rails and stiles dimentions advice

[Bob Cooper]

i'm building a vanity and i'd like to use narrower stiles -- mostly 1" vs. 2". Are there any issues i should be concerned with when doing this? See the attached picture (lower left corner of the picture for details).

also i'm planning on having the side and internal (between the drawers and door area) dividers which are on either side of the drawers be flush to the stile on the drawer side. Any concern there?

Lastly, do the heights seem about right?

thanks,

Bob C

[Charles McCracken]

Bob,

For the 1" widths are you referring to the face frames? If so just make them without face frames (Euro Style) and all should be well.

Charles M
Freud America, Inc.

[Anthony Anderson]

Bob, I am with Charles on this one. But if you want to use face frames I would go with 1.5" on the stiles and rails that surround the perimeter of the carcass, and with the rails that divide the drawers you could go with 1.25". If you want to go with the 1", as Charles said, go frameless and edge band, or rip some solid wood strips, for the front of the plywood edge that shows, assuming that you are using ply. I have just tried pocket holes and I love it. The pocket holes work well down to 1.25" but at 1" you are running out of room to get two screws into the face frames as the manf. recommends. Good Luck. Bill

[Charlie Plesums]

If you are concerned about the narrow (8 inch) raised panels with 4 inch or narrower field on the doors, I suggest that you go to a single larger door, rather than the double doors. The 2 inch (or 2 3/8 with trim) rails and stiles provide the strength and stability of the door. Many euro hinges require that large a space for the hinge cup.

[Bob Cooper]

guys thanks, i should have speciied that i was talking about facefames. i've thought about frameless but i've never built anything w/o a faceframe. If i go down this path it leaves me w/a couple basic questions

1) how do handle cases where the carcas touches a wall -- where you'd typically let the faceframe overhang and i could scribe the faceframe? I guess i'd also be concerned when the two cases abut...do you have problems with a gap showing between them?

2) how thick is the edge banding i would use...i'm using 3/4 plywood naturally (everything stained) for the carcases?

[James Biddle]

If you're planning on European hardware, you'll have a problem fitting the cups into that width stile.

[Russ Massery]

Most of the iron on edge banding I use is 7/8. allows for trimming.

[Brian Jarnell]

guys thanks, i should have speciied that i was talking about facefames. i've thought about frameless but i've never built anything w/o a faceframe. If i go down this path it leaves me w/a couple basic questions

1) how do handle cases where the carcas touches a wall -- where you'd typically let the faceframe overhang and i could scribe the faceframe? I guess i'd also be concerned when the two cases abut...do you have problems with a gap showing between them?

2) how thick is the edge banding i would use...i'm using 3/4 plywood naturally (everything stained) for the carcases?
Here are pics of the situation you mentioned.http://http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/brian1520/usa1.jpg

[Brian Jarnell]

Will try again.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/brian1520/usa1.jpghttp://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/brian1520/usa.jpg