Frames for Canvas

[James & Zelma Litzmann]

I am not sure where to put this question, so this group wins . . . or loses : )

We just recently started producing canvas prints, to our surprise the frames for these are one of our biggest expenses. We want to make our own frames but not sure what kind of wood to use. We tried plain pine and it warps, anyone . . . any suggestions? They are just strips of wood with a few angles and holes put into them? Any suggestions on the type of wood is much appreciated, not wanting to use MDF.

Thanks,
Zelma

[Lee Schierer]

I would use kiln dried poplar or soft maple. Pine might work if you get kiln dried to 7-8% instead of construction grade @12%

[James & Zelma Litzmann]

Thank you so much.

Zelma

[Tony Leonard]

I'm pretty sure most of the blanks canvases that my wife uses (artist) use pine for the stretchers. Some of those do warp a bit, but not too bad. Pine is nice because of the weight, but poplar would probably work well too. I just looked at Blick - they offer some in "Brazillian White Pine." Whatever that is! Also Ponderosa Pine.

Tony

[Brian Holcombe]

Canvas stretchers are not a simple thing. They're joined at the ends, they have mitered supports and they are molded so that only their outer edges actually touch the canvas. This prevents them leaving a witness line around the border of the canvas.

You can produce them, but you'll need to mold the profile and join the corners with a mitered bridle joint.

[Jack Frederick]

Be careful. Building frames for his paintings is the way Wharton Esherick began woodworking. Look where it led him!

[Yonak Hawkins]

Be careful. Building frames for his paintings is the way Wharton Esherick began woodworking. Look where it led him!

If making frames results in his level of woodwork, I guess I'll have to learn to paint.

[Martin Siebert]

I make a lot of frames. I like black walnut and cherry. Depending on the picture, eastern red cedar makes a nice looking frame. I agree that frames are a big expense. They are also a big pain, to make that is. I have made many frames out of pine. I usually use Virginia pine and have had no problems. Any wood is subject to warp or other movement, especially if it is not dry and stable.
Don't sell yourself short on the price/value of solid wood custom made frames....they are about impossible to find these days and are always expensive. What you get in a way too expensive framing store is typically moldboard with plastic and/or paint for a finish...get it wet one time and it disintegrates. Best of luck!

[Bill Dufour]

Where do you live? local woods may be cheaper then the recommended ones here. Do you have trees you will cut down or is this all be store bought. I made a few things from eucalyptus but it will twist and split as it dries. I like the old growth redwood or Sitka spruce but they are hard to get these days.
Bil lD.

[James & Zelma Litzmann]

I’m sorry, it is the “stretcher” bars that I need to learn to make. We live in East Texas, but it will have to be from the store.

[Jim Becker]

For the frames and panels I make for a local photographer, I typically use poplar. (Tulip Poplar, not the "Aspen" type poplars)

[Carl Beckett]

12 years ago I made about a dozen sets of stretchers for oil based paintings ranging in size from less than a foot square to about 3ft x 4ft on one of them. These were not archive quality, although they are hanging on the walls of my house to this day.

I used plain pine lumber from the borg. I did not undercut (although its probably a good idea). I joined the ends with a dab of all purpose construction adhesive (keep it in the joint so it doesnt touch the canvas) and then two pocket screws into each butt joint at the corners.

There is a picture somewhere in my archives if you want it, but nothing special.

[James & Zelma Litzmann]

Sounds like Poplar is our best bet . . . keeping my fingers crossed.

Thank you for all your input, it is very much appreciated!

Zelma

[Chuck Nickerson]

Canvas stretchers are not a simple thing. They're joined at the ends, they have mitered supports and they are molded so that only their outer edges actually touch the canvas. This prevents them leaving a witness line around the border of the canvas.

You can produce them, but you'll need to mold the profile and join the corners with a mitered bridle joint.

Brian, as always you're a fount of knowledge. Can you refer me to a set of instructions or guidelines?
My painting would like to be unbound from conventional dimensions.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Chuck. I wish I could but basically I just discect one and go from there.

[Wayne Cannon]

I'm no expert, but all of the frames in our house look like unfinished white pine or poplar. If unfinished, I would be concerned about aromatic woods, like redwood and cedar, affecting the integrity of the paint, and possibly telegraphing through, even if in close but not direct contact. Shellac?

[Joe Rogers]

My dad was an artist and I helped him stretch canvas for his oil and acrylic paintings. The miters are slotted in a way so that wedges are tapped in after the canvas is attached. We used special canvas stretching pliers to draw the canvas as tight as possible and stapled or tacked it taut. Then the canvas was stretched again by the opposing wedges at the miters. There were two at each corner. On large paintings this is important so the painting stays flat. And as previously noted the faces of the stretchers were moulded to have the canvas contact the frame at the extreme edge. A display frame is added after the artwork is finished.
Dad liked BIG paintings...
Joe

[Michael Costa]

My wife's brother is an artist. He makes his own frames. I just texted him to see what he uses, and what the nice frames are made with.

But my 2 cents. If you're milling down construction grade wood (my go to since it's cheap!) get a bunch of 2x10s and stack them with spacers and some weight in top in the garage or unused room in the house. They'll dry. And 2x4s warp too easily.

[John Gornall]

Spruce, pine, fir all have warp issue in canvas stretcher bars. I have made thousands, Currently use basswood, stays straight.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I also use poplar for the frames I make for my daughter.

I use bridle joints at the corners and half laps on the in-between stretchers for large frames......Rod.

[Michael Costa]

Spruce, pine, fir all have warp issue in canvas stretcher bars. I have made thousands, Currently use basswood, stays straight.

I just found out basswood is used. Light weight and doesnt warp. Pine leeches sap and others leech tannins so dont use those. Also, keep in mind the size of canvas you are making. An 8"x8" frame no big deal. But a large frame needs stretchers, corner braces, etc. While it won't warp, it will bend under pressure without proper support.