Recommendation: 36 or 48" rule?

[Ray Newman]

Colleagues: been wanting/needing either a 36 or 48" rigid steel 4R rule for awhile.

Are PEC Tools rules worth the money?

Any others that I should consider?

[Mike Henderson]

I can say that PEC makes good tools, but I have no experience with their 36 or 48 rules.

You often see PEC blems on eBay. I've bought some and had no problems.

Mike

[Bill Space]

Your thread title is generic, but the body of your post is specific...to one manufacturer/brand. :confused:

In any case, I have a good 48" straight edge, and would not trade it for a 36" (plus a cash difference) for sure!

Get a 48". Even longer (if accurate enough) may be better in the long run. For me the 48" has worked well...

Bill

[Brian Holcombe]

PEC, Starrett, Mitutoyo, Brown and Sharp, Chris Vesper, Matsui,

[Jim Becker]

I have the steel rules from Lee Valley (both imperial and metric on them which is great since I'm lately work in metric at this point) and also picked up a 40" version from Woodcraft (their house brand) which is also marked in both systems. These rules seem to be accurate and have worked well for me. But yes, there are premium brands out there, too...

[Orlando Gonzalez]

I have PEC in 6" and 12" lengths and they are good. But my go to rules are Starrett (I have from 6" all the way to 48"). I would opt for the 48" length since it will also capture the 36"+ measurement as well.

[Mike Cutler]

I'd buy a 48" before a 36" as long as the graduations were the same.
I have a 72" Starrett machine rule. Would not want to be without it.

[Brian Tymchak]

I'd buy a 48" before a 36" as long as the graduations were the same.


+1. Lots of 4' situations that I can think of. If I were going to make the investment in a 36", then going the extra for 48" is a worthwhile upgrade in my mind.

[michael langman]

I read in Jim Tolpins book on "Measure Twice Cut Once", how he made some shop rules. I followed his advice and made a nice 4 foot rule out of 3/4" aluminum angle iron from tractor supply. The aluminum was $6.00, and straight as an arrow.
I bought the Starrett Measure Stix with imperial numbers and 1/32" the first foot. Stuck it to one side of the angle iron, and now have a nice 4' rule that sits up so you can see it better and works well.
Total cost $13.00

[jim mills]

I have a series of rulers hanging on the wall. I always reach for the shortest one capable of the task at hand.

[Ben Rivel]

Just to throw it out there, have you considered the Woodpeckers aluminum rules?

[Nick Shattuck]

I've been searching for a ~48" rule that has 1/64 indications & is easy to read. My 12" Starrett combo square (non-chrome) rule is not easy to read, so a 48" version of that would be useless to me.

EDIT: Ha! Found one with the right search! https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/91099044

[Ray Newman]

Nick Shattuck: I saw that rule yesterday evening. However, the country of origin is India and based on my and others' negative experiences with Indian tools I will continue the search.

[Al Launier]

I've had a 48" L.S. Starrett steel rule in Satin-Chrome finish for 50+ years. Couldn't be happier with it. NO: C404R. It has 1/64", 1/32", 1/16" & 1/8" graduations.

Being curious I searched the web & foundt https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-C404R-48-SLC-Graduations-Thickness/dp/B003XU7C4G/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=starrett+No.+C404R-48&qid=1555854943&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0. I had no idea they sold for $670.84, but you do get free shipping. :D

I think I'll leave this as a legacy item. ;)

[Ron Selzer]

have a 48" rule and use the 36" way more often,
this maybe because the 36 is a centering rule

[James Biddle]

I never use a rule longer than 24" and reach for a tape measure for longer. Do you guys use the longer rules enough where you reach for them over a tape?

[Bill Space]

I've been searching for a ~48" rule that has 1/64 indications & is easy to read. My 12" Starrett combo square (non-chrome) rule is not easy to read, so a 48" version of that would be useless to me.

EDIT: Ha! Found one with the right search! https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/91099044

My 4' straight edge is a Starret #387. Very accurate (0.0002" per foot) and would be very expensive to replace.

BUT the smallest division is 1/32". Frankly for wood working I can't imagine the need for a 1/64 division.

Can someone enlighten me why such small divisions would be desirable?

Bill

[Bill Space]

I never use a rule longer than 24" and reach for a tape measure for longer. Do you guys use the longer rules enough where you reach for them over a tape?

I use my 4' straight edge for setting up and adjusting my tools. For example jointer tables. Invaluable for that.

If I want a good fit, I will use two sticks to take the measurement and never a tape measure.

I may use my 4' straight edge on my workbench, since it is super accurate, as a reference to take a measurement of something, but never use it for taking an actual measurement other than of what I can bring to it.

Bill

[Jim Becker]

I never use a rule longer than 24" and reach for a tape measure for longer. Do you guys use the longer rules enough where you reach for them over a tape?
I use my 36" and 40" rule quite a bit. It's "finer" than the tape measure and doesn't do weird bendy things when I least can afford the third hand to do what I'm doing. :D I do use a tape measure, but generally only when it's the "better tool" for the job rather than just because something is a certain size. I also like the flexible, yet rigid feel of the thin steel rules, too.

[Brian Holcombe]

I can avoid measuring if I just transfer marks, so often enough I just use my saw’s tape (which is very accurate) to set overall dimensions and a lot of other things work off of existing.

[Alan Lightstone]

Just to throw it out there, have you considered the Woodpeckers aluminum rules?

That's what I use. In a variety of sizes. Been very happy with them.

[Ben Rivel]

That's what I use. In a variety of sizes. Been very happy with them.
Likewise. Believe I have all the sizes except for the 6" because they didnt make it compatible with their Hook Stop.

[Jim Becker]

I can avoid measuring if I just transfer marks, so often enough I just use my saw’s tape (which is very accurate) to set overall dimensions and a lot of other things work off of existing.
I also make and use story sticks for certain kinds of projects so I only need to "measure twice" on the story stick and then just transfer the (presumably... ;) ) accurate marks to the workpiece(s).

[Brian Holcombe]

I also make and use story sticks for certain kinds of projects so I only need to "measure twice" on the story stick and then just transfer the (presumably... ;) ) accurate marks to the workpiece(s).

Definitely a handy method, I used this recently on a countertop project which could not be fitted in place due to the finish applied. Worked well and helped reduce the amount of time spent wondering if I measured to the right or left of the tick mark on the steel square.

I’ve been considering adding a digital aspect to my Glide Stop for purposes of it acting as a comparator.

Also I’ve been thinking to start using multiple methods and compare results on more critical parts that require odd transfers (can’t directly transfer).

[Nick Shattuck]

My 4' straight edge is a Starret #387. Very accurate (0.0002" per foot) and would be very expensive to replace.

BUT the smallest division is 1/32". Frankly for wood working I can't imagine the need for a 1/64 division.

Can someone enlighten me why such small divisions would be desirable?

Bill

It's probably not required, it's just the metrologist in me wanting increased resolution of measurement. 1/32 would be fine for anything I do.

[Bradley Gray]

I carry a folding rule in my back pocket every day. 7"-72" plus inside measures to 80". if i need a more accurate measurement I make a layout stick and bypass increments entirely.

[Al Launier]

I agree that 1/32" is adequate for most woodworking projects, but at the hobbyist size level 1/32" shows up like a sore thumb. I have a couple of Starrett 12" scales that I use for my hobbyist projects where 1/64" is as much error as I'm willing to accept, and then it must be hidden. Having been a Tool & Die Maker in my earlier work days has obviously left me with an anal desire for accuracy & precision. ;)

[Prashun Patel]

I have a 36 and a 48. I reach for my 36” about 10x more.

We want a kitchen table that can seat 20 people so that once a year at thanksgiving, everyone fits.

[Chapel Eastland]

I read in Jim Tolpins book on "Measure Twice Cut Once", how he made some shop rules. I followed his advice and made a nice 4 foot rule out of 3/4" aluminum angle iron from tractor supply. The aluminum was $6.00, and straight as an arrow.
I bought the Starrett Measure Stix with imperial numbers and 1/32" the first foot. Stuck it to one side of the angle iron, and now have a nice 4' rule that sits up so you can see it better and works well.
Total cost $13.00

After seeing your post I ordered the Starrett Measure Stix and bought a "straight" aluminum angle at Home Depot. I also ordered three of Tolpin's books, including the one you referenced.

Thanks for your post.

[Mel Fulks]

The Harbor Freight 4 foot aluminum rules are impressively straight. I store -tested with two. Then bought more.

[Ray Newman]

Colleagues: thanks for the information. Just need to decide exactly how much money I want to spend and how much use at age 73 years I will get out of it if I go "high end". Again, thanks.

[Chapel Eastland]

You're 73. Who cares how many years you get out of it? Buy what you want, enjoy it, and don't worry about it.

[Mark Wooden]

I bought a Rabone Chesterman 1 meter/39" rule, 20 or more years ago. Nothing fancy, flexible, easy to read. That, paired with the 12",16" & 24" scales from my squares (and they all agree with each other) has been really all I've ever needed.

[Anuj Prateek]

I have 36" and 48" - aluminum ones from HD.
I have 6/12/18 from Mitutoyo and a blem 24" PEC. Got Mitutoyo rules from zoro.com with their 20-25% off promotion long back. PEC came from eBay.

IMHO PEC is not at par with Mitutoyo. If you are buying new PEC then spend a little more and buy Mitutoyo or similar.

If buying blem PEC then buy from reputable dealer on eBay who would accept returns. I have had good experience with Taylor Tools. Do read the rule thickness. There is a flexible and a rigid version of the rule available. I like rigid ones.

Between 36" and 48", I would suggest 36". I find 48" little too big, so don't use it until and unless needed. If these are meant for one off use then save money and get cheap aluminum ones - even Starrett makes some for $20.

[Mike Cutler]

I never use a rule longer than 24" and reach for a tape measure for longer. Do you guys use the longer rules enough where you reach for them over a tape?

All the time. For every project I do, my Starrett is out on the bench.
I use it to set my fences, mark layouts, and being made of steel it's fairly heavy and can be used as an edge guide for routers and circular saws. I also use it to align the track sections for my track saws.
For most house type projects, how many milled pieces are over 6' long?

[Mike Cutler]

My 4' straight edge is a Starret #387. Very accurate (0.0002" per foot) and would be very expensive to replace.

BUT the smallest division is 1/32". Frankly for wood working I can't imagine the need for a 1/64 division.

Can someone enlighten me why such small divisions would be desirable?

Bill

Every now and then I'm asked to recreate a broken, or missing section, of a piece of furniture, where the dimension was based on whatever ruler was at hand a hundred years ago. It's easier to mark cut to the 64th, than cut to a "skinny", or "fat" 32nd. Not often, but sometimes.
For most wood working, not including machine setup, and very small projects, a 32nd is more than adequate. ;)