Grizzly band saw - wood pulling away from fence

[Nick Mazzino]

I have a buddy who recently bought the Grizzly G0531B band saw and says the wood is pulling away from the fence very badly.

He has ensured the wood is square and flat, the fence is square, the blade is square to the top, has tried it with 2 new sharp blades, blade is tight and not wobbling, and the roller bearings are close to the wood but not touching. He said he also called Grizzly and did everything they stated and was set up according to the instructions and what Grizzly customer service said.

Any other thoughts on what could be going wrong or potential fixes?

Thanks,
Nick

[George Yetka]

Is he feeding too fast? The blade will track if not perfect(too loose, guides not setup right, etc)

[Andrew Hughes]

Too me it’s sounds like standard bandsaw drift.
Adjusting the angle of the fence should fix it.
Thats my best guess from a thousand miles away.

[Geoff Crimmins]

It sounds like a blade-drift problem. If the wheels are crowned, then adjusting the tracking should help. Otherwise, adjusting the fence to be parallel with the blade cut should work.

[John TenEyck]

Has he put the blade in the center of the top wheel? That's first. Then adjust the miter slot parallel with the blade and the fence parallel with the miter slot. A blade with 20K psi or more tension that is sharp and has equal set on both sides will cut straight, requiring no more than maybe a very slight adjustment of tilt to the top wheel. If it won't, change blades. If it still won't, it's probably time to check the alignment of the wheels.

The manual for my Grizzly bandsaw is very well written, easy to follow, and should address all of the above.

What blade is on the saw?

John

[Günter VögelBerg]

Try this:

Use a piece of plywood about 4 inches wide by 13 inches long. Draw a parallel line down the middle lengthwise. without using the fence guide the board so it cuts along the line until you are about 2/3 through the length, then carefully hold the board in place while shutting off the saw. Without moving the board clamp it to the top of the saw, then adjust the fence so it is snug with the edge of the board.

[Mike King]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vNdrkmx6ehI

[Wade Lippman]

I've found it to be signal that my blade needs to be replaced. Might not be your problem.

[Mike Kees]

As John said above the miter slot needs to be parallel to the blade. If blades are new and sharp this is what I would check.

[Rod Sheridan]

Has he put the blade in the center of the top wheel? That's first. Then adjust the miter slot parallel with the blade and the fence parallel with the miter slot. A blade with 20K psi or more tension that is sharp and has equal set on both sides will cut straight, requiring no more than maybe a very slight adjustment of tilt to the top wheel. If it won't, change blades. If it still won't, it's probably time to check the alignment of the wheels.

The manual for my Grizzly bandsaw is very well written, easy to follow, and should address all of the above.

What blade is on the saw?

John

The above is the correct way to align the saw.

The fence, once adjusted parallel should never require realignment.....Regards, Rod

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you everyone for the responses. These are very helpful. I have sent this thread over to my buddy. The video is also very helpful.

Thanks again,
Nick

[Pete Staehling]

If you have blade drift, IME, it is either a dull blade, or a poorly adjusted saw. Adjusting the blade to ride properly centered on the upper wheel when at the correct tension with all the guides backed off is a good start. Then set the guides. Fence should be parallel to the miter slot. Don't force the feed too fast.

I have owned several different band saws and never seen drift that wasn't eliminated with a sharp blade and proper setup. Even a blade that is evenly dull on both sides doesn't drift on my saw.

Oh, another issue can be trying to re saw a non flat face. Joint first.

[Rick Potter]

Never saw that video. Great information.

Thanks Mike King.

[Bert McMahan]

I followed this video:

https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU

I watched that several times before setting up my first bandsaw and have had zero drift. It works perfectly well and was easy to follow even as someone who'd never used a bandsaw before.

[Richard Chalmers]

The best way is the Alex Snodgrass way. I have tried to adjust for drift by cutting a sample board and aligning my fence, it works, but the Alex Snodgrass way adjusts the saw correctly. Google him, but the method is to put the gullets of the teeth on the center of the top wheel, he claims if you center the blade it can rock back and forth on the crown. With the gullets on the center the blade is stable, then spring clamp a piece of long thin wood to the blade with a relief cut for the teeth (he uses a nifty magnetic guide). This piece of long thin wood is oriented in the direction of the cut, so this is the path of the cut. Then adjust the table using the miter slot to this long thin wood. I cut logs on a 17" grizzly and re saw straight as an arrow. Try it

[glenn bradley]

If you have blade drift, IME, it is either a dull blade, or a poorly adjusted saw.

This is me as well. Obviously Michael Fortune is no hack so the video supports the school that abides drift. I have been drift-free for so long I do not know that I would be willing to deal with it. I would have to stop and align the machine and live happily ever after. Some folks tolerate snipe on their planer too. Different strokes . . .

[Mike King]

The best way is the Alex Snodgrass way. I have tried to adjust for drift by cutting a sample board and aligning my fence, it works, but the Alex Snodgrass way adjusts the saw correctly. Google him, but the method is to put the gullets of the teeth on the center of the top wheel, he claims if you center the blade it can rock back and forth on the crown. With the gullets on the center the blade is stable, then spring clamp a piece of long thin wood to the blade with a relief cut for the teeth (he uses a nifty magnetic guide). This piece of long thin wood is oriented in the direction of the cut, so this is the path of the cut. Then adjust the table using the miter slot to this long thin wood. I cut logs on a 17" grizzly and re saw straight as an arrow. Try it

just realize that centering the blade works for bandsaws with crowned wheels, but most euro-style bandsaws have flat wheels and the blade should be tracked so that the teeth are just proud of the front of the tire.

Mike

[Rick Potter]

Thanks Mike,

I was wondering about that. It seemed logical, so that is what I did on my Aggie, when I put the 1" blade on it.

Even a blind squirrel gets an acorn now and then.

[Curt Harms]

Something I don't think anyone has mentioned -- is he using the blade that came with the saw? Sometimes the OEM blades are not very good and that's being charitable. I'd try a quality blade before spending too much time on alignment.