12" blade, 1" arbor - stiff sawblade?

[andrew whicker]

Hi,

I'm working with white oak and I'd like to attach two pieces end to end. Thought was to cut a miter cut on each board to increase glue surface area and add dowel rods to further help with glue surface area.

I was hoping to cut the boards with my miter saw, however I've noticed some deflection in the blade before. Is there a good 12" blade / 1" arbor that is stiff enough to avoid deflection? This cut needs to be accurate. I just have my 'came with the saw' blade on it now.

The oak cross section is 7" x 1.5". Top of the piece is wider (7") and height of the piece is 1.5", In other words, the miter will need to be made by tilting the head of the saw.

My saw: Bosch 12" compound (GCM12SD)

Thoughts on blade that will reduce deflection or different method? Also have dado blades for the TS, could do something else entirely I suppose.

Cheers,

[Alan Schwabacher]

If you want to join pieces end to end with strength, a scarf joint is a good option. An 8:1 scarf (8 times as long as its width) is strong enough to bend the joined part without risk of breaking. Canoe gunwales and other wooden boat components can be joined this way.

To see how, search for "scarf joint router jig".

[Tom M King]

Amana makes a thicker than normal blade that is very stiff.

[robert wiggins]

Blade stabilizers are available, but some saw arbors won't allow the extra thickness. A dull blade is sometimes responsible for deflection and miters are a good place for the blade to be in top condition.

[andrew whicker]

Thanks guys. I'll see what I can do. My blade is getting dull and I'm pushing the life too long at this point. I forgot about the washers / blade stabilizers.