Laser for Hobby use and stay under $2K budget

[Todd Heide]

Not sure how I should title it, but complete NEWB with laser cutting. What I am looking to do is get a cutter to cut out the parts for some airplanes that we are planning to build. A friend of mine wants to scratch build an 1/8th scale B-17, and is working on drawing up all the parts. He would like to have the parts laser cut. I also have at least 5 different large scale planes that I want to cut out as well. I would need a cutting area of about 24", though a couple parts exceed 24", so have been looking around at Chasers (Chinese Lasers) and came across a few with 28 x 20 cutting area, 60-80 watt CO2. One example is This one (https://www.toolots.com/jy-4060.html) which fits the budget. I had initially looked at Glowforge and was highly impressed until I learned it is all cloud based. I work with the cloud, I know how unstable it can be, and I also know that if the cloud ever goes BOOM, then I would have a very expensive paperweight! It also requires an internet connection, which where I live is spotty, so using it would be very time consuming as it sends what it sees to the cloud, where it gets it thing together, then transmit it to my PC, then back to the cloud to control the cutting. Yeah, not going to work, and expensive to boot. Looked at Dremel, did I mention expensive! WOOF, even more!

So, there are K40 lasers, $400, cool, well, 12 x 8 is no where big enough for what my plans are. There is a 16 x 16 one, 50w, for under $700. Doable, for some, but not everything I plan to cut. The one linked above is the most appropriate sized one, with the power needed to cut through at least 10MM aircraft plywood, which is the thickest we would be using. The majority of cuts will be in 1/8" balsa, with some parts being made of laminated balsa up to maybe 3/8". I will be converting a lot of it to metric since my plans are all done in metric, but materials are mostly sized SAE here.

OK, so to get to the main part of my post, the questions. I have not done CNC since 1988 back when I programmed Strippet turret punch presses where the program was punched out on fanfold paper tape and loaded into the machine via a light reader. The laser isn't really much different with X Y coordinates, and the power level and on/off for the tooling instead of the turret position and ram speed.

1. What I don't know, is there a Z axis on these with the table position? I see that the table is power adjusted on the model I linked, but is that just for positioning the material to the laser focal point?

2. The software.

2a. Importing, I have found and am testing out Inkscape. My plans are all in PDF format, so I can import them, and I guess, trace the parts, but that is as far as I got with it. I will need to figure out what to do with the trace, or how to trace it so that I can export the parts. EDIT: No question! LOL Other than Inkscape, any others that do what I want to do, import PDF and trace it.

2b. Exporting, once I have my parts, what software is used to "print" the parts out on the laser? It does not appear that the cutters I am looking at have any software, but instead have a USB input to the controller, and possible can load a file from a USB stick.

2c. Would prefer it to run on Linux. I have a Sherline CNC mill that runs on Linux, maybe can even use the software from it, but doubt it since it is for the mill. I haven't used it yet because the power supply that I got with the mill was the right voltage, wrong type, and AC does not function well with a DC based controller. Thankfully the power supply burned up and not the controller (Diodes are wonderful aren't they?). Would be good to have one machine to run both, less bench space used, and just needs the output software, the CAD work can be done on other machines I have.

3. The Cutter/engraver itself. Anything, and everything! I want to stay on budget, but if an upgrade can/should be done for the controller, then I can make it work. Is there a better controller than what comes on these, and will it work with the same output software?

4. Power output. I have read where the meters, well, they didn't meter well and the tubes burned out long before their time. What is the best method for controlling the output, and is it something that an upgrade will be needed?

5. Did I miss anything? Already have ideas for a chiller, and ventilation.

I have no problem with modifying, upgrading or anything like that, I am well versed in mechanical/electrical and enjoy it as another hobby. My main hobby are RC airplanes, and I have no intentions of making a business out of this, but if someone wants parts made, I would do it for them for a small fee for my time. I might mess around with engraving things, maybe for gifts and such, but the primary use is to cut out parts for our planes, as of last count there are at least 8 of them to cut, with hundreds of pieces each.

Do I test the waters with the $700 machine, what do I do when I need to cut larger pieces, as I don't think it has passthrough on it, if it did, then it would be good. Would 50W be enough for what I need to cut? So far everything points to the one that costs twice as much, is it worth it? Since it is via a company with a physical location, would that be a better choice to purchase from? If I go to Amazon, there are similar machines that cost more, but free shipping, so in the end, the cost is pretty much the same when shipping is added to the one above.

My other concern is the weight. I would like to have this in my workshop, which is in my basement, but getting 400 pounds downstairs will be rather difficult. I really do not want to have this in my garage where the temps vary too much and gets pretty dirty in there.

I know, lots to read here, hopefully those with the best answers didn't skip because TL;DR.

[John Lifer]

First, Do you have any Maker's spaces close to you?
A lot of them have co2 lasers of varying sizes from K40's to Epilogs. Some have free time available, some charge. Get your feet wet with one of these if possible.
$2k is tight budget. Chinese machines better than k40s are available for close to that, but you need some equipment, chiller exhaust fan and ducting. I use Coreldraw, early versions are fine, you can sometimes find them cheap.
PDFs import into Corel just fine and I use them a lot.
Linux.... Go for it. Must emulate Windows as most of the software is windows based. Inkscape is ok for free... you get what you pay for...
60 watt will cut most of what I think you want to do. Look for Rudia controller, Runs RDworks and is what most of them run.... Read, and research....

[Bill George]

If you did a Search you would have yours answer. This question is asked about 20 times a year.

[Todd Heide]

First, Do you have any Maker's spaces close to you?
A lot of them have co2 lasers of varying sizes from K40's to Epilogs. Some have free time available, some charge. Get your feet wet with one of these if possible.
$2k is tight budget. Chinese machines better than k40s are available for close to that, but you need some equipment, chiller exhaust fan and ducting. I use Coreldraw, early versions are fine, you can sometimes find them cheap.
PDFs import into Corel just fine and I use them a lot.
Linux.... Go for it. Must emulate Windows as most of the software is windows based. Inkscape is ok for free... you get what you pay for...
60 watt will cut most of what I think you want to do. Look for Rudia controller, Runs RDworks and is what most of them run.... Read, and research....


There is a makers space somewhat close, at least according to google, but their website fails with a DB error, so makes me wonder if they are still there. I'll follow up when I get time for that.

The ones I am considering is an 80W with a 28 x 20 bed, or an 80w with a 23 x 15 bed. I will dig deeper to find out the controller type used. thanks

I am still going around trying to find the right software. I would like to be able multifunction with it and use it with the Sherline mill too. Looking into Vectric at the moment, looks promising that it works with both, just a matter of using the correct version for my needs. I'll also look into the Coreldraw. Looks like some of the K40's come with a version of it.


As for the last poster, just trying to up your post count? It was so helpful that you mentioned the search function that I had ALREADY spent hours trying to find the information I am looking for. I may be a newb to laser cutting, but not to forums. thankyouverymuch.

Tell you what, find threads in regards to my questions and post them, that would be so much more helpful.

[Bill George]

Here you go Chief over 4 pages of a Search result > https://sawmillcreek.org/search.php?searchid=12165196 I tell you what I spent months on here searching and reading before even posting one question.

[Todd Heide]

When I was searching I came up with 30+ pages. Gave me a headache. Just trying to narrow down the software side of it. BTW, that link,


Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms. :confused:

I would much rather hear from peoples experiences on what is inexpensive and easy to use. I just want a hobby cutter to make parts for my planes. I tested out Inkscape, too much work for what I am looking to do. I would love a Glowforge, but they are out of my budget for the size pieces I will be cutting. I need at least 24" of cutting length. The Pro can do it, but $6K is 4K more than I am looking to spend this year.

Would I be better off trying This one (https://www.toolots.com/jy-4040.html) instead?

[Bill George]

My Link from above > https://sawmillcreek.org/search.php?searchid=12165196 works just fine. Click on it over 400 posts that cover what you need. This one especially > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?245127-Buying-A-Chinese-Laser-the-FULL-story-for-those-looking-to-make-a-purchase&highlight=low+cost+laser

[Michael Henriksen]

Bill, link doesn't work for me either. I think it works for you because it is cached on your PC.

Todd, what you find if you spend some hours searching and reading is just what you are asking for - peoples experiences. At some point people get tired of answering the same questions over and over again though. Also praising the Glowforge on this forum is treading in hot waters ;)

[Todd Heide]

LOL, For ease of use, the GF looks good on paper. I read a lot of reviews and they don't jive with the advert, so I can see how that can cause problems. Pretty much ruled it out, considering one STILL needs to use a CAD/CAM program to make the vector, then save it as a PDF to make it work. So nope, move on, Next! For the price of the Pro, for a few grand more one can get an Epilog.

Right now my biggest debate is whether to do baby steps with the 16x16 cutter, or go to the 28 x 20 cutter. The bigger one I don't think I can get into my downstairs shop, which means more work to be able to set it up in the garage and try to keep it clean.

The software will eventually work itself out, but I need a sounding board, which is primarily why I posted. Steer me in the right direction. I have already ruled out Dremel, Muse, and GF, too expensive for my end goal, maybe if I find I am good at it, and people want what I can make, then different story, but not looking for a side business, just making it easier to build the planes I can no longer buy kits for. I've got the plans, and hand cutting, meh, don't care for that, besides, blades for my Sears bandsaw are getting hard to come by.

So far, things to look for Ruida controller, Check
Cad software, checking out Cut2D, whether to get Pro or not depends on the size of the cutter, but looks like I can export from it in the correct format, and also use it to drive my Sherline since it uses G-code.

I've read a lot about tubes, and transporting, etc. but is there anything I should be looking out for?

[Bill George]

The second link works fine as its not an actual Search which had expired, Keyword Search as > buying+lowcost+laser will bring it back with over 400 posts.

[Kev Williams]

Check out IEHK.com- they import several types of machinery, laser engravers among them, and are based in Wayne PA, they have pics of the place and themselves on the 'about us' page- I emailed them awhile back, they got back to me and answered a few questions, and they have a couple of machines within your budget...

[Bert Kemp]

6090 80 watt 2500bucks wow that a good price prices have really come down over the years.

[Todd Heide]

Check out IEHK.com- they import several types of machinery, laser engravers among them, and are based in Wayne PA, they have pics of the place and themselves on the 'about us' page- I emailed them awhile back, they got back to me and answered a few questions, and they have a couple of machines within your budget...

Thank You, looking at it right now.

[Todd Heide]

Well, the one I would get is $1950 plus shipping, which is $300. So $2250. Over my budget, however, looking further, the next one up, with a 23 x 35 inch cutting area, 80w, is only $2800 shipped. If I bump the budget up to 3K, why not, right? As long as I can fit it in my workshop.

[Kev Williams]

NOTE!! -Be sure to ask if tariffs/duty/etc is included in the shipping cost-!

[Todd Heide]

NOTE!! -Be sure to ask if tariffs/duty/etc is included in the shipping cost-!

Good point, add it to my list.


Been looking at Corel Draw, and man, the search function is not helping. Most recent thread is 2 years old! Looking at Student and Home X8, and looks like wont be able to use it


- Some external file format support removed: DXF/DWG, DCS, CGM, JPEG 2000, etc.

Assuming that the laser I get uses Corelaser (is that a typo, or is that chinglish?) then I would have to export to DXF, or does it matter? The first thing I want to do before plunking down a large sum of money is get to know the software. It being the biggest hurdle. There is also Student and Home 2018 available, but again, very limited.

Recommended version?

[Bill George]

https://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?246980-Correct-Corel-draw-version&styleid=4

[Todd Heide]

https://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?246980-Correct-Corel-draw-version&styleid=4

Well, somewhat useful, though it is a 3 year old thread and those versions are hard to find. Since I run windows 10 and Linux, and older than X7 doesn't play nice with Win10, I would want to get at least a stable version. Now comes my confusion, what the heck package do I get? Graphics suite? Technical Suite?

[Doug Fisher]

You may want to look into LightBurn software. It is getting pretty mature now and works with a number of laser controllers. Every user is different, but many users are finding they have less need to rely on separate design and graphics programs since LB is becoming so versatile. I know it can work with some routers but I don't know if it can work with your mill at this time.

[Julian Ashcroft]

I use Inkscape for most of my designs it does most things I need at zero cost. Two of my lasers work well with Lightburn, the third has a controller that uses its own controller powercut. Lightburn has just added a text to path feature and I found myself designing a product in Lightburn saving it as a dxf and importing it into powercut, rather than using Inkscape.

If I bought a new machine today I would ensure it works with Lightburn. I asked that question when I bought a small Chinese metal tubed machine a few months back and the company said they now test that their machines work with Lightburn.

[Gary Hair]

You want the CorelDraw Graphics Suite, not the Technical Suite. Any version from X3 on up will work fine but I usually stick with one version behind the most current until the first couple of revisions come out. Student and Home doesn't have macros enabled so there will be some functionality you will be missing and you can't upgrade to the next version. There are supposedly other features missing from the H&S version but I'm not sure anyone has a definitive list of exactly what the differences are between them. If you are running a business then 100% you should get the full version, and still about 99% even if you are a hobbyist.


Well, somewhat useful, though it is a 3 year old thread and those versions are hard to find. Since I run windows 10 and Linux, and older than X7 doesn't play nice with Win10, I would want to get at least a stable version. Now comes my confusion, what the heck package do I get? Graphics suite? Technical Suite?

[Todd Heide]

Thanks to every one. So far I would say 90% of what I am trying to understand has been accomplished. The other 10% is in operation of the unit, but have to have one to even know, right? :D

So here is what I have so far. Controller, find one with a Ruida for best compatibility with software and drivers. Design software, Lightburn, or CorelDraw, and this is dependent on the controller since one works better with the other. The machine I have in mind will more than enough capacity for what my goals are. Cut2D pro is an option, need more research on it, but a friend of mine uses it for his CNC router and likes it. It is G-code based so will work with the Sherline,still researching it's use with a laser, some have made it work direct, others have not.

Since I want to have an all-in-one workstation to run both the laser and my CNC mill, which is Linux based, the Lightburn software appears to be a front runner, though I can network and use a winderz machine for the design software, so not locked into that, the real problem would be the drivers for the laser may not work on Linux.

One other option I am looking into is the Mach3/4 software which can drive both from a windows machine and I can ditch the Linux box for the Sherline.

Thanks to Kev for the IEHK link. I may go for the IE6040 once I nail down the software side.

[Todd Heide]

I gave Cut2D a test drive. In 2 hours I have figured out how to get a copy of one of the parts off the PDF, layer it at the bottom, add layers on top, and then trace the part. Since it is a half section of the fuselage former, I then had to mirror it. Easily done. I think I spent more time mucking around with CorelDraw and getting no where than I did figuring out the Cut2D and getting a viable part ready to cut. Other than the actual dimensions, it could have been sent to a laser to cut it out with.

So one down.

Two to go.

[Jerome Stanek]

I gave Cut2D a test drive. In 2 hours I have figured out how to get a copy of one of the parts off the PDF, layer it at the bottom, add layers on top, and then trace the part. Since it is a half section of the fuselage former, I then had to mirror it. Easily done. I think I spent more time mucking around with CorelDraw and getting no where than I did figuring out the Cut2D and getting a viable part ready to cut. Other than the actual dimensions, it could have been sent to a laser to cut it out with.

So one down.

Two to go.

I use Aspire to do that and then just export it as a DXF

[Todd Heide]

I use Aspire to do that and then just export it as a DXF

Aspire would be my entire budget! :) If I were ever to get to the level where a program like that would be a benefit, then it would make a good addition. For now looks like Cut2D will be top on the list. Unlimited trial period, so plenty of time to play around with it to make sure it is what I will need.

[Clark Hussey]

Check out Orion Motor Tech on eBay. They have several different laser models already in the country. I have their Blue and White 50 watt. Which I’m very pleased with. I’m also in contact with several people that own them. All are happy with their purchases. They are equipped with the Rudia controller. I use LightBurn to run the laser. You will also find them on Amazon for around $200.00 more than eBay. They are the exact same machines.

[Todd Heide]

Been looking at them, and found that the majority of lasers are ll from the same manufacturer under different names and prices for the same package. I found an Epilog 24TT 40 watt. Since it is a solid state laser, that would mean better cutting power per watt, correct?

[Jerome Stanek]

Aspire would be my entire budget! :) If I were ever to get to the level where a program like that would be a benefit, then it would make a good addition. For now looks like Cut2D will be top on the list. Unlimited trial period, so plenty of time to play around with it to make sure it is what I will need.

I use Aspire because I have it for my CNC router Cut 2d will work as well

[Todd Heide]

Thanks.

So, working through this now, and narrowing it down to an 80W 20 x 28 EBAY unit. Interesting how many different sellers have the same product, some are long wait shipping times, others are in warehouses in the states with a 5-7 day delivery time. Software will be the Cut2D, and may grab a home and student CorelDraw to play with photo engraving, in case the Cut2D doesn't do it well. The ones I am looking at use RDworks to cut/engrave with, so that's a plus, and I can download and install it to get the hang of it before getting the laser. Another plus is my 13 YO Daughter is an artist and can use Corel for some of her projects. Here (https://www.auctria.com/Az/24fa1642-460c-473c-b59e-ef3829a7e366/Event/Index?page=45d3bc76-9963-464c-bb33-63597f62f760&initial_state=~(82536d16-cb45-41c4-8e58-2c1a586a796c~(item~%276916f2b1-ff10-49ff-b5e6-1dbf5250cc44))) is one of them, she donated two of her drawings for charity. Her other one is #111. She is excited that she could do that.

[Todd Heide]

I am on the fence now, based on the controllers. What I can't determine, and a few hours of the "search" function has turned up ZILCH!

I was about to pull the trigger on this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-Port-60W-CO2-Laser-Cutter-Engraving-Cutting-Machine-600x400mm/273575728166) for a few reasons, software, chiller and this engraver puts me at my $2K mark. However, look at the controller panel. I have no clue as to what kind it is, only that is is stated as DSP and uses corelaser. If the controller is junk, then add another $400 for a Ruida.

If that is the case, then would this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Engraving-Cutting-Machine-Pro-USB-60W-Co2-Laser-Engraver-Cutter-20-x-28/252796092487?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SI M%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D58647%26meid%3Da35b1cd5d4e14be4 b37730657a236765%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D1 2%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D323463958987%26itm%3D2527960 92487&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851) be a better choice? It puts me over the $2k mark though.

The smaller one is lighter, easier to move, but requires a platform to set it on, and limits the amount of work I can do.

The larger one has all the room I would need for every project on my list, has a stand and wheels to move it around on, but is very heavy and may be too difficult to get into my workshop(the ONLY reason I haven't purchased it yet).


Can anyone enlighten me on the type of controller that is on the smaller one and if it works with Lightburn?


Oh, one more thing. My workshop is in the basement, and the temps are around 68* on average, rarely above 70, and in those cases, usually because someone forget to turn the AC on on a 90* day! Will a CW3000 work OK for these with the knowledge that it will not be used for long periods at a time? Again, this is for hobby use and I don't expect to be running it for long hours burning wood parts.

[Bert Kemp]

the 3000 is not a chiller it just circulates room temp water, spend the few extra bucks and get the 5000

[Todd Heide]

Yes, I know, it's an ambient chiller. Considering that the warmest it will be would be 68*, I was wondering if it would indeed keep the temp of the water @ 68*. I have seen a few people who are using the 3K on 80 watt machines, but considering how poorly some of these tubes are to begin with, the cooler the better. I watched two videos on Youtube from Sarbarmultimedia and learned more from those two than I did in two weeks of forum searches and google. Decided to go for the gold and get the 700 x 500 60 watt Chaser. I will also get a beam combiner for it. Will make aligning easier, and will know for sure exactly where the beam lands. Of course the very first thing will be a Ma meter.

[Todd Heide]

Sometimes it pays to compare. Was going to get a CW-5000. Found a few for $470. Decided just for the heck of it to look for a CW-5200. Glad I did. Found one for $8 more. So next week I should have a nice black and yellow 60W Chaser with 700 x 500 bed, 30 Ma meter to install, and the chiller. Working on the software at the moment, I need to go through my old Computer disks and see if I already have a copy of CorelDraw that can be upgraded. My only hurdle now is getting the beast down into my workshop.

[Bill George]

You'd think after all this "Free" help you would want to be a Contributor to help support the Forum. It costs money to run this forum for the hosting and upkeep. Advertising does not pay all the bills.

[Raymond Matos]

Sometimes it pays to compare. Was going to get a CW-5000. Found a few for $470. Decided just for the heck of it to look for a CW-5200. Glad I did. Found one for $8 more. So next week I should have a nice black and yellow 60W Chaser with 700 x 500 bed, 30 Ma meter to install, and the chiller. Working on the software at the moment, I need to go through my old Computer disks and see if I already have a copy of CorelDraw that can be upgraded. My only hurdle now is getting the beast down into my workshop.

So what laser and options did you end up getting. Im in the same boat and this seems to be the latest version of this topic. Tech changes so often that any topic 2 years or older is no longer relevant.

[Todd Heide]

So what laser and options did you end up getting. Im in the same boat and this seems to be the latest version of this topic. Tech changes so often that any topic 2 years or older is no longer relevant.

I picked up an Ebay 60 watt 700x500 Yellow and Black one, like this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Engraving-Cutting-Machine-Pro-USB-60W-Co2-Laser-Engraver-Cutter-20-x-28/252796092487?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3adbd24047:g:omgAAOSwTxJcJwjB&enc=AQADAAAB4KX%2FKt4E1xf3SDqEdBclaYbY1CeKwxQFyLLl yRLlZL8HXcley3vr3e0j3Z%2B6K6jTNrFPvvVRY3HetUT0iqyp kXgO5zTERgyT9wpZjJYL2TsajFEvnU8XX9eZNdmiH%2B3XxY7q T%2Br%2F09FSi2LubeKUhnjby%2BtKD%2BiuLRjx13bzDWRpty h%2BXEA8CmF0kJ0KFL4U4gAzXi7TZnKuln84ErHL%2BXyQb2DX 4rip%2B1K%2FqYzQT6Zco4fOevRMIgRjZvTtYR3Cb%2FkQGRPo bu%2FFXfT1Ftp8gy7tlDRMCgs8bprLMjExvv3GtsDyn3PxV%2B Jc%2FBTPha3EytD1SUQsXnikGnlYcmAZchmM5MBsHVanqfcc6M c8aDezsqydvQckLsqOaIvcGgpoPxqLKr3tSRHfLCEtWAnOYEST GIwPvYPL8uio8jF%2BzsDx1kuG1A3DaeWf8XJfAb5i6SkFwiTS PM0bjbByDkj3xMk06uiJ%2FOdet%2F23Oz4Mv988sPN%2BXpc9 6lrXyhun%2Fzf328JuLILERMjAvbFn5L27N5ihNQGMA%2F6yaQ pe%2FVCqk41O8uQU00xH0MDz9336aDy64uO1TRJU%2BzK06W4i ZmcI%2F5Au7GYVdhAC4hWYOPV%2B0YifeVa7%2ByD8t7qXBFBw kY%2BS5g%3D%3D&checksum=25279609248791196fb650654f0c98b46569326c2 393) one. I also got a CW-5200 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/CW-5200-Industry-Water-Chiller-for-CO2-Laser-Engraving-Cutting-Machine-110V/173936332552?hash=item287f69cf08:g:VLQAAOSwuzldB7j F) chiller to keep it cool. Been watching Russ (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqCyShJXqnElPTUnxX0mD5A) on Youtube with his RDworks training videos, Very informative and nice guy, has helped me tremendously. I bought CorelDraw Home and Student X8 to make the SVG, and Lightburn to control the laser.

Already got a good portion of ribs cut out for my Liberty Sport Biplane, and just about ready to cut a couple more sheets of them. My CAD experience from 30some years ago is slowing coming back which is making it easier. Of course a true CAD program would be better, but at this time not worth the cost since CD is doing the job.

On any of these lasers is it a must to install the Milliamp meter, so I got one from Amazon like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F26M6M2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and installed it. Works great. Of course I fully expect the tube to fail sooner rather than later since it is actually a 50W and not a 60W tube, which is why I use the meter and make sure not to over drive the tube at any time. When it does give up the gas, then either a Reci or EFR tube, though looks like there is a third option, MCWlaser that may be viable as well. Stay away from the cheap ebay tubes though, they are no better than the ones that come with the machine. Would much rather pay a bit more for the proper tube, then for a lower wattage that has to be replaced more often, and will eventually cost more in the long run.

[Raymond Matos]

Did you have to adjust the focus on the laser?

Also you sent an amp meter - are you testing the amps running to the laser tube?

Thanks for the input.

[Todd Heide]

Did you have to adjust the focus on the laser?

Also you sent an amp meter - are you testing the amps running to the laser tube?

Thanks for the input.

I had to clean and align everything. The mirrors were cloudy, and there was junk in the focusing tube. They also have the focusing lens in upside down with the convex on the bottom instead of the top so the cuts were blooming out. I was trying to understand why the cuts were on an angle until I look at the blank it came out of and found it too was on an angle. After flipping the lens around, the focus is much tighter and the cuts are straight now.

The meter is inline with the anode lead (-) so measures the Ma coming from the tube. It takes about 8 ma for it to burn, anything less and there is not enough power to make a mark. A full through cut at 50mm speed and 45% power to cut through soft 1/8" balsa is about 11 ma. For hard balsa at the same thickness needs 50% which is around 12-13 ma. I haven't gone above that power setting yet.

I use heavy 115 pound card stock that I get from Walmart for my test cuts, which is about 22.5% power to cut and 20% to scan. The scan is at 150mm. Anything below 20% doesn't make a mark, though I haven't slowed it down to verify.