Need help fixing cracked dowl pin holes

[Bill Jobe]

My youngest daughter made this bench for me nearly 20 years ago. I would like to keep it as original as possible, yet, how would you fix this?

[robert wiggins]

That's a really neat old piece and I can see why you want to preserve it close as possible. If the stretcher will come out I may be inclined to smooth the opening some and insert a spacer of similar aged wood if a piece could be found. You may be able to do that with a file or thin sanding block if you would rather not take it apart.

[Jim Koepke]

This is a wedged or tusked tenon. The theory is if things become loose, one only has to tap the wedges to tighten things. This works until something gives.

You may find more help for repair ideas in the Neanderthal Haven.

If the tenon is structural (no reason to have one if it isn't) you may need more than a fix for appearance to prevent it breaking again.

If you do reuse this stretcher you may want to shave a little off of the shoulders at both tenons.

If this can be disassembled you may do best by replacing the stretcher and making the tenon a touch longer to help prevent breaking in the future. A bit of finish can also help it avoid problems caused by seasonal changes causing problems.

jtk

[Bill Jobe]

Until I closed my pond it had a prominent place and was used daily.
Since then my wife chose to use it as a potted plant stand. Not so much watched after, I'm ashamed to say. The feet are rotting as well.

Anyway, thanks for your suggestions and ideas, guys.

[michael langman]

Bill, If you do not mind changing the stool abit, I would get some 1/8" steel flat stock and shape it to the same shape as the sides of the mortice sticking through the feet.
If you made 4 of them 2 for each side and drill the holes for the pin size and that would give that tenon the strength it needs.
I would drill the holes in the pieces for the pins before shaping the sides. Ypu might even epoyy the steel to the side of the tusk or tenon
1/16 inch flatstock would probably work and look better.

[Jim Becker]

Remove the stretcher pins so you can have a good glue surface between the two sides of the crack, glue and clamp. Then re-assemble. You may or may not want to resize the pins so that they are snug but not exerting too much pressure that will re-crack the stretcher ends in a different place.

[robert wiggins]

If I am allowed a second " how would you "opinion, after thinking this through just a bit more, I suspect the stretcher is also cracked to some degree so it must be disassembled. It may take some time, persuasion and possibly a little moisture over time to pull it back together. So disregard my 1st suggestion of a spacer shim.

Moving right along now, after the gap can be successfully closed with a clamp I would consider glue and a counter bored screw, possibly 2, deep into the bottom of the stretcher to assist holding and a second smaller screw in the tenon, located within the mortise area, so it isn't visible after re-assembly. While the stretcher was out I would reinforce the other end even if it wasn't cracked.

If allowed a 3rd opinion I may be back.:D

[Bill Jobe]

The number of opinions is limitless.

[Jim Becker]

Honestly, I think that a full disassemble is in order so you can see what you are dealing with fully, Bill.

[Mark Wooden]

I would pull the pins out, carefully clean the crack out with compressed air and glue and clamp (with a good epoxy) the cracks closed. Then drill and countersink two #4 brass screws into the tenon from the underside to reinforce the crack.

[Bill Jobe]

Honestly, I think that a full disassemble is in order so you can see what you are dealing with fully, Bill.

I think so,too. The wife just wanted it sanded and a clear coat over it to get us past Easter. Then I can take it appart. We will have all 3 kids (kids? My son will be 50 in July) and hopefully all 8 grandkids. Said she'd cover it with decor so no one sits on it.
Thank you all again for your ideas and support.
It is much appreciated.:)

[robert wiggins]

I think so,too. The wife just wanted it sanded and a clear coat over it to get us past Easter. Then I can take it appart. We will have all 3 kids (kids? My son will be 50 in July) and hopefully all 8 grandkids. Said she'd cover it with decor so no one sits on it.
Thank you all again for your ideas and support.
It is much appreciated.:)
Seems the wife is thinking ahead because it looks as if Bill needs get the grill in order.:D Enjoy those kids and grandkids.

[lowell holmes]

I would practice on another piece of wood until I came up with how I wanted to do the repair.

Just my thought.

[robert wiggins]

The number of opinions is limitless.

OK, the round pin is what caused the crack and if i'm thinking correctly that can be prevented and still use the original rounds with a slight modification and still mostly preserve originality. Being a square/rectangle taper pin is the norm, so only lateral pressure is exerted on the tenon to draw the stretcher shoulders tight, a simple round pin modification would accomplish that if i'm seeing this right. The pin cut out area would extend slightly beyond the tenon on each side and be installed with the flats up and down.

Did you notice, I'm still an old pencil and paper fellow.

[lowell holmes]

I would start by trying to glue the crack closed. What do you have to lose? If that does not work, you can resort to more extreme measures.

[Peter Christensen]

Looking at the OP's pictures I think the hole the tenon passes through was a little too big and the tendon too short. When the round wedge is driven in the tenon spread in the loose hole causing it to split as there wasn't enough wood to resist the spreading. So I would glue the tenon back together and glue a shim in the bottom of the square hole where it won't be easily seen to tighten it as much as possible. That should reduce the splitting forces on the tenon and it should last another couple decades. There isn't enough material for fastener reinforcing and to make another stretcher with a longer tenon wouldn't be your girl's work.

[Paul Bent]

I think part of the joy I see in that piece is what has happened with it over the years. If it was from my daughter to me, I would drill a small hole through both split pieces and simply baling wire it in a manner which would keep the pieces from opening more while keeping visible the life in her efforts.

[Tom Bender]

Unless it's falling apart, just leave it, it's part of the patina.

[Alex Burkhardt]

I would pull the pin, and get the stretcher on the bench. Clamp and Glue may keep it going for another several years.

A more drastic option would be to cut the tenon and replace. Any number of ways to mate up two pieces of wood. Drill a new hole for the tenon, etc ...

Lastly, maybe grab a section of steel strap with a diameter that matches the outside of that through tenon. Think the type of strap that that secures conduit to a block wall. Screw through into the tenon and it should provide some additional strength.

Good luck!

[roger wiegand]

Rather than trying to force the crack closed I'd widen it a bit with a saw to give a good glue surface and then insert a dutchman, maybe 3-4 mm thick to fill the space without stressing it. I suspect if you force it closed it will just pop back open again. Made from the same wood, matching grain direction, and with a little artificial aging it could be nearly invisible.