Can I run this across my jointer?

[Michael Costa]

It's the end grain of a glue up using splines that didnt quite make it to perfect. Or am I just asking for trouble?407482

It's too big for any sander I have. Orbital isn't working well.
In hindsight, I should have over sized it then cut it down. Live and learn.

[Richard Coers]

The wood will blow out as the last board crosses the cutter head. If you can back it up tightly with a scrap, or clamp on a longer scrap board, it could work. Block plane will also work. I would put a straightedge on it with support on the last end, and run a router across it.

[Todd Mason-Darnell]

I think you would be asking for trouble/bigger problem. It is hard to tell from the picture how much you need to clean up. I would stick to a block plane or sand, sand, sand.

[Matt Day]

Definitely not the jointer. You could use the tablesaw with a miter sled or crosscut sled, you could use a flush trim bit and a router, you can use a circular saw. Many ways to do it but anyone would need cleanup with planing and or sanding afterward.

Whenever I do glue ups, I make them about 2 inches longer than final size and at least a half inch wider. After the glue dries, I cut to size lengthwise. And sometimes there are clamping marks or something on the side grain that I take off with the tablesaw.

[Dan Baginski]

Just run it through a table saw or a straight edge and a circular saw

[Michelle Rich]

Sure, but not when it is running :-) :-)

[johnny means]

I do it often to trim door panels and such. I take tiny cuts and lift the piece of the cutter before finishing the cut. I then sand the nub flush. It's no different than edging a board on a shaper.

[Mark Hennebury]

Sure you can run it over the jointer .. without any problem.
Several options;
1. Back it up as already mentioned, clamp a block to the end. Chamfer the block)
2. with no block: you can just cut a chamfer on the exit end. As long as the chamfer is a little more than you are cutting.
3. Run it in an inch the turn it around. (Still best if you cut a small chamfer on the exit end, but not 100% nessesary.)

[Tom Bain]

Personally, I would clamp a guide board to the piece and then use a router with a flush trim bit to make the end completely flush

[Michael Costa]

I was at the point in which I was going to rebuild so I went for it. It worked much better than expected. Only a little tear out on one side. Sanding helped that. Being black helper it more. And that part would be out of sight too.

[Anuj Prateek]

I tried doing something similar on finger jointed craft board from Lowes. Tried both jointer and router. In both cases, end of the board tore out.

Suggestions mentioned in the thread work. I mostly use a router to true the end grain side. Chamfer on the end or a little kerf solves the tear out problem.

FWIW will add one more to list.

Put a clamp across the edge getting jointed. Just a little shy of the edge. Then when you run it over jointer, ends don't get damaged. Came across similar tip for edge planing, so tried on jointer and it worked. Be careful to leave clearance between edge and clamp.

[robert wiggins]

I do it often to trim door panels and such. I take tiny cuts and lift the piece of the cutter before finishing the cut. I then sand the nub flush. It's no different than edging a board on a shaper.

That's how I do it and rotate to opposite end each trip. As mentioned tiny cuts plus razor sharp set of blades is a must. With some practice there may not be a nub that's worthy of mentioning.

[Yonak Hawkins]

The wood will blow out as the last board crosses the cutter head. If you can back it up tightly with a scrap, or clamp on a longer scrap board, it could work. Block plane will also work. I would put a straightedge on it with support on the last end, and run a router across it.

Splintering at the end of running end grain through a jointer can be mitigated by pushing it into the cut by a small amount, say, 1/2"~3/4" or so, then turning it around and pushing it through. Make sure the end is square and, while maintaining full contact of the board end to the jointer surface, put pressure on the leading edge of the board as you finish. There may still be a small amount of splintering. As always, practice makes perfect.

As you might guess, any end grain jointing on a long board would be challenging to impossible as the board would tend to rock both side to side and back and forth.

[scott vroom]

I've done as Yonak describes a few times in the past with decent results. The key is to make sure when feeding to avoid the leading edge dipping into the cutter, DAMHIK.

All of that type of trimming now gets done on the Hammer K3 using the outrigger cross cut fence. I routinely oversize cabinet doors and clean up/square up the ends this way.






Splintering at the end of running end grain through a jointer can be mitigated by pushing it into the cut by a small amount, say, 1/2"~3/4" or so, then turning it around and pushing it through. Make sure the end is square and, while maintaining full contact of the board end to the jointer surface, put pressure on the leading edge of the board as you finish. There may still be a small amount of splintering. As always, practice makes perfect.

As you might guess, any end grain jointing on a long board would be challenging to impossible as the board would tend to rock both side to side and back and forth.