Looking to get my 1st sharpening stones

[Terry Kelly]

I’m looking at getting some sharpening stones and looking for recommendations on what to get .....I’m not familiar with the process yet will look around YouTube bit figured I could get some suggestions from the wood brethren here.... I have some cheaper chisels to start on and a older Stanley plane as well, will get some better ones from Lie Nielsen in the future.....

Thank You....

[Ron Citerone]

I like my Norton water stone and I highly recommend a sharpening jig.

Actually sharpening jig with the scary sharp method if I had to do it again.

[Chapel Eastland]

Trend diamond stone 8"x3", 300 grit one side -1000 on the other. Easy to use, no jigs needed. Sharpens chisels, plane blades, knives. I gave away all my Arkansas stones.

Don't get cheap diamond stones and there's plenty of them out there. Spend the $100 bucks, get this stone (not really a "stone" but you get the drift) add a piece of leather for stropping and a green or white compound, and that's all you need.

Learn to sharpen without jigs -it's faster, more efficient, and get back to work. When you start buying jigs, you'll have a dozen jigs while you look for the Holy Grail and you still won't know how to hand sharpen your tools.

Eliminate the wasted money and wasted time. Unlike cheaper diamond stones, the Trend one will outlive you.

[Tom M King]

Try to get your hands on different types before plopping down your cash.

[Frederick Skelly]

I like the Shaptons alot. But I also have several DMT diamond stones. I dont know how the DMT compare to the Trend suggested above - but I like them. However, I seldom use my diamond stones now that I have the Shaptons - a 500, a 1000 and a 6000.

You should also search the archives for "sharpening". The Neanders here have generated thousands of pages on stones and techniques. Serously.

Fred

[Jim Morgan]

Learn to sharpen without jigs -it's faster, more efficient, and get back to work. When you start buying jigs, you'll have a dozen jigs while you look for the Holy Grail and you still won't know how to hand sharpen your tools.

Sorry, I think this is bad advice. If you sharpen most every day, you will get enough practice to develop the muscle memory necessary for sharpening by hand. For those who sharpen only occasionally (my impression is that this includes the OP), this is a recipe for frustration. An Eclipse-style, side-clamping jig is inexpensive and fast and easy to use. Look on the Fine Woodworking site to find tips from Bob VanDyke on tuning and using this type of jig.

[Cary Falk]

Since you asked for suggestions in the power tool section I would recommend the Worksharp 3000 for chisels and hand plane jigs. I bought some 6" diamond lapping discs on Amazon and couldn't be happier

[Dave Zellers]

Whoa. So much here to agree with. Agree with Cary. Start with the WS 3000. It will establish a perfectly square 25º (or other) bevel on most anything you put to it. Sandpaper or diamonds, either one works.

Then move that piece to a fine finishing stone using a holder (jig) that you can adjust to establish a secondary bevel a few degrees higher than 25º - any brand stone but I like Shaptons too.

After you master that, you later will use the WS 3000 to re-establish the 25º primary bevel, then apply the secondary bevel freehand on your stones- you will find it to be very natural. Soon after, you will discover that you own more stones that you ever thought possible.

Now, resist all thoughts of selling your WS 3000. You will always be glad you have it for re-establishing perfectly square 25º bevels on all the chisels and irons you acquire here, on eBay and at local yard sales.

At this point, the assimilation is complete. Succumb to the inevitable. It's like getting married, only more expensive.

And equally pleasurable.

I left this out on purpose to not frighten you away, but I have now entered the Arkansas oil stone phase. I already own a large black and a large soft is on the way. I'm retired so it's OK. If anyone even mentions J-Nats, run the other way.


Seriously, it's a process. You can step off the train whenever you choose.

Welcome to the hotel.

[Dave Zellers]

Having just re-read your original post, DO NOT treat your Lie Neilson chisels or irons casually. They will come to you in perfect condition. Know exactly what you are doing when you sharpen them.

A light touch is your friend.

[Jacob Reverb]

I like my Norton water stone and I highly recommend a sharpening jig.

Same here. I have a double-sided Norton waterstone, I think it's 1000 grit on one side and 4000 on the other. Seems to work well.

If you go that route, you'll also want something to flatten the waterstones, as they get hollowed out after a while. I use a diamond "stone" for that.

[Mike Cutler]

I have a collection water stones that go from 200 grit to 10,000 grit. Some are Japanese, and some are Norton's.
Would recommend that you start out with a simple jig to keep a consistent angle. I have a few older Veritas MKII's and they're very easy,and fast
to use.
A small angle gauge is valuable also, so that you can establish an angle from the beginning.
It's a good plan to learn on inexpensive tools first and then go to nicer tools, but don't be afraid to sharpen those Lie-Neilsen's once you learn. The edges can be made much nicer than factory.
Lie-Nielsen appears to sharpen to about 400-800 grit with their factory edge. I typically take most plane blades to about 4000grit, and bench chisels to 8,000 grit. Some people go way beyond that.

[Derek Cohen]

I’m looking at getting some sharpening stones and looking for recommendations on what to get .....I’m not familiar with the process yet will look around YouTube bit figured I could get some suggestions from the wood brethren here.... I have some cheaper chisels to start on and a older Stanley plane as well, will get some better ones from Lie Nielsen in the future.....

Thank You....

Hi Terry

My recommendation for those starting out is to begin with "scary sharp", which is wet-and-dry sandpaper (600/1200/2000 grit) on a flat surface (glass, tablesaw bed), and an Eclipse honing guide ... just to get your feet wet, and begin to understand "sharp". This system will cost a minimal amount (under $20).

When you are ready to move up, and are feeling Serious, I'd recommend a set of Shapton waterstones (1000/5000/8000 grit). You will need to keep them flat. The 1000 w&d on glass will do that. Better still, a 275 grit (Coarse) DMT diamond stone (reserve it only for this process).

If still not so sure, but want something better than sandpaper, try Eze-lap diamond stones (600/1200 grit) and a Norton 8000 grit waterstone (you still need to flatten the waterstone, so get the 275 DMT as well).

In diamond stones, I would say that anything that does not state it was made in the USA was made in China. This goes for Trend diamond stones, which appear to be re-badged Ultex, and have not had a good bunch of reviews on Amazon of late (out of flat). The Eze-laps and the DMTs are reliable.

It is also possible to work to 1200 grit and then strop to a higher level. Lee Valley Green compound rubbed over flat hardwood will act like a high grit polishing stone.

Personally, I hollow grind blades and then freehand them on waterstones. My system is more than you want to spend on, and is really for the more advanced sharpener. For a later time. Get started first.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Frederick Skelly]

"If anyone even mentions J-Nats, run the other way."

OMG, yes! I'd heard Neanders talk about J-Nats like a holy grail and knew they were pricy. I didn't realize just how expensive they were until a roughly 3×8" J-Nat sold for $350 in our classifieds the other day.

[Chapel Eastland]

Sorry, I think this is bad advice. If you sharpen most every day, you will get enough practice to develop the muscle memory necessary for sharpening by hand. For those who sharpen only occasionally (my impression is that this includes the OP), this is a recipe for frustration. An Eclipse-style, side-clamping jig is inexpensive and fast and easy to use. Look on the Fine Woodworking site to find tips from Bob VanDyke on tuning and using this type of jig.

It doesn't take muscle memory. It takes understanding as to what an "edge" is and how to best sharpen a tool get a good working edge.

I can teach someone who's never sharpened a pencil with a pocket knife to sharpen tools in about 10 minutes with a large Trend diamond stone.

There's more myths about sharpening than myths about supernatural gods.

[roger wiegand]

I can't tell you what is "best", having tried only a few of the options. I will say that I got a 10 minute lesson at a Lie Nielsen road show then bought their 1000 and 8000 grit Oishi stones and a DMT diamond plate to flatten them and my planes are now actually sharp for the first time ever. I can now produce miles of lacy shavings and just completed my first cabinet using no sandpaper, planed surfaces only in curly maple. I have the Lee Valley honing guide, which gives me accurate and consistent bevels and microbevels, something that didn't ever happen in 30 years of trying to be a freehand purist-- no amount of understanding of what an edge is, nor hands-on help from people who could do it perfectly allowed me to achieve an acceptable result.

"Best" is a very difficult (and not particularly useful) standard. "Good enough to achieve the desired outcome" works for me, and this system accomplishes that, as do I'm sure many others. Actually it's only just short of miraculous! That first 2 ft long ribbon that is so light that it floats in the air is remarkable.

Flattening stones correctly turned out to be a major factor in improving my sharpening, don't underestimate or skimp on whatever technology you employ to get your stones dead flat.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

It's like getting married, only more expensive.

And equally pleasurable.

I left this out on purpose to not frighten you away, but I have now entered the Arkansas oil stone phase. I already own a large black and a large soft is on the way. I'm retired so it's OK. If anyone even mentions J-Nats, run the other way.


Not for the first time, I am glad I married my wife and not somebody else’s....

On a serious note though, the oilstones work better for HCS and O1. If you want to get into Lie Nielsen stuff it is all A2, and you probably want the diamonds or waterstones of some type.

[Tom M King]

There are a number of different ways to get to the same sharp edge. It seems like no sub topic of woodworking brings a rise to egos, and chest thumping, than sharpening. The reason I said earlier to get your hands on the different systems is because what works for one, may, or may not work for you. If you go down any of the forks in the road, there will end up being some amount of money spent that you may wish you had done differently later, as you get experience.

I have been sharpening wood cutting edges for 60 years now, and have developed a system that works for me, and my helpers. I would not suggest to anyone that is the one system that is "right". Before getting to my system now, I have spent decades with oil stones, with jigs, and without jigs. With waterstones, there are soft ones, hard ones, and ones of each that cut at different rates. Small differences in stone construction matter if you are using a jig, or sharpening by hand.

You will do yourself a favor if you can find some place, like maybe a club, to try out the different systems, and pick the method that looks like it will work best for you, at least to start with. Don't just simply take anyone's advice off an internet forums.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

You will do yourself a favor if you can find some place, like maybe a club, to try out the different systems, and pick the method that looks like it will work best for you, at least to start with. Don't just simply take anyone's advice off an internet forums.

This is good advice.

[Jack Frederick]

Given the need to flatten stones vs not having to deal with it on Diamonds and just starting out, I think I would just go diamond with maybe and 8000 or so finishing stone. I have a drawer full of stones but most often find myself going to the 1/2" float glass and up to 4000 grit paper. I know it is flat. I have the LV jig and have had good results with it, but I think if starting out I'd spring for the Lie Nielsen. The previous posters have vastly more experience than me. The glass and paper will be your cheapest entry and will allow you to "get your hand" in. You can drop some serious cash on this, topic so, slow and steady is probably the best way in. I'm scared to death at the idea of hollow grinding and can't see springing for a Tormek. I've been making some good progress on my current project, but based upon my experience yesterday I am going to patiently sharpen planes and chisels today. You know when you get it right. The converse is also true;)

[Doug Dawson]

I’m looking at getting some sharpening stones and looking for recommendations on what to get .....I’m not familiar with the process yet will look around YouTube bit figured I could get some suggestions from the wood brethren here.... I have some cheaper chisels to start on and a older Stanley plane as well, will get some better ones from Lie Nielsen in the future.....

Shapton all the way. It's the new black. If you go on amazon, you can get the japanese versions for half the price of local, so they're not all that expensive.

For chisels, you will also find a WorkSharp 3000 very helpful. Good enough. Flattening/honing the chisel backs, OTOH, is a different story (no way to do this all that well on the WorkSharp, IMO, stones or scarySharp is the only way, too easy to mess up otherwise.)

[George Yetka]

I started with the DMT line and quickly moved away as it left a scratchy finish. From there I went to the scary sharp method and quickly moved away from that because i felt like it took alot to move to a mirror finish. I arrived at the Naniwa Chosera Whetstones. They work amazingly well, they are quick and stay flat for a good amount of time and then I reflatten with a DMT Diaflat. I have 1000,3000,5000 and am saving for the 10,000 I finish up on a strop.

I do have the veritas mark II set for chisels and plane blades. I used it for the first 30 sharpenings and then just for the first one of the day to relearn angles.

[Jake Hillestad]

Simple route - 400 grit Atoma, Spyderco Medium, Spyderco Ultra Fine

You really cant mess up the stones, they will sharpen any steel out there, and you could be all in for well under $200

[Derek Cohen]

Spyderco ceramic stones are good ... but they do need some prep first, such as flattening with a diamond stone. Once this is done, they remain flat for a very, very long time. They are narrower than most other stones. Mine are 2"x8". So they are better for freehand sharpening, where you can use them sideways. Further, the UF does benefit from a further polish on green compound (I use it scribbled on hardwood). Do not use dry. They clog up. Use with a spritz of soapy water.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Robert Hazelwood]

Since you have older tools, you'll likely need to do more work (remove more material) to get them flat and in a condition where they can be honed. Most sharpening discussions center around finer stones that you would use day to day on tools that are already set up properly and only require minimal work to restore the edge. For the heavier work you'll likely need to do, nothing beats PSA sandpaper on a flat surface. Use 80 grit for really heavy work, and 220 for less severe. A 20 ft roll of each will last a long time.

I mention this because when I started I had a lot of tools needing work done, and it seemed like the biggest money pit was trying to find a good fast coarse stone. I was disappointed by coarse diamond and water stones. The Crystolon oil stone is good but goes out of flat like a waterstone and is a bear to re-flatten. Other oil stones are too slow. But a fresh sheet of PSA sandpaper will cut extremely fast. So I would rely on that for all coarse work, and only fool with stones for medium and fine work that you do on a regular basis.

For day to day sharpening pretty much everything works well enough. Remember that good geometry trumps grit rating, so don't get caught up in superfine stones when you start. You should be able to get a serviceable edge out of a very pedestrian stone if you shape the edge correctly and remove the burr. I've tried everything and currently use oil stones. But synthetic waterstones are better at polishing broad areas, so I use them when I get a new blade to polish the backs. If forced to make a recommendation, I would probably recommend splash and go waterstones (like shapton or sigma) in 1000 and 8000 grit, and a 220 grit diamond plate to flatten them.

[Terry Kelly]

Thanks for all the replies,I knew I would get some awesome insight here.....