Must have safety accessories for older TS

[Joe Frank]

Finally pulled the trigger on a used TS (Ridgid TS 3660) since gaining some spring cleaning workspace. Been some years since I used a TS and feel completely out of date with how modern things are now in the safety dept.

My main use for it is going to be ripping various walnut,white oak,poplar for smaller furniture craft projects such as small resin river tables for sofa tables, cutting boards,pic frames etc..

Been researching various riving knives, shark guards, splitters, featherboards (both that attach to your fence as well as magnetic ones), push sticks,and different style sleds. A little overwhelmed to say the least. My understanding is this model does not have a riving knife area to attach to so that option may be out the window.

I'll be cutting some smaller hard wood pieces mostly so it'd be comforting to get an idea on how most of you are setup these days.

I should say I also have a chop saw, band saw, and surface planer I plan to use.

Appreciate any input!

[Robert Engel]

I use the Micro jig splitter. I don't know of an after market splitter they are tied to the design of the machine.

I use push blocks not a big fan of push sticks. I make up several at a time out of 2x4's, attach a 1" dowel and toss them when they get chewed up.

Magnetic featherboards work well and can be used on other machines like bandsaws.

A simple sled should suffice to start with. A small sled for small parts is handy.

Finally, I recommend spending some time educating yourself about TS safety. And be aware there are lots of YouTube videos out there with guys doing horribly dangerous things.

Take time to look at what you're cutting. Learning to read your lumber is important (warps, cups, knots, etc).

I don't know what you mean by small pieces, but they can be more dangerous to run through a TS.

[Michelle Rich]

I put a sharguard system on my 1980's era contactor. Best upgrade I've done for my safety. now I even have dustcollection. what a difference.

[Joe Frank]

I use the Micro jig splitter. I don't know of an after market splitter they are tied to the design of the machine.

I use push blocks not a big fan of push sticks. I make up several at a time out of 2x4's, attach a 1" dowel and toss them when they get chewed up.

Magnetic featherboards work well and can be used on other machines like bandsaws.

A simple sled should suffice to start with. A small sled for small parts is handy.

Finally, I recommend spending some time educating yourself about TS safety. And be aware there are lots of YouTube videos out there with guys doing horribly dangerous things.

Take time to look at what you're cutting. Learning to read your lumber is important (warps, cups, knots, etc).

I don't know what you mean by small pieces, but they can be more dangerous to run through a TS.

Thank you for the fast reply.

I'll check out the micro splitter.

With regards to small pieces I'll be making various small rips for playing with various wood mosaics (3d and herringbone layouts) on old existing furniture and wall art as well as small rips for cutting boards.

I've been brushing up on TS safety videos. Modern advancement in video slo-mo definitely creates some shock factor :eek:.

I picked up a good amount of 2" scrap walnut that has some interesting figure. I can already see the blade pinching now.

[Joe Frank]

I put a sharguard system on my 1980's era contactor. Best upgrade I've done for my safety. now I even have dustcollection. what a difference.

I couldn't find this system in a google search. Is there a different spelling/name?

[Mike Henderson]

I couldn't find this system in a google search. Is there a different spelling/name?

Probably meant Shark Guard (http://www.thesharkguard.com/).

Mike

[Jim Morgan]

That's "sharkguard."

A riving knife is best, but if that's not possible, do use a splitter of some sort. Another excellent, though pricey, safety add-on is the JessEm clear-cut stock guides. These hold work pieces down on the table and in toward the fence, and they have one-way rollers that help arrest kickbacks. As a bonus, they give you better quality cuts.

[Joe Frank]

Ah I have an email exchange going with Sharkguard. Thanks for clearing that up.

Found the JessEm guides last night. Those look pretty trick.. not cheap but they look well thought out.

[Jacob Reverb]

Finally, I recommend spending some time educating yourself about TS safety. And be aware there are lots of YouTube videos out there with guys doing horribly dangerous things.

x10

OP, I know this doesn't really answer your question, but iMHO, safe work practices are more important than safety gadgets, since safe practices will protect you against things that gadgets won't. To that end, I'd review and make sure I remembered the safe methods of work. Try not to ever stand behind the blade. Don't reach over the blade, and especially never try to "pull" the workpiece through the saw from behind the blade, as a kickback could pull your hand into the blade. Adjust your fence to give a little more clearance between blade and fence (say 1/32") at the far end of the saw than at the front of the saw. Make sure your blade is parallel to miter slots. Push sticks and feather boards are nice to have and use, and can be made from scrap. Protect your eyes, and put your saw and shop lighting on separate circuits (so that if you throw a breaker with your saw, you're not instantly in the dark). Watch the blade-workpiece interaction at all times, and guard against the workpiece lifting away from the blade, or twisting, or (if you have no riving knife) the kerf closing on the blade like a brake caliper. Clamping work to the miter gauge (and putting sandpaper on the face of the miter fence) can help prevent movement that causes grief. Be safe and have fun.

[Doug Garson]

Agree with Jacob, technique can be more important than any safety feature you can retrofit to an old saw. As someone else said there are good and bad Youtube videos out there, a good series is Table Saw 101 by Stumpy Nubs aka James Hamilton. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSbS5zhH7cE&list=PL-gT7JMZFYjdLyzXQ6-TeJsFvB2mZjUe6

[David Kumm]

The first thing I would verify is that the fence tightens exactly parallel to the blade and does it repeatedly. A poorly designed or adjusted fence is worse than no splitter or riving knife in my world. Check it and recheck it before ripping wood. Don't try to rip construction lumber or wood not very dry until you get a feel for the machine. Wet lumber ( >12-14% MC ) should go to the bandsaw. Dave

[Brian Tymchak]

Ah I have an email exchange going with Sharkguard. Thanks for clearing that up.



I have the TS3650. the stock guard/splitter/pawl assembly was ok but got in the way on occasion. I upgraded my rails and fence to the Incra system and the precision is remarkable. Having done so though, the stock guard assembly does not work with the rear rail. I ended up going with the micro-jig splitter. Very nice solution and the price can't be beat. I mention this because if you are contemplating upgrading the fence/rail system on your saw, any guard system you buy now may restrict your choice of rails/fence systems.

[Rick Potter]

Joe,

The first safety feature for use with the small pieces you mention would be a simple, SMALL sled. There are many on you tube you could check out. I would recommend starting with the really basic type that you could use for a while, while you determine any added features you want to add.

Second thing I would make is a selection of push blocks/sticks. My favorite is a handsaw handle type, but I have a half dozen for special needs.

If you want to buy, both these things are available.

[Bruce Page]

Good common sense is the best accessory. Think through what you are about to do BEFORE you do it. If the cut doesn’t feel right, don’t do it. A band saw, while it can still be dangerous can cut smaller pieces more safely. Use an easy to access power switch and know where it’s at without having to look for it. Never pull back out of a cut without stopping the blade completely first.

[Roger Feeley]

Nobody mentioned sharp blades as a safety feature but they are very important. If you have a dull blade, you have to push the work. If you push the work, you are exerting more force towards the blade. If you slip, it's harder to catch yourself.

I keep two of every blade (except stacked dado set). Then I'm never tempted to saw just a few more before sending a blade off for sharpening.

[Oliver Steele]

Woodstock Board Buddies are a cheaper alternative to the (awesome looking) JessEm guides. Thanks to Trent Davis’s page https://www.trentdavis.net/wp/2018/08/06/helpful-sawstop-links/ for clueing me into them. I haven’t tried them yet but when I’m ready to splurge again on more store-bought jiggery, I’m tempted.

I’m relatively new to woodworking but some principles I’ve gathered follow.

When using push sticks to rip, avoid the antipattern of making contact only with the near end of the work. Doing so keeps your hands further from the blade (the visible danger), but it increases the risk of kickback (the invisible danger) - it’s the far end that the blade is trying to lift; pushing the near end away from you horizontally does nothing to control this; and it’s easy to push down as well, which helps lever the far end upwards. The style of stick that bears along the top face of the piece instead of the near end is safer.

Bob Van Dyke’s shop-built L Fence can’t be used on through cuts, but it avoids a number of kickback opportunities for rabbets and tenons.

The less material is cut off, the easier it is for the blade to grab ahold of it, but the less damage it can do when it hits you. You can plan your cuts around: workpiece control, avoiding captive pieces, and minimizing the mass of possible captives. (Sometimes these are competing concerns.)

I like to take an adversarial approach: okay, saw, what ammunition am I giving you today (by sending it to the rear of the blade and letting you grab both sides of it), how might you use it, and do I want to re-plan my cut now that I’ve thought of that. It sounds like a lot of work but you quickly build up a set of idioms for how to make each kind of cut.

[glenn bradley]

A good alignment

410333

Splitter
ZCI

410332

Grr-Ripper

410334

Sled(s)
Outfeed support

[Ryan Lloyd]

Hello Joe,

I have the same saw, and share your concerns about safety.

Before doing anything else, I recommend going through the owners manual (there are digital copies available online). In addition to the safety information, it is important to ensure your saw is set up correctly. Among other things: it is essential to ensure the table is properly aligned with the bade, and also that the fence is aligned with the table and locks down securely. I deliberately angle my fence very slightly away from the blade, to reduce the possibility of binding against the back of the blade, but not everyone agrees with this approach.

One challenge you face with the Ridgid TS3660 is that the stock splitter is not full dimension and so it may not be worth much for prevent kickback (the guard includes pawls for that, which are okay at best). Installing an after-market splitter, either shop-made or the MicroJig, prevents the installation of the Ridgid blade guard. As a result: you are faced with keeping the original blade guard installed and forgoing an adequate splitter, or omitting or replacing that guard so that a proper splitter can be fitted.

As for guards, the Shark Guard is a good choice provided that you only plan to make through cuts (a considerable limitation). To accommodate partial depth cuts or dado cuts, you need to choose an over-arm blade guard. I would select a floor standing over-arm guard rather than one that clamps to the table, because the forces applied when clamping these long appendages to corner of the table can flex on all but the sturdiest tops.

I have a pair of GRR-Ripper push blocks that I like for some operations, but generally I prefer to use push blocks that I make myself from scraps of 2x10 lumber. With the blocks I make myself, I run them straight through the blade when ripping small pieces, and replace as needed. I keep a variety at hand, with different sizes and hooks.

I have the JessEm TS Stock Guides installed on my saw (a tight fit on the Ridgid fence), and I feel that this contraption does improve the quality and safety of my ripping. Not all cutting operations are compatible with these guides, however. They can be tricky or impossible to use when ripping small pieces.

Feather boards may also be useful, in some cases. Please note that placing a feather board behind the blade will pinch any off-cut against the back of the blade, which is a sure way to cause kickback. I like the MagSwitch feather boards, but there are many quality options available.

As Rick mentions, a crosscut sled is invaluable for cross cutting and/or working with small pieces of wood. There are many good tutorials for building a crosscut sled, but I am partial to William Ng’s method (see youtube).

The downside of safety accessories is that these devices can contribute to increased complacency. There is absolutely no substitution for working carefully. If you are less than confident about how to handle yourself around the saw, education is strongly recommended. Be selective about who you learn from, however. I’ve known several experienced woodworkers, both amateur and professional, who do not use so much as a splitter or riving on their saws, let alone a blade guard.

Best of luck.

Regards,
Ryan

[Joe Frank]

Thanks for the outpouring of info guys. Spent a good amount of time last night and today refreshing and learning some new things about what TS can do. Always liked Stumpy Nubs and how informative he is. Ibuilditscrapbin is another youtuber I like.

I've always liked push blocks and think I'll make my own and get a couple of bigger L Shaped push sticks. Also looking at making a small sled once I get squared away.

Ryan thanks for the info. I've been thumbing through my manual and I'm in the middle of assembling my table and the guard support (part i55) didn't come with my table. Sharkguard said he's fabricated that piece along with the other guard attachment so I may be a bit limited here unless I go standalone (still need to research a bit more).

How did your saw do cutting 8/4 hardwoods like maple and walnut? What blade did you find worked best with our motor? I've been looking at a Freud 30t Glue Line Rip and a Freud 24t (LU87R010).


I'm definitely going to be getting back into things a bit slow and steady. I'm in no rush to crank anything out just trying to get some piece of mind.

Thanks again everyone for the insight.

[Rick Potter]

When making those 'L' shaped push sticks, be aware of the grain if you use solid wood. You don't want to have the handle connected to the bottom with just a bit of horizontal grain. Snap!

I make mine from plywood. Much less chance of it breaking.

[Ryan Lloyd]

How did your saw do cutting 8/4 hardwoods like maple and walnut? What blade did you find worked best with our motor? I've been looking at a Freud 30t Glue Line Rip and a Freud 24t (LU87R010).

Hello Joe,

I use the 1/8" version of the Freud 24T (LM72R010) as my primary ripping blade on the TS3660, and I have been satisfied with it. So long as the blade is clean and my pace is even, I can usually rip 8/4 sugar/rock maple without burning or excessive bogging.

When I do notice the saw starting to struggle, I simply make my cut in two passes rather than one. I have occasionally had issues with deflection when using thin kerfed blades (the saw plate is also thinner), and given the above I chose the heavier option. I also lack the ambition to make and manage any more zero-clearance throat plates than I have to, so I have standardized on 1/8” blades in my shop.

I do not have experience with the Freud Glue Line blade you mentioned. As a general comment, I recommend dedicated ripping and crosscutting blades rather than a combination offering. Eventually you will want multiples of each style so you can keep working when one is out of rotation for cleaning or sharpening.

Regards,
Ryan

*edited for formatting

[Joe Frank]

When making those 'L' shaped push sticks, be aware of the grain if you use solid wood. You don't want to have the handle connected to the bottom with just a bit of horizontal grain. Snap!

I make mine from plywood. Much less chance of it breaking.

Thanks for the tip!


Hello Joe,

I use the 1/8" version of the Freud 24T as my primary ripping blade on the TS3660, and I have been satisfied with it. So long as the blade is clean and my pace is even, I can usually rip 8/4 sugar/rock maple without burning or excessive bogging.

When I do notice the saw starting to struggle, I simply make my cut in two passes rather than one. I have occasionally had issues with deflection when using thin kerfed blades (the saw plate is also thinner), and given the above I chose the heavier option. I also lack the ambition to make and manage any more zero-clearance throat plates than I have to, so I have standardized on 1/8” blades in my shop.

I do not have experience with the Freud Glue Line blade you mentioned. As a general comment, I recommend dedicated ripping and crosscutting blades rather than a combination offering. Eventually you will want multiples of each style so you can keep working when one is out of rotation for cleaning or sharpening.

Regards,
Ryan

*edited for formatting


Thanks for the recommendation I'll check out that blade. I do like using thicker blades for bigger stock, and I've been eyeing a used jointer that's cheap locally:D. I kind of figured this 8/4 I need to cut up may be seeing two cuts.

Just got done sanding a bunch of rust off the table and she's cleaning up good. Still need to get the dremel and wire wheel out for the miter slots :mad:. Fingers crossed they clean up well. Small price to pay I suppose for the good deal I got on her.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Joe, for the saw you’ll need a blade guard and splitter or riding knife.

The design of the saw will dictate whether it can use a riding knife or splitter.

Never run the saw without a guard, period.

If you can’t perform an operation with the guard in place, you’re either using the wrong guard, or the wrong machine.

Guards can either be commercial or shop made.

A good set of push blocks and sticks is also required.....Regards, Rod

[Charles Lent]

The best safety accessory that you can have for using any woodworking power tool is your brain, and you need to completely clear it of any side distractions when using a power tool, especially when using a table saw or router. Always take a moment to imagine what you are about to do before you begin doing it to assure that you will do it safely. Do not be distracted by anything until the cut is complete.

Build yourself an imaginary safety bubble around the cutting area of your tool in your brain that is at least 6" in diameter. If you ever find yourself putting your fingers or any part of your body into or even very close to this imaginary bubble, stop immediately, and find another way to do what is needed. Bigger, longer push stick, clamp the piece in a wooden clamp, use a different tool, etc.

Use push sticks that also hold down your work as well as push it forward. Make these push devices large enough to keep your hands outside the 6" bubble when you use them.

Take special care when cutting material that is less than 1 foot in either dimension. They can easily bind the blade and result in kick-back.

Never trap an off cut between the fence and the blade. The off cut must be able to fall free.

Never use the miter gauge at the same time that you use the fence, unless you have set the fence length to end just before the blade cuts the material. In this case you would be using the fence as a length stop for cross cutting many short pieces. The cut pieces must be able to fall free from the blade as they are cut.

Never make a fence or miter gauge adjustment with the table saw running.

Never reach over a spinning blade. Add an out feed table to support the work as it exits the blade. Stop the saw or go around the side of the saw to reach the cut parts.

Use a push device or piece of scrap to push small off cuts safely away from the blade or stop the saw before attempting to remove them.

Keep the saw table surface clear of everything but the wood being cut, even the part of the table that is on the back side of the fence, except for multiple pieces being staged as the next identical pieces to be cut and do not stack them high. Make certain that all scrap is kept off of the saw table while the saw is being used. Stop the saw to clear the table of scrap.

Never stand with your body directly in line with the saw blade as you use the saw. If a helper is working on the out feed side of the saw they should never be in line with the blade either.

Never use the saw to rip boards unless a splitter or riving knife is in place. Anti kick-back pawls should also be used, if possible.

Avoid setting the blade height higher than necessary for the work being cut. One tooth height above is all that should be necessary.

When doing blind cuts, like DADOs, never allow your hands to pass over the blade area when feeding the work. A thin spot in the work or a blade height adjustment lock failure could raise the blade up through the top surface of the work. I've added a ceiling mounted laser line generator that shows the cut line of my table saw. It extends from past the front and back of my saw and completely across the table. This helps me keep long pieces lined up with the fence and blade, but it's main purpose is to keep me fully aware of where not to put my hands as I feed the work. If the red line is ever on my hands, they are in the wrong place.

My wife and children (now grown) have been taught never to enter my shop if a power tool is running. Always to wait until I acknowledge them or I turn the tool off.


I hope these rules, that I do my best to follow, will help keep you safe too. We humans tend to forget and do erratic things sometimes, so accidents can and do happen. I do my best to live by all of these shop rules, but I too am guilty of a shortcut every now and then because my brain doesn't always keep on track. Fortunately I've never done this at exactly the wrong time. I've been woodworking for over 65 years and have had no serious woodworking related injuries. At the age of 8 my uncle taught me to use a table saw and other woodworking tools safely, mostly stressing his 6" rule for staying away from the sharp spinning thing.


Charley

[Joe Frank]

Wow thanks for the great input guys!

I've been watching a number of videos and am very surprised how much safety info there is now compared to the late 90's when I was actually last using a TS.

Charley what brand is your laser mount? I have one on my craftsman chop saw that I really like.

[Mark Hockenberg]

Joe - Great advise from everyone above. Like Roger, I keep duplicates of all my blades on hand so I can have a sharp blade. I didn't see using the correct blade mentioned above (sorry if i missed this). When I started out I used a combo blade to rip hardwoods. Then the sharpening store told me about a 24 tooth rip blade. Wow - It changed my life.

I also use the Shark Guard - It's a great solution. Just understand that it's a splitter and not a riving knife. With the anti-kickback prawls, blade guard and splitter it offers good safety. And it has added benefit of additional dust collection.

[Joe Frank]

Sharp blades are must for me. I'll be ripping primarily 8/4 walnut to begin with. When I can I'll use my chop saw. I'd like to have a heavier duty band saw but that's down the road.

I'm in talks with the fine gentleman at Shark Guard. He's been very helpful. Even helped sorry to save me some money looking for a guard attachment for my saw.

[Charles Lent]

Sharp blades are must for me. I'll be ripping primarily 8/4 walnut to begin with. When I can I'll use my chop saw. I'd like to have a heavier duty band saw but that's down the road.

I'm in talks with the fine gentleman at Shark Guard. He's been very helpful. Even helped sorry to save me some money looking for a guard attachment for my saw.

Joe,

My laser unit came from Woodline www.woodline.com or call them at 1-800-472-6950, but they stopped selling it several years ago. You could contact them, ask to speak to Wayne. He might still have a few, but not list them in the catalog. They had been in their catalog, but just before I bought mine they had been left out of the new catalog. I called and asked, and he did have a few left, so I ended up buying two, one for myself and one for my son. It's been about 10 years since I did this.

My laser unit is powered by a wall wort type power supply that is plugged into a ceiling outlet near my Unisaw. A small single button remote came with it that I attached to the top of my Unifence casting with a piece of Velcro, so I can change the battery if I ever need to. The remote is for turning the laser on and off. You can mount the laser unit roughly above the saw and then make final adjustments of the laser position and it's line angle to be in line with the saw blade. The laser is in a gimble mount and can be moved/turned easily. Doing this is a bit tricky and hard to get accurate, but some persistence will get it very close. This unit was originally sold as a saw guide and not a safety device. To me, it really isn't accurate enough for that, but I saw the benefit to use it as a safety improvement, and I've been very happy with it for this purpose.

Charley

[Joe Frank]

Thanks Charley! I was actually at the hardware store today looking at a few lasers and how I might mount them. I wouldn't use them as a cutting line but as you say a guide. May be overkill but they're cheap now a days. I do like the the one on my chop saw. Maybe I could mount one on the TS guard? Hmmm

[Charles Lent]

Joe, give Wayne at Woodline a call before you do this. He may still have some left. It was advertised in their catalog as a guide and not a safety device, so it didn't seem to sell well. They pulled it from their catalog with some still on the shelf. The batteries are likely very dead by now, but he may still have one or two that will work with new batteries. I didn't pay the full catalog price for the ones that I bought, because they needed batteries too, but I don't remember how much I paid for them. I like mine a lot, but consider it as a safety device more than a guide. Having the wireless remote on the saw fence makes it easy to turn on and off, so I use it often. If plugged in you will only need a battery for the remote.

Charley

[Joe Frank]

When making those 'L' shaped push sticks, be aware of the grain if you use solid wood. You don't want to have the handle connected to the bottom with just a bit of horizontal grain. Snap!

I make mine from plywood. Much less chance of it breaking.


Hello Joe,

I use the 1/8" version of the Freud 24T (LM72R010) as my primary ripping blade on the TS3660, and I have been satisfied with it. So long as the blade is clean and my pace is even, I can usually rip 8/4 sugar/rock maple without burning or excessive bogging.

When I do notice the saw starting to struggle, I simply make my cut in two passes rather than one. I have occasionally had issues with deflection when using thin kerfed blades (the saw plate is also thinner), and given the above I chose the heavier option. I also lack the ambition to make and manage any more zero-clearance throat plates than I have to, so I have standardized on 1/8” blades in my shop.

I do not have experience with the Freud Glue Line blade you mentioned. As a general comment, I recommend dedicated ripping and crosscutting blades rather than a combination offering. Eventually you will want multiples of each style so you can keep working when one is out of rotation for cleaning or sharpening.

Regards,
Ryan

*edited for formatting


Thanks Charles will do!

[Jon Grider]

Lots of sage advice here, but my 2 cents. You said you have a bandsaw, the few kickbacks I've had on my TS occur when ripping. You can always use your bandsaw to rip a little oversize to relieve internal stress, re-joint, and then use the jointed edge against your TS fence to rip to final dimension.

[Joe Frank]

Thanks for the reply..

The unfortunate thing is my lightweight Ryobi band saw won't cut 8/4.. at least in a days time ha. Been contemplating on getting a 16" band saw used for this purpose and others though.

[Brian Holcombe]

I like a bandsaw for rough prep also,

[Thomas McCurnin]

My assumption is that this saw is a table saw as opposed to a cabinet saw. David is right--my experience with a well used Craftsman and Delta table saw is that once a year I had to adjust the fence, actually loosen the table, and make the miter slots parallel to the blade. The fence follows the table in those models. Cabinet saws are more robust and rarely need any adjustment to the trunion.

Once properly tuned, I do not need any special safety devices.

Of course, I make my own pile of push sticks, buy or make feather boards, make an auxiliary sacrificial fences, auxiliary miter gauges, taper jig etc. I don't let my fingers anywhere near the blade and unplug the saw whenever I change blades or have to get my fingers near the blade. Safety is a habit and there is no substitute (jig or device) which can replace your brain.

[Joe Frank]

Thanks for the tips!

I think it's whats considered a hybrid saw. It's a ridgid ts3660 with a decent sized cast iron table. I just finished cleaning the rust off the bed and am still piecing her together. Not the easiest by yourself ha.. she must be 300+lbs.

Im definitely still doing research on resawing techniques. I may just lower my teeth count on my band saw blade and get a jointer for my 8/4 pieces. Most of these pieces will fit on the bs table.

[Charles Lent]

Joe,

Keep in mind that if you attach a laser to the ceiling it will need to be re-adjusted every time you move your saw. It's best to do this if your saw won't be moved. My Unisaw has only been moved 2 times in the last 17 years, to get other tools moved in or out of my shop. Both times It was necessary to re-adjust the laser on my ceiling to be in line with the saw blade, because I couldn't get the Unisaw back exactly where it had been before.

Charley