64" groove for 1/4" plywood

[Michael Costa]

Hi guys.

First time posting in the cave.

I'm making an armoire and the side rails for the upper portion are 64" tall. The method of attachment to the 1/4" plywood panels is called stub and groove or something.

I ran my 3/4" stock thru my table saw to create this groove. However, one of these boards had a slight bend over the length of it. It was impossible for me to hold it tight against the fence and I ended up creating a very wide groove in the middle. You might be able to see this in the top of the photo.

I was thinking the only way to avoid this in the future is with hand tools. But I'm thinking is it even possibly (while maintaining sanity) to make a 1/4" wide 3/8" channel along the length of a 64" piece of wood with hand tools?

The first picture shows one complete middle side of the armoire. The second is what I was talking about making the second side.
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[steven c newman]

Stanley No. 45 does it all day long.
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Or, just about any other Plough Plane that can use a 1/4" wide cutter.
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Just set the fence so the groove is centered, and plough away.

[James Brislawn]

As Steven mentioned the plough (plow) plane is a great option, there are several other options as well, including wooden moulding planes (you can even make these yourself), or a tongue and groove plane.

The real way to fix the issue though, whether using hand tools a table saw or even a power router (edge guide or table) is with proper milling. You’ll want to get rid of that bend (I’m guessing bow based on the picture). The hand tools will conform to it better with the smaller registration face (fence) and the lack of power from a spinning blade that will tear through anything, though it’ll be harder to get a clean groove/tongue without a registration face. You will still have an issue when trying to match the mating piece, because the line won’t match up and you’ll have to hope the mating piece will fix the bend.

Long story short, square stock should fix you problem. No need to buy more tools. But hand tools are fun, plow planes especially so.

Edit: If you’re not going to take out the bow, your best bet might be a slot cutter bit on a router table. 3/4 stock with minimal Bow is pretty easy to hold flat to the router table top.

I thought of that the second I hit post lol

[Jeff Wittrock]

When I have to do this on a table saw ( I don't have a plow or rabbet plane ), I just make sure the convex side of the bow is towards the table saw fence and always index from this same side if i need to make multiple passes to widen the slot. This way I only have to maintain contact with the fence at the point adjacent to the center of the blade.

-Jeff

[Rob Luter]

I use featherboards to hold the stock tight against the fence. With the stock held captive in the blade area, the groove runs true.

[Michael Costa]

How do you get rid of the bow? I'm using 3/4" stock. Getting rid of that bow would reduce the thickness to at least 1/2" rendering it unusable. It seems like I cannot get a straight piece of 5/4 lumber if I go more than 48"

I'll look into the plough. Never heard of one. Probably a while host of issues being new on that. Firstly... I'm guessing its expensive.

Didnt think of the feather board. Probably because I dont have one or two. If I didn't just get this SawStop and wasnt using expensive cherry I wouldn't care too much I dont think. Now I'm just discouraged and want to sell or throw away everything.

[Tom M King]

A grooving plane, with a metal skate, is the easiest to use hand plane for that job. I have several that might have cost 15 dollars each. One I narrowed the 1/4" iron to work with 1/4" plywood for drawer bottoms. Their main limitation is you are fixed in distance from the edge, unlike an adjustable Plough Plane, but if the measurements are good enough, you can just pick the plane up, and do the job.

https://redrosereproductions.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/20190215_095440-1.jpg

[David Bassett]

... I'm guessing its expensive. ...

Depends on which you get. Jim Bode has a fancy antique one (in great shape) for $2995. He also had a tongue and groove pair for $59 in yesterday's email. (1/2 that pair, the grooving plane, is just a fixed fence Plow/Plough plane.) It looks like a new one from LV is $239 with a 1/4" blade, if you (like me) prefer to not rely on our refurbishment skills. So quite a range.

You seem like a power tool guy, you could use a fence on a router with a 1/4" bit to follow the boards bow (though I'd think it'd take a pretty steady hand. Routers & I have a love/hate, mostly hate, relationship. You might be more confident.)

[David Bassett]

(picture)

Pretty sure that's not a $15 plane in the photo. (Sold out, for $295. You can get on a waiting list for the next batch though.)

[Jim Koepke]

It looks like a new one from LV is $239 with a 1/4" blade, if you (like me) prefer to not rely on our refurbishment skills.

You might want to check your plywood. Most of what is being sold as 1/4" is actually 6mm.

A friend gave me a pack of Record blades for the Record equivalent of a Stanley #45, the blades are metric.

jtk

[David Eisenhauer]

Please - What brand is that plane Tom?

[Tom M King]

Pretty sure that's not a $15 plane in the photo. (Sold out, for $295. You can get on a waiting list for the next batch though.)

Yes. I just asked Google to find a picture. Mine are all old ones that were bought when shipping of a small packet from the UK was just a few dollars. My old, 15 dollar ones probably work just as good as a new 300 dollar one.

[Tom M King]

Please - What brand is that plane Tom?

I have no idea about the brand. I would never buy a new one. I just Googled "grooving molding plane picture", and that pic looked like a good one to represent the breed.

[J. Greg Jones]

It’s a Red Rose Reproduction.

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks guys. Just curious and couldn't quite decipher the logo.

[Phil Mueller]

While I enjoy using a plough plane, given you have an excellent table saw, I think the most cost effective thing to do is buy a few good feather boards. Since it’s not a through cut, you can place the feather boards both in front and behind the blade. This should flatten any minor bow at the point of the cut.

[Curt Harms]

While I enjoy using a plough plane, given you have an excellent table saw, I think the most cost effective thing to do is buy a few good feather boards. Since it’s not a through cut, you can place the feather boards both in front and behind the blade. This should flatten any minor bow at the point of the cut.

I think feather boards are what I'd try first. You may not have to buy anything, I make feather boards out of oak or ash scrap.