Minimax MM16

[jack dempsey]

Hello,
I am looking for some help with some basic bandsaw knowledge. Specifically, properly tensioning the blade. I do not have any experience setting up a saw. My experience is limited to using a bandsaw after it has been in operation and set up by someone else. I took the plunge and purchased a Minimax MM16. The instruction manual leaves a lot to be desired. Additionally, the gauge that is attached is supposed to give you a guide as to proper tensioning but I believe it is of little use. I am attempting to properly tension a 1/2" blade and could use some advice. Thanks, Jack

[Rob Cohen]

Jack
You are correct that the gauge is of little use. Your saw is capable of putting way more tension a a 1/2" blade than you need do proceed carefully.
I assume you are aware of how to properly track the blade and setup the guides. You can use the" flutter "method to rough in the tension.
Just increase the tension gradually until the blade cuts well

[Edwin Santos]

Jack,

Not trying to be argumentative, but I disagree with both opinions that the gauge is of little use. I think it is both useful and repeatable once you have an established tension point.

Did you buy your saw new? If so, then the rep should be able to provide some guidance.

I own the MM20 (s500P).
This is a cliff's notes version of what the rep Sam Blasco has told me - Assuming you do not own a tension meter, install the blade, find a point 6" from the upper wheel. Stand with your shoulders parallel to the wheel. Pushing sidewasy with your right arm crossing your body (so you don't lean in to the test), you want to see 1/8"-1/4" of deflection pushing with moderate pressure, no body weight behind your finger. Track the blade where you want it on the wheel. With no guides set or zero clearance dust block installed, turn on the machine and observe for flutter. If you see any, add more tension with the saw running until the blade stops fluttering.

Set your guides, thrust bearings and make a test cut on a 6" resaw. Does it cut easy, straight, no wander? If yes, then you have found a good starting point for tension. Make a few more cuts to be sure you feel good about this tension point and if you do, make a pencil mark on your gauge and now you can now reliably come back to that tension point whenever you want. I have a mark on my gauge for a 1/4", 1/2" and 1" blade. In this way the gauge is very useful.

Very important that you do this test with a sharp, trusted blade. Not one with a weld issue or near the end of it's life. Also, tension is subjective. Some people use more or less tension depending on the job they are doing. Personally I don't think you need as much tension for a rip cut through 4/4 stock as you do for a 8" resaw. A blade will cut well at different tensions so there is not one narrow precise bulls-eye that you need to try and hit that will work for all operations, at least in my opinion.

Beware of using the "flutter test" by itself. A blade will go in and out of flutter at different points. So I suggest deflection followed by observation for flutter.

Hope this helps you, congrats on your saw acquisition. It's a very well made saw that should serve you well.
Edwin

[Jim Becker]

I kinda agree with Edwin. Initially, yes...there can be challenges determining what is the right tension for a given blade and it's not just based on size, but also type/manufacturer...but once one is beyond that point, the machine's tensioning read-out is repeatable. I marked mine with a few scribed lines years ago in that respect.

[jack dempsey]

Rob, Thanks for the information. I was not aware of the "flutter" but have since found it online. I will begin there and proceed.

[jack dempsey]

Edwin,
Thanks for taking the time to share all of this information. I will go from there beginning with the 1/8" to 1/4" amount of deflection then proceed with the flutter method. I imagine it takes experience and repeated attempts. Again, thanks for the help. Jack

[jack dempsey]

Thanks Jim. Once I have tried a few times and get a little more comfortable I will mark the gauge for repeatability. Jack

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I use the flutter method on my MM-16 with good results. The key, as in most things, is to get some experience. Practice, adjust the tracking, tension and then do some cuts. Then detension, take a break, come back, and repeat the previous sentence's recommendation.

I like my MM-16!

[jack dempsey]

Ken, Thanks and in my case good advice. That is have some patience (something I lack at times). Jack

[Bill Space]

Just a thought, as the OP stated he is new to bandsaw tuneup.

I think the MM bandsaws are designed with flat wheels and for the blade teeth to overhang the wheel edge. If so, the OP should keep this in mind as much of what is available, regarding bandsaw set up, applies to crowned wheel bandsaws. Could be confusing until one is aware of this.

Just a thought, and perhaps someone can confirm if the MM16 is indeed a flat wheeled bandsaw...

Bill

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bill the MM-16 is, in fact, a flat topped wheel with no crowns. Thus, I run my blades with the teeth hanging over the edge except for the narrow blades (1/4") which I do center on the wheel.

[John TenEyck]

Jack, for the cost of a cheap dial gauge and an hour of your time you can measure the tension in any BS blade you want. Here's one I built based on a YouTube video I saw.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N2Vdk9Tt1Ru_GrcyOheyQKps3dGiLoyccUSoxmxT1fw8O3rGCr x4cf_vPMhaNiCwTYuYHiHliiTkY3dJ9o3DzZp9_N7vTQ-IL3ARFFMe3Cnyli1slLGMD7J2fKMufcWF-mRUz8v16jGvbZQNHZBqazATy_Du4T9uKJxaJ7SLnnMfXXcYqBS Y8BUe_KWic4DmEqVHXy1n1ThO0KWHg6NByjNTxKT6lKrOHWUU3 byOvZ0wQNlBcsLr9om1BAVd14M28gVzs1pWghoRXfgh2TbNvqR Vj9RwdPYemlz_tJT-gMuP_UUZ66HGENAafsxywtSYzQ_H9ZsIHKsfVub-JgmjcgjEIR_a0P_Oz2WfiyERadpav35YUXoDNbM4RZpNLgv5lX _ut2Nr5GsLmzOjxOQuK4m3iR1PpHImZ-E726GMttDNathDREeBq3gg6rnHi9JB2uYkB_HAUHhsTLjJ_Bgd YS_CxiZ5GzXFkCbwtmfJYwwb3Hg3Xb7stWstoxG1f_qEuxrIwT wHgdzLw0J2us5MGh5yCFZOaXYBbaIJC9i4lB-K-_itNqaaJF-LshUNcLsUqV65LurMqYCiy1OuZa78ND9rPqUd0ZPYA45RjIyrw N2w_O7_6rQM56_idn7kJ-Z1U7BJGjtzsME17EeqcC0GZqiCMZXOw6LuO_O_pkuMWPKt8t48 zliRH5xpoGVdvKv8pcMYwF2SN1iA-f3pFsvnxwqdrA=w835-h626-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HPRBbpgUh-1Ymx6QE7veeHRYOtHpPcAX-Otf391xZT5_S10xOACAPpnvFsc-h-Xp7Lx-2QxvuOao8cC92-BZsrVO2S8rG28D1LP-TOWTXZe8J9KXkAJUOS6eV8jpmQdJoWhjm3Uob6nQ3hnSlbrf0Z ukgl8hzGr9Xlb5k_DIHz-rbvLPPT-_-tiUSJznNEwGRGEVlEJQc54lsA57chohJLWSucEH2kgDRcLUdle 0dmD0exykW_NFyYJCRqpbfupl9RizLoO7Cedp42G8cdnGqAuhV 5dx_a5efzlkb8bLYEQl2g9xfjQDAQL0Rn4wB_vMljMze-xuPCZ9mNVyTM9ShHxmj7v_gRr6oAXZ1BuGqQmglOX0NNl6YKF5 HBbBq_FCDxwg2aS6pbVrZ6lsIZDI-abB67pbHFUJY8MzCqkr_PvYLwRduO2Z1iowtlicwF_CHBPN7uP opbf_RHLpROKbvuamxQiDWB59ou4FvTW2t8-kv1MtGUEPjOGYH6HxmRSkTnJXoXV3lZDxV-EQpmSo7qWVSvd02uj3fIUZ479zT4gfxvHsoolK_HVBiHuYcjMY drzF54-Xb8n_RLtorUqS8zfnMTScbdPBKuzH-HEg-A8POkxWspWnDI66K-HorgmQatSG8AgULzgxpjuvqA0q7RB1ZayofdhzE5AbqMtO9S1H ihnNzOlrLhkHbtiXSAXpNVNX9hobU8x19grvswNak_QvJw=w83 5-h626-no

It has a 12" gage length which would work well on your MM16, too. With just a little simple math you can easily find the tension in any blade. To use it you lower the tension in the blade to zero, so the blade is snug on the wheels and w/o slack. Put the meter on the blade, tighten the clamps snug, and set the dial gage to zero. Now add tension to the blade. As you do the dial gage will reflect the stretch in the blade. OK, now the math. For every 0.001" the dial gage moves, the tension in the blade increases by 2500 psi:

Young's Modulus = Stress/Strain

Young's Modulus of steel = 30,000,000 psi

Strain = Dial gage/12" gage length

Stress = 30,000,000 x 0.001/12 = 2500 psi.

I used the meter check the tension of a 1" blade vs. the on board tension indicator:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/my8o2ZMs7EZz_8iBWpv1oFPNGMjZkzaZMMiChddp5eqlfrABLY hZmFLCoqVANXj5PDmHknNJV2EDF2I1IY2RuwxaQ6S1ko_2tflz fkeXxqoK3e4ud5Ri3oueTzyvEXDrE7vVzNle318r0Yz5h8EzjH gnzmDGnd4Gw89j_CbuX9CX7tL1XGN0Nv4_GM_Li0S4FljalAgw jHO3b52VnSNOCg2o2JVt2PQ4TGpsno95mZqzJKA3PdY0b2H5fk kwzZbCHfiV0YtejdxJPiDv9jWbnb_1GOE5lhkzutO9FHhEsNq9 nb__63QZUuWz2dSDJvG0Q0zKVvjJvrGZMrXK3OmFk9IH_PAHso aNCtVouvKikJEvTOe5T1b_5PGk0qS3-NoMxSzV8CPr6CriWnMilTIq4gCSnuIxpKGRxKWBmM2ADtjIdfb kzrsZQIegbUg0p7JKTn4AwhpGC66plW-7ndle9vJYLxfbhlF7vXuK7gUqQ3Ra7hhUvczK8voxvuyE-JkDlKRb66o6sgv2kf8AO7gbhj_DuSwhfxApSrKjNMD-DT_MMbV_x1tOMKcZ_8KFhbtayifqlVfOK4fqp8UcKvMAhr9Doq S-q1MIn4P9TqOlurY0DcavpZYVOzsS498Hn90xgava9URah3xIWE lrt1F5bcNCsKar98H67BzUIW1ByUw-OyTEyjKohw4cOijgmQ4lxYE-yUKrkodhGDF740JCURYl6g=w835-h626-no


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_VVY4COiXuNjjGYlgXqPMRPlZwh16MDwx39p1aDdd3LX1p8UpM UnWoTpy9Dp549malUZIBIIboWv6w-DD9rIBIEFPT5sMcGu8WQWJnDnemi_os3QOIl-CIDy2Dz9FWeOESoOMcmDyyoGW50fNFvhoMetcvVF7NsJxatfmA bq7tHZp8zhZwDYsMViXClpaIUYvR3_3PkioL02XpfgT_CBMJMU 8p_6x40PEFC9fpXcQXjfFNpGIaRbSqdf2LahdBfWYZzTmbgVb6 MWvqlr7hFbtt0vWnUDwYlHQK9QGN3G68z4-0JBd92oxPQ3peyjqbmmC0-5_QPrbX5mLGKz0xrIA9scdLOYb-23BGpQz0xV35LrQNBFlvTKkws64XUQw4UzHIiCHorqDbuWoKDM UNKdjfd6LJggUgsQ8yrDAZ5ueXfNAwjiJOYQljqAJf2iUaQ9W-rME9bYpXAzxq8xaIM4vci6QxfnPeiN5ymB6weev1sBNKtkdo4G ox2NIQYu_iUzX0CL6m-7F06vOTAOXFeXmGqNaAE-6ov4FBT0CdV6Py3LwvThPrmsDnhcDgZcegLl2FYvTTgnHodhTm 7VgGbAjgB9pwQ1sk0WrPrUuUut8NwqQTzWxL6FC6fPC23pSYfH i52Uu6EG3Z7K5gFcSxCj0d1ot5JiVCn-bBRM3Mpc6pTHMZJKcv4r4iYNRr_vNCSEboAPYqGaXw7o9RjLk9 mvdeoazQ=w835-h626-no

The dial gage showed 0.010" corresponding to a tension of 25,000 psi.

You don't need a tension meter to get good performance from your bandsaw, but using one will allow you to put just a little science behind determining how to set your saw's tension. However, if you plan to run a carbide blade on your saw then I strongly suggest you use a meter to calibrate your saw before doing so. Carbide blades need 25 K psi or more for optimal performance, and running one at lower tension may compromise both performance and life.

John

[jack dempsey]

John,
Thanks for the information. Wow, although initially seems a little daunting. After reviewing several times I may be inclined to search for the information on line. I would like to add a bit of certainty to this. Thanks again. Jack

[Jim Becker]

Jack, honestly...don't over-think it or fret about it too much!