Item stuck in tailstock, can't seem to remove

[Glen Kingston]

I just recently purchased a used Vicmarc VL100 lathe used from a school nearby that had 3 for sale up on an auction site. I also bought a MT2 live center for it after verifying in the manual that was the size it took. Unfortunately, there seems to be something jammed or put in there on purpose.

At first I thought it was maybe an adapter sleeve to go from MT2 to MT1, but I measured the opening and am pretty sure that isn't it either. It is 0.38 inches in diameter. The hole also goes all the way through to I can't put a rod from the backend all the way out the front

I've tried about everything I can think of to get it out but have been unsuccessful so far. I've tried wrenching it, PB blaster, heating it up, screwing a bolt extractor in and then a rod to try and pound it out, a combination of all the above.

I'd love any suggestions someone might have to remove it. I'm at the point now where I'll try about anything. Also, if someone knows what it maybe, that would at least be interesting at this point :o

[Don Bunce]

Looks like an adaptor of some sort. If you remove the quill from the tailstock, you should be able to use a rod to push it out.

[Jim Barkelew]

Take it apart and heat it in an oven to 350-400 F. Quench the offending piece only in ice water. Then try to pound it apart.

[John Keeton]

You might consider removing the quill and submerging it in liquid wrench or antifreeze before attempting to drive out the seized part.

[richard shelby]

If you can get a bearing puller on it......

[Richard Coers]

Oh good Lord, someone has been on that thing many times with a pipe wrench. Twisting almost never works to break a taper free. Is there a through hole in the hand wheel? Stand it up and get some Kroll in there for a few days. Then start tapping a metal rod through to see if the taper breaks loose.

[Glen Kingston]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll see what I can get to this next weekend

Oh good Lord, someone has been on that thing many times with a pipe wrench. Twisting almost never works to break a taper free. Is there a through hole in the hand wheel? Stand it up and get some Kroll in there for a few days. Then start tapping a metal rod through to see if the taper breaks loose.
Yes, there is a hole all the way through. This makes the rod suggestions somewhat difficult so far. 1/2" is too big to get in the back. 3/8 will go in and is smaller then the MT2 taper in the spinde, so I tried a 3/8 and and got the 3/8 rod all the way out the front of the piece in there. The piece in there is hollow all the way through and if you look down the spindle with a flashlight, you can see just the ridges where the sleeve in there is. It's like a small bump you can catch a screwdrvier or a rod on if you angle it when shoving it in the backside, but I haven't had any luck trying to push it out.

I'm going to give the soaking and possibly the more serious heating a shot.

If you can get a bearing puller on it......
I'll look into this and see

I got so frustrated today, I decided to try living with it and I ground a 1/4" threaded rod to a point, stuck that through, washered/bolted it down, and used it as a dead center. My son and I were able to get it working a bit and had a some fun this evening at least.

[Bert Delisle]

Your best bet would be to remove the quill from the tailstock, very easy remove the handle and the two set screws that hold the quill bushing. Once the quill is removed out the the advancing screw can be removed and the central bore of the quill will be accessible to use a drift punch on. If that doesn't work a machine shop could chuck up the quill and cut out the offending pieces. If all else fails buy a new quill assembly from Vicmarc, I just bought one for a VL300, ( 150.00 CAN plus 25.00 shipping).

[Harold Wright]

This is the best solution. I had the same problem. Went to parts store with a machine shop. $20 and 30 minutes and I was on my way.

[david privett]

I would suggest a soak and find the correct size tap thread the existing hole put a bolt in it and use a slide hammer also when you put a bolt in it ,it no longer has a hole so you could press the insert out.

[Jason Mikits]

Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but did you just try to unscrew the tail stock. There's usually a "wall" it will hit and a light tap in the "unscrew" direction will free it up and let it fall out. After a hiatus from turning, I thought my live center was stuck until I remembered to just unscrew it.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

If you remove the handle that locks the tailstock ram, you then start extending the ram all the way out, you can pull the ram right out of the tailstock, you might have to hold the ram, as it could turn around without the handle stopping the ram from turning in the tailstock.

You have now a large opening, as large as the screw in the tailstock, and you can drive that taper out easily with a drift and hammer.

407468

[Richard Coers]

Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but did you just try to unscrew the tail stock. There's usually a "wall" it will hit and a light tap in the "unscrew" direction will free it up and let it fall out. After a hiatus from turning, I thought my live center was stuck until I remembered to just unscrew it.

It's called self-ejecting.

[David DeCristoforo]

Get a big pair of vice grips and honk down on the protruding end of the insert. Then, after a good soak in any creep in oil, tap on the vice grips and you should be able to knock the thing out.

[David C. Roseman]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll see what I can get to this next weekend
[snip]



Glen, oh no! You mean we have to wait another week to see how this ends? :D

[JohnC Lucas]

Pull the quill out. Drill a hole sideways through the stuck piece. Put a rod through the stuck piece. Drive a wedge between the rod and the face of the quill. It should come out. I would soak it thoroughly with PB blaster and tap on it with a mallet to create vibrations so the penetrant will get in better. I do this for several days, several times a day. Then use the wedge.

[david privett]

well with all these different methods for the removal did you get it out and when you do check the quill insides for galling it might need to be dressed up some.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Would be nice if the OP let us know what he did to get the stuck piece out, acknowledge at least peoples effort to help him out.

[Robert Henrickson]

Would be nice if the OP let us know what he did to get the stuck piece out, acknowledge at least peoples effort to help him out.

In message #7 he thanked people and said that it would be this coming weekend before he would be able to do much with the advice.

[David C. Roseman]

In message #7 he thanked people and said that it would be this coming weekend before he would be able to do much with the advice.

Yes, and I'm just noticing that Glen joined SMC only last month. :)

BTW, welcome to the Forum, Glen! (Leo is really a nice guy. ;) As well as an amazing turner who's helped many of us over the years.)

[Peter Christensen]

I would tap the hole of the adapter with whatever thread I could make work. Then put a piece of pipe or stack of washers against the quill. Put a bolt or ready rod in and tighten it against the washers/pipe and the adaptor should pull right out.