8" Jointer Options

[Chris Kalnasy]

So I have scoured thread after thread regarding 8" jointers. Right now I am landing with the Grizzly G0858 Parallelogram Helical head. Is there anything else in that price range that far surpasses the grizzly unit? And yes I am shopping new as to have a warranty with it unless it was some amazing deal on something newer, but nothing great local to me yet. For example grizzly has a 1 year warranty, where as for roughly $2000 I could have a 'wedge' dovetail Jet helical 8" and they have a 5 year warranty.

Any thoughts here? I would like to be at $2k or under for the most part and the only thing on sale right now is the Laguna's on woodcraft's site.

[Matt Day]

Man, $2k for an 8” jointer. My $.02, if you have even a little mechanical ability, try to find a used jointer for less than half that. Jointers don’t have many things to go wrong.

And unless you have money to spend, a helical head in a jointer doesn’t make a lot of sense. That jointed board will be planed, so if you’re going to helical route the planer is much more important.

Where are you located?

But... shiny new toys can be fun, I get it. I prefer dirty old toys that I can fix it up and save money.

[Chris Kalnasy]

Hey matt,

So i have a cutech helical benchtop planer as well as a jet 1836 drumsander. I am just sick of my benchtop 6" jointer, doing any long board is an absolute pain.

And its funny about the helical head in the jointer because so many people say you have to have them, but I guess you bring up a good point, I could get by with a knife blade model because its going to be followed up in the planer any how for the faces.

[Robert Hazelwood]

I like the G0857 I bought a few months ago. It's the straight knife version of the one you mentioned. It seemed like the best deal for a new 8" jointer. I wanted to buy used, but nothing appealing came up for 6 months so I just bought new. I don't see a 5 year warranty as being a big deal on this sort of machine- if it's good out of the box then it's most likely gonna stay that way. If there are problems with it when it arrives, Grizzly is reputed to be good at dealing with it. I had no issues with mine.

[Jon Endres]

I have a Grizzly G0500 I bought new in 2005. Not a current model, but it is a 4-knife cutterhead, long bed, standard dovetail style bed. Has done everything I could ask of it, paid about $800. I would not bother with a helical head unless you were doing a lot of difficult woods like curly or birdseye maple, or exotics. If buying new today, I would consider the G0855. Have thought about wider beds, but with the right technique there's no need for a wider bed.

[Chris Kalnasy]

I like the G0857 I bought a few months ago. It's the straight knife version of the one you mentioned. It seemed like the best deal for a new 8" jointer. I wanted to buy used, but nothing appealing came up for 6 months so I just bought new. I don't see a 5 year warranty as being a big deal on this sort of machine- if it's good out of the box then it's most likely gonna stay that way. If there are problems with it when it arrives, Grizzly is reputed to be good at dealing with it. I had no issues with mine.

Have you tried any figured stuff? That really could be the only caveat.

[Jim Becker]

Chris, consider something wider if you can find one used within your budget. Flattening boards is the most important use for a jointer prior to thicknessing and 8" can be limiting.

[Chris Kalnasy]

Chris, consider something wider if you can find one used within your budget. Flattening boards is the most important use for a jointer prior to thicknessing and 8" can be limiting.

Hey Jim,

I wish I could, my new shop which is almost done, only has room for an 8". Grizzly had that 1 day flash sale for the G0651 table saw and the side feed and rear feed tables take up so much room. Most of my work is with 8" and narrower anyhow.

[Chris Kalnasy]

But with the 0855 vs 0857, you are talking $125 and gaining 4 inches and parallelogram bed. Thoughts there?

[Bill Dufour]

The Italians make some very good jointers. Since they are local to you I would start there.
Bill D

[Robert Hazelwood]

Have you tried any figured stuff? That really could be the only caveat.

Haven't yet, I don't use much of it. It's handled grain reversals (like you'd have around knots) pretty well, and sometimes those areas are more liable to tear out than figured grain. I've ran stuff like curly maple and crotch figure through my straight knife lunchbox planer and it was fine, so I felt like I'd be ok with straight knives on the jointer. I suppose the real test would be something like birdseye figure, which I've never used.

[Rick Alexander]

I got an Oliver about 8 years ago. It does have the byrd head and I don't think I could go back. I don't just do edges on my 8 inch - I often flatten the face especially on rails and styles and find the helical a god-send for that. Those blades last a LONG time. Absolutely a great buy for me and the Oliver was competitively priced as a IWF end of show deal.

[Robert Hazelwood]

I will say that the straight knife cutterhead is quite loud. I'm not talking about the noise during cutting, I'm talking about the air-raid siren effect from the knives beating the air. It's noticeable while the machine is idling but when you run the dust collector it gets much louder. It is as loud or even a little louder than the lunchbox planer, according to my wife, though I think it's a bit less obnoxious. Still, you absolutely need hearing protection. I assumed the jointer would be relatively quiet compared to the lunchbox planer.

If this is typical of the straight knife model, and if the spiral head mitigates it, then that would justify the upgrade more than anything.

[Chapel Eastland]

The Italians make some very good jointers. Since they are local to you I would start there.
Bill D

The Italians also make some very good operas and pasta fagioli, but I'd go with the Grizzly 858.

If you've got the money, the space, and that's what you want, get it. You'll have a nice tool that's new, well-made, and ready to go delivered to your shop.

I understand those who say buy used, but you may be inheriting someone's problems and almost assuredly you will spend time and money bringing it up to snuff.

Getting the helical cutter is a big plus and having it installed by the manufacturer instead of later getting a helical cutter installed is also a major consideration.

The 8" size should suffice just fine for you.

I think you already know you want the Grizzly so get it. Otherwise, you'll have buyer's remorse and still want the Grizzly.

[Matt Day]

My 12” jointer takes up basically the same amount of room as my old 8” did. The very minor amount more room it occupies is well worth the 4” more jointing width.

You’re going to want to upgrade one day anyway, just like you want to upgrade from your 6”.

[Justin Rapp]

I purchased the Laguna 6" model 2 years back. The difference between the Laguna and my 6" Delta with straight blades is like night and day. The machine is smooth, quite and leaves a great surface on the sides that are run through it. Plane the other side down to thickness and sand. If I was to do it again, i'd go for the 8". For about the same price, the GO858 looks like an amazing machine also . I just keep passing on Grizzly tools even though they are always in my consideration list when buying a new tool.

[Martin Siebert]

I have a jointer with a helical head. I will say that not necessarily all of the so-called "advantages" of the helical head are quite what they are cracked up to be, or are a viable factor in acquiring one. Several of them though are in fact real advantages. I don't understand the comments above that "you will plane the board anyway".....I don't, at least not on the side I just flattened. It doesn't need to be run on the side that was just flattened on my jointer. It does get planed to thickness, but one side, the side I just did on the jointer is fine and does not get planed.
Carbide insert cutters do a better job with figured wood or where the grain reverses for sure, but it is not always a cure all. I will say too that a helical head and carbide cutters cannot produce a better finer finish than straight HSS blades, if the blades are good and sharp and properly set up. The problem is that they don't stay good and sharp for long. Probably the biggest advantage of a helical head is not in the way it cuts or that it last longer sharpness wise, it's more in the ease with which you can quickly reset the inserts when they finally do get dull. Finally, there is always the consideration of resale value. A quick look at classifieds reveals that you might just as well buy a brand new Powermatic helical head jointer as to buy one used, yet they always sell.
Like 'em or hate 'em...the helical head cutter is the "rage of the age" so to speak.

[Matt Day]

You should plane the jointed side because you want to try to take off equal amounts of material from both sides of the stock to reduce the chance of wood movement after milling. If there’s any reactions that are going to happen, equalizing the cut will reduce it.

For example, if your rough board is 4/4 and you want a 3/4 board, you’d joint just enough to get it flat, plane to get parallel sides, then remove material equally from both sides to get down to 3/4. So you’d plane the jointed face.

[Tony Roun]

I was recently in the market for a used 8" Jointer to upgrade from my 6" Delta. I looked and almost bought a few local machines that were in the $500-$700 range for a used 8" dovetail jointer. I am happy I took the advice from several folks on this forum, and I searched for a few months for Jointer/Planers so I could go wider. I ended up finding a Robland 12" Jointer Planer with a 3HP motor for less than I was going to pay for an 8" jointer used, and I am so happy I waited. I just had a large oak log milled into quartersawn boards, and many are in the 10-11" wide range. If you are in the $1000-$2000 budget range, you can find used J/P that would get you a wider jointer, and you'd only have one cutter head to upgrade if segmented was something that you valued. You have to be patient as they don't come up as often, but my sense is that it will be worth it.

[Andrew Seemann]

For you folks in used tool heaven, remember that many of us live in used tool deserts. For example, in the Mpls area, on CL, there have been three. 8" jointers listed in the last 4 months. The first two were overpriced relative to new, and both were gone in a matter of days. The third got listed yesterday, a PJ882 "new in crate" for $2000. After that for the entire state of MN, there are currently 7 other jointers listed, three gad-awful 6" Craftsmans with the non adjustable outfeed table, three sub 6" jointers, and one awful jointer-planer-sander combo.

For many of us, used just isn't an option, no matter how much we would like it to be:)

[Martin Siebert]

You should plane the jointed side because you want to try to take off equal amounts of material from both sides of the stock to reduce the chance of wood movement after milling. If there’s any reactions that are going to happen, equalizing the cut will reduce it.

For example, if your rough board is 4/4 and you want a 3/4 board, you’d joint just enough to get it flat, plane to get parallel sides, then remove material equally from both sides to get down to 3/4. So you’d plane the jointed face.

I totally agree....with some of your post, but you failed to think out all your post.....so, if I face join away lets say, 1/8" on the side to get the board flat.......then.......I plane another 1/8" off the other side {of a 5/4 board} I now have my 3/4 board with equal amounts taken off either side for minimal "reaction", which side lost more to cause the faced side to have to be planed????
I get what you are trying to say, nice try, but the fact is nobody really worries about it to the 1/8 of an inch.

[David Kumm]

New machines are freighted from all over the world. Freighting a used machine 1000 miles is no big deal, just needs to be factored into price. As to a finished surface from a jointer, I'd argue the inconsistency in feed rate, and downward pressure relative to a machine with multiple hold downs and variable feed speed will always make a planed surface superior to a jointed one. Dave

[Jim Becker]

But with the 0855 vs 0857, you are talking $125 and gaining 4 inches and parallelogram bed. Thoughts there?
No brainer. Go wider. Especially for that drop-in-a-bucket cost difference. And it helps with your figured stock question because you can skew the material in whatever way works best for flattening to get the cleanest cut. Wide isn't always for wide things. :)

[Chapel Eastland]

As to the point to go ahead and just get a 12" jointer, they'll be someone who says you'll never be satisfied with a 12" jointer so go ahead and get a 20" jointer.

It becomes like someone who wants a bench-top drill press and someone says go ahead and get a used Bridgeport milling machine.

It seems to me the OP expressed that he had room and the money for a new 8" Grizzly. I'm not second-guessing him as he seems to know what he wants, has done the research, and doesn't appear to want a used jointer for whatever reason.

The Grizzly is a good jointer, at less money than other brand names and has great reviews from those that own or know about Grizzly jointers.

Of course everyone has an opinion, but the only one with the money in the discussion is the OP.

[Mike Kees]

I am in the 12'' or bigger camp. My reasons are I have observed many woodworkers go from 6'' to 8'' ,12''. Why not just skip a step and get something you will not outgrow. A 12'' machine will have a footprint only slightly larger than most 8'' jointers and if it only costs $125 more what are we still talking about this for.

[Chris Kalnasy]

I am in the 12'' or bigger camp. My reasons are I have observed many woodworkers go from 6'' to 8'' ,12''. Why not just skip a step and get something you will not outgrow. A 12'' machine will have a footprint only slightly larger than most 8'' jointers and if it only costs $125 more what are we still talking about this for.

I assume you mean in the used market costing $125 more? I would love to find a 12" jointer, would have to be used, but a good brand for under $2000. I could only assume of the 'name brands' Grizzly would be the cheapest 12" option you can get new.

[Randy Heinemann]

I have owned the Jet 8" helical head jointer for about 6 years. I think it is a great jointer and bought it when Jet equipment was on sale; at that time 15% off. Other than the difficulty in getting into my basement shop, it has been a great performer. I had two problems during the 5-year warranty: 1.The setscrew holding the cooling fan on the TEFC motor came loose and began rattling around inside the motor housing.; and 2. There was a short in the cord/plug which turned out to be caused by a cut in the cord's outer insulation at the connection to the plug (which by the way was wired by me since a plug was not included).

In both cases, Jet contacted their local factory service contractor in my area who quickly scheduled an appointment for an onsite repair and repaired each within a couple of days after I reported it. to Jet. Given the fact that I had originally wired the plug, I don't think Jet was required to cover the service trip, but it wasn't an issue.

Because of this response and the extremely high performance of the jointer, I recommend this jointer without question. Having an 8" jointer changed the quality of the planed/jointed wood I use for projects. Since I rarely find good wood wider than 8" these days, I can almost always flatten one side on the jointer first and then plane the other side to thickness. I always joint between rips when ripping the wood down to width and the jointer has always given me a flat, square edge for ripping and, then later, for gluing if necessary.

I have nothing bad to say about the 8" Jet HH jointer.

As an aside, it is my understanding that Grizzly does not provide onsite service regardless what the problem is.

[Jon Nuckles]

I am in the 12'' or bigger camp. My reasons are I have observed many woodworkers go from 6'' to 8'' ,12''. Why not just skip a step and get something you will not outgrow. A 12'' machine will have a footprint only slightly larger than most 8'' jointers and if it only costs $125 more what are we still talking about this for.

Some confusion arose as a result of the OP's comparison of a 4" difference between Grizzly's 0855 and 0857. That is a 4" difference in length, not width. They are both 8" jointers.

[Matt Day]

I totally agree....with some of your post, but you failed to think out all your post.....so, if I face join away lets say, 1/8" on the side to get the board flat.......then.......I plane another 1/8" off the other side {of a 5/4 board} I now have my 3/4 board with equal amounts taken off either side for minimal "reaction", which side lost more to cause the faced side to have to be planed????
I get what you are trying to say, nice try, but the fact is nobody really worries about it to the 1/8 of an inch.

Alright buddy, you da man.

Yes of course there might be 1% of the time where to get two flat surface you can’t send the board through the planer on a light pass to remove jointer milling marks. The other 99% of the time you can easily flip the board and remove any tearout or milling marks from a standard knifed cutterhead. You go ahead and do what you do pal.

[Bill Dufour]

I did not know grizzly delivered outside of North America?
Bil lD


The Italians also make some very good operas and pasta fagioli, but I'd go with the Grizzly 858.

If you've got the money, the space, and that's what you want, get it. You'll have a nice tool that's new, well-made, and ready to go delivered to your shop.

I understand those who say buy used, but you may be inheriting someone's problems and almost assuredly you will spend time and money bringing it up to snuff.

Getting the helical cutter is a big plus and having it installed by the manufacturer instead of later getting a helical cutter installed is also a major consideration.

The 8" size should suffice just fine for you.

I think you already know you want the Grizzly so get it. Otherwise, you'll have buyer's remorse and still want the Grizzly.

[Gordon Stump]

3 words: Add to Cart

[Mike Kees]

Chris I was reading this thread and did make the mistake that you were comparing a 12'' and 8'' from Grizzly. If you would consider used your money would take you farther. The flip side to guys who claim they want new "for warranty"is 90% of the used machines I have bought already have all the problems dealt with. Or I get screaming deals because someone does not have the mechanical skill , or want to adjust and tune a machine so they sell it cheap. I will say that it is a lot harder to find used 8'' jointers. Good luck in your quest,Mike.

[Chris Kalnasy]

As to the point to go ahead and just get a 12" jointer, they'll be someone who says you'll never be satisfied with a 12" jointer so go ahead and get a 20" jointer.

It becomes like someone who wants a bench-top drill press and someone says go ahead and get a used Bridgeport milling machine.

It seems to me the OP expressed that he had room and the money for a new 8" Grizzly. I'm not second-guessing him as he seems to know what he wants, has done the research, and doesn't appear to want a used jointer for whatever reason.

The Grizzly is a good jointer, at less money than other brand names and has great reviews from those that own or know about Grizzly jointers.

Of course everyone has an opinion, but the only one with the money in the discussion is the OP.


To reply to this and some other posts on my thread in regards to a used unit. I have looked high and dry for a newerish Jointer in my area and continue to come up with nothing. I say newer because the likelihood that a newer unit will have an issue is lower than an older one. And parts would be much easier to come by than an older one. I almost landed a 12" newer grizzly for $2000, but it was a 12 hour round trip and once I agreed the owner backed out of the sale and decided to keep it. Also in regards to the 12", it would be great but I would not buy one new. It would have to be an amazing deal and I would make the space have to work around it.

I didnt intend to make a big fuss with this thread, just hoping to see if there was a reason to jump up to a Jet, PM, Laguna, etc over the grizzly. I saw one user really really liked his Jet unit.

[Chris Kalnasy]

Chris I was reading this thread and did make the mistake that you were comparing a 12'' and 8'' from Grizzly. If you would consider used your money would take you farther. The flip side to guys who claim they want new "for warranty"is 90% of the used machines I have bought already have all the problems dealt with. Or I get screaming deals because someone does not have the mechanical skill , or want to adjust and tune a machine so they sell it cheap. I will say that it is a lot harder to find used 8'' jointers. Good luck in your quest,Mike.

No worries Mike. As I just replied to another guy, I have also looked for a 12" jointer used and cannot find anything that is a screaming deal that I would force myself to make room for it. I will continue to do but it isn't looking good.

[Justin Rapp]

To reply to this and some other posts on my thread in regards to a used unit. I have looked high and dry for a newerish Jointer in my area and continue to come up with nothing. I say newer because the likelihood that a newer unit will have an issue is lower than an older one. And parts would be much easier to come by than an older one. I almost landed a 12" newer grizzly for $2000, but it was a 12 hour round trip and once I agreed the owner backed out of the sale and decided to keep it. Also in regards to the 12", it would be great but I would not buy one new. It would have to be an amazing deal and I would make the space have to work around it.

I didnt intend to make a big fuss with this thread, just hoping to see if there was a reason to jump up to a Jet, PM, Laguna, etc over the grizzly. I saw one user really really liked his Jet unit.

Chris,

I posted earlier today regarding Laguna and how amazing the unit is. While mine is the 6", the 8" is pretty much the same concept just bigger! You won't be disappointed in Laguna. I looked at PM and Jet in person, Grizzly and Laguna only online. I made the choice to go Laguna after seeing the fit/finish on a few of their bandsaws at a Woodcraft store. After using the machine for 2 years, the only thing i'd have done different is go 8". PM and Jet were also great machines and I would bet the Grizzly is also. I remember now why I dropped Grizzly from my list, the table was 10" shorther than the Laguna.

I know I am not helping you make your choice , but most people wouldn't really have much 'bad' to say about Jet, PM or Laguna. The true issue with Grizzly is they have a big mix of machines to try and meet various price points. Some of them may not be as good, however you are looking at one of the higher priced 8" models, which I would take a guess is going to be a better quality machine than the lower priced models. BTW - I have since purchased a Laguna band saw.

[Tim Cardinal]

Mat is right, I picked up an 8 in General jointer for $500..It runs smooth, I need to fix up the base but that's easy. Might even add a helical head for $600.
408040
Man, $2k for an 8” jointer. My $.02, if you have even a little mechanical ability, try to find a used jointer for less than half that. Jointers don’t have many things to go wrong.

And unless you have money to spend, a helical head in a jointer doesn’t make a lot of sense. That jointed board will be planed, so if you’re going to helical route the planer is much more important.

Where are you located?

But... shiny new toys can be fun, I get it. I prefer dirty old toys that I can fix it up and save money.

[Andrew Hughes]

I searched high and low for over a year to find a 12 inch jointer that would meet my expectations.
Out here on the west coast were flush with 6 and 8s.
Dont put a bryd or any carbide insert head in a jointer.

[Andrew More]

FWIW, I would not expect an 8" jointer for cheap to show up anytime soon on Craiglist in the Ohio/Indian/Kentucky area. I've looked for years and not seen anything, though lots of 4" and 6" jointers, mostly rusted out old craftman. Lucked into an old 8" HF warrior which I bought for $200. (Dude was in from out of town cleaning out his father's shop, and I was there for the bandsaw) I held it for a year or and was happy enough with it, though the fence was terrible. I also managed to chip the knives about 3 boards after carefully sharpening and setting the blades. After that I swore to buy a decent jointer with a helixal head, and could see putting the money into the old Warrior.

Put it on Craigslist for $500 and my inbox overflowed.

Very happy with the G0490x, worth every penny.

[Chapel Eastland]

Dont put a bryd or any carbide insert head in a jointer.

Care to elaborate on your statement?

[Andrew Hughes]

Sure
I didn’t like the feed pressure from the way inserts cut
Cleaning up the inserts after pitch from Douglas fir was a disaster
Edges were not glue ready and needed to hand planed.

Just so you know I do have a pm 15hh but the surface is no way as nice as my straight knife jointer.

[Andrew Hughes]

This is the real test for any jointer.
How long of a maple or white wood board can your machine joint.
Making a invisible joint in lite color wood is not easy.
This board is 10ft long and jointed back together right down the middle with M2 hss.
Any small gaps will be obvious to even the most Casual observer.

[Chapel Eastland]

Sure
I didn’t like the feed pressure from the way inserts cut
Cleaning up the inserts after pitch from Douglas fir was a disaster
Edges were not glue ready and needed to hand planed.

Just so you know I do have a pm 15hh but the surface is no way as nice as my straight knife jointer.

#1 is subjective. Different "feel" values for different people.

#2 Woods, particularly conifers, can lead to pitch deposits as sometimes occurs on bandsaw blades. But that's the cost of doing business depending on wood choices.

#3 Other people would disagree and have found helical cutters to be the equal, if not superior, to knives on leaving edges "glue ready."

Your test is valid for you, but may not apply to other's ways of working or their criteria for a successful jointer head.

Thanks for your reply as you have demonstrated a valid response from your perceptions.

[Allan Speers]

Man, $2k for an 8” jointer. My $.02, if you have even a little mechanical ability, try to find a used jointer for less than half that. Jointers don’t have many things to go wrong.

And unless you have money to spend, a helical head in a jointer doesn’t make a lot of sense. That jointed board will be planed, so if you’re going to helical route the planer is much more important.

I agree about the helical head, but with 2 caveats:

1: If you work a lot with highly figured wood...

2: If your DC system is marginal, a Shelix can help because the chips are much smaller & so easier to pull through the ducting.


Well, and 3: If you work a LOT, the Shelix will more than pay for itself at some point.

[Gary Petersen]

I bought the Grizzly G0858 about six months ago and love it. Assembly was minimal and manageable by myself. The tables were flat and true out of the crate. The tables and fence are both quite solid. The unit is movable, but quite heavy. The longer tables make it much easier to joint longer boards. The spiral cutter head does, in fact, reduce noise tremendously. I had a concern before buying the unit about being able to adjust the cut depth with just the lever, but that's not been an issue at all. It offers very good control. Delivery was quick, too. I had mine in my shop within ten days of placing the order. I highly recommend it.

[Tom Dixon]

My first jointer was an 8" Griz. I had it for about 4 years but I quickly realized in the first year that I really needed to go wider. The opportunity arrived when I moved from MN to TN a few years back. I sold most of my stationary tools since I knew it would be a while before I could set up a new shop. When I finally built my new shop 3 years later my first purchase was a Grizzly G0609X. I couldn't be happier with going wider and the 609 is a solid machine. I know it is half again more expensive than the G0858 but well worth the investment if you can swing it.

[Chris Kalnasy]

I bought the Grizzly G0858 about six months ago and love it. Assembly was minimal and manageable by myself. The tables were flat and true out of the crate. The tables and fence are both quite solid. The unit is movable, but quite heavy. The longer tables make it much easier to joint longer boards. The spiral cutter head does, in fact, reduce noise tremendously. I had a concern before buying the unit about being able to adjust the cut depth with just the lever, but that's not been an issue at all. It offers very good control. Delivery was quick, too. I had mine in my shop within ten days of placing the order. I highly recommend it.

So I have done a lot of reading that the mobile base built into the newer Grizzly jointers, 858 included, is garbage and basically impossible to move. I wont move mine often but I will need to move it from time to time. Sounds like it isn't as bad as some are saying. If I can save the money on buying or building a mobile base that would be another positive for the 858 for me.

[glenn bradley]

I agree about the helical head, but with 2 caveats:

1: If you work a lot with highly figured wood...

2: If your DC system is marginal, a Shelix can help because the chips are much smaller & so easier to pull through the ducting.


Well, and 3: If you work a LOT, the Shelix will more than pay for itself at some point.

I'll chime in with Allan. The idea that an insert head doesn't make sense because you're going to re-plane that surface anyway does not hold true in practice for me. Tear out is what got me looking at the insert heads, the money savings is what sealed the deal.

I would experience tear out, even with newly sharpened knives, that was deep enough that the amount of material left to be removed would not eliminate it. Murphy being alive and well, this happened most often on my most expensive material.

Based on my previous sharpening and replacement schedule, the insert head paid for itself about 8 years ago. I am a watchful consumer. An outfit that sells the original inserts was trying to attract a new tier of customers (smaller scale and home shops) and had a great price on a "set" of inserts for my machine so I picked one up about 4 years ago. I'll probably crack it open before the end of the year.

I'll also add that the mobile base on the G0490X is just 2 fixed steel wheels and a cam-dropped swivel steel wheel at the front. This has worked great for the small amounts that I have to move the jointer. I swivel it a bit for the occasional longer stock. The jointer sets in front of my horizontal wood storage so I do about the same move to access that area. No complaints but, I wouldn't want to roll it a dozen feet on a regular basis if my use-model required that.

[Chapel Eastland]

So I have done a lot of reading that the mobile base built into the newer Grizzly jointers, 858 included, is garbage and basically impossible to move. I wont move mine often but I will need to move it from time to time. Sounds like it isn't as bad as some are saying. If I can save the money on buying or building a mobile base that would be another positive for the 858 for me.

I'm looking at the 858 and have heard similar reports about the difficulty some have had with moving it. But others have reported that, while it's heavy and somewhat cumbersome, it can be moved with minimum difficulty on a good concrete floor.

As I have a good level concrete shop floor (no cracks, dips, sloping drains, aggregate concrete, etc.) it should be fine for me. I have a spot for it against an interior wall where it will not necessitate moving except to occasionally service it and make adjustments.

When I get it, I can easily setup the cabinet in the spot where it's to go, and have a neighbor with a car engine cherry-picker to set the top in place.

If your floor currently supports other heavy power tools on mobile bases, the 858 will probably work for you.

[Bill Space]

So I have done a lot of reading that the mobile base built into the newer Grizzly jointers, 858 included, is garbage and basically impossible to move. I wont move mine often but I will need to move it from time to time. Sounds like it isn't as bad as some are saying. If I can save the money on buying or building a mobile base that would be another positive for the 858 for me.

I have the G0490X and occasionally have to shift it out of the way if cutting something wide on my table saw, as the jointer sits beside the out feed table. It moves easily on the relatively smooth concrete floor. For me it is more than satisfactory.

It did bang down on the floor when lowered initially, but that issue went away when I adjusted the feet to be closer to the floor.

[Andrew More]

I've got a G0490X, and the mobile base is adequate. My two complains are that the wheels point in the "wrong" direction, and that it pops off the swivel wheel pretty easily. By wrong direction, my unique use case is to store the jointer under a very high work bench, and I want to pull it out when in use, slide it back when not in use, for which I need the wheels to point side to side, not front to back. As for the swivel wheel popping off, I have a terrible concrete floor: it's rough, and has multiple ugly joints. If the swivel does NOT pop off from all the bouncing around on the floor I am able to push the jointer anywhere in the shop, as long as I do so carefully.

To fix the side to side wheeling problem I'm likely going to build a new mobile base. If this was not the issue, I would be fine with it.

[Chris Kalnasy]

Someone correct me if I am wrong but it looks like the older jointers like the 490X have a different mobile system than the new. The new looks like wheels are built in underneath and you lift the end with rubber feet up and 'walk' the jointer where you need it.

[Robert Hazelwood]

So I have done a lot of reading that the mobile base built into the newer Grizzly jointers, 858 included, is garbage and basically impossible to move. I wont move mine often but I will need to move it from time to time. Sounds like it isn't as bad as some are saying. If I can save the money on buying or building a mobile base that would be another positive for the 858 for me.


It's not great, but it can be moved. The issue is that there are no swivel wheels. It rolls great in a straight line, but if you need to make a turn you have to scoot one end. It's not that hard to scoot it, but if your situation is such that you'll need to move it very often, like after every shop session to allow a car to park or something, then it might be a consideration. The wheels are also very small diameter and there's not much ground clearance, so it is not going to make it over much of an obstacle. It moves fine on the smooth concrete you find in most garages, but on a rougher surface with large expansion joints I expect it would get hung up a lot.

[Chapel Eastland]

The 848 has wheels on each corner. They are secured with 2 locking knobs on the cabinet base below the infeed table. The 490X has an outboard lever-operated foot pedal to lift the cabinet.

[Chris Kalnasy]

Well 858 it is. I happened upon a 10% off coupon for Grizzly. Can't beat that.

[Chapel Eastland]

Well 858 it is. I happened upon a 10% off coupon for Grizzly. Can't beat that.



Very often people, when posting a potential purchase for woodworking tools, look for a consensus of popularity of a certain brand or model and buy according to someone else's criteria.

You, on the other hand, were looking for negative feedback on the specific tool, in this case the Grizzly 858 jointer.

Frankly, there was none. There were opinions as to what you "should" get, but those were just opinions without the real knowledge only you possess. You weren't swayed.

So you wisely followed your own research and bought what you wanted.

Good for you. Please let us know how it works for you.

[Chris Kalnasy]

Very often people, when posting a potential purchase for woodworking tools, look for a consensus of popularity of a certain brand or model and buy according to someone else's criteria.

You, on the other hand, were looking for negative feedback on the specific tool, in this case the Grizzly 858 jointer.

Frankly, there was none. There were opinions as to what you "should" get, but those were just opinions without the real knowledge only you possess. You weren't swayed.

So you wisely followed your own research and bought what you wanted.

Good for you. Please let us know how it works for you.

Thank you! Look, I have some Jet equipment in my shop, I have a brand new Grizzly table saw I am putting together this week, and I have quite a few festool items. I don't care if it is made in taiwan or germany or in america as long as the tool does its desired function properly and reliably. I easily could have spent a few hundred more on the jet spiral 8", but its bed is only 72" long vs the 0858 is 76". I know that sounds crazy to make a big deal over a few inches of bed length, but my main issue with my benchtop jointer now is entirely bed length, so if I can get as much as possible to make sure I won't have an issue indexing a longer board, then sure!

I will report back probably in a few weeks as I assume early next week it will arrive and then spend time getting it set up and comfortable with it. I am moving into my new shop hopefully this weekend that I have been building over the past 4 months so I cannot wait to get to cutting, gluing, and finishing again.

[Andrew Hughes]

Jointers might be simple machines but the difference between a good jointer and a great one that’s very accurate is very small.
Putting one on a mobile base is not a good idea moving the machine around from the tables is also bad practice.
Once you goof up the alignment on a lite duty machine it will be difficult to get it back.
Shelix Head is money better spent on your planer.
Learning how to pick wood,read grain direction,set good hss jointer knives are part of what keep woodworking fun.
Good Luck

[Matt Day]

Shelix Head is money better spent on your planer.
Learning how to pick wood,read grain direction,set good hss jointer knives are part of what keep woodworking fun.
Good Luck

Well said.

[Chapel Eastland]

Shelix Head is money better spent on your planer.


Not according to the man who decided his money was better spent on his new jointer.

[Andrew Hughes]

Not according to the man who decided his money was better spent on his new jointer.
Thats true, there’s nothing wrong when someone wants to pay for their truth it’s a small fee in the end.

I would like to point out gib Head jointers have a longer proven history of success. I wager close to a hundred years my jointer gib Head is over 60 years or cutting wood.

Shelix heads with all those little screws what does one do when thread because stretched or cross threaded in the middle of the head?
Do you think they will last?

I payed my fee I already know. :)

[Chapel Eastland]

Shelix heads with all those little screws what does one do when thread because stretched or cross threaded in the middle of the head?
Do you think they will last?
:)

So far they have - - that's one of the reasons so many have given up knives on planers and jointers for cutters.

[Andrew Hughes]

So far they have - - that's one of the reasons so many have given up knives on planers and jointers for cutters.

I admire your enthusiasm for Shelix technology.:)

[Chapel Eastland]

I admire your enthusiasm for Shelix technology.:)

I'm also have ethusiasm for smartphones over Dixie Cups and string. :D

[Andrew Hughes]

I'm also have ethusiasm for smartphones over Dixie Cups and string. :D

This is a time of technology like a train rolling down the track scooping and scooping up new ideas and innovations.
That doesn’t bother me at all.
Its the dude in the last car shoveling out the best of what got us here today.
And it’s certainly not cups and strings.;)

[Gary Petersen]

So I have done a lot of reading that the mobile base built into the newer Grizzly jointers, 858 included, is garbage and basically impossible to move. I wont move mine often but I will need to move it from time to time. Sounds like it isn't as bad as some are saying. If I can save the money on buying or building a mobile base that would be another positive for the 858 for me.

I move it a bit in my shop but am trying to figure out where it can have a more or less permanent home so I don't have to move it. It is a heavy lift on one end of the table, to be sure, but a manageable one.

[Gary Petersen]

When I get it, I can easily setup the cabinet in the spot where it's to go, and have a neighbor with a car engine cherry-picker to set the top in place.

One thing I really liked about the GO858 was that it arrived nearly fully assembled upright in its crate. The only real assembly step was swinging the control switch on its arm upright and bolting it into place. You don't need to set the table on the cabinet with this one. And I was able to get it out of the crate bottom on my own by lifting one end, swinging it sideways, then lifting the other end to set it on the floor.

[Chapel Eastland]

One thing I really liked about the GO858 was that it arrived nearly fully assembled upright in its crate. The only real assembly step was swinging the control switch on its arm upright and bolting it into place. You don't need to set the table on the cabinet with this one. And I was able to get it out of the crate bottom on my own by lifting one end, swinging it sideways, then lifting the other end to set it on the floor.

That's good to know. If the table comes attached to the cabinet that's one major concern now vanquished! Thanks.

[Chapel Eastland]

This is a time of technology like a train rolling down the track scooping and scooping up new ideas and innovations.
That doesn’t bother me at all.
Its the dude in the last car shoveling out the best of what got us here today.
And it’s certainly not cups and strings.;)

I'm sure that what the street sweepers following the elephants in the circus parade felt too.

[Chapel Eastland]

One thing I really liked about the GO858 was that it arrived nearly fully assembled upright in its crate. The only real assembly step was swinging the control switch on its arm upright and bolting it into place. You don't need to set the table on the cabinet with this one. And I was able to get it out of the crate bottom on my own by lifting one end, swinging it sideways, then lifting the other end to set it on the floor.


Could you please tell me the distance from the front of the table to the furthest point on the back? I've looked at the specs and it says 25" but I'd appreciate a verification.

I'm trying to determine exactly where I can place it in my shop and still have room in front to maneuver.
Thanks.

[Chris Hachet]

Hey matt,

So i have a cutech helical benchtop planer as well as a jet 1836 drumsander. I am just sick of my benchtop 6" jointer, doing any long board is an absolute pain.

And its funny about the helical head in the jointer because so many people say you have to have them, but I guess you bring up a good point, I could get by with a knife blade model because its going to be followed up in the planer any how for the faces.

My productivity increased so much when I went to an 8 inch floor model Powermatic...it was unreal.

[Chris Hachet]

Chris, consider something wider if you can find one used within your budget. Flattening boards is the most important use for a jointer prior to thicknessing and 8" can be limiting.

Having a friend with a 24 inch jointer...has proven to be productive in my case.

[Chris Hachet]

I got an Oliver about 8 years ago. It does have the byrd head and I don't think I could go back. I don't just do edges on my 8 inch - I often flatten the face especially on rails and styles and find the helical a god-send for that. Those blades last a LONG time. Absolutely a great buy for me and the Oliver was competitively priced as a IWF end of show deal.

That is a highly impressive machine. Love both the old and the new Oliver.

[Chris Hachet]

FWIW, I would not expect an 8" jointer for cheap to show up anytime soon on Craiglist in the Ohio/Indian/Kentucky area. I've looked for years and not seen anything, though lots of 4" and 6" jointers, mostly rusted out old craftman. Lucked into an old 8" HF warrior which I bought for $200. (Dude was in from out of town cleaning out his father's shop, and I was there for the bandsaw) I held it for a year or and was happy enough with it, though the fence was terrible. I also managed to chip the knives about 3 boards after carefully sharpening and setting the blades. After that I swore to buy a decent jointer with a helixal head, and could see putting the money into the old Warrior.

Put it on Craigslist for $500 and my inbox overflowed.

Very happy with the G0490x, worth every penny.

Quoted for truth....an 8 inch jointer will usually sell for hours around here.

[lee cox]

I have a 6 inch jointer and wish sometimes I had an 8 inch but I have a small shop. Seems like you would want an 8 inch with the longest tables. I have a Delta 6 inch which works great. I have a good friend give me his Jet 6 inch jointer which has longer tables than the Delta. I am trying to move over to the Jet.

I like knives. They are easy to setup. I have a OneWay dial gauge. I think that's what it is called.

[Gary Petersen]

Could you please tell me the distance from the front of the table to the furthest point on the back? I've looked at the specs and it says 25" but I'd appreciate a verification.

I can confirm the 25" depth dimension. The actual measurement on the tool is about 24.25" but the furthest part to the back side is a handle for adjusting the fence. You'll need a bit of extra room behind it to grab the handle.

[Chapel Eastland]

I can confirm the 25" depth dimension. The actual measurement on the tool is about 24.25" but the furthest part to the back side is a handle for adjusting the fence. You'll need a bit of extra room behind it to grab the handle.

Thanks. That's just what I needed to know.

[lee cox]

So I have question. Are knives smoother than the bryd heads? I have a friend with some type of bryd China made head. It is a little on the wavy side and rough. I use my 6 inch Delta to smooth veneer before I slice it. I had to line some of my wife's dresser drawers with cedar. She found a few bugs. So I tried cutting 1/8 inch veneers but she said they were not smooth enough. I tried sanding. What a pain. I decide if I ran the cedar board through the jointer then sliced it she was happy and I did not have to sand them. My wife would of never approved my friends boards as they are not real smooth.

[Bill Space]

I have an 8" jointer with an insert head, and a 15" planer with HSS knives.

Frankly, the finish between the two surfaces is about the same. With slight sanding probably indistinguishable.

For me, one is as good as the other. Except that the insert head may deal with crazy grain better with less tear out.

Thinking about it, I like both equally. Can't voice an opinion one your friend's insert head, but it is likely inferior to the normal insert heads...at least from my experience. Perhaps it was assembled without proper cleaning of the head where the inserts rest? Who knows? But I will say again, in my case I see little if any difference between the surface off my jointer and the planer with HSS knives. At least until the planer knives tear out something that the insert head might not have...:)

[Andrew Hughes]

I get a better surface from my straight knives then the bryd head in the planer. I don’t buy figured wood very often unless it super nice and not too expensive.
Lee maybe you friends inserts are dull carbide doesn’t really start out the sharp. Inserts are not so great with softer woods.

[Chapel Eastland]

So I have question. Are knives smoother than the bryd heads? I have a friend with some type of bryd China made head. It is a little on the wavy side and rough. I use my 6 inch Delta to smooth veneer before I slice it. I had to line some of my wife's dresser drawers with cedar. She found a few bugs. So I tried cutting 1/8 inch veneers but she said they were not smooth enough. I tried sanding. What a pain. I decide if I ran the cedar board through the jointer then sliced it she was happy and I did not have to sand them. My wife would of never approved my friends boards as they are not real smooth.

Your first lines in your post may indicate the problem. Byrd Shelix cutters are made in Kentucky, not China.

[lee cox]

I did not mean he had a real Byrd head as he had a China made tool. It was a year ago so I don't remember the brand. I will find out when I talk to him again. I have never seen a real Byrd Shelix cutter head and I did not know they were made in the US. I was not impressed with what I saw. I am a hobbyist.

[Chapel Eastland]

I did not mean he had a real Byrd head as he had a China made tool. It was a year ago so I don't remember the brand. I will find out when I talk to him again. I have never seen a real Byrd Shelix cutter head and I did not know they were made in the US. I was not impressed with what I saw. I am a hobbyist.

No problem. But there are differences in cutting heads. Byrd makes good stuff - not sure about Chinese knockoffs.

[lee cox]

So if you joint some cedar with a real Byrd head will it be smooth enough so women's hose will not catch on it. My Delta is very smooth after jointing cedar using knives.

[Andrew Hughes]

It should be smooth enough Lee might even be a little burnished due to the scraping angle of the bryd head.
But the inserts would still need to be fairly sharp.
The bryd insert has a slight radius to the edge that makes it surface obviously different then sharp knives.

[lee cox]

Go to know. I have friend which builds furniture for money. He is good but I think he still uses knives. At least over year ago when I toured his shop. He built a new house and shop. We are all old which may have something to do with it.

[Jim Sprester]

I have a Grizzly 0490x and like it. I have had it for several years now with no problems. I did notice that a few people have complained about some of it's maneuverability, and I guess I would somewhat agree with that, but I don't move it too much so it's not that big of a deal. I also agree with those who have said to get a 12 inch machine if possible. There have been many times that I have wished mine was a tad bigger - like now, when I have some beautiful 9,10, and 11 inch cherry and white oak that I want to use. It would be great to just run it through with any hassle.

[Andrew Minier]

I'm in MPLS too. CL is pretty limited. If your in the market, I've had great luck from these sites:
https://www.interplantsales.com/ - Eastern Mpls burbs - Ok on price, prob better than CL
https://www.machinio.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8K2n3d_e4QIVSZ7ACh1vmw-mEAAYASAAEgIlPPD_BwE -Used machines nation wide
https://www.k-bid.com/auction/list/minnesota random deals
http://www.all-bid.com/cgi-bin/mncal.cgi?allbid - about as good as kbid
https://bid.bid-2-buy.com/ - I picked u a Delta DJ-20 for $350 with Helical head on on a couple years ago from this site....
-Hope this helps!

[lowell holmes]

You might visit this site:

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Power-Tools-Woodworking-Tools-Jointers/N-5yc1vZcgk6/Ntk-Extended/Ntt-jointer+planer?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5&storeSelection=1853,6560,1859,6539,6543

[Brian Holcombe]

If a board is tearing out;

Make certain the knives are sharp

Slow your feed rate

Make certain of the grain direction.

I prefer straight knives but my friend Liam has spiral heads in his machines and they’re sharp, the finish is very nice and they’re slightly less particular about grain direction.

[Allan Speers]

FWIW, there was a 16" Oliver for sale last night on CS, NJ, for $250!
No rust, and the guy said the bearing were good.
It had a motor and everything. :)
It was gone within the hour, of course.

I actually saw it in time to bid, but where the heck do you put something like that?
Point is, you can often get great deals (OK, not THAT great) on the really big old 'arn, because folks just want them gone.

[Tim Cardinal]

Hi Andrew, we lived in Rochester MN for several years in 2000 - 2007. I picked up some very nice old tools . 18 inch Oliver bandsaw $800, Northfeild 8In jointer I think I payed $1200.. I wish I didn't sale them..but we moved and it was not practical to bring them.


For you folks in used tool heaven, remember that many of us live in used tool deserts. For example, in the Mpls area, on CL, there have been three. 8" jointers listed in the last 4 months. The first two were overpriced relative to new, and both were gone in a matter of days. The third got listed yesterday, a PJ882 "new in crate" for $2000. After that for the entire state of MN, there are currently 7 other jointers listed, three gad-awful 6" Craftsmans with the non adjustable outfeed table, three sub 6" jointers, and one awful jointer-planer-sander combo.

For many of us, used just isn't an option, no matter how much we would like it to be:)

[Justin Rapp]

FWIW, there was a 16" Oliver for sale last night on CS, NJ, for $250!


What is CS?

[Jim Becker]

What is CS?
Craig's List

[Justin Rapp]

Craig's List

thanks... I am used to hearing it called CL :) I guess someone got lucky to grab that jointer for dirt cheep. I scrub craigs list kinda often in NJ and so far have only seen one amazing deal on a powermatic lathe but it was a monster and i am somewhat looking for a midi.

[Carl Beckett]

And if you are working with a lot of figured stock, imo you need a drum or widebelt sander anyway. So I am not on the helix head bandwagon for a jointer. But concede that some may be having good success with it.

(my Grizzly 8" sold for $450. And I bought a used 12" which was $1200 as I recall. Although prices have went up, $2k seems like a lot for a 8" jointer)

[Chapel Eastland]

The $1755 delivered and in my workshop price for a Grizzly G0858 8" jointer is relative. I have the money, I want it, therefore I got it. My research told me it gave the best bang for my bucks. Others may not reach the same conclusion.

There are those who will buy a Dodge Ram for $50,000 plus or a Mercedes for $80,000 plus. In 80,000 miles the value of those vehicles will be 25-30% of retail if that, plus as they age they become money pits.

My jointer in 8 years may require new cutters for around $200.00 and if history remains as it has, will still be worth 40-50% of new retail. Plus, my jointer won't be a money pit.

That's what I mean by the cost basis of products being relative. I wouldn't have a Dodge Ram or Mercedes as they have no value to me. My 8" jointer does.

Thank goodness we live in a free market.

[Chris Hachet]

Man, $2k for an 8” jointer. My $.02, if you have even a little mechanical ability, try to find a used jointer for less than half that. Jointers don’t have many things to go wrong.

And unless you have money to spend, a helical head in a jointer doesn’t make a lot of sense. That jointed board will be planed, so if you’re going to helical route the planer is much more important.

Where are you located?

But... shiny new toys can be fun, I get it. I prefer dirty old toys that I can fix it up and save money.

This times ten thousand.

[Chapel Eastland]

After searching for a used jointer for three months and finding nothing but overpriced junk and behind-the-barn broken rust-buckets, I could keep looking and still not have a jointer.

I get that you prefer dirty old toys. I prefer to get a jointer that works today and can start woodworking.

That's why I chose to pay cash for a new one.

[Mike Kees]

Chapel you had the money ,you wanted it, therefore you got it. Hope you are happy with it. Why do you have to be so forceful with your opinions ?

[Carl Beckett]

The $1755 delivered and in my workshop price for a Grizzly G0858 8" jointer is relative. I have the money, I want it, therefore I got it. My research told me it gave the best bang for my bucks. Others may not reach the same conclusion.


Sorry I missed it that you had already pulled the trigger. No justification of decision making needed.

That is awesome, a great product and you will enjoy it!!

[Chapel Eastland]

Didn't realize I was being forceful in my opinions. I thought it was a give and take conversation.

Sorry if you were triggered.

[Chapel Eastland]

Sorry I missed it that you had already pulled the trigger. No justification of decision making needed.

That is awesome, a great product and you will enjoy it!!

Thanks. If I could have found a old dirty toy I would have tried it as I enjoy restorations. But alas, I'm in the land where Shopsmiths and rusted hulks of Craftsman reign supreme.

[Mike Kees]

Chapel I am happy for you,hope you enjoy that new machine. I have said this before,but only you can decide how to spend your money,and what you really want. O crap we have done it again,what happened to the O.P. ?:D

[Chapel Eastland]

Thanks. I do think the OP can gain insight from this thread. Lot's of viewpoints and ideas.

[Allan Speers]

What is CS?


Craigslist, North Jersey.

Believe it or not, it's been re-listed!

I have no room for it, but someone should snag it. OMG....

[jim carter]

i bought a 6 3/4" makita hand planer for $60 at a garage sale and with a few pieces of wood, turned it into a jointer. with a planer, why do you need a wide jointer?

[jim carter]

i also built a router table that i can plane burls up to 3' x 3' x 12" with my router. with that and a smaller jointer, you dont need that wide of a jointer.

[Chapel Eastland]

i also built a router table that i can plane burls up to 3' x 3' x 12" with my router. with that and a smaller jointer, you dont need that wide of a jointer.

You may not. I do.

[Chapel Eastland]

i bought a 6 3/4" makita hand planer for $60 at a garage sale and with a few pieces of wood, turned it into a jointer. with a planer, why do you need a wide jointer?

For boards wider than 6 3/4 inches.

[jim carter]

For boards wider than 6 3/4 inches.
i use the jointer for the edges of boards up to 5". i use my 13" planer for anything wider. if i need to square pieces larger than that i use a router table i built that can do 3' x 3' x 12"+ thick. total cost for all - less than $500. use your brain instead of your pocketbook.

[Chapel Eastland]

i use the jointer for the edges of boards up to 5". i use my 13" planer for anything wider. if i need to square pieces larger than that i use a router table i built that can do 3' x 3' x 12"+ thick. total cost for all - less than $500. use your brain instead of your pocketbook.

Sorry. We all can't be the self-styled genius you think you are.

[Monte Milanuk]

So... kinda related to some of the recommendations to "go bigger"... been cruising CL, knowing full well that there probably won't be anything 'local' but with Seattle and Portland a few hours away, plenty of bigger stuff shows up on a somewhat regular basis.

Most recently, I see a 16" 10 HP 480 volt 3 phase machine for sale... for $800. I've read about people using inverters to run 'big iron' on 220v shop circuits... never made sense or appealed to me before, but dang, this almost makes me wonder if it'd be worth it?

[Anton Leimbach]

First time poster.

Chris, I bought the Grizzly 12” Jointer a few months ago and I love it. Not trying to sway you either way, just letting you know about my experience. I had no problems setting it up and love the extra table length and width. Good luck!

[jim carter]

Sorry. We all can't be the self-styled genius you think you are.

since i can do with my router table the same thing you want to do with a wide jointer, then i must be a genius. there are more than 1 way to skin a cat.

[jim carter]

i can do longer wood also.

[Chapel Eastland]

since i can do with my router table the same thing you want to do with a wide jointer, then i must be a genius. there are more than 1 way to skin a cat.

I anxiously await news of your Macarthur fellowship.

[jim carter]

I anxiously await news of your Macarthur fellowship.

they told me i was over qualified.

[Jim Becker]

since i can do with my router table the same thing you want to do with a wide jointer, then i must be a genius. there are more than 1 way to skin a cat.

Jim, I'm sure that how you have things setup works fine for you. But we are all individuals with different needs and wants.

A jointer isn't just for edges. It's also to flatten lumber before it gets thicknessed in the planer. Actually, that's my primary use as I rarely edge joint on the jointer since Ihave a sliding saw that I can straight-line material after it's flat and thicknesses. I buy wide lumber and also occasionally want/need to send odd-sized/shaped things across the knives. I have 13.68"/350mm of width available with my particular Jointer/Plainer combo and often wish I would have purchased the 16"/410mm wide model for more capacity.

[jim carter]

Jim, I'm sure that how you have things setup works fine for you. But we are all individuals with different needs and wants.

A jointer isn't just for edges. It's also to flatten lumber before it gets thicknessed in the planer. Actually, that's my primary use as I rarely edge joint on the jointer since Ihave a sliding saw that I can straight-line material after it's flat and thicknesses. I buy wide lumber and also occasionally want/need to send odd-sized/shaped things across the knives. I have 13.68"/350mm of width available with my particular Jointer/Plainer combo and often wish I would have purchased the 16"/410mm wide model for more capacity.


i understand. im just saying that if i cant afford to buy a 16" jointer, i can figure out another way to do the same thing. did you see the picture of the burl i did? if that was a 12' x 2' x 3" piece i could do the same.

[Myk Rian]

i use the jointer for the edges of boards up to 5". i use my 13" planer for anything wider. if i need to square pieces larger than that i use a router table i built that can do 3' x 3' x 12"+ thick. total cost for all - less than $500. use your brain instead of your pocketbook.
Not exactly the way to make friends around here.

[jim carter]

Sorry. We all can't be the self-styled genius you think you are.
i apologize for my snarky comments.

[Steve Harman]

You might visit this site:

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Power-Tools-Woodworking-Tools-Jointers/N-5yc1vZcgk6/Ntk-Extended/Ntt-jointer+planer?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5&storeSelection=1853,6560,1859,6539,6543

Way too expensive!