Rip Blade

[Frank Drackman]

Time for a new rip blade for my Sawstop. My default blade is from Ridge Carbide Tool. Are there other brands that I should investigate? I love Forrest for SCMS, but not a fan for table saw blades.

[lowell holmes]

I have a 10" Tenryu Gold Medal thin kerf blade on my Delta tablesaw. It was sharpened one time and is an excellent blade.
It is a combination blade.

[John Jenkins4]

I've been using a Woodworker II for about 18 months. I've been quite happy with it.

[Rod Sheridan]

FSTools rip blade, works great, thick plate, large teeth......Rod

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Here's what I have been using https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-blades/ripping-saw-blades/10-ripping-saw-blade-24t-097-kerf

[Joseph Quattro]

I just last week installed a Freud 10" x 50T Combination Blade (LU84R011) and am so far very impressed. Ive only 'ripped' plywood with it

[Jeff Duncan]

I just last week installed a Freud 10" x 50T Combination Blade (LU84R011) and am so far very impressed. Ive only 'ripped' plywood with it

I would not recommend it as a ripping blade with 50 teeth though;)

I like Forrest blades and use Freud as well. My rip blades are 12" and I think have 20 teeth. With thinner stock you can get away with using a 30 tooth or even a 40 tooth 10" blade. But if your planning on running thicker stock..... less teeth is better.

good luck,
JeffD

[Ray Newman]

My dedicated rip blade is the Freud 10" Heavy Duty Rip, 24 teeth, 20 degree hook. Freud item # LM72R010I.

No effort is required to push the work through the cut -- seems as if the work self-feeds. Very smooth cut without any need to joint the edge

[Lisa Starr]

I keep a Freud Combo blade on my TS most of the time. If I have some amount of ripping work, I switch to a Freud Glue Line Rip blade. It does a great job.

[Steve Eure]

Not to hijack this thread, but, Ken, do you need a blade stabilizer with that thin kerf blade from Infinity?

[Bob Hinden]

Here's what I have been using https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-blades/ripping-saw-blades/10-ripping-saw-blade-24t-097-kerf

While it looks very nice, it's my understanding that Sawstop doesn't recommend blades with Anti-Kickback shoulders.

Bob

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Not to hijack this thread, but, Ken, do you need a blade stabilizer with that thin kerf blade from Infinity?


Steve, I use the full kerf version of that. Here's the number 010-024. I don't use any thin kerf blades.

[Patrick Kane]

I have a 12” ridge carbide rip blade. I have to say, I might be in the camp of buying an inexpensive rip blade like the Freud. Save your money for crosscut blades.

[Mike Henderson]

I tried the Ridge and prefer the Infinity. The Ridge had one advantage - it has a few teeth cut square across so you get a flat bottom cut. But that doesn't mean much on most cuts.

I also have a Tenryu that I like.

Mike

[Rich Engelhardt]

Freud Glue Line Rip Blade fan here....full kerf.
I seldom if ever rip anything over 1" thick so a full kerf works well on my 120 V contractor saw (Ridgid TS3660)

[Larry Frank]

I use Freud Full Kerf Glue Line Rip for years and very happy with them.

[Jon Nuckles]

The better Freud blades are good, but be aware that they are a “metric 10 inch” blade and are a bit smaller than a true 10” in diameter. With a Sawstop, that means more adjustment of the brake setting when you change blades. You might also drop below the minimum diameter to work with a Sawstop after a sharpening or three.

[Mike O'Keefe]

Freud Glue Line Rip Blade. I've had really good luck with mine.

[Frank Drackman]

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to post. It is great to hear all of the different ideas.

[Rob Luter]

Here’s something out of left field.....

Where I live there are a number of sharpening shops. We have a bunch of industrial woodworking companies around here that they service. Most of these guys process red oak for trim, furniture, or RV accessories. They have the blade thing figured out. I had a sharpening shop tune up a backsaw for me. While I was there, I noticed a bunch of saw blades for sale. Industrial grade, huge carbide teeth, custom ground in any pattern you wanted. And very modest prices. I could buy three blades for my Ridgid table saw for the price of a Forest or Freud. I am a full 10 years in on a combo and rip blade. They still cut oak like styrofoam. The rip saw cuts a glue joint right off the blade. Places like this are worth a look.

[Jim Dwight]

I wish I knew of a sharpening service near me. I have mailed blades to Ridge and been happy with the result but it is not cheap or especially easy.

I like my full kerf Freud ripping blade, it has 24 teeth. But I bought a two blade set with a 24 tooth ripper and a 50 tooth combination from Infinity when I got my SawStop PCS 1.75. I used full kerf and thin kerf on my old Ryobi BT3100 and never noticed much difference. I have been unpleasantly surprised so far with the PCS and these Infinity blades. I think part of it is the riving knife is too thin and on one cut that gave me trouble it was letting the wood pinch the blade on the back side which is bad for multiple reasons. Long story to say I am not sure if thin or thick is recommended if you are less than 3hp. If you have 3 hp or more I would definitely go thick. I have not used the Infinity ripping blade, same as Ken has, on my old Ryobi but I see no reason it would not work as well as my older Freud. They both have 24 flat top teeth and deep gullets.

[Matt Tebo]

I have had great results with saw blades and recently an insert head lock miter cutter for my shaper from Royce-Ayr. Very high quality products and their customer service is second to none.

[Ron Kellison]

I have a Systematic 10" 24-tooth rip blade that I that I picked up about 10 years ago. Systematic has been discontinued but, if you can find one, grab it. Thick carbide which can be resharpened several times. I've had mine resharpened twice and it looks like the carbide could be sharpened at least 3 more times. Wonderfully smooth, no saw marks and it feeds easily. If you find one on eBay or at a flea market grab it! I have a Forrest Chopmaster on my slider, a Ridge Carbide combo blade on my Unisaw but if I'm doing any serious ripping I'll turn to the Systematic.

[Lee Schierer]

Freud Glue Line Rip Blade fan here....full kerf.
I seldom if ever rip anything over 1" thick so a full kerf works well on my 120 V contractor saw (Ridgid TS3660)

I really like my full kerf Glue Line RIP blade. It cuts very clean and works well on my Craftsman TS. It walked through trips in hickory with no issues.

[Jon Grider]

I have the Freud 24 T 10" glue line rip blade. Compared to my Tenryu Gold combo blades, it leaves a fuzzy edge. It may be a little faster, but the cut is not as good.

[Lee Schierer]

I have the Freud 24 T 10" glue line rip blade. Compared to my Tenryu Gold combo blades, it leaves a fuzzy edge. It may be a little faster, but the cut is not as good.

What type of wood is showing this problem? Do you use a zero clearance insert and when was the last time you checked your saw alignment?

[Charles Lent]

I use a Freud LM72R010 rip blade. It has a FTG grind and a 0.126" kerf. I use it for most all of my solid wood ripping as well as cutting 1/8" box joints. The cuts are smooth and fast with a nice smooth and square cut.

Charley

[Jon Grider]

What type of wood is showing this problem? Do you use a zero clearance insert and when was the last time you checked your saw alignment?
Hi Lee, I hope I didn't come off as being argumentative about the Freud rip blade. I see others have had good results with it.
I do a lot of ripping strips from various species, and normally I just leave my combo blade in. I had purchased the Freud several years go but had not used it. I wanted to avoid dulling my freshly sharpened Tenryu Gold while ripping some Jarrah, Jatobe, and hard maple strips but was not getting a very smooth edge with the Freud. The Tenryu left a nice glueable edge that I have become accustomed to. I also tried for comparison, ripping some of the Radiatta pine the Orange store sells. Same result. My PM 66 is aligned well but I confess I do not use a ZCI often unless cutting good plywood. Perhaps my Freud is defective but I've had it for several years, and don't remember where I bought it. Anyway, thanks for the input and I hope I didn't step on any toes with my post.

[Jeff Bartley]

I've used both the thin kerf and 0.026 kerf Frued rip blades. I think the thin kerf has 30 teeth, the 0.026 has 24. The thin kerf was just the ticket way back when I had an underpowered saw, and the 0.026 has been a great performer.

More recently I picked up an Amana euro rip, it's also a 0.026 kerf but has 20 teeth. It leaves a good surface, comparable to the Frued, but I think it rips a little faster.

But most recently I picked up a 16", 36 tooth, 0.1875 kerf blade from Popular Tools for the Oliver saw. It's been amazing. Now, arguably the machine has as much to do with its performance as the blade itself. The other blade on that machine is a Woodworker II.

Both the Amana and the Popular Tools came from my local sharpening shop. I feel spoiled with them because all I have to do is call them and their delivery truck will show up at my shop and bring me any blade I need.