Need New Compressor Help!

[Derek Arita]

Ok...so I'm getting this Kobalt compressor.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-60-Gallon-Electric-Vertical-Air-Compressor/1000542193 and I need to know exactly what fittings and regulator I need, to get from the tank's 3/4" out, to 1 fitting for a 1/4" hose for my nailers and 1 fitting for 3/8" hose for other air tools? I feel like such a dummy about this stuff, but it's something I seldom have to think about, so I know very little about it. Thank goodness for the collective knowledge of this forum's members.:o

[Tom M King]

It should come with a little POS regulator on it, that might last for six months. I've found that the larger, and better quality the regulator is, the more trouble-free it is.

Use a good thread sealant paste (commonly called Pipe Dope) on the threads rated for high pressure. You can find that in the plumbing section of Lowes.

If it was mine, I'd put a good 3/8" regulator on it. You won't find that in Lowes, but can get them from Amazon, or ebay. Just buy whatever threaded adapters you need, after having the regulator in hand. I'd try to stay to the minimum number of adapters, so it doesn't stick out too far from the machine.

Another thing I'd do, while everything is new, and clean, is to change the drain to a street elbow, to a ball valve.

If you aren't heavily invested in quick connect fittings yet, change what you need to so everything uses the same fittings. I use Milton H style, but most use the smaller 1/4" fittings. The H is a tiny bit larger than optimum for some small things, but I get by so I can plug anything into anything.

[Tom M King]

If I was buying a new compressor, another thing I would do it put this stuff in the tank. I recently fixed a leaking fuel tank on a tractor, and lined the tank with this while I had it off. For an old tank, you have to clean the inside with muriatic acid, rinse, and dry, but for a new compressor tank, I'm sure it would stick just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49204-U-S-Standard-Sealer/dp/B00J594AEY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=fuel+tank+liner&qid=1559398277&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

You would have to get it into the bottom of the tank, and roll the tank around as much as possible, to get it up the walls as high as it will go. It will stick in a thin layer to anything, but you can cover as much area as possible by moving the tank around before it kicks. A couple of helpers would be required.

On that 1979 tractor fuel tank, I coated the whole inside. That tractor was used When I bought it 30 years ago, but since fixing that tank, it's been the first time that I have ever seen clear fuel in the glass fuel filter.

Water will collect in the bottom of a compressor tank, and any that comes out, whether through the drain, or hose, will have some brown rust in it.

This is just if I was to buy a new compressor, which I doubt I ever will. The last one I bought was a 10hp 200 gallon tank, but that one has some age on it off CL. If I ever need to pull the pump off of it, I intend to coat the whole inside of the tank.

[Brady Watson]

How many compressors do you want to buy in your lifetime?

After going through a number of sub-$1k compressors (probably totaling around $1800 for all), I just bit the bullet and bought an industrial grade Ingersoll with some extras. It's been going strong now for 10yrs+.

My recommendation is almost always to get what you want, and get something that's durable. Do it once, treat it right and you'll have it for a very long time. Nearly any compressor sold to the general public in a big box store is consumer grade. If you do any kind of real work with it - or aspire to (like sandblasting)...spend the extra ducks on something with more horsepower than you need (duty cycle) that will last. Then you probably won't ever have to buy one again.

[Derek Arita]

So, coming out of the 3/4" fitting, should I drop down to 1/2" or 3/8" to run to the regulator?

[Mike Cutler]

Ok...so I'm getting this Kobalt compressor.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-60-Gallon-Electric-Vertical-Air-Compressor/1000542193 and I need to know exactly what fittings and regulator I need, to get from the tank's 3/4" out, to 1 fitting for a 1/4" hose for my nailers and 1 fitting for 3/8" hose for other air tools? I feel like such a dummy about this stuff, but it's something I seldom have to think about, so I know very little about it. Thank goodness for the collective knowledge of this forum's members.:o

Derek

Need to know a little bit more.
Do you want to come straight off the tank to the regulator? In other words,is the regulator to be hard mounted to the receiver tank? This is not unusual, but there are better alternatives.
My compressor output first sees a 3/4" ball valve, and then a 3' section of 3/4" hose. This 3/4" hose id connected to 3/4" copper pipe riser to make a separator rack on the wall. This rack has approximately 30' of hard pipe configured in an up/down path, There are three sections of the rack, and a drain valve at the bottom of each leg. At the output of the separator rack there is another ball valve to isolate to loop. Between this ball valve and coalescing filter and regulator is 100' of 3/4" coiled hose in the overhead of my garage, and there is a drop/drain right at the filter.
Connected to the regulator output is the air hose. It would be at the regulator output you would install a Tee for the two sizes.

In my "system" you can see that is approximately 150' of piping and hose in between the tank and regulator. This is to facilitate "mechanical" moisture separation. In other words, I want to use the orifice restrictions, the elbows in the separator rack, and the friction of the length of piping/hose, to create differential pressure drops that cause moisture to come out of the gas, or air, and condense on the inside of the piping that I can manually remove.
Having the regulator mounted directly to the receiver thank will almost guarantee that you will always have a saturated air condition in the system. This is bad!

As for what you actually need? That kind of depends on what you want to do. Lowes has a pretty good selection of Filters and regulators. You will need a coalescing filter to remove any oils that may be in your system and then you'll need a regulator sized for you need. I'm pretty sure Lowes has a two stage "kit". If not Tractor Supply carries Campbell Hausfield and I know they sell a two stage kit. Don't buy the junk at Harbor Freight. Lowes, Home Depot, or Tractor Supply carry better air system parts.
Virtually all regulators are going to exceed the capability of that compressor. Either the coalescing filter, or the regulator will need some type of moisture trap, and the ability to blow it down.
I would ditch the idea of two sizes of air fitting. Standardize all of your tools to one size and put the pneumatic oiler on a whip close to the air tools when needed.

There's a lot to an air system, no matter the size, to make it work correctly and efficiently. I've been maintaining large industrial systems for most of my life. The problems are the same. The solutions are a bit different.

[Derek Arita]

Mike, thanks for the reply. I do want to keep it very simple, as I only have a garage shop, with simple compressor needs. I'd love to keep it all on the compressor or use hose to a fixed filter/regulator, then right out to a 3/8" quick disconnect, if possible. Should I keep it 3/4" and drop down at the filter/regulator or what? I'm confused as to where I should drop down to 3/8".

[Mike Cutler]

No, you do not have to stay with 3/4". You could go right to the filter/ regulator with 3/8" hose.
Mount the filter and regulator on the wall, and just run a short hose to it.
A 3/8" fitting, adapter or quick connect can easily pass 10 cfm with no pressure drop.
My regulator is a 3/8" npt, in and out, and is rated for 55cfm.

[Derek Arita]

Very cool. Thank you Mike. May I PM you if I have more questions?

[Mike Cutler]

Very cool. Thank you Mike. May I PM you if I have more questions?

Absolutely.

[Bill Dufour]

I recommend a ball valve first thing off the tank. The hose and regulators will always leak. A ball valve means you have a quick shot of air a month later without waiting and listening for the tank to fill.
Bill D.

[Mike Cutler]

Bill
I absolutely agree. You always want a way to isolate the receiver tank from the system.
I never depressurize my tank. I shut the ball valve and bleed down the system when it will sit idle.

[Derek Arita]

OK...so, 3/4 to 3/8 reducer, right off the tank>3/8 ball valve>3/8 filter/regulator>coupler out...? Does that sound right? Also, the filter regulator I'm looking at is rated at 250psi max and 72cfm@90. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JNCSB2E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A158LRHTFH4QLV&psc=1

[Tom M King]

I have one very similar to that (may even be the same one), and it's been trouble free for ever how many years it's been since I bought it. I changed that gauge, and the tank gauge to large ones, and I can see pressure readings from a long ways away. Gauges came off ebay- can't post a link here, but search for 4.5" compressor gauge in their search box- need a back mount one for the regulator.

[Mike Cutler]

OK...so, 3/4 to 3/8 reducer, right off the tank>3/8 ball valve>3/8 filter/regulator>coupler out...? Does that sound right? Also, the filter regulator I'm looking at is rated at 250psi max and 72cfm@90. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JNCSB2E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A158LRHTFH4QLV&psc=1

Derek
It should work just fine for what you stated you need.
I would probably go 3/4" NPT close nipple to 3/4" ball valve, and then put the 3/4" to 3/8" NPT reducer on the downstream side of the ball valve. This would give you a more robust mount at the tank, and should you want to change downstream pipe size for any reason in the future, or modify the system for future expansion, you wouldn't have to dump your receiver tank.
Put in a loop with a condensation drip leg right before the input to the filter regulator assembly.
A tip or two for you;
I've had problems with the "white" teflon tape from Lowes and Home Depot the past few years. I've been using the "yellow" gas tape for propane and natural gas with much better results.
Ball valves have a "high pressure side" and a "low pressure side" believe it or not, despite have the same seat/seal configuration on both side. There is an orientation for installation. If it's a Lowes, or Home Depot bought valve it will have a threaded flange that is "staked" on one side. This side is on the opposite side of the valve from the the tank. ("Staked" means that the threaded end has been mechanically locked by striking the mating flanges with a cold chisel.)
It's pretty easy to assume that you can "put the boots" to a 3/4" ball valve, or actually any brass ball valve but they're actually kind of fragile. Apply the sealant tape to both ends of the close pipe nipple and thread it into the valve, then start threading the valve and close nipple into the tank hand tight. One end of the close nipple will stop turning, the other maybe a little more. When both ends of the close nipple stop turning hand tight, you're pretty darn close. Use a wrench to turn the valve clockwise into the point of desired orientation and you should find it all air tight.If not go one full turn there. The valve on my tank is hand tight, with a pair of gloves on. No wrench was required. ;)

[Tom M King]

Years ago, when the only teflon tape available, or at least that was for sale around here, was the white tape, I had to use pipe dope on both threads, and the white teflon tape between, to ever get all the leaks out of a 175 psi compressor system. That particular setup is still holding leak free today. The compound probably would have held fine by itself, but I used the tape anyway. My later systems just use the sealant, and are working fine.

I've had better luck with the gray teflon tape lately, on other things, but still use tread sealant when I'm rigging up some new fittings on a compressor.

[Derek Arita]

So...just went take a close look at the compressor. I'm thinking of making up a bracket to hold the filter/regulator and attaching and attaching it to the main motor mounting bracket. If I have to move the compressor, everything will move solidly with it. I'll use pipe dope for the connections.
I've read it's a good idea to install a ball valve at the main drain, under the tank. Taking a look at the pic, how do I do that? Thanks for your patience with a real compressor dummy.https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/h151/derekarita1/0/d6449fcd-f493-4a2a-9f67-b9b273fae6e8-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/derekarita1/p/d6449fcd-f493-4a2a-9f67-b9b273fae6e8) https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/h151/derekarita1/0/ca2d2611-b105-4d8b-80ed-ecc8670c739d-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/derekarita1/p/ca2d2611-b105-4d8b-80ed-ecc8670c739d)

[Tom M King]

I use a galvanized street elbow, and some length nipple to put the ball valve out where you can reach it, but still underneath enough to protect it, and feet.

A street elbow has male threads on one side, so it can stay tucked up close under the tank. They have that stuff back in the plumbing section.

[Derek Arita]

Any idea on size of the elbow? 1/2...3/8...?

[Tom M King]

No idea. It's the same as that valve is where the red sealant is on it. You should be able to tell while it's in the store. You can surely tell by screwing that thing out.

[Bill Dufour]

I bought a similar compressor and it rocked a little on startup. I stopped on the side of the highway and picked up some tire treads thrown by big rigs. Put one under each foot and it stays in place now. I really should chain it to the wall so it can not fall over.
No idea where you live but if it is North America you live in a earthquake zone or a huricane area that could knock over the tank and shear off pressure lines.
Bil lD.

[Derek Arita]

Yeah...NorCal...and I def plan on strapping it, once in place. Yes It's going to be on a mobile base, but I'll only be moving it when I have to.

[Mike Cutler]

Derek
It looks like a 1/4" NPT drain valve on the bottom of the tank. It is more than likely operated with an allen wrench.
If you want change it out switch it to a 1/4" male NPT to 1/4" female NPT street elbow. Put about a10"-12", 1/4" NPT pipe nipple, and it should locate the new 1/4" NPT ball valve just outside the circumference of the tank.

[Derek Arita]

Thanks Mike. All great information and just what I need. I don't know why, but I have such a block about all this stuff. I guess I've always gone 1/4 NPT on everything and never gave it another thought, not even knowing it was 1/4 NPT. Funny...:(

[Mike Cutler]

Derek

Be careful when you take that fitting out, that the bung doesn't rotate with it. That fitting looks to have a red "thread locker" on it. The bung is most likely sealed with a o-ring type seal, so it's not gorilla torqued into place. If that fitting is really glued in there, you might have to heat it with a heat gun first.

I always have trouble in home centers because I am looking for the parts I would use at work, an industrial environment, and have to find the "non-industrial"equivalent.

[Derek Arita]

If I run hose off of the tank, what 3/4" hose should I look for?

[Jerome Stanek]

I would change out the drain valve on the bottom with an auto drain

[Mike Cutler]

If I run hose off of the tank, what 3/4" hose should I look for?

I used a section of hydraulic hose from Tractor supply. I Think it's rated for 1500+psi. Basically though, any semi sttiff hose with a working pressure that exceeds your compressor discharge pressure would be fine. I think GoodYear makes some hose rated for 300psi.
I thought you were transitioning to 3/8" off the isolation ball valve?

[Derek Arita]

I used a section of hydraulic hose from Tractor supply. I Think it's rated for 1500+psi. Basically though, any semi sttiff hose with a working pressure that exceeds your compressor discharge pressure would be fine. I think GoodYear makes some hose rated for 300psi.
I thought you were transitioning to 3/8" off the isolation ball valve?
Ya...that's likely what I'll do. What I have to do is, sit down with paper and pencil and diagram it out, simple as it may seem. Wish there was shop close by that has the parts and the knowledge. Oh well...that's the drawback of online shopping.

[Bill Dufour]

I replaced the tank drain on mine with a street elbow into PEX then about 16" of pex to an auto drain valve. I ran some old rubber air hose from the drain to outside the shop to reduce noise on blowoff.
Bil lD

[Mike Cutler]

I replaced the tank drain on mine with a street elbow into PEX then about 16" of pex to an auto drain valve. I ran some old rubber air hose from the drain to outside the shop to reduce noise on blowoff.
Bil lD

I like that idea!!
Thank you.

[Bill Dufour]

I like that idea!!
Thank you.

I should have put a ball valve ahead of the automatic one in case it needs any repair. I did have to take it apart and clean out some goo once.

[Derek Arita]

I'm kinda thinking going from output adapter, to ball valve, to filter/regulator, to output connector...seems like a lot to be hanging out there. Can I somehow hang it off the large motor mount bracket? Does anyone do that?

[Jak Kelly]

Not trying to promote one brand over another but after going over the reviews and all I wound up getting a Quincy Model # 2V41C60VC air-compressor from Lowe's. Yes it cost more, but it will be a good air-compressor that should last me the rest of my life and be capable of operating a DA-sander. I think it was $1100 and took about 10 days to come in. The web-site say $1500, Northern runs them for cheaper than that, I was prepared to make them do a price match and it rang up $70 less than Northern. Maybe Lowe's or Quincy was running a special last month or something, I don't know, but I did not pay $1500.

[Derek Arita]

Not trying to promote one brand over another but after going over the reviews and all I wound up getting a Quincy Model # 2V41C60VC air-compressor from Lowe's. Yes it cost more, but it will be a good air-compressor that should last me the rest of my life and be capable of operating a DA-sander. I think it was $1100 and took about 10 days to come in. The web-site say $1500, Northern runs them for cheaper than that, I was prepared to make them do a price match and it rang up $70 less than Northern. Maybe Lowe's or Quincy was running a special last month or something, I don't know, but I did not pay $1500.
Ya...there's no way even $1100 fits my retirement budget. The Kobalt is the best bang, for its low buck price. That decision has been made, so now its back to, how do I hook this thing up...

[Derek Arita]

OK...here's what I'm thinking...I'll install a plate on the end of the U shaped motor mount to serve as a platform for the parts of the install. 3/4 street elbow off the output heading to the left. Then the ball valve to an elbow heading up, then another elbow going right, then a reducer to 3/8, then the filter/reg and finally the output. Now, does this sound doable? Am I reducing to 3/8 at an appropriate point...maybe reducer right off the ball valve? Would I be better off using hose, rather than the elbows and nipples to make the turn?https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/h151/derekarita1/0/5cdd6cb2-7ff4-4790-bf2a-650eeb5f5721-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/derekarita1/p/5cdd6cb2-7ff4-4790-bf2a-650eeb5f5721)

[Jak Kelly]

That is somewhat similar to how I did mine. Mine already had a shut-off valve coming out of the air compressor, I think 3/4" going to a 1/2" bell reducer. I came out with a short nipple, added a T, the T is so I could run a straight 8" nipple going down and added another 1/2" ball valve (the leg going down is supposed to catch water as well, then I can occasionally drain that ball valve periodically or at least check it), then went up with 2 - 10" nipples, added another elbow with a 3/8" reducer in the end of it, 3/8" nipple, regulator, nipple, filter, then made my own manifold out of 3/8" T's, 3 of them, and went ahead and installed 3 female quick disconnects.
If any of this helps.
If you look up the model of the Quincy I gave you will see that they have an extension for the bottom drain port that is mounted to one of the 3 legs, so you do not have to get on your hands and knees and feel around up underneath it. Doesn't look to hard to make something similar either.
Lowe's also sells a vibration dampening pad kit, like $15 or so.
I think the majority of the quick disconnects, regulators and filters are 3/8" NPT.

[Bill Dufour]

I would mount the filters, regualtors, etc on the wall at eye level. Connect with a short length of rubber hose.
Bill D.

[Jak Kelly]

I would mount the filters, regualtors, etc on the wall at eye level. Connect with a short length of rubber hose.
Bill D.

I would not disagree with this logic at all. I however simply did not have the room, so I made my set-up loop back over the top of the air-compressor, if that was understood in my post.
This may seem odd to some, or even problematic with the positioning of such being that high. But I am also a tall guy and am forced to maximize for space, even when it makes some things less convenient.

[Derek Arita]

Jak, I'd love to see a pic if you can. Thanks for the reply.

[Jak Kelly]

Jak, I'd love to see a pic if you can. Thanks for the reply.

Absolutely, unfortunately I don't think that I can post pictures here anymore. I was going to send you a private message but that feature has been blocked from me as well.
I am not a paying member, sorry. If you want to send me an e-mail to jakson200369 at yahoo.com then I will gladly send you a picture(s) tonight via e-mail.
Hopefully I don't get into trouble for doing that either........
I used about a 2 foot piece of unistrut, a unistrut bracket and a 3/4" conduit clamp to secure the loop over the top back to the air-compressor. I bolted the unistrut to that top upside down "U" plate.

[Richard Verwoest]

I recently went through this learning process also. I got the equivalent compressor from Dewalt. What a learning curve. Northern Tool has some good parts also. I added one of their drain plug extension kits. I also wanted to keep my compressor a bit portable. So I built a platform with castors. It is not much bigger than the compressors foot print, maybe 24x24. I also included what I call a "pony" wall on the platform. This is where I mounted the regulator, filter, etc. And I also mounted a simple garden hose reel to wrap the air line around.

Richard

[Tom M King]

I have used this brand of 2-ear clamps for 45 years, and never had one come loose. They come in a bunch of sizes. I don't know if this is the size you need-was just the first link that Google found.

You don't need to buy their special pliers. I have always just used end cutting nippers, that I always keep around for pulling nails. Just don't squeeze hard enough to cut the metal, of course.

I bought a Chinese assortment set, but they were so soft that I didn't trust them.

https://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-10100027-Zinc-Plated-Double-Closed/dp/B01IIGKKHK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_236_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NK7VKNJJB9AWAW7ZTGKS

You can get them off with a small nail set, and even reuse them. The small nailset will start in the little hole, and then drive it in so the taper opens the clamp.

[Derek Arita]

What do you folks think about the braided steel hose, drain plug replacement kits? If not, what's a good alternative?

[Derek Arita]

By the way...anyone on the fence about this compressor, it’s on sale right now for $499. Darn good price for this compressor.

[Frank Pratt]

By the way...anyone on the fence about this compressor, it’s on sale right now for $499. Darn good price for this compressor.

Can't say about that one, but I got a Husky brand compressor of similar size & price range. The pump isn't exactly the same as the Kobalt, but similar. At that price point, I don't think one can expect to get a great compressor. Mine is very noisy & after 6 or 8 years of hobby shop use, is getting noisier & I don't expect to get a lot of years out of this thing.