Removing dried wood glue from chamfers?

[Michael Costa]

I did my first glue up on a coffee table/blanket chest I'm making. I decided to put 45° chamfers between the pieces. I got most of the glue up while wet and now I'd like to get the rest of the glue out (hopefully) without raising the grain. I'm sure one of my solvents will do it. Any help here would (always) be appreciated.

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[Phil Mueller]

I would probably use the corner of a card scraper,being careful not to be too aggressive and tear out wood with the glue.

[Brian Tymchak]

hmm, I've not had this particular situation but since there is a lot of lineal feet to clean up, I think I might be tempted to run a router with a v-groove bit taking a light pass to get most of that. then lightly spot scrape after a little solvent is applied. On future glue ups, run tape along each side of the joint to catch squeeze out.

[Pat Barry]

Chisel. Best bet would be to remove it while it is gelled, before its hard. Good luck. Oh yeah, I wouldn't try a solvent.

[Lee Schierer]

Solvents aren't likely to work on PVA glue. I would use a scraper or a vee groove router bit.

If you intend on painting the wood, I would fold a piece of sand paper over the corner of a wood block and sand the vee's.

[Nick Decker]

I think I'd favor the vee-groove router bit. And next time, apply the vee groove after the glue up.

[Edwin Santos]

Do you have a rabbet plane? If so, I think one light pass on each side of the vee would do it.

[Michael Costa]

Do you have a rabbet plane? If so, I think one light pass on each side of the vee would do it.

Never heard of one. Let me guess.... $200

[Michael Costa]

I think I'd favor the vee-groove router bit. And next time, apply the vee groove after the glue up.

I did use a 45° on each mating edge before glue up. I know I could have done the glue up first and then make the same effect with my chamfer bit, but I knew if I did it first they would be perfect on the mating edging. I haven't been using a router long enough to be comfortable enough to try to nail that dead center.

Is there a solvent that would work. I could always use a piece of strapping (if that's what its called) on the inside.

[Michael Costa]

hmm, I've not had this particular situation but since there is a lot of lineal feet to clean up, I think I might be tempted to run a router with a v-groove bit taking a light pass to get most of that. then lightly spot scrape after a little solvent is applied. On future glue ups, run tape along each side of the joint to catch squeeze out.

The lineal feet in minimal. 18" and 4 chamfers times 2. When I do the longer sides I'll be more mindful.406608

[Richard Coers]

If you attempt to use a solvent, it will wick into the joint and that will fail too.

[Sebastien La Madeleine]

I think if you clamped two guides on each side of the slot, exactly the width of your router base and used a vee bit slowly plunging it down, the center would be easy to adjust and the two guides would ensure good results.

[Lee Schierer]

The lineal feet in minimal. 18" and 4 chamfers times 2. When I do the longer sides I'll be more mindful.406608

You can carefully apply painters tape to the bevels on both sides of the joint before assembly and any glue squeeze out will be on the tape where it is more easily removed. Just make sure you don't get the tape inside the actual joint. I do this frequently when gluing up small boxes.

[Edwin Santos]

You can carefully apply painters tape to the bevels on both sides of the joint before assembly and any glue squeeze out will be on the tape where it is more easily removed. Just make sure you don't get the tape inside the actual joint. I do this frequently when gluing up small boxes.

Or another option would be to pre-finish the exposed areas so when glue squeezes out, you can let it dry and pop it off easily with a chisel or putty knife.

This way you're not doing any additional work, just moving the finishing step in front of glue-up, in case you think taping is a pain.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Chisel, if a few spots. Longer areas, then a rabbet plane or edge of a card scraper.