Workbench top...

[Jeffrey Hood]

Looking for some advice/suggestions here... I am redoing my bench (Kirby-style base, 24"x72"x1.5") and picked up two laminated ash countertops from HD that are 2'x6' for less than $150 each... very solid and nice clean grain... I was going to glue up the top as normal until I found these, and am planning on gluing them up to make a 3" thick top...

Question is... What would be the best way to clamp them together during the drying time...? and what would be the best glue...? I'm leaning towards yellow wood glue and using screws/lag bolts to hold things tight, since I don't have any clamps that will get to to interior of the slab... edges I could clamp, but shy of finding something weighing 100+# to put int the center to hold things down, I thought that using screws to pull things together, along with using dowels to align everything should work fine... I was planning on getting everything ready, rolling out the glue, and screwing them together until things dry, and then taking out the screws... it will have end caps and a front skirt after...

Any thoughts on a different type of glue or clamping method...?

Thanks,

JH

[James Pallas]

Make some curved cauls. Plenty of online stuff about them or buy some if you have the pocketbook for it. Easy to do. Wood glue is fine. Just make sure those tops aren't sealed or all would be for naught.
Jim

[andy bessette]

They won't be flat enough for wood glue. Use gap-filling epoxy glue and clamp all around the edges, No screws or dowels.

[Andrew Seemann]

If your ceiling is low enough, a few "go bars" basically springy boards say 1x2 wedged between the ceiling and the piece can help. I'd probably go with the screw though the top piece method myself. It is very secure and basically foolproof. Be sure to counterbore the top piece so you don't get bridging between the pieces

[Jim Koepke]

If having a row of dog holes down the center is something this bench will have, they could be drilled beforehand and then the center could be clamped using long bolts, washers and nuts.

Toward the ends of the two pieces a dowel could be used to help align them.

If you use the "go bar" method make sure their is a rafter under the part of the ceiling you prop it against.

For cauls with a curve you might want to make a pair as an experiment to determine how much curvature to use for the span.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Or even better go back to original plan, buy some SYP/DF (ripped 2X10 or 12) or any other cheep wood and do a quick glue-up to make a slab of the size needed. Odds are that would work better in the long run and I expect easier to do.

ken

[Don Coffman]

With your plan, I would assure the gluing surfaces are flat/clean and glue with TiteBond II (my preference), secure with 2-1/2" torx-drive deck screws from the bottom @ 8-12" spacing staying away from any areas of potential attachments/drillings for vises, dog holes etc. Tighten screws from the center outward..

[bill epstein]

Pallas and Seemann have it right.

Cauls just require a few strokes of the plane on ends of 2x4's and work well for me on veneer glue-ups with PPR adhesive. https://veneersystems.com/product-category/veneer-
adhesives/ureas/ (https://veneersystems.com/product-category/veneer-adhesives/ureas/)

It has gap-filling properties, eliminates glue line creep, and a longer open time than wood glue. Wear a mask while working with the powder.

The HD website states the tops are unfinished so no worries there but it wouldn't hurt to flick some water drops on to make sure they penetrate and not bead. Light sanding with 220 Garnet on a hard surfaced block should be accomplished. The milling will certainly have burnished the wood enough to potentially interfere with glue penetration.

You will want to check for flatness every 6" or so and deal with irregularities, gap-filling glues not withstanding.

If you do opt for screws, do counterbore as Seemann suggests. Do not leave any screws in regardless of length. You and future generations :) will want to re-finish and/or install attachments without hazard.

[Jim Koepke]

If you do opt for screws, do counterbore as Seemann suggests.

One thing to be careful about with screws is if pilot holes and shaft bores are not proper, it may push the pieces apart when the screw hits the second piece.

jtk

[Jeffrey Hood]

Thanks everyone… I’ll let everyone know how it goes… 🤞🏻

[Andrew Seemann]

One thing to be careful about with screws is if pilot holes and shaft bores are not proper, it may push the pieces apart when the screw hits the second piece.
jtk

I usually drill the pilot hole through both pieces, and then go back and do the counterbore. That keeps the alignment good between both holes on each piece. For something like this, I'd also do a dry fit driving the screws almost but not quite all the way. If you do have any with attitude problems, an oversized sized counterbore with a washer under the screw head can help with that:)

[Graham Haydon]

For the task at hand caulls are the best plan. Just take the time to do a dry run or two. For glue I'd be happy with a PVA style glue, there is titebond with an extended open time that would be good.

[Jerry Olexa]

I suggest using a combination of the dog hole idea and many strong Cauls clamped in place

[Don Dorn]

I clamped the four corners and screwed it together using a great deal of them. Once dry after 48 hours, removed the screws. Perfect lamination. Used the other side for the top and drilled the dog holes. It's 3" thick and very flat. I didn't think of it though, it's what Chris Schwarz did using his two counter tops from IKEA. He has a video on the two day workbench. The leg system is massive and yet was easy with a dado blade for some and a bandsaw for some.