WW and carpentry - installing windows

[Gail O'Rourke]

In my usual "of course I can do it" way I am replacing 7 of my windows this weekend. I have the basic knowledge to do it, but didn't know if there were any tricks. These are Harvey windows, replacement style.

Thanks for any insight.

[John Lucas]

I know better than to post anything. By the time it is up and you read it, you will have replaced them all. Your twin is much the same.

[Mark Singer]

The flashing and waterproofing are essential. Use Moistop and Bituthane around the perimeter and flash with membrane on the building. All caulk joints should get a 1/4" joint with backer rod. I like Dow 795 or Sika Flex. Make sure the window is square and operating before the wall is closed up...if it is racked it will bind. Caulk under the sill and a drip should be outside the building face on the bottom. Don't bury any weep holes.

[tod evans]

we use riggin` axes and chainsaws here in the ozarks.....but then again we live in "hillbilly hiltons" (trailers) :) tod

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Mark beat me to it...follow his lead and you'll not go wrong.

[Lee Schierer]

Spend the time making your rough opening perfectly square and flat on all sides. It will save you hours of pain later trying to make the window work. I also agree witht he previous post that you should seal all cracks and opeingings with a good quality sealant..

[Jim Becker]

When you say "replacement style", that says to me that they are designed to fit inside the original window frames once you remove the original sashes, etc. If so, they are quite easy to deal with ...just follow the instructions to prepare the window, slip in the replacement, true it up and fasten it permanently with the provided screws....and then caulk it as appropriate.

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Hi Gail. I am reading this the same way as Jim Becker. If they are replacement windows then you just remove your old glass and any stops that are present. You should be left with just a jamb, like if you removed a door and its stops. Slide the window into the opening [one person inside and one outside] and place the window as far to the interior or exterior as you like. Center it in the opening and shim the bottom to level it, and then nail it down. Now shim the hinged side [if it is casement] and level it plumb and nail in place [through the shims]. At this point you may need to move the top corner of the non hinged side in or out to remove any twist in the window. When that is sucsessful shim and nail that side. The exterior is usually capped with aluminum and will typically fit into a groove in the exterior cladding. Spray foam all the gaps [low expanding foam] and trim the interior with quarter round or whatever you like. Peter

[Gail O'Rourke]

Thank everybody, yes they are replacement, so should slip into the existing opening. I am starting this weekend, I will let you know how I make out.

[Richard Wolf]

Gail, sounds like you are getting into heavy construction.

Richard

[Walt Pater]

[QUOTE=Gail O'Rourke] yes they are replacement, so should slip into the existing opening.



STOP! You've just cursed the job!

[George Robin]

Gail, one other thing I didn't see mentioned above. Be sure, if you are using screws into the jambs, that you do not tighten them too much. They will strech the jambs and cause a poor seal.
HTH
George

[Tom Ruflin]

Gail,

I replaced 21 double hung windows in my house a few years ago. If you measured right they should just slip right in. The old sashes come out in about 5 minutes, just remove the inside trim and rip out the old windows. Clean up the inside of the stop, put on a good bead of caulk and slip the new window in. Be careful of over tightening the screws and there should be some adjustment screws to center everything up. Depending on how big the gaps around the window are you might want to stuff some insulation in to prevent drafts. Put the trim back on and you done. After doing a couple of them I was spending less than a hour on each window from start to finish. The best part is, it is all done from the inside so no ladders are needed. I even left the old triple track storm windows on until after the winter and my house was resided. Good luck and from the pictures of your work this will be a no brainer for you.

[Gail O'Rourke]

Thanks all for telling me how easy it was, it wasn't....4 hours for the first. I am not divorced yet, but still have 6 more to go.

The first is a masterpiece...the next 6 will take some time, I will prep in shop before start install with Husband. Then, I will have everything ready, actually, maybe I will just do it all when he is at work. (lot's of rot to replace, so no surprises, just more time consuming).

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I rarely quote times on projects like window and door replacements...it's rarely easy or cut and dried. Each one is quite the adventure actually.

I will say each one leads to new discoveries and helps prepare you for the next one. I hope you are taking some pics....we'd love to see them.

[Gail O'Rourke]

Pictures....next window...I couldn't find the time to say "honey, I know you are really frustrated right now, but can you just give me a little smile?"

Kelly, when you price out windows, do you do it flat rate per window, or hourly?

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I understand...the first one is always a bear. I price everything by the job...I use a half or full day rate pricing schedule. I take into account the construction of each house I do window replacement for (and there's not that many). I even built solid wood double hungs for one job (way too cheaply I might add), but the experience was wonderful.

Normally it looks like this....the window (a typical 3'x6' costs $100 in metal frame) and the supplies come to around $150...my half day rate is $175-$250 depending on the construction and trim. Some trim on the Craftsman homes requires more tedium and material, that rate goes a bit higher.

So the bid goes in to the client as a total, I do provide the breakdown IF they ask.