Good tool or jig for hanging large pictures?

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi guys,
I need a tool or a jig to hang some pics on a freshly painted wall. They are roughly 30" long and 24" high, so somewhat awkward to handle and a little heavy. I expect to use 2 hangers on each picture. I've used tape measures and levels and can eventually get it right. But then I have to touch up the paint.

Googling brings up tools that let you hold the pic on the wall with one hand and mark it. But these pics will require 2 hands to place on the wall. So then I spotted this "Hang it Perfect" gizmo. LINK (https://www.amazon.com/Picture-Hanging-Tool-Perfect-Simple/dp/B005Z2700Q/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UBJCA63QDEXU&keywords=hang+it+perfect&qid=1553977602&s=gateway&sprefix=Hang+it%2Caps%2C293&sr=8-2) Has anybody used one? Or do you know of another tool or home made jig that works well?

As always, thanks for your help.
Fred

[Steve Eure]

I don't think the tool you linked would be of any help. It doesn't have any level in it. If the ceiling was not level, then you picture would not be level. It could help with the spacing, but your dilemma is still present by needing another person to help hang the picture. They do make telescoping supports to help hold molding to the ceiling. Don't know if that would be practical in your situation. Here are two links from Rockler that are what I'm referring to.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-multi-prop-work-support
https://www.rockler.com/12-ft-telescoping-pole-for-crown-support

[Edwin Santos]

Fred,
Is the design of the pictures such that you could use z-clips to mount them? If you're not familiar, basically they are low profile, aluminum french cleats that hold the item very close to the wall. You could locate, level and hang the cleat, screw the mating half to the picture, and then lift the picture onto the cleat. If it's a large item, I tend to hang it on z-clips or a z-bar, mark the bottom, and install some low profile angle brackets to secure the item.

Here's a video of a guy hanging a heavy mirror by himself using a z-clip/z-bar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59ziL52AeBc
Hope this helps

Edwin

[Pat Barry]

Nothing much more of a pain than trying to get something level with two hangers. Are you sure that you can't just use one hangar? This has been done this way for a long long time.

[Bruce Page]

I have a cheap Craftsman laser level that worked great for installing some storage shelf brackets and my shop lumber rack. Easy to set up, I bet it would work great for installing dual picture hangers.

[Jim Becker]

I have a cheap Craftsman laser level that worked great for installing some storage shelf brackets and my shop lumber rack. Easy to set up, I bet it would work great for installing dual picture hangers.

...as long as the two pictures are set up identically and have the same amount of "stretch" in the hanging wires... ;)

[Roger Feeley]

I like the thing. I made a simpler version a long time ago. It’s basically a nail stuck through a yardstick. I still have it. This appears to be much more versatile.

[Bruce Page]

...as long as the two pictures are set up identically and have the same amount of "stretch" in the hanging wires... ;)

I'm new age, tooth hooks only, I never use hanging wires. :cool::)

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys! The device does have a level, but it isn't obvious in that ad. I need to go with two attach points on the wall, and I agree that can be a pain for sure. I'll think about the work supports and attachment methods you guys suggested - didn't know about any of that. Thanks for giving me a hand!
Have a good Sunday.
Fred

[Keith Outten]

Fred,

No matter what jig or technique you decide to use when I must protect the wall finish I use drafting style roll paper on the wall held with painters tape or the yellow sticky notes. The paper becomes my work surface which makes it easy to place pencil marks and then use a punch to transfer the marks through the paper to the wall. I have used paper to hang signs of just about every conceivable size and some huge glass signs that were really heavy. In some facilities the paint can be very expensive, multi color and almost impossible to repair so the paper can stay on the wall until after the signs are hung and then the paper can be carefully removed.

Roll paper is pretty handy for making shop templates and I often plot templates on a plotter or my CNC Router used to hang large letters and text on interior and exterior walls.

[Lee Schierer]

Painters tape is your friend when hanging a shelf with two hangers. You first determine the height and location you want by holding the shelf against the wall. Mark the location for one hanger and install the hanger. Then attach painters tape on the wall in the approximate location of the second hanger. Hang the shelf on the first hanger. Place a level on the shelf and move the shelf so it is level. Make a mark along the top (or bottom) surface of the shelf on the painters tape. Measure the exact distance between the hangers on the shelf and transfer that measurement to the painters tape. Then determine the distance of the hanger from the top (or bottom) of the shelf and transfer that measurement to the painters tape. You now have the exact location of where to place the second hanger on the wall.

[Tom M King]

I also use the delicate surface (whether the surface is delicate, or not) tape method, and never use a wire if whatever is being hung crosses two studs. The only specialized tool I use is a stud finder.

[Frederick Skelly]

(Head slap!) It never crossed my mind to use roll paper to protect that wall Keith. That will really help. I just bought another roll of that brown contractor paper for the shop yesterday. I use it all the time. I'll try that here. The painter tape method is promising too. Thank you Lee.

I prefer nailing into studs too Tom. I haven't found a reliable studfinder, despite several tries. Edit: I saw in an old thread on studfinders that you liked the Franklin 710 - do you still favor that one?

Thanks again guys. That's why I like this place so much. I always learn so much from all of you.
Fred

[Stan Calow]

I like the metal cleats that Edwin describes, especially for heavy paintings. Because its a long strip, it can span studs so you dont have to center on them.

[Tom M King]

I use that stud finder still for crown molding, but not much else, and only because it's the right shape for holding the molding up with as well as indicating exactly where the studs are. I have another one now, that also indicates the center of studs, but also detects wires, pipes, and such. Sorry I don't remember the brand, and model. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow. You hold this one vertically, so it takes more room on the wall, and the top is not flat, so it's not as good for putting up horizontal moldings.

[Lee Schierer]

I haven't found a reliable studfinder, despite several tries.

I recently had to find the studs behind a tiled wall in a bathroom to mount some safety rails. My regular electronic stud finder found nothing. Knocking on the wall with my knuckle only gave me a sore knuckle. Fortunately I had my Little Wizard metal detector and some 1/2" x 1/2" rare earth magnets that I had brought along. By sliding the metal detector over the wall, I could locate the screws holding the dry wall to the studs. Then I could get one of the magnets to stick on the wall where the screws were. By finding several screws in a vertical line, I could define exactly where the studs were. I have used this method several times since to find studs.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Hi guys,
I need a tool or a jig to hang some pics on a freshly painted wall. They are roughly 30" long and 24" high, so somewhat awkward to handle and a little heavy. I expect to use 2 hangers on each picture. I've used tape measures and levels and can eventually get it right. But then I have to touch up the paint.

Googling brings up tools that let you hold the pic on the wall with one hand and mark it. But these pics will require 2 hands to place on the wall. So then I spotted this "Hang it Perfect" gizmo. LINK (https://www.amazon.com/Picture-Hanging-Tool-Perfect-Simple/dp/B005Z2700Q/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UBJCA63QDEXU&keywords=hang+it+perfect&qid=1553977602&s=gateway&sprefix=Hang+it%2Caps%2C293&sr=8-2) Has anybody used one? Or do you know of another tool or home made jig that works well?

As always, thanks for your help.
Fred

At your shoes I would consider something based on French cleat. It looks very convenient and effective for a such heavy and big stuff.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I hung around 200 paintings in a day and a half for a pop-up art gallery using a Bosch Green Laser GLL 100 GX. It snaps a vertical and horizontal line. The trick is to snap the line at the middle of where you want them to hang, or of you want all to be lined up across the top or bottom, snap it there. I had may paintings of different sizes, so I snapped a line in the middle.

With a middle line projected on the wall, I measured each painting, divided by two, and then pulled the wire on the back taught in the middle as it would when hanging, and measure the distance from the wire to the top edge of the painting. Subtract that from 1/2 the height of the painting and whatever that number is, measure up that amount. Your paintings will all be hung centered.

Also, the vertical line helps you position it where you want, and measure up the green line to be right on the mark.

[Keith Westfall]

I had to hang 5 kids portraits in a double row (3 & 2) for my daughter, and not wanting to 'mark the wall' I ran 2 vertical stripes of masking tape on each end of the wall and measured down to determine the height I wanted to be for each row. Then a ran a small string line across the 2 vertical strips secured on each end with tape. Simple measure for separation of each picture and placed a hangar nail. (she had wires on the back - yes I checked each for same length!)

Worked great, no marks, and spacing that she was happy with...

[Tom M King]

I looked at the other studfinder today. It's a Zircon i520. I needed to find some studs in a 1798 house to support my theory that there was an earlier door in a location now covered with an early 19th century plaster wall, and the other one wouldn't read through the plaster. This one did, and proved my theory by pointing out the wider framing members beside the old door opening.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks everyone! I'm reading it all and taking it all in. I appreciate it.

Tom, I'll go read about that zircon -thanks!
Fred