can someone please help with a mechanical problem with my Grizzly table saw?

[Günter VögelBerg]

I hope someone can please advise on this. I have spent hours trying to figure it out and am very frustrated. This is for a Grizzly 1023rlwx. The mechanism that raises and lowers the blade suddenly stopped working. There is a threaded post with a smooth section (circled in the pictures) and I am fairly certain that is supposed to fit into the bevel gear that engages the second bevel gear driven by the front handwheel. In the bevel gear there are supposed to be two set screws but only one is present. The parts diagram indicates that there is a hex screw on the bottom of the post and when I stick a hex key in there I can definitely engage it but it just turns and turns and does not seem to tighten or loosed in relation to the post. I can't figure out how to get this mechanism apart without removing the top of the saw and the motor--two adventures I'd rather avoid if I can.

I hope my descriptions of the problem make sense. Perhaps someone who has this model of saw could please take a glance inside theirs and see what this mechanism looks like?

Thanks, as always, for being helpful.
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[David Buchhauser]

Hi Gunter,
I have this exact same model Grizzly table saw. The two bevel gears each have 2 setscrews installed. I checked mine and both bevel gears have 2 setscrews installed and they are tight. The hex head of the setscrews fits a 3mm Allen (Hex) wrench. I would expect that the shafts that the gears are installed onto each have machined flats or equivalent that match up to the locations of the setscrews for the setscrews to seat against. From your photo - it appears as if the shaft has partially come out of the bore in the gear. You will need to remove both setscrews from the bevel gear, push the shaft back down into the bevel gear bore, and rotate the shaft until the 2 flats or recesses line up with the threaded holes for the setscrews. Then install 2 new setscrews. I would suggest using LocTite on the setscrew threads to keep them from coming loose again. I hope this helps.
David

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[David Buchhauser]

The assembly parts diagram you show also indicates that there is a key that fits a keyway in the shaft and in the bevel gear bore. You will need to align the keyway slot in the bevel gear with this key before the shaft will slide back down into the bevel gear.

[Günter VögelBerg]

The problem is that I cannot push the shaft downward into the bevel gear. I just can't get it to move. There is a threaded plate above it and I have loosened that and the shaft has a little play back and forth, so I know it is not seized anywhere. On the horizontal bevel gear one of the set screws was screwed in all the way and the other was missing. I can feel the notch for the key and can tell that it is either absent or has slid upwards with the shaft. The most frustrating thing is that I cannot get under it to see exactly what is going on. It appears that to get the list assembly out I would have to remove the top of the saw and the motor.

Is that an Incra miter gauge bolted to the sliding top? I have the sliding top too and I have not been that impressed with it. How do you like it?

[Lee Schierer]

There is a key (item 55) that should fit into a key way in the miter gear (58). It appears that you shaft has backed out part way and the key may be jammed in the gear hub. There should be two set screws (59) in the bevel gear. The hex bolt (62) is supposed to keep the drive rod (54V2) from backing out of the bevel gear (58). The set screw may have been screwed in too far and is no longer engaged in the threaded hole in the bevel gear. If you can pull the shaft (54V2) back a bit more you should be able slide the bevel gear out of its location. Once you accomplish that you should be able to put things back together. I would suggest that when you do get the hex head screw back in place that you secure it with some blue loctite to insure it doesn't loosen up again and create the same problem.

[Günter VögelBerg]

There is a key (item 55) that should fit into a key way in the miter gear (58). It appears that you shaft has backed out part way and the key may be jammed in the gear hub. There should be two set screws (59) in the bevel gear. The hex bolt (62) is supposed to keep the drive rod (54V2) from backing out of the bevel gear (58). The set screw may have been screwed in too far and is no longer engaged in the threaded hole in the bevel gear. If you can pull the shaft (54V2) back a bit more you should be able slide the bevel gear out of its location. Once you accomplish that you should be able to put things back together. I would suggest that when you do get the hex head screw back in place that you secure it with some blue loctite to insure it doesn't loosen up again and create the same problem.

So the hex screw (62) just spins and does not seem to tighten or loosen, but also does not fall out. How would you suggest I push the shaft up? All I can think of it putting some sort of rod through the horizontal bevel gear and hitting it with a mallet.

Thanks.

[Lee Schierer]

Can you see into the miter gear with a small mirror to see what is going on? Maybe even take a photo so we can see what you see with the mirror.

Resorting to a hammer is not a good idea....

[Günter VögelBerg]

Tonight I will see if my endoscope can get in there.

[David Buchhauser]

So the hex screw (62) just spins and does not seem to tighten or loosen, but also does not fall out. How would you suggest I push the shaft up? All I can think of it putting some sort of rod through the horizontal bevel gear and hitting it with a mallet.

Thanks.

Gunter,

So if the hex retaining screw (62) just spins, then it has backed out so far from the end of the shaft that it is no longer engaged in the threaded hole in the end of the shaft. After you have removed the one remaining set screw from the bevel gear, then you should be able to rotate the shaft by hand until the key lines up with the keyway slot in the bevel gear. As was previously stated, removing the bevel gear should facilitate the removal of that last setscrew. I believe that this all can be accomplished without taking the "top" off the table saw. And - I would definitely not recommend "hitting it with a mallet".

Just out of curiosity - how long have you owned this saw, and did you purchase it new from Grizzly?
David

[Günter VögelBerg]

Gunter,

So if the hex retaining screw (62) just spins, then it has backed out so far from the end of the shaft that it is no longer engaged in the threaded hole in the end of the shaft. After you have removed the one remaining set screw from the bevel gear, then you should be able to rotate the shaft by hand until the key lines up with the keyway slot in the bevel gear. As was previously stated, removing the bevel gear should facilitate the removal of that last setscrew. I believe that this all can be accomplished without taking the "top" off the table saw. And - I would definitely not recommend "hitting it with a mallet".

Just out of curiosity - how long have you owned this saw, and did you purchase it new from Grizzly?
David

Are you saying remove the vertical bevel gear?

I bought it new from Grizzly about 4 years ago.

[David Buchhauser]

Yes - you may need to remove the bevel gear (the one that the vertical shaft has backed out of) in order to facilitate removal of the remaining set screw. If the remaining set screw was screwed in so far that it is no longer engaging in the internal threads of the set screw "hole", then this is most likely the easiest way to remove the setscrew. Actually - I think there are only 4 bolts that attach the table saw cast iron top. It wouldn't be so bad to remove this top if it makes your access much easier. The key here is to align the miter slots to the blade when you reinstall the top.
Buy the way - I am extremely pleased with the sliding attachment. I will give you a better response later this evening.

David

[Günter VögelBerg]

Current task is removing the shaft that goes through the front handwheel and the front bevel gear.

[Günter VögelBerg]

I found the problem--I am missing the key that engages the post with the bevel gear. It is probably in my dust collector with the missing set screw,

$1.75+$9.99 shipping.

[Lee Schierer]

I found the problem--I am missing the key that engages the post with the bevel gear. It is probably in my dust collector with the missing set screw,

$1.75+$9.99 shipping.

I'm glad you found the problem and you will be woodworking again soon.

[David Buchhauser]

Is that an Incra miter gauge bolted to the sliding top? I have the sliding top too and I have not been that impressed with it. How do you like it?

Hi Gunter,
I'm happy to hear that you have solved your problem. Yes - I have the Incra 5000 miter sled attached to the sliding table attachment. I also have a small Fritz & Franz cross-cut jig that rides in the miter/T-slots on the Incra. This has been very handy for cutting small parts. I was unhappy when I first installed the sliding table attachment because it protruded too far beyond the front of the table and made it very difficult to use the saw as a conventional table saw. I solved this problem by moving the sliding table attachment about 11" towards the rear of the saw. Now the front of the slider is almost even with the front of the table saw. The only down-side is that the maximum cross cut is now about 36" (as opposed to the original 48"). For me - this is not a problem as I use a track saw to break down sheet goods and so 36" is more than adequate. I also made a "rip sled" fixture for ripping shorter pieces using the sliding table. I do have the slider mounted so the top surface is about 0.015" higher than the table saw surface. This helps to eliminate dragging of the parts as they move over the table surface. Let me know if you want any more information about my setup.
Thanks,
David

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[Richard Coers]

I found the problem--I am missing the key that engages the post with the bevel gear. It is probably in my dust collector with the missing set screw,

$1.75+$9.99 shipping.
Did you order it? Can't imagine you can't get one at a hardware or farm store.

[Lee Schierer]

Did you order it? Can't imagine you can't get one at a hardware or farm store.

It may be metric, since the set screws are metric.

[Günter VögelBerg]

Did you order it? Can't imagine you can't get one at a hardware or farm store.


I asked a friend of mine who works at an industrial supply shop if she had any and she said they only sell the bar stock to make them, which I thought was a bit odd. There probably is a local hardware store that has them, but the time it would likely take me to find one is worth more than ten bucks.

They are metric. 5x5x15.

Speaking of metric...Why is it that Grizzly machines use half their components in metric and half in imperial? I don't care which one they use, but I wish they would pick one and stick to it.

Also, the imperial system is weird, but that topic has been beat to death.

[Günter VögelBerg]

Hi Gunter,
I'm happy to hear that you have solved your problem. Yes - I have the Incra 5000 miter sled attached to the sliding table attachment. I also have a small Fritz & Franz cross-cut jig that rides in the miter/T-slots on the Incra. This has been very handy for cutting small parts. I was unhappy when I first installed the sliding table attachment because it protruded too far beyond the front of the table and made it very difficult to use the saw as a conventional table saw. I solved this problem by moving the sliding table attachment about 11" towards the rear of the saw. Now the front of the slider is almost even with the front of the table saw. The only down-side is that the maximum cross cut is now about 36" (as opposed to the original 48"). For me - this is not a problem as I use a track saw to break down sheet goods and so 36" is more than adequate. I also made a "rip sled" fixture for ripping shorter pieces using the sliding table. I do have the slider mounted so the top surface is about 0.015" higher than the table saw surface. This helps to eliminate dragging of the parts as they move over the table surface. Let me know if you want any more information about my setup.
Thanks,
David

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Did you have to drill more holes to move it forwards?

Like you, the thing I have the most trouble with using the slider is how awkward it can be to stand in front of the saw while not actually using the slider. It forces me to either stand directly in the path of any kickback to far to the left.

Do you have trouble getting it to reset to 90 degrees accurately?

When i sold my last saw I kept the incra miter gauge and still use it for small parts.

[David Buchhauser]

Did you have to drill more holes to move it forwards?

Like you, the thing I have the most trouble with using the slider is how awkward it can be to stand in front of the saw while not actually using the slider. It forces me to either stand directly in the path of any kickback to far to the left.

Do you have trouble getting it to reset to 90 degrees accurately?

When i sold my last saw I kept the incra miter gauge and still use it for small parts.

Hi Gunter,

The three existing mounting holes are 11" apart, so I drilled one new 3/8" diameter hole and shifted the slider to the rear of the saw by 11" (see photos).
Otherwise the slider would have been protruding into the area where I like to stand when using the saw in a conventional manner.

It is not possible (in my opinion) to reset the slider miter fence to 90 degrees (or any other angle) using the miter gauge. I use a large square to set the miter fence at 90 degrees to the blade every time I reinstall the fence. I actually have a precision bar that fits into the table saw miter slot. Since the saw blade is parallel to the miter slot (I have checked this - it is indeed parallel within 0.002" to the blade) it is easier for me to use the precision bar. The bar is also longer than the blade so it is easier to get an accurate setting.

So after I moved the slider to the rear by the 11", it is now a joy to use - either as a slider or in the conventional manner.

Like you - I was surprised that on this table saw some of the bolts have SAE threads and some are Metric. This does not bother me as long as I know which bolts are which.

Thanks,
David





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[glenn bradley]

I found the problem--I am missing the key that engages the post with the bevel gear. It is probably in my dust collector with the missing set screw,

$1.75+$9.99 shipping.

Yay!!! High five on that one.

[Tom Bender]

Keys are needed in many different lengths so key stock is available. If I had the right size (unfortunately not) I'd cut one off and mail it today, free to a Creeker.

[David Buchhauser]

Tim,
What you have posted is I believe an inappropriate link. SMC is probably not the place for your SPAM!! Hopefully one of the moderators will take down your post.
David

[Günter VögelBerg]

Thanks to all, the saw is again functional.

[David Buchhauser]

Thanks to all, the saw is again functional.
Great to hear that Gunter!! That's at great table saw you have there. Thanks for the update.
David

[David Buchhauser]

By the way - it's only 1:15 in Tucson, AZ. So for us - this is still Monday night.

[Terence Tourangeau]

Love your setup with the small rip fence! I bought a Frankenstein version of the saw from another forum member.... It has the sliding table and it got moved ahead as yours is. He put the whole thing on amobile base which is handy.

I got an incra fence and paired it with an old V120 I wasn't using. I made some track stock out of maple that fits snugly into the track on the sliding table, and that's all I currently need to keep it square with the blade when it goes on and off.

What I plan to do, though, is copy the hammer k3 flip stop. It's an ingenious solution to this problem... I just need to get some aluminum to make it with!

The previous owner of my saw put in a router table past the blade to use with the sliding table, but I will probably split this off into its own table. Then I will probably make a similar sled to yours to permit cutting off close to the blade. It's not as elegant as a true slider but I'm giving up on that dream for now!

[David Buchhauser]

Love your setup with the small rip fence! I bought a Frankenstein version of the saw from another forum member.... It has the sliding table and it got moved ahead as yours is. He put the whole thing on amobile base which is handy.



Thanks Terence! I like my saw much better with the slider moved forward. When I use the Incra miter 5000 - the stock miter bar is riding in the table saw miter slot to keep it aligned. My small rip jig has a bar that locates in the slider miter slot. I'd love to see some pictures of your setup.
David

[Günter VögelBerg]

so I moved the slider forward and have been using it like that for a couple of weeks and I think I am going to move it back. The reason I don't like it forward is that I have to remove the miter fence more often when making rip cuts.

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Gunter,
The main reason I moved my slider forward is so that I could stand in the traditional position when using the saw for conventional ripping of longer boards.
David

[Günter VögelBerg]

Hi Gunter,
The main reason I moved my slider forward is so that I could stand in the traditional position when using the saw for conventional ripping of longer boards.
David

Yeah, that is nice. I just don't like taking the miter fence on and off each time. It would be different if it were easier to remove, but I have to fumble around with a hex key. I don't know--both approaches have their merits. Really, I think the slider attachment is sort of asking the saw to do more than a saw with the footprint is really intended to do, so there will be some inherent compromises.

In my dream shop I would have this. Until then the grizzly will suffice.
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[David Buchhauser]

Yeah, that is nice. I just don't like taking the miter fence on and off each time. It would be different if it were easier to remove, but I have to fumble around with a hex key. I don't know--both approaches have their merits. Really, I think the slider attachment is sort of asking the saw to do more than a saw with the footprint is really intended to do, so there will be some inherent compromises.

In my dream shop I would have this. Until then the grizzly will suffice.
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Hi Gunter,
I can't tell from the picture - exactly what kind of saw it? Is it a slider or conventional?

My Grizzly slider has no hex keys, only knurled handles.
I don't take if off very much. I have another table saw for ripping longer boards. It's an old Craftsman from 1983.
Thanks,
David

[Günter VögelBerg]

Hi Gunter,
I can't tell from the picture - exactly what kind of saw it? Is it a slider or conventional?

My Grizzly slider has no hex keys, only knurled handles.
I don't take if off very much. I have another table saw for ripping longer boards. It's an old Craftsman from 1983.
Thanks,
David

It is a Northfield sliding table saw.

I find that I have to always tighten and loosen the set screw in front of the t-track piece of the miter gauge, and if I do not I never get back to 90. Maybe I am missing something.

[David Buchhauser]

Do you mean the setscrew in the miter bar?

[Günter VögelBerg]

I think so. I'll take a photo tomorrow.

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Gunter,
Here are some photos of my Grizzly slider miter fence. I loosen the large knurled knobs (handles) to remove or adjust it. It does have several setscrews in the front of the miter bar, but I don't think that I have to remove or adjust these to remove/replace the miter fence. Are these the same set screws that yours has?
David


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