Chainsaws and Oil Leaking

[robert wiggins]

Does you chainsaw leak oil when in storage? My saw in question is a CS310 Echo and leaks oil even after loosening the filler cap as recommended by the retailer. The only way I see to remedy the situation is to drain the tank. Hopefully someone has a simpler idea. No I won't trade it for a Steel.

[roger wiegand]

My Husky leaks when standing upright, I lay it on its side (filler caps up) and it's fine.

[Jim Chan]

Interesting, didn't think other people had this problem too. I have a stihl 660 I use for slab milling hanging above my jointer, and it sometimes leaves little drips of bar oil on my jointer bed. My lazy solution was just to stick an oil pan on the jointer when I'm not using it, but draining it into an empty oil bottle might be a better.

[robert wiggins]

My Husky leaks when standing upright, I lay it on its side (filler caps up) and it's fine.

I failed to mention I tried filler caps up without success. I suppose I can try caps up and oil cap remaining loose next. If that isn't successful maybe suspend it to determine from which end or where it's leaking. The dealer mentioned bring it back to have it checked and I may have to do that.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

None of my Stihls leak oil. And I wouldn't trade them for an Echo.
Just a question, are you using "bar" oil? I believe that bar oi is stickier and may not leak as bad. I had a C-man saw that leaked oil all the time. Can't recall which side, but it also didn't leak if I put it on it's side.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

My 42 year old McCulloch leaks but very little via the chain lubricator.

[robert wiggins]

Whatever oil the dealer put in is the oil that's in it.

[Wayne Lomman]

My Stihl 066 leaks a coin sized spot if I don't use it for a few months. I don't see it as a problem as it shows the oil will flow when I need it. I also forgive it as it is about 15 years old and was a commercial logger's saw before I bought it.

The comment about oil grade is important. Bar oil is stickier and leaks less and uses less so is the cheapest to use overall. Cheers

[Tom M King]

Store it on its side with the filler cap up. I have one Echo saw, and it leaks out of the breather hole in the oil cap.

[Robert Hayward]

I have a little Echo CS-301 for trimming branches that leaks so much bar oil I store the saw in an empty five gallon bucket. This is not the oil filler cap leaking. Rather the bar oiler oozes oil when the saw is just sitting there not even running. Empty the oil tank or mop up the oil in the bottom of the bucket.

[Zac wingert]

I have a stihl, it has always leaked a little bit of oil while in storage. It’s not really a problem, my craftsman weedwacker and pressure washer both occasionally leak whatever little gas I leave in them, which is a problem.

[Robert Hayward]

My 42 year old McCulloch leaks but very little via the chain lubricator.

I had a McCulloch PM610 for almost that long. Finally broke a part I could not source and gave the saw to a young guy that wanted the motor for a scooter. That saw was a beast.

[robert wiggins]

I have a stihl, it has always leaked a little bit of oil while in storage. It’s not really a problem, my craftsman weedwacker and pressure washer both occasionally leak whatever little gas I leave in them, which is a problem.

At least they'll always have fresh gas.

[Stan Calow]

Yep. My Poulan leaks too, unless you store it on its side.

[Terry Wawro]

My Echo leaks oil. I thought mine was just defective or something. Guess I'm not the only one.

[Jared Sankovich]

I have a stihl, alpina, and a couple dolmars that leak some bar oil. The only saw i have that does not leak some oil is a dolmar i machined the oil pump connections to more positively seal.

[Paul F Mills]

I have a Stihl 250 and 361. The 250 always leaks, the 361 is always clean. The shop says it is not abnormal.

[Warren Wilson]

LOL: I have both a Stihl and an Echo. They both leak. I just store them on a piece of cardboard that absorbs most of the oil. I do the same when transporting them.

[Jacob Reverb]

Most of my chainsaws leak at least a little oil in storage. The ones that don't leak (MS361) also don't provide enough oil to the bar in use.

I'd rather have the former than the latter.

I put cardboard under them when I store them, and replace it when it gets saturated.

[Pete Staehling]

Yes, mine have all leaked. The best solution is to store them in a way that the leakage doesn't damage anything and then forget it. It really isn't worth any further worry IMO.

[Tom M King]

Mine all leak also, but the Stihl's leak, and oil runs out of the Echo. The only Echo I have is a little top handled, climbing saw. They all set on scraps of plywood in the shop building that they stay in.

[Ted Calver]

My Stihl's all leak, so I keep each one sitting on an old cookie sheet so the floor dosen't get oiled. You just have to check each one before use to top off the oil.

[Ole Anderson]

My 018 leaks enough that I put several layers of paper towel under it in it's case. My 290, not so much.

[Bill Dufour]

They leak because they oil slowly siphons out. You have to set them so the oil jet is above the oil tank. My brother hangs his from the handle, nose down, over a 5 gallon bucket.

[William A Johnston]

My Stihl leaks and in fact I've never owned a chainsaw that didn't leak. I think its just par for the course.

Bill

[Von Bickley]

Get a plastic container that is big enough to store it in.

[Jim Andrew]

My ms250 started leaking the oil out, dropped it off for repair and they replaced the lid. Just noticed my newest ms291 is losing oil, so time for a new cap.

[Lud martinson]

Not familiar with echos but, in many cases there should be a screw governing the flow of bar oil. Utube may be helpful with something like that. I have to agree with others that knowing your chain is being lubed versus not is a good thing. I also agree that storing it on a piece of plywood or similar. If its draining oil faster than the occasional drip then the solution may be taking it into a shop.

[Alan Lightstone]

My EGO leaks.

No one owning up to owning a Martha Stewart Living chainsaw???!!!???:rolleyes::cool::eek:

[William Young]

I have a Makita electric and it drips bar oil from the oiler when I hang it by the handle. I queried Makita and they said it was normal. So, I just drain the oil when I'm done with it. Aggravating but better than cleaning up a mess. I always wondered if others had the same problem.

[John K Jordan]

I suspect most dealers will use the cheapest bar oil possible.

My saws leak oil if I use the cheap stuff from Northern Tool - it's runnier. They don't leak when I use the good stuff from Stihl - it's thicker.

They do leak less when I lay them on the side, even with the cheap oil. If I'm concerned about oil spots I sent the saw on a tray.

JKJ

[Joe Rogers]

My Husky leaks. Don’t care as I figure the bar oiler is working therefore saving me wear on the bar and chain.
Joe

[John K Jordan]

My Husky leaks. Don’t care as I figure the bar oiler is working therefore saving me wear on the bar and chain.
Joe

A functioning oiler is something some people I know seem to never think about. On my Stihl saws running through a tank of gas will use up most of the oil in the oil tank. If not, the oiler may be clogged with sawdust or something. I had to clean it out once on one saw, probably clogged from sawdust I let drop into the tank when filling.

Also, I rarely see anyone check the chain lubrication as Stihl recommends: aim the tip of the bar towards something that can show oil spray then rev the engine and see if the chain throws off a little oil. I do this every time I fill the tanks.

Another thing they recommend is flipping the bar every time the chain needs sharpening to even out the wear.

JKJ

[robert wiggins]

I've found a paint filter from the NAPA store does well at filtering most harmful debris when adding gas or oil. The poor ole chain saw needs all the help it can get.

[Tom M King]

If I flipped the bar every time I sharpen a chain, I'd be flipping it multiple times a day. I'd rather keep it sharp with 1 or 2 strokes per tooth often, than wait until it needs 5 or 7 strokes. That way, it's always sharp.

I always look in my fuel can before I put the next mix in it. I don't remember ever seeing anything in it, but I do wipe off around the fuel cap on the saw before I open it. It looks to me like if sawdust is getting in the saw's tank, that it's most likely not coming our of the fuel jug.

[John K Jordan]

If I flipped the bar every time I sharpen a chain, I'd be flipping it multiple times a day. I'd rather keep it sharp with 1 or 2 strokes per tooth often, than wait until it needs 5 or 7 strokes. That way, it's always sharp.

I always look in my fuel can before I put the next mix in it. I don't remember ever seeing anything in it, but I do wipe off around the fuel cap on the saw before I open it. It looks to me like if sawdust is getting in the saw's tank, that it's most likely not coming our of the fuel jug.

I think the sawdust comes from not cleaning around the cap on the oil tank, from sticky oil, not from the jug of oil. Wiping it off before adding oil is good. It doesn't seem to stick around the fuel tank cap.

I used to sharpen like you do but I'm usually using my saws around the farm and not a lot at once I usually just take the saw back to the shop to the sharpener when it gets dull. Gives my old back a rest too.

So how often do you flip the bar?

[Tom M King]

I don't have any set time to flip the bar. Probably just when I put a new chain on. Since i sharpen often, sometimes every tank fill-up, but mostly every other fill-up, I'm also tightening the bar often. I expect keeping the chain tight slows bar wear.

I don't like the chain loose, so when a new chain goes on, if there is any slop in the slot, I'll close it up with a bar rail tightener. Like this, but I think mine is an Oregon-don't remember.
https://www.baileysonline.com/woodlandpro-chainsaw-bar-rail-closer-w-10001.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw7_rlBRBaEiwAc23rhh0fMkAgE SoI-2KlIGhk5lfbGd9zalgmQ3VtH6XMZfiQpNAeDnuvlRoCeZ4QAvD _BwE

We have a fair amount of timberland, so saws gets used for days at the time sometimes, as well as keeping up the trails, and farm here too.

[John K Jordan]

I don't like the chain loose, so when a new chain goes on, if there is any slop in the slot, I'll close it up with a bar rail tightener. Like this, but I think mine is an Oregon-don't remember.
https://www.baileysonline.com/woodlandpro-chainsaw-bar-rail-closer-w-10001.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw7_rlBRBaEiwAc23rhh0fMkAgE SoI-2KlIGhk5lfbGd9zalgmQ3VtH6XMZfiQpNAeDnuvlRoCeZ4QAvD _BwE

I use the same bar slot tightener, Bailey's is my friend! I buy my chains, chain/bar combos, and things like pruning saws there.

For those who may not know to check the tightness, if it gets sloppy the straightness of the cut can be affected and the bar can wear more quickly.

[Tom M King]

Bailey's used to know me by name. I think another generation is running things now though.

[Jared Sankovich]

A functioning oiler is something some people I know seem to never think about. On my Stihl saws running through a tank of gas will use up most of the oil in the oil tank. If not, the oiler may be clogged with sawdust or something. I had to clean it out once on one saw, probably clogged from sawdust I let drop into the tank when filling.

Also, I rarely see anyone check the chain lubrication as Stihl recommends: aim the tip of the bar towards something that can show oil spray then rev the engine and see if the chain throws off a little oil. I do this every time I fill the tanks.

Another thing they recommend is flipping the bar every time the chain needs sharpening to even out the wear.

JKJ

I think most people who run saws with any regularity are better at checking chain lubrication. I know i was always taught to verify with the clean log/rev saw method. Though i also started with a manual oiler on my dads old Remington saw.

I was concerned enough about oil, i machined the first dolmar 7900 series pump for more flow on 30"+ bars.
408518
408519

[Tom M King]

I have a very old electric chainsaw that I use for carving into framing timbers on old houses, when there are parts to remove before adding good wood back in. I run the bar, and chain dry because I don't want to sling oil in these houses.

I just figured the bar and chain are disposable, and just a cost of getting the job done. I've been surprised how long the bar, and chain last. They last way longer than you might think they would. Of course, the chain does a lot of stretching to start with, but one will cut dry wood for a long time.

Slinging is checked with the power saws, after fill-up, and sharpening.