Plane restoration questions

[Gary Ragatz]

I'm embarking on my first attempt to restore a vintage plane. My objective is to end up with a user - it's not for show or for resale, so I'm not too concerned with "authenticity."

I bought a Stanley Bailey No. 5 on eBay. It's a Type 18, so 1946-47 vintage. Since this is my first attempt at restoring a plane, I was looking for something that was in pretty good shape to start (didn't want to try bringing it back from the dead). This is what I got:

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It's actually in a little better condition than I expected. Moderate surface rust, a few small nicks in the toe and heel. Japanning is almost entirely intact. Tote and knob are both solid. Some pitting on the lever cap, but nothing tragic. A little Evapo-Rust and Scotch Brite, and things are looking pretty good so far.

I have a couple of questions.

(1) The cap screw seems to be some kind of DIY kluge. It's solid enough, but will be a bit of an inconvenience, as the washer is larger than the opening in the plane iron, so I'll have to completely remove the screw to work on the iron - I can't just turn them perpendicular and free the iron. I've found replacement cap screws on-line for $9-10. Is that the best I can do, or is there a less expensive source?

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(2) The finish on the tote is solid black. The knob looks like it had the same finish, but it's flaking off. Where the black has flaked off the knob, it looks like there's some attractive wood underneath. I'm thinking I'd like to remove the black finish and go with a more natural look. Any suggestions for what type of finish to use on these parts?

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Thanks.

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Gary,

One thing unique about planes of your type is it was a one year only for the depth adjuster having the knurling at an angle.

For the tote and knob, they can be left bare and coated with a wax/oil mixture, coated with shellac or just about anything that will stick to wood.

If you want something to read on fettling old planes here is an old post:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?114373

jtk

[Doug Dawson]

I'm embarking on my first attempt to restore a vintage plane. My objective is to end up with a user - it's not for show or for resale, so I'm not too concerned with "authenticity.".

I'm of the school of, What does it matter what it looks like, as long as it works right? IOW, fix the things that affect how it works before thinking about anything else.

This heretical thought brought to you by, Get the iron in good shape first. By then you'll be happily planing, and maybe nothing else will matter.

[Gary Ragatz]

Thanks, Jim - I think that thread will be helpful. I've watched a video from Paul Sellers that I thought was helpful, and have been thinking that I will, more or less, follow his process. But I'm somewhat old-school, and I like to have a written guide to follow.

Gary

[Gary Ragatz]

Thanks, Doug. I'm mostly in the same camp as you as far as utility vs. looks. The iron I received with the plane is a little rusty, with a few nicks - but I'm pretty sure I can get it into good usable shape without too much effort. But beyond that, I'd also like the plane to look good and, more important, feel good in my hands - thus, the question about the finish on the knob and tote.

[Frederick Skelly]

For the tote and knob... I usually strip the finish (especially if painted), then sand and shellac or tung oil finish. But there's nothing magic about that - just personal preference.

Be sure to post pics when you get her done!
Fred

[steven c newman]

happen to have one about the same "Vintage"...
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Stanley iron, has a bit of a camber to it....smooth sole ( sold the grooved one a while back...

[Rick Whitehead]

The screw thread on the cap iron screw is 5/16-18 BSW (British Standard Whitworth). It is similar to the US 5/16-18 NC (National Coarse) threads, except the Whitworth threads are 55 degrees, instead of the 60 degree US standard.
A US 5/16-18 bolt will sort of fit, as the previous owner found out. However, the bolt head is too small to span the slot in the iron, as they also found out, which is probably why they added the washer.
I'm afraid that you're going to have to find a used cap iron screw on eBay or from a tool dealer. Stanley used to sell parts direct, at reasonable prices. However, they turned their parts service over to DeWalt Servicenet, which currently has almost no parts available, and those they do have are high-priced.
Good luck with the restoration! Looks like you're doing well on it!
Rick

[Stew Denton]

Gary,

A couple thoughts. Stanley used "odd" treads on some of their planes. This may mean that if you buy a original cap screw, the threads may have been buggered up by the replacement machine screw/bolt, and no longer be right for the original cap screw threads.

The most important thing to work on is the sharpness of the iron, and the fit of the cap iron/chip breaker against the iron. I would work on those two things first. The link Jim put in may address those two things.

With regard to the tote and knob. After you strip and sand them down, and get them ready to refinish, you have several options, and different folks here each have their favorite. If in a hurry/pressed for time, I use spray lacquer, followed by a few coats of paste wax. If not in a hurry I use polyurethane followed by a few coats of paste wax. The polyurethane is incredibly tough and long lasting in my experience. Some folks don't like the "Plastic Like" feel of the poly U, thus some of the other options.

Your plane looks in pretty good shape, so I don't think you have far to go.

Stew

[Gary Ragatz]

Be sure to post pics when you get her done!
Fred

Will do. It'll probably be a couple weeks - this is one of those things that I'm working on when I have a few minutes to spare, here and there.

[Gary Ragatz]

Rick,

Thanks for the details on the screw. I was going to take the cap to my local Ace Hardware and see if they had anything that might work (long shot, I know).

I got all excited when I found the screw at stanleytoolparts.com (for only $1.50), but then learned what you mention - the part had been "moved" to DeWalt's Servicenet (where it's "no longer available").

Gary

[Gary Ragatz]

Stew,

Thanks for your input. A generous fellow-Creeker is going to help me out with the cap screw. I hadn't thought about the possibility that the previous owner's kluge had altered the threads. If that turns out to be the case, I guess an alternative is to see if I can find/create a smaller washer that would allow me to separate the cap and iron without taking the screw all the way out.

I'm in no big rush on the re-hab, so all options for finishing are on the table. I might do some type of "mock-up" and see how the poly feels in my hand.

Best,
Gary

[Eric Danstrom]

Or a Hock blade and chipbreaker, comes with the screw.....