Table saw lubricant

[Mark Daily]

Does anyone know of a good lubricant for the trunnions and other moving parts inside a cabinet table saw that won’t attract sawdust? I used PG2000 years ago with mixed results- didn’t seem to lube as well as I thought it should but maybe I wasn’t applying it correctly.

[Chapel Eastland]

Does anyone know of a good lubricant for the trunnions and other moving parts inside a cabinet table saw that won’t attract sawdust? I used PG2000 years ago with mixed results- didn’t seem to lube as well as I thought it should but maybe I wasn’t applying it correctly.

James Hamilton at Stumpy Nubs Journal recently had an interesting video about table saw lubrication. I can find nothing about his conclusion to disagree with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEFVRAKTzKM

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I use NLG2 grease for lubricating saw and shaper components as it what the manual and the manufacturer recommend............Rod.

[Jacob Reverb]

On my worm and rack gears on my TS, I use a spray-on graphite product called "Dryphite" made by Kano (who also make Kroil, the best penetrating oil there is). Kano also makes a moly disulfide spray that sounds interesting, though I've never tried it.

http://www.kanolabs.com/indLub.html#anchor228220

Dryphite is dry, it stays put, it doesn't attract dust, and it works – not as well as ordinary grease (at least not at first), but it also doesn't dry up, or attract dust or turn into a godawful mess that you have to clean out periodically, either.

[Mark Hockenberg]

I take Jacob's approach - I use a spray-on graphite.

However, I'm tempted to try a test with white grease to see how long it takes to get caked with dust and get really crummy. I suspect over the short term it will provide better lubrication.

[Frank Pratt]

As per SawStop advice, I'll use wheel bearing grease. He specifically warned against using any kind of dry lube or wax. They make parts move smoothly, but but do not provide protection against wear. Anything that lubricates well is going to have sawdust stick to it. I clean out the guts of my saw about every 6 or 8 years & in that time, nothing has gotten bound up with gunk.

[Mark Daily]

James Hamilton at Stumpy Nubs Journal recently had an interesting video about table saw lubrication. I can find nothing about his conclusion to disagree with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEFVRAKTzKM
I can’t either- Thanks for the link!

[Mark Daily]

On my worm and rack gears on my TS, I use a spray-on graphite product called "Dryphite" made by Kano (who also make Kroil, the best penetrating oil there is). Kano also makes a moly disulfide spray that sounds interesting, though I've never tried it.

http://www.kanolabs.com/indLub.html#anchor228220

Dryphite is dry, it stays put, it doesn't attract dust, and it works – not as well as ordinary grease (at least not at first), but it also doesn't dry up, or attract dust or turn into a godawful mess that you have to clean out periodically, either.
Thanks for the info Jacob. Sounds like it’s not as messy but either doesn’t last as long or work as well as “grease”.

[Mark Daily]

Thanks guys for all the advice. Looks like the best options are just going to be a little messy.🤓

[Jacob Reverb]

Thanks for the info Jacob. Sounds like it’s not as messy but either doesn’t last as long or work as well as “grease”.

IMO, it works better than grease because it doesn't get pitch and sawdust embedded into it, making, in effect, a mild valve grinding compound (sawdust is abrasive due to the silica in it, one reason carbide saw teeth get dull).

I replaced my arbor bearings at 18 years, and there appeared to still be plenty of graphite coating on the gears. Seems like pitch doesn't stick to the graphite, or maybe it ablates...dunno. It's not as if those gears have any load on them, or get cycled so many times that you need an oil bath like in a gearbox. The main reason for lubricating them, in my view, is to keep them from getting gummed up with pitch and sawdust. My dad's saw got that way late in life, and it became almost impossible to raise/lower or tilt the trunnion.

YMMV

[Mel Fulks]

I like the brush on "Never Seize" stuff. Works for months in a commercial shop with poor air suction. Messy stuff in lots
of places, but no problem on table saws.

[Mark Daily]

IMO, it works better than grease because it doesn't get pitch and sawdust embedded into it, making, in effect, a mild valve grinding compound (sawdust is abrasive due to the silica in it, one reason carbide saw teeth get dull).

I replaced my arbor bearings at 18 years, and there appeared to still be plenty of graphite coating on the gears. Seems like pitch doesn't stick to the graphite, or maybe it ablates...dunno. It's not as if those gears have any load on them, or get cycled so many times that you need an oil bath like in a gearbox. The main reason for lubricating them, in my view, is to keep them from getting gummed up with pitch and sawdust. My dad's saw got that way late in life, and it became almost impossible to raise/lower or tilt the trunnion.

YMMV
Good points- I also thought it was important to keep sawdust out of the gears, even though they don’t move fast or frequently (like an automotive engine). Perhaps grease displaces the sawdust so it can’t get between the gears? I really don’t know.
Seems like whatever you use it’s important that it stays put to do its job.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

I am surprised by the diversity on the answers... for me there was a single answer: machine grease. Actually recommended by all user manuals I have read, also.

Well, perhaps I am wrong and there are more than one correct answer.

[Curt Harms]

Going with the manufacturer's recommendation seems like the safest course of action. For most here - mostly hobbyists - I doubt the raise and tilt mechanisms get so much use that any lube that doesn't dissipate would do nicely. Non-silicone paste wax has been used a for a long time with no reported ill effects that I'm aware of.

[Mel Fulks]

Thanks Osvaldo. I don't recall reading what the mfgs say, but my guess is that none want to offer the messiest stuff,
which is likely the never seize. But single use gloves obviate that concern.

[Mark Daily]

I pulled out the manual for my Grizzly cabinet saw and it says to lubricate the trunnions with “6 or 7 drops of light machine oil” and the worm gears with automotive wheel bearing grease every 12 months.

It also says to remove the top to reach the appropriate areas.:mad: Not fun...

[Charles Lent]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax, applied to the gears and trunnion ways with an old tooth brush. It develops a hard crust that does not attract saw dust like regular greases do. I use a light machine lubricant on shaft bearing surfaces, etc. I've been doing this for over 40 years with no saw problems resulting from using it. Johnson's Paste Wax is also used on my table tops, fence surface, miter slots, etc. but there I let it dry to a haze and then wipe the excess off. It keeps the wood sliding easily and stops rusting, but my shop is kept at 40 - 78 deg F and 50-60% RH, so rusting isn't ever a problem.

Charley

[Derek Cohen]

I use a Teflon (PTFE) spray for wood and steel vise screws. This works very well. I was advised by a pro that his shop has used it for their tablesaw for many years with much success.

The advantage of this is that it dries quickly, and does not attract dust.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark Daily]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax, applied to the gears and trunnion ways with an old tooth brush. It develops a hard crust that does not attract saw dust like regular greases do. I use a light machine lubricant on shaft bearing surfaces, etc. I've been doing this for over 40 years with no saw problems resulting from using it. Johnson's Paste Wax is also used on my table tops, fence surface, miter slots, etc. but there I let it dry to a haze and then wipe the excess off. It keeps the wood sliding easily and stops rusting, but my shop is kept at 40 - 78 deg F and 50-60% RH, so rusting isn't ever a problem.

Charley
I’ve used pure carnuba wax on top to reduce sliding friction but never thought to use it to lube gears, etc. I wouldn’t think it would last long between 2 moving metal gears. How often do you reapply it?

[Mark Daily]

I use a Teflon (PTFE) spray for wood and steel vise screws. This works very well. I was advised by a pro that his shop has used it for their tablesaw for many years with much success.

The advantage of this is that it dries quickly, and does not attract dust.

Regards from Perth

Derek
I’ve used this on my bench vise and a few other places but it felt like it made things harder to move instead of easier. Does it require several applications before it “loosens up”?

[Derek Cohen]

Mark, spray it, let it dry. Done. Slide the parts together a few times. Never experienced any stickiness - did you let it dry first?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bill Dufour]

I wash them out with the acetone/automatic transmission fluid penetrating mix. Let dry overnight then lube with the tri-flow teflon spray. My theory is first wash out old dried grease and sawdust, then apply the new stuff.
Bill D.

[Mark Daily]

Mark, spray it, let it dry. Done. Slide the parts together a few times. Never experienced any stickiness - did you let it dry first?

Regards from Perth

Derek
Thanks- I might not have let it dry completely.

[Mark Daily]

I wash them out with the acetone/automatic transmission fluid penetrating mix. Let dry overnight then lube with the tri-flow teflon spray. My theory is first wash out old dried grease and sawdust, then apply the new stuff.
Bill D.
Bill, I agree that the old stuff should be cleaned out first. No point applying new lube on top of old.😎

[Charles Lent]

I’ve used pure carnuba wax on top to reduce sliding friction but never thought to use it to lube gears, etc. I wouldn’t think it would last long between 2 moving metal gears. How often do you reapply it?

Usually, I apply the Johnson's Paste Wax to my saw's trunnion ways and blade lift gearing about once per year using an old tooth brush and leaving it on thick. I lubricate the other bearing surfaces and pivot points with light machine oil, usually one containing Teflon, at the same time. I re-wax the top and fence whenever it doesn't seem to be slippery enough, or about once per month, letting it dry to a haze, and then wiping the excess off. At times when I'm using the shop heavily I may re-wax the top every week. My Scroll Saws get their tables waxed before every cutting session. The jointer gets it's bed and fence waxed every time I do the table saw top. My drill presses and band saw tables get rewaxed about 2 times per year. The planer, about every time that I use it. All get Johnson's Paste Wax or Butcher's Wax. I can go through a can about every 2-3 years.

Be careful about using auto waxes. You want to avoid anything that contains silicone and most car waxes contain it. Anything that contains silicone is banned from my wood shop because it causes fish eyes in paint and poly finishes and it's nearly impossible to get completely off so the finish goes on properly. Car waxes are kept in my garage on the opposite side of my property from my shop, and I use them only when cleaning and waxing the cars. If you start getting fish eyes (little round spots that won't take finish) on your woodworking projects it's almost a sure sign that there is a spot of silicone there. It soaks in, so it is almost impossible to remove completely. Let it happen once, and you will never forget the problem for the rest of your woodworking lifetime.

Charley

[Mark Daily]

Usually, I apply the Johnson's Paste Wax to my saw's trunnion ways and blade lift gearing about once per year using an old tooth brush and leaving it on thick. I lubricate the other bearing surfaces and pivot points with light machine oil, usually one containing Teflon, at the same time. I re-wax the top and fence whenever it doesn't seem to be slippery enough, or about once per month, letting it dry to a haze, and then wiping the excess off. At times when I'm using the shop heavily I may re-wax the top every week. My Scroll Saws get their tables waxed before every cutting session. The jointer gets it's bed and fence waxed every time I do the table saw top. My drill presses and band saw tables get rewaxed about 2 times per year. The planer, about every time that I use it. All get Johnson's Paste Wax or Butcher's Wax. I can go through a can about every 2-3 years.

Be careful about using auto waxes. You want to avoid anything that contains silicone and most car waxes contain it. Anything that contains silicone is banned from my wood shop because it causes fish eyes in paint and poly finishes and it's nearly impossible to get completely off so the finish goes on properly. Car waxes are kept in my garage on the opposite side of my property from my shop, and I use them only when cleaning and waxing the cars. If you start getting fish eyes (little round spots that won't take finish) on your woodworking projects it's almost a sure sign that there is a spot of silicone there. It soaks in, so it is almost impossible to remove completely. Let it happen once, and you will never forget the problem for the rest of your woodworking lifetime.

Charley
Thanks Charley- good stuff. Silicone is banned from my shop for the same reasons. I use Mothers California Gold carnuba wax because it is pure carnuba wax- no silicone or anything else. I find wax on the top of tool beds works best to reduce sliding friction. I’ve tried sprays like Top Cote, etc., but they don’t work nearly as well.

[Mark Daily]

I like the brush on "Never Seize" stuff. Works for months in a commercial shop with poor air suction. Messy stuff in lots
of places, but no problem on table saws.
Mel, I used to restore old military vehicles and we used that on nuts & bolts to prevent corrosion so they could be removed in the future without difficulty. I’ve never heard of it being used as a lubricant. You’re right about it being messy- almost impossible to remove but never dries.

[Mel Fulks]

Thanks, Mark. A shade tree mechanic friend told me that it's used by some on engine parts in rebuilds to provide lube before oil pumps up. But I have no experience on that stuff. I never miss a chance to read a label ,but whatever I learned from that one is gone. I also use it on the lawn mower blade nut.

[Larry Anderson]

Bottom line on this lengthy thread seems to be, pick one and it will probably be fine.

[Mark Daily]

Bottom line on this lengthy thread seems to be, pick one and it will probably be fine.
Larry, I think you’re right.🤓

[Tom Bender]

The drill press table is one place where I don't want things sliding around.