can I fix this?

[Brian Runau]

Building a dresser out of walnut. One of the cross pieces holding the two sides together shifted during glue up and is short of the front by about a 1/16 or so. I think I can make the drawer work with the adjustable guides and probably best to try and not mess with it, but wanted to ask.

A twofer...

Also, the top row is divided in three sections. Two smaller drawers on either side with one larger in the middle. One of these vertical dividers shifted during glue up. It is flush on the top, but sticks past the cross piece @ 1/8" on the bottom. I think I can come at this with a Japanese saw from the fat protruding end and cut the wedge off and sand it smooth all around so it appears flush.

Open to suggestions. Thanks.

Brian

[Matt Day]

Pictures would help us understand what’s going on.

[Brian Runau]

I'll post some tonight. thanks. brian

[Malcolm McLeod]

If I'm properly visualizing your problem/questions and salvaging the assembly was my only option, I'd probably use a hand plane to flush and smooth the entire front surface: a 4 or 4-1/2 smoother if there is support; a 7 or 8 jointer if you need to span across the drawer blades and dividers. It won't be fast, but IMHO something like you describe is best solved about 2-3 thousandths at a time.

[Bill Dufour]

I would add a veneer piece on top of the shallow part. Or bull nose molding that sticks out past the flush parts.
Bill D.

[Jim Andrew]

If you don't have veneer, just glue a strip over the top of the piece you did not get flush, then take a sharp block plane and plane it even as possible, the piece that sticks out you should be able to plane as well. Probably could finish up with a ROS. You learn to check everything out before calling a glue-up finished. Find a rubber mallet very handy to get everything in alignment.

[Brian Runau]

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[Matt Day]

In the first picture you could try to fill the gap with veneer. I’ve never been happy with sawdust mixed imwith glue, maybe I wasn’t using enough sawdust, but in any case the glue would stick out like a sore thumb.

In the second picture that’s an easy one. Hit it with a hand plane.

[Grant Wilkinson]

The piece that is proud of the member that it joins to is easy. As others have said, you can either plane or sand it down. I would not simply leave it to the adjustments in your drawer hardware to compensate for.

For the other piece, even veneer may be too thick to make up the difference. If so, you will be forced, then, to sand down the veneer. I would bring the vertical piece down to the horizontal by planing or sanding.

As an aside, I assume that you have no joinery between all these pieces, not tenons, dowels or biscuits, yes? You are relying on the end grain to side grain joint to keep everything together??

[Richard Wolf]

I have to agree with Grant, what type of joinery are you using? It would appear to be none. You may need to rethink you construction methods to avoid situations like this in the future. Plenty of advise on how to fix the present situations.

[Matt Day]

There definitely could be dowels or a M&T, or Donino joining the pieces, maybe the holes weren’t placed exactly right. We’ve all been there before.

[Jim Becker]

If you didn't use any metal fasteners, you can also cut it out using a flush cut saw and carefully replace the component, using pocket screws on the back side to help hold it in place while gluing after very carefully clamping it in position.

[Brian Runau]

I thought about stub tenons, but just used pocket screws instead.

[Brian Runau]

think I could pull the pocket screws and open the join with a Japanese saw and then re-glue?

[Brian Runau]

I don't have a lot of experience with hand planes and I am concerned about damaging the piece that runs 90 degrees to the piece the overhangs it.

[andy bessette]

I thought about stub tenons, but just used pocket screws instead.


... You may need to rethink you construction methods to avoid situations like this in the future...

Ugh. This. Pocket screws should be reserved for garage or tool shed projects. Proper joinery would have avoided the "shifted during glue-up" issues.

[Adam Herman]

Did i miss what kind of glue?

pull the screws and see if you can use a clamp to break the joint, and screw back together?

[Matt Day]

Ugh. This. Pocket screws should be reserved for garage or tool shed projects. Proper joinery would have avoided the "shifted during glue-up" issues.

Ignore cranky pants over there.

Pocket screws can be a great joinery method for beginners.

Use the hand plane to get close to flush then sand the rest.

[Jim Becker]

think I could pull the pocket screws and open the join with a Japanese saw and then re-glue?
Yes, pull the pocket screws first. :) Just make sure it's a flush cut saw with the "safe" side toward the stile/leg because you do not want to damage it. If you use a non-flush cut saw, make your cut well proud of the vertical member and the trim it flush with a sharp blade or by sanding carefully, etc. Be sure that your replacement piece is really well clamped before you drive the pocket screws. The angle they go in can move the material unless it's fixed very firmly...as you have found out.

[Brian Runau]

I was just trying to save time to finish the project. I won't going forward. thanks brian

[Jim Becker]

By removing the hardware, you'll get a much nicer finish and it will be easier to apply. going "around" thing is a pain in the proverbials... :) In fact, removing the hardware may actually speed the process up for you!

[Brian Runau]

I was planning on doing insert drawers and the horizontal and vertical front sections are only 3/4" thick. Thinking about making the drawers overlay now. Is 1/4" overlay with 1/4" gap practical? thanks. Brian

[Brian Runau]

If you didn't use any metal fasteners, you can also cut it out using a flush cut saw and carefully replace the component, using pocket screws on the back side to help hold it in place while gluing after very carefully clamping it in position.

Jim, thinking about changing the drawer design to over lay. I only have 3/4" dividers, how would a 1/4" overlay with a gap come out on a dresser? Thanks Brian

[Jim Becker]

Jim, thinking about changing the drawer design to over lay. I only have 3/4" dividers, how would a 1/4" overlay with a gap come out on a dresser? Thanks Brian
Sounds like a math problem to me. :) Honestly, I've never done overlay doors...I'm strictly an inset lover (Shaker and Craftsman styles)...so hopefully others can help with your question.