First Table Saw- Delta 36-725 vs SawStop

[Jacob Atwell]

I am looking to buy my first table saw and I am having a tough time making a decision. I was hoping you guys/gals could maybe give me some input. For a little background, I am pretty new to the hobby. I have done a lot of pretty simple shop projects, and a few fairly simple things for the house. I’m looking to dive a little deeper into the hobby, and would like to purchase a table saw. On one hand I want to buy the SawStop for the safety feature, higher quality saw, and the whole buy once cry once thing. On the other hand I think that maybe I should buy a cheaper saw to make sure I will use it enough to justify spending 3k on the SawStop. Then later on if I feel the need to upgrade I can sell the delta and buy what I want. What do you all think?

[Frank Pratt]

Something to consider is that if you go with a SawStop & then bail on the hobby, they tend to keep their value a lot better than the Delta would.

[Ron Selzer]

Something to consider is that if you go with a SawStop & then bail on the hobby, they tend to keep their value a lot better than the Delta would.
x2
used Delta saws or any table saws don't seem to keep a high resale value around here, what few SawStops I have seen listed seem to move quick with a good resale price
I started with a very cheap saw, fence moved even when clamped down if enough pressure was put against it. had to measure both ends of fence to set it. lack of power, blade actually moved sideways in a hard cut, etc Still made some furniture that I use today 35+ yrs later. Still have all of my fingers and thumbs. Upgraded to a Delta contractors saw, Jet contractor saw was not good quality back then. Finally moved up to a SawStop ICS with all available options at that time 5k+. Forrest rip blade, Forrest Dado set, etc
Life is sure easier now
Do what you can afford, Sawstop was not available when I started and a Unisaw was out of reach financially back then. However a bad cut would have been financially devastating back then also.

[Marc Jeske]

I can't imagine choosing that Delta that looks like it it came from the same factory that makes Transformers children's robot toys and Nike shoes and the bulk of Walmart products....

When for the same $ one can buy a decent roughly 1940's to low 70's Unisaw or PM that actually has some steel in it.

If the budget allows, and you feel more comfortably safer, then jump up to SS.

Marc

[Marc Jeske]

Jacob - A mid century made machine will all told last for generations, one reason is they are very readily repairable.

Current consumer grade stuff as your Delta option is meant to be throwaway.

Not necessarily, but WAY more than the older option.

If you are interested in exploring this post nearest major city location.



Marc

[Robert Chapman]

My rule when buying wood working tools is always by the best that you can afford. In this case buy a Professional grade SawStop. You will not be sorry.

[Jacob Atwell]

I appreciate all the input. I was definitely leaning towards the Sawstop. Just seems a little weird to drop 3000 on something I’m not completely sure I’m going to use on a regular basis.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

For over 40 years, I repaired equipment professionally, electronic, electrical, cryogenic, hydraulic and mechanical. When I started woodworking and later built my shop, the last thing I wanted to do was rebuild used equipment for my hobby. But, that is me.

If your budget will allow, I'd buy the Sawstop for the quality and obvious safety reasons. I agree the SS will hold it's value better in case resale becomes an issue.

[Bob Hinden]

I appreciate all the input. I was definitely leaning towards the Sawstop. Just seems a little weird to drop 3000 on something I’m not completely sure I’m going to use on a regular basis.

Maybe the way to think about is that it will allow you to keep using your fingers that I suspect you do use on a regular basis.

For what it worth, I am thinking of replacing my old Ryobi BT3000 table saw with a Saw Stop.

Bob

[Zac wingert]

I appreciate all the input. I was definitely leaning towards the Sawstop. Just seems a little weird to drop 3000 on something I’m not completely sure I’m going to use on a regular basis.

Look at the grizzly GO771Z. Looks like a much more substantial saw than that delta and it’ll be in the range of $1000 depending on your location. Don’t know what kind of reviews or what the general consensus is, but it’s a cabinet/hybrid type saw.

Also, most people tend to reccomend the rigid contractor saw at HD over the delta at Lowe’s for that class of saw.

I have been using a dewalt jobsite saw because I was in the same situation as you a couple years ago. I’m due for an upgrade soon, but don’t regret getting it to learn on and decide if I’m gonna buy a more expensive machine later.

[Paul F Mills]

When i decided to replace my Skillsaw I looked at all the big brands and finally decided on the SS contractor saw. My decision was based the quality of the saw, but more importantly the safety. I decided the cost of the saw was less important that my fingers.

My dad did major damage to two fingers a few years ago when he got complacent with his table saw.

[Donn Ward]

A few years ago, the mere mention of SawStop often created heated discussions. That said, SawStop has been around long enough to have earned a solid reputation as a quality saw. I have owed one for over ten years, it is an excellent tool.

[Mike Henderson]

The SawStop is a good saw, it can save your fingers, and it has a good (real) riving knife. Think of the additional cost as an insurance policy that you only pay once and if you ever sell it, you'll get a lot of your money back.

I have a SawStop and it saved my thumb once.

Mike

[Jason Ost]

I just recently updated from a Rigid table saw to a 3hp Sawstop. The Rigid has performed flawlessly and I enjoyed using it for 4-5 years. Although now I am really enjoying the power, safety, and smoothness of the Sawstop.

[Rick Potter]

Let me put it this way. My last ride in an ambulance was a couple years ago, ten miles, and cost $1800...not counting the ER, which was lots more. (not related to wood working).

All better cabinet saws are within a few hundred dollars of the SawStop, and it is also a good saw. I am careful, I have all my fingers, but a bad hand injury would severely affect my life. Probably yours too. Talked to the wife about it, and she encouraged me to get it.

Not trying to scare you, I got it for the same reason I quit riding motorcycles years ago. Accidents happen, I have a lot of people depending on me, and it is my way of trying to lessen the odds of a problem. Like Mike said...it's insurance.

Full disclosure: Don't want to be a hypocrite. I kept my Unisaw, use it for dados and such, but 90% of table saw work is now done on SawStop. Thinking of letting the Uni go finally.

[Carl Beckett]

I am not one to always advise the most expensive tool there is.

I also have had a tablesaw injury that required an emergency room surgery. A SawStop would not have prevented it in my case (poor practice on my part was the underlying issue, thankfully no flesh hit the blade).

I started out on relatively inexpensive contractor saw for many years. Just didnt want (or have) the $$ to shell out on something I wasnt sure how long I would use it for.

Having said all of that, in your case, I would recommend the SawStop. Yes partly due to safety. And partly due to resale value. If you stay with the hobby you have a saw that will last you essentially forever (unless you switch some day to a slider). If you do not stay with it and decide to sell the saw, you will be able to recover the difference in cost from a lower grade saw. Used SawStop rarely come up for sale in my area and when they do they sell instantly at pretty high (used) prices.

$.02

[Tony Bilello]

If you had a quality tool, like the Saw Stop, you will enjoy using it and will probably use it more than you think.
If you buy an inferior tool, it will not perform to your expectations and you wont be happy with it and will probably give up woodworking as a hobby. On the other hand, if the tool performs well, your projectx will be fun and you will probably want to do more.

As for an older second hand tool.......... if you are new to woodworking, your new hobby will become tool restoration and not woodworking. You don't know enough to make a good purchase.

I was always a big fan of Delta. I thought their tools were really worth the money. Over the last 5 to 7 years, they are turning out pure junk. Look at the Star Ratings on them - barely 3 stars besides the fact that they look stupid.

Anyway, best of luck in whatever you decide..

[Charlie Hinton]

15 years ago I bought a pretty nice hybrid tablesaw (new) which was well used and well loved, having a saw that worked really well made it a very difficult decision to replace it with a "better" saw.
If it had a riving knife I most likely would have kept it.
I eventually decided to just do it and at the end of January I bought a PCS.
My saw is the 3hp with the 36" fence and I opted for the ICS base.
While I bought the SawStop only for the safety feature I have to say it's just better and more pleasurable to use in every possible way.
If you buy the Delta and it doesn't have issues you will "never" find a reason to replace it, unless you touch the blade.
At that point it's really too late.
I don't see how nyone that can economically list SawStop as an option can choose anything else.
Build quality and customer service matches / exceeds any comparable machine and the stinking thing won't cut your fingers off.

[Rod Sheridan]

If I was going to buy a cabinet saw, it would definitely be a SawStop.

The safety is a no brainer.

That said I would never buy another cabinet saw, I would buy a Hammer K3 or a Minmax, both of which are sliders.

A short stroke slider will do so much more, far more accurately....Regards, Rod

[Ben Rivel]

My first table saw of any type was a SawStop PCS 3HP. I say buy the last tool youre likely to ever need. And if you buy good quality, name brand stuff itll hold it resale better than other options should you decide to bail on the hobby.

[Tom Bender]

Hi Jacob
Where are you? Maybe visiting a shop or two will help you decide. The Sawstop does indeed include a valuable safety feature but a much more valuable one is between the ears in the form of experience.

[Jacob Atwell]

I’m from Tn. My lack of experience is one of the things steering me towards a sawstop. I’m not new to power tools, just to table saws. I know that I have loads to learn about safely using a table saw. I have learned experience and always having your head in the game are the most important things for safety.

[Andrew More]

The SawStop's a great saw, but I feel like we're recommending a Bugatti to somebody who's never driven before. While it's true the SawStop's safety feature will prevent you from cutting your fingers off, it will not prevent you from having issues with kickback, which is almost as dangerous. For that any modern table saw with a riving knife will be as safe, including a Harbor Freight contractor special.

If you're really trying to get a feel for this hobby, the less ventured, the less you'll feel "trapped" by all the money you've put into your tools. It will also allow you to spend your money in other areas, and since you're just starting, I'm going to guess there are a LOT of other areas you could be spending money.

One of the biggest things to look for when picking up a table saw that will not be frustrating is a good fence. Basically you want a T-style fence, often called a Biesemeyer fence.

The Delta has this style fence, a nice cast iron top, and a mobile base. It's going to run on 110V, so you won't need to add a 220V circuit to the garage. It's also available at Lowe's, so if there's a problem you can return it.

While it's true that SawStop won't lose much money if you decide to resell it, the Delta's going to have some decent resale as well. If you buy the SawStop you're guaranteed to spend $250 just getting it shipped to your home, which is half the price of the Delta. Add on a little haggling, and a discount because the SawStop no longer has a warranty, and you're probably going to be out the entire purchase price of the Delta if you sell the SawStop.

Once you've got the Delta, or the Rigid, and you've used it for a bit you'll have a MUCH better idea of how you use a saw, what features you want on it, what you want to avoid, and if you even want to continue with the hobby or not. Just look at some of the options on the SawStop, are you will to try to guess about whether or not you want 1 HP, or 3 HP, which is $430, or almost the entire cost of the Delta? Maybe you really want a sliding table saw?

Plus if you do decide to get the SawStop you'll appreciate it that much more having used another saw, and you'll be more confident that you've spent your money wisely.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I’m from Tn. .

If you are anywhere near Nashville, you are more than welcome to come over and run some wood through my SawStop, change blades etc.. and see how easy it is to use.

[Greg Parrish]

Diverting from the pack here but if I were to go back in time and tell my just-starting-out-self what I know now, here is the list of items I would buy and the order I would buy them in:

1.) Jointer/Planer machine
2.) Solid, Basic workbench with good vises
3.) A few Basic hand tools (see Lie Nielson core tools for example list)
4.) Festool sander with dust extractor
5.) Tracksaw with multi function table
6.) Good quality bandsaw


i know here in the US we always think table saw is the first purchase and center of a shop and I did too. My first purchase was a fully restored 1972 Powermatic 66 table saw. That got me head over heals into the hobby and now I have a full shop even though the Powermatic was replaced with a Felder sliding saw.

However, I really wish I had put the jointer/planer combo machine first on my list. With it and a general purpose handsaw you are set to build about anything. A table saw alone won’t do it unless you can buy perfectly processed wood for every project. Anyway, good luck whatever route you choose. :)

[Rod Sheridan]

Interesting Greg, when I teach seminars I put the jointer/planer and the band saw in the first seminar as I feel that they will allow the participant to maximize the construction of solid wood furniture.

The table saw is highly over rated in my opinion for solid wood fabrication.

Next on the list for machinery is the shaper..............You're absolutely correct about the bench and some basic hand tools as well the Festool sander and extractor.

Of course machinery also requires dust extraction.

The last machine for me is the format saw........Rod.

[Greg Parrish]

Good point. For that jointer planer machine you will need dust extraction but you could throw a harbor freight dust collector cheaply on just that one machine to get by until you one day did a full shop dust collector setup. ;)

But you pointed out why it’s first on my list. If you can’t mill your lumber your limited in what you can do. And if you buy milled lumber you can’t change it or correct it later without the machine yourself. To me it’s the heart of the shop. Especially when combined with a bandsaw. (Unless you want to do everything with hand tools)




Interesting Greg, when I teach seminars I put the jointer/planer and the band saw in the first seminar as I feel that they will allow the participant to maximize the construction of solid wood furniture.

The table saw is highly over rated in my opinion for solid wood fabrication.

Next on the list for machinery is the shaper..............You're absolutely correct about the bench and some basic hand tools as well the Festool sander and extractor.

Of course machinery also requires dust extraction.

The last machine for me is the format saw........Rod.

[Mike Henderson]

Diverting from the pack here but if I were to go back in time and tell my just-starting-out-self what I know now, here is the list of items I would buy and the order I would buy them in:

1.) Jointer/Planer machine
2.) Solid, Basic workbench with good vises
3.) A few Basic hand tools (see Lie Nielson core tools for example list)
4.) Festool sander with dust extractor
5.) Tracksaw with multi function table
6.) Good quality bandsaw


i know here in the US we always think table saw is the first purchase and center of a shop and I did too. My first purchase was a fully restored 1972 Powermatic 66 table saw. That got me head over heals into the hobby and now I have a full shop even though the Powermatic was replaced with a Felder sliding saw.

However, I really wish I had put the jointer/planer combo machine first on my list. With it and a general purpose handsaw you are set to build about anything. A table saw alone won’t do it unless you can buy perfectly processed wood for every project. Anyway, good luck whatever route you choose. :)

I worked for many years without a jointer, processing my stock by hand with hand planes and winding sticks. I agree that having a jointer is really nice and speeds up the process, but I'd be lost without my table saw. For power tools, it was - and still is - first on my list.

Mike

[Jacob Reverb]

If you go the non-SawStop route, I'd recommend finding a used contractor's saw (Delta, Powermatic, Jet, etc) with belt drive and a decent fence. Cast iron wings are also nice to dampen vibration.

As for "table saw first, last or never," in my view, it's the backbone of my wood shop...and often ends up being an assembly surface simply because it MUST be cleaned off frequently in order to keep the wheels of progress rolling! :p

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have a Sawstop ICS and smile every time I flip that switch on. Great saw, NOT considering the brake, which I have managed to not activate yet. If you jump into the SS, I would imagine that you would also be happy with your purchase and continue to use it and learn about making things.
Get the Bies fence, if it's not "standard". It took a bit to dial in, but I use the saw's tape, I don't measure when I cut wood. If I set the saw's fence to 12", I get a 12" inch wide board. Every time. Just one of the many good things about that saw. Good luck in your decision.

[Roger Feeley]

Jacob, as a fellow weekend warrior and Sawstop owner, I would submit that you should go for the quality ESPECIALLY if you are an irregular user. It seems counter-intuitive but bear with me.

If you had a lesser saw and used it every day all day, you would become familiar with the strengths and weaknesses. Your experience would eventually compensate for the weaknesses. But if you use that machine irregularly, you will constantly butt heads with it's quirks and failures. You will be less happy with the outcome and could wind up dropping out altogether.

On the other hand, if you have a high quality machine, it will compensate for your weaknesses. The accuracy, reliability and predictability of the outcome will help you get better at the work instead of getting better at overcoming the machine. Your experience will be better and you will be more likely to continue.

I vote for the Sawstop but I'm biased.

[Doug Dawson]

I vote for the Sawstop but I'm biased.

Plus, it's hard to play the piano if you're missing your fingertips. It would make for an unusual style, perhaps. Same goes for the guitar.

[Jack Frederick]

If you are just starting out you also have to survive the early "learning curve". The first step or goal on that LC is to not bleed and retain all appendages. Things happen faster than you can register, truly! Whichever way you go, get some instruction on the do's and don'ts. The SS is head and shoulders above the competition. That said, rather than buying a new Delta I too suggest that you look for an older Unisaw or PM66. They are great saws and superior to the new ones. A little tlc and you will have a great saw.

[Stan Calow]

The original post was asking about the Delta 36-725 vs a Sawstop. The Delta's a contractor saw, so why not compare it to the perfectly adequate Sawstop contractor saw? For what OP is proposing to use it for, it should be fine. Not everyone needs a Ford 350 (new or old)when a Ranger will do. I just replaced my BT3000 with the SS contractor (for less than half that $3000 ) and I can see it will do everything this hobbyist needs. And no electrical upgrade needed.

[Thomas L. Miller]

Jacob,
I went from a Craftsman contractor saw to a Sawstop ICS. It was a wonderful leap. The next tool(s) I upgraded were my 6" jointer and lunchtop planer with a Hammer A31. After working with it, I began to think the maybe the Europeans were onto something. I'm not going to do anything about my Sawstop, but if I were to do it all over again, I'd certainly pay attention to what Rod Sheridan is suggesting. I've had the opportunity to work with a slider and they are really nice. The quality of the European equipment (Austrian, in the case of Hammer) is really unbeatable. I don't regret my Sawstop one bit, but knowing what I know now I'd be sorely tempted to go European.
Tom

[Jim Dwight]

I had 3 table saws before my SawStop PCS. The last predecessor was a Ryobi BT3100. I built a lot of furniture with my old saws during the 25 years or so I used them. Never got hurt. But I am getting ready to retire and decided to treat myself to a SawStop PCS with 36 inch fence and 1.75 hp motor. I've been surprised by the power, it seems worse than my Ryobi, but also by the accuracy. I may need to switch to thin kerf blades but I also think the saw needs a thicker splitter. One board tripped the overload was only 1 inch oak. But the kerf was closing pinching the blade. Splitter should not have allowed that.

But basically I think the SawStop is a very nice saw. The few projects I've used it for so far have been made easier and came out better than with my previous saws.

I am also a big believer of a track saw. I do not have the shop space to cut up sheet goods on my table saw. But I do not need to. My DeWalt track saw produces great accuracy and saves wrestling with the full sheets. If you have the space and can arrange infeed and outfeed support you can cut up sheets with the table saw and will want the 52 inch rip version. But if you are more space limited, a track saw will provide much better accuracy than a circular saw and guide. Even a Grizzly track saw. But I think the sweet spot is the DeWalt or Makita. I recommend getting a single track long enough to rip a 8 foot sheet although that drives up the price. Makita and Festool really want a lot for a long track. Track saws are inherently safer than many power tools. If your projects will involve a lot of sheet goods, I would get the track saw first. They will not do everything a table saw will and are challenging to use on small pieces but they are very handy. A DeWalt with long and short track is around $600.

[Mark L White]

The original post was asking about the Delta 36-725 vs a Sawstop. The Delta's a contractor saw, so why not compare it to the perfectly adequate Sawstop contractor saw? For what OP is proposing to use it for, it should be fine.

Great suggestion. The Sawstop contractor saw would do everything you need for now, provide the safety benefit, and save a considerable amount of money.

[hugh lonner]

I like the idea of buying once, but only if you know you are committed to the hobby. I got everything super cheap at first and had no regrets even though I eventually upgraded all the machines in my shop. To me a riving knife is crucial safety equipment and the brake is a distant second to that. If you go used I'd suggest you buy a machine with a riving knife (even if you give up on old school build quality).

Learning safe techniques is the most important thing. I did upgrade from a hybrid to the SS and am happy with it, but am still not sure that the SS was a better choice than a slider given that it is almost as expensive. The better planer, and the better bandsaw have more impact on my furniture and were bigger upgrades in terms of joy. The only reason I did give up my much cheaper hybrid saw was because my 9 year old is getting interested and I thought if I ever let her use the saw I'd want a SS or a slider like the Hammer.

That said my neighbor had a TS accident that would not have been an issue if she'd had a SS. She is fine but she and I agree we'd rather spend 3k upfront than spend a year in rehab plus medical bills. I watched a lot of safety videos (ex on the woodworking magazine websites and the wood whisperer etc) before first firing up my original saw and that time spent learning what not to do was a great investment.

[Donald Hofmann]

I have had a Delta Unisaw for 17 years and will probably keep it until I am dead. Last year I bought the DeWalt Jobsite table saw for some jobs that require portability. So far I am impressed with it and I would recommend it for a beginner. I plan on taking it to my vacation home and using it for woodworking there. It get's good reviews as well. It would be a great saw for a beginner

[Chris Hachet]

Something to consider is that if you go with a SawStop & then bail on the hobby, they tend to keep their value a lot better than the Delta would.

This times a thousand.

[Chris Hachet]

Jacob - A mid century made machine will all told last for generations, one reason is they are very readily repairable.

Current consumer grade stuff as your Delta option is meant to be throwaway.

Not necessarily, but WAY more than the older option.

If you are interested in exploring this post nearest major city location.



Marc

The Unisaw first came out in 1939...and several of the 1939 Machines are still in regular use. I have a Shaper (similar to unisaw, Delta HD) that was made in 1941 and it runs like it was brand new. Fellow woodworker from church is still using the same unisaw his dad bought new in 1951. Both of these machines run several times a week.

Ideal would be a late sixties through early 70's machine...before the peace sign era and after the "bullet motor" era. I have a 1973 machine as a daily driver.

Shark guard will provide a lot of safety for your fingers and give excellent dust protection.

If you do buy an older Unisaw take the top off and make sure nothing is broken or obviously missing.

If you are patient unisaws can be had under $500 in good running condition, if you wait good machines come up in the 3-4 hundred dollar range.

I have seen mint condition machines sell for between 700 and 1500. A lot of the time extra blades, Incra mitre gauges, and all sorts of goodies will come with a used tool. I bought a table saw at auction and was surprised to find a whole pallet of blades, many of them brand new, came with the saw...including Dado sets and moulding heads.

[Chris Hachet]

For over 40 years, I repaired equipment professionally, electronic, electrical, cryogenic, hydraulic and mechanical. When I started woodworking and later built my shop, the last thing I wanted to do was rebuild used equipment for my hobby. But, that is me.

If your budget will allow, I'd buy the Sawstop for the quality and obvious safety reasons. I agree the SS will hold it's value better in case resale becomes an issue.

Depends...some of us enjoy that aspect of it. And nothing at all wrong with the saw stop. We have two of them at work. Fantastic saws.

[Chris Hachet]

I just recently updated from a Rigid table saw to a 3hp Sawstop. The Rigid has performed flawlessly and I enjoyed using it for 4-5 years. Although now I am really enjoying the power, safety, and smoothness of the Sawstop.

Stepping up to a cabinet saw right away will give the OP much better results, and he will be more likely to stay with woodworking.

[Chris Hachet]

I’m from Tn. My lack of experience is one of the things steering me towards a sawstop. I’m not new to power tools, just to table saws. I know that I have loads to learn about safely using a table saw. I have learned experience and always having your head in the game are the most important things for safety.

Common sense and reading up on how to use it safely will pay huge dividends.

[Chris Hachet]

Diverting from the pack here but if I were to go back in time and tell my just-starting-out-self what I know now, here is the list of items I would buy and the order I would buy them in:

1.) Jointer/Planer machine
2.) Solid, Basic workbench with good vises
3.) A few Basic hand tools (see Lie Nielson core tools for example list)
4.) Festool sander with dust extractor
5.) Tracksaw with multi function table
6.) Good quality bandsaw


i know here in the US we always think table saw is the first purchase and center of a shop and I did too. My first purchase was a fully restored 1972 Powermatic 66 table saw. That got me head over heals into the hobby and now I have a full shop even though the Powermatic was replaced with a Felder sliding saw.

However, I really wish I had put the jointer/planer combo machine first on my list. With it and a general purpose handsaw you are set to build about anything. A table saw alone won’t do it unless you can buy perfectly processed wood for every project. Anyway, good luck whatever route you choose. :)I would echo especially good bench and developing good hand tool skills.

[Chris Hachet]

Jacob,
I went from a Craftsman contractor saw to a Sawstop ICS. It was a wonderful leap. The next tool(s) I upgraded were my 6" jointer and lunchtop planer with a Hammer A31. After working with it, I began to think the maybe the Europeans were onto something. I'm not going to do anything about my Sawstop, but if I were to do it all over again, I'd certainly pay attention to what Rod Sheridan is suggesting. I've had the opportunity to work with a slider and they are really nice. The quality of the European equipment (Austrian, in the case of Hammer) is really unbeatable. I don't regret my Sawstop one bit, but knowing what I know now I'd be sorely tempted to go European.
Tom

The European stuff is in another whole league. Agree with your sentiments.

[Donald Hofmann]

If he spends all of his money on a high dollar saw when just starting out then it's tough to also buy the rest of the stuff you need- jointer, planer, routers, sanders, etc unless you have an unlimited budget. A table saw by itself isn't real useful.
Learn to use a table saw correctly like millions have did over the past 100 years and you don't need a Saw stop. Use that extra money to buy some other tools. Once you decide that you really like the hobby you can always buy a high dollar cabinet saw.

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/table-saw-injury-numbers-in-perspective/

[lowell holmes]

After cutting my self ripping a board, I made a push stick.
Take a 4" x 12"x 3/4" plywood and cut a 11"x 1/2" piece out of it.
This leaves hook to use when pushing boards through the saw.

https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=AwrCmrC8RPBcCnsA_wYPxQt.;_ylu=X3oDMTB0 N2Noc21lBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNwaXZz?p =table+saw+push+stick&type=we_appfocus523_cr&hspart=pty&hsimp=yhs-pty_weather&param1=20190511&param2=ad3a9c15-a491-4158-84f2-ed3bfe134ad9&param3=weather_~US~appfocus523&param4=%7Bsource%7D-bb9~Chrome~table+saw+push+stick~55C715F67D93AAE313 55AF64D391E454&ei=UTF-8&fr=yhs-pty-pty_weather

[Mike Henderson]

Learn to use a table saw correctly like millions have did over the past 100 years and you don't need a Saw stop. Use that extra money to buy some other tools. Once you decide that you really like the hobby you can always buy a high dollar cabinet saw.

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/table-saw-injury-numbers-in-perspective/

I forgot the exact statistics but it was something like 32,000 of those millions - per year - suffer table saw injuries.

Mike

[Donald Hofmann]

I forgot the exact statistics but it was something like 32,000 of those millions - per year - suffer table saw injuries.

Mike The data on injuries is in the link that I posted for the OP

[Thomas McCurnin]

If you're unsure about this hobby, then go used.

I started 40 years ago with a Sears table saw. I was hooked on the hobby and wore that rascal out in about 10 years, and got Delta table saw, which served me well for another 20 years. I then graduated to a Delta Cabinet Unisaw, which is a solid brand. I use that saw almost daily.

I've not used a saw stop, but they've been around for a while now, and seem to be part of the landscape. They have a great cast iron extension fence with a router table and lift built in for another $1,200.

But to repeat myself, if I was unsure about the hobby, I would hit Craigslist and get a nice 20-30 year old cabinet saw, which you could score for under $1,000. Jet, Powermatic, Delta, Grizzly. Add an outfeed table, aftermarket fence, and some extensions, and you'll have a great cabinet saw.