'm sure it can be done, but I imagine if Woodland Mills thought about it at all didn't think they could sell enough to justify the time it would take them to develop that option. If you come up with a hinged system that weighs less than 100 lbs or so I'm all ears.

John

[MATTHEW POWELL]

It could be a giant heavy mouse trap, but if you have a log loading winch already available it seems like it could easily serve dual purpose and lower down the extension

[John TenEyck]

It could be a giant heavy mouse trap, but if you have a log loading winch already available it seems like it could easily serve dual purpose and lower down the extension

As I was contemplating how you could fold the extension up/down, that idea came to mind. The problem is it only works to lower it onto the tongue and back up off the tongue. You still have to lift it off the trailer and lower it back down onto the trailer manually. I guess you could build a tall mast off the tongue to use the winch to lift/lower it onto the trailer, but that just complicates things further. FWIW the log loading winch doesn't pivot so you would have to reconfigure it to do so. And while the loads needed to move the extension should be OK, heavy loads to the side can easily deform the bunk the winch is mounted to. I know. Norwood's winch mounting system is a real step up over WM's. It's much more robust in how it mounts, can be left in place even when milling, and rotates to any angle. I bent the snot out of the WM's winch mast trying to roll 2000+ logs up onto the mill, so I built a more robust mounting system and now use a 3500 lb ATV winch off the battery. Much improved and easier to use. I use it for loading logs and rotating logs too heavy to handle with the cant hook once on the mill. It's not as slick as Norwood's but far better than the OE version. If you plan to roll heavy logs onto your mill be prepared to upgrade the factory winch system.

John

[Bruce Wrenn]

Just some off the cuff thoughts. Make the axle/spring assembly a removable unit. Build a tripod lift to elevate one end of mill to allow the assembly to be slid out, then lower mill to blocking resting upon the ground. Make ( I see you have a welder) your log arch wide enough to span mill, allowing for backing logs up over mill. When traveling, place mill in center of trailer, over axle, with a couple tension cables run over mill and to ends of trailer to prevent flexing. Just some ideas. You can take these ideas and a buck and get a senior coffee at Mickey D's, just be sure and have the buck. Shows what they are worth, doesn't it.

[John TenEyck]

Just some off the cuff thoughts. Make the axle/spring assembly a removable unit. Build a tripod lift to elevate one end of mill to allow the assembly to be slid out, then lower mill to blocking resting upon the ground. Make ( I see you have a welder) your log arch wide enough to span mill, allowing for backing logs up over mill. When traveling, place mill in center of trailer, over axle, with a couple tension cables run over mill and to ends of trailer to prevent flexing. Just some ideas. You can take these ideas and a buck and get a senior coffee at Mickey D's, just be sure and have the buck. Shows what they are worth, doesn't it.

Bruce, it's really not that hard to parbuckle logs up onto the trailer mounted mill. The winch assembly is small and I carry it in the back of my Subaru when pulling the trailer. If I had to bring a log arch with me in order to load logs I'd have to make another trip with another trailer to carry the arch and ATV to pull it. Doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to me unless you were setting up for a week or more of milling and had to transport logs from the outback to the mill. When I take my mill on the road the owner is responsible for getting the logs staged where the mill is going to sit so all I have to do is roll them to the ramps, steering them if required to get them lined up correctly. On flat level or gently downhill sloping ground it's easy even alone. Of course, the optimal arrangement is a landowner who owns a front end loader - and wants to help. Then we really get wood milled. They put the logs onto the mill and carry away the lumber.

John

[Monte Orchard]

I also have the HM130, bought it several years ago. It is not mobile, as I wanted to be able to cut 20' logs (much harder to find them straight in that length). Last year, I spent more time trying to keep the engine running than I did sawing, and finally decided that since it is not mobile, an electric motor was the right solution. $1000 or so later and quite a few hours puzzling over electric motor starters (that I was completely unfamiliar with), and it is up and running. Did my first cuts on a 20' x about 25" log yesterday. It went well, although there are design flaws in the machine so that it is not possible to center the log initially. I've got a plan to fix that. I will agree that Woodlands' customer service is awesome, but understandably were not really up on things when it came to the conversion. Now I've just got to figure out where the clog is in the lubrication system...

[John TenEyck]

Monte, WM has a Toe Board accessory that is used to center the log vertically on the mill deck. I have one and it works well on logs up to the 10 ft length limit of my mill, but there is no way it could handle one 20 ft long. You are going to want a much more robust device and I would think a hydraulic jack would be the right direction.

Funny you had trouble with the gasoline motor on your mill. The Kohler on mine has given me absolutely no trouble; starts easily, runs great, very frugal on fuel. I'm surprised Kohler didn't make it right for you.

John

[gary rosema]

You should have assembled the trailer first and build the mill on the trailer and i suppose you could ask some friends for a couple minutes of help !

[Scott Seymour]

Hi, I am interested in doing what you did and picking up at the warehouse instead of having it delivered. But with the costs of fuel I m not sure I can justify it. Where exactly is the warehouse in Buffalo ? It might make it worth it for me. Any help is appreciated.

[John TenEyck]

When I got my mill in 2019 I picked it up at the Speed Global Services Warehouse, 2321 Kenmore Ave., Buffalo, NY. I don't know if Woodland Mills still uses Global or not, however, so better check. The mill and trailer package I bought weighs about 1600 lbs so you'll need a trailer. The warehouse guys had no trouble loading the skids on my trailer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX6H-zUTVwWSJMcdlXYT2TL6sRc53vwPX_9sKbXOZZyTIWxS9QS8jRf ePwcCLIAGcVCUXJV9wVpjvigA48x8tziqVOfnweLb8zN-414TMYdceKhNkZSsz2rMfpkP3ZSAaVWfY1lsKLnU8TLLDVrfDn Tfw=w1470-h828-no?authuser=1

[cody michael]

How is the mill running? Are you happy with it? Just using it for your hobby use or trying to make money with it?

[John TenEyck]

The mill has been nearly trouble free. I have at least 200 hours run time on it now. I had to replace the centrifugal clutch at 50 hours because of my error, but WM'S covered it under warranty. The toeboard wore out, too, due to poor design and WM'S replaced that, too, with a new unit of better design. I've replaced the drive and idler belts a couple of times and a couple of guide bearings, but nothing else. The unit has always cut great and continues to. It's easy to operate alone, too. Oh yeah, the factory ramps to load logs onto the trailer are up to the task with logs weighing at least 2500 lbs, but the factory winch is not. I replaced the winch with a 3500 lb electric one and put it on a new post that I welded up.
I sell some lumber and slabs but it's still just a hobby. It's a great hobby mill, but I would want a larger mill with hydraulic loader and log turner if I wanted to make money with it. Mine has more than paid for itself, though, so I have no complaints.
John

[John TenEyck]

I don't think that would not be possible the way the millhead is assembled.
John

[cody michael]

The mill has been nearly trouble free. I have at least 200 hours run time on it now. I had to replace the centrifugal clutch at 50 hours because of my error, but WM'S covered it under warranty. The toeboard wore out, too, due to poor design and WM'S replaced that, too, with a new unit of better design. I've replaced the drive and idler belts a couple of times and a couple of guide bearings, but nothing else. The unit has always cut great and continues to. It's easy to operate alone, too. Oh yeah, the factory ramps to load logs onto the trailer are up to the task with logs weighing at least 2500 lbs, but the factory winch is not. I replaced the winch with a 3500 lb electric one and put it on a new post that I welded up.
I sell some lumber and slabs but it's still just a hobby. It's a great hobby mill, but I would want a larger mill with hydraulic loader and log turner if I wanted to make money with it. Mine has more than paid for itself, though, so I have no complaints.
John

Thanks, I am interested in getting one, kinda looking for the same thing, a tool that can pay for itself. I like the idea of electric winch!

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks, I am interested in getting one, kinda looking for the same thing, a tool that can pay for itself. I like the idea of electric winch!

I don’t know the seller or how the price compares, but I pass this property all the time headed up to our farm. He started with this mill about 1 year ago and has already upgraded to a woodmizer, as I can see it from the Highway as I pass. Just picked up on this for sale listing yesterday. Long ways from Michigan but might be worth it if the order wait is still long. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/839203660778717/

We ended up buying a Frontier OS23 for our use. Not as much capacity but fine for the trees we have. Decent quality and design. Was around the same price range as the Woodland Mills models but our wait was a lot less. Frontier is made by Norwood as their off shore line for cost savings.

Sharing the link above just in case it helps in some way. Good luck regardless of which mill you purchase.

[cody michael]

thanks, I am not in a hurry just kicking around ideas right now.

[John TenEyck]

Wow, I'm pretty sure he's asking for far more than the price of new. Wait times aren't that long anymore either. For $11k I'd be looking at the new Norwood mill, V36 or something like that.
John

[Greg Parrish]

Wow, I'm pretty sure he's asking for far more than the price of new. Wait times aren't that long anymore either. For $11k I'd be looking at the new Norwood mill, V36 or something like that.
John

Yes, it seemed high. Especially compared to our Frontier OS23. But for that money I'd just order a Norwood 27, 30 or 36 or a Woodmizer LT15 or LT15 Start and wait out the lead time. I just happened across that listing at the same time as seeing this thread and figured I would share.