Tool handle other than Thompson?

[Steve Mathews]

I really like the Thompson tool handles but using them this winter in my unheated shop was uncomfortable. I was thinking of trying the Robust collet type because of the wood handle. I should be able to still use the Thompson tools though. Any others in this situation? Comments?

[robert baccus]

Try obtaining a beautiful, heavy 2x2 0f tropical hardwood and turn your own--an heirloom instead of a mass produced, useful, but ordinary handle.

[Bill Blasic]

Try this https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/renfrew-black-hockey-tape-3-pack-16rnfu3pkblcktpxxhka/16rnfu3pkblcktpxxhka?recid=Product_PageElement_pro duct_rr_1_9073_&rrec=true Hockey grip tape over 60 yds for $10. Keep your hands off the metal yet still keeps contour so tool will not roll.

[Eugene Dixon]

For ~$12, you can buy a replacement shovel handle at the borgs. You can make 2-3 handles from one. Or you can ask your neighbors for broken tool handles or old wooden base/soft ball bats (straight grain for sure). The shovel handles are good for 1/2 dia. tools. You'll need something bigger (the bats) for the 3/4" Thompson bowl gouge.

I've started using Robust's wooden handle and swapping the Thompson tools around in it. I kinda like the triangular shape. I've tried turning a triangular handle--need more practice on that one--kind of got off center.

[John K Jordan]

I really like the Thompson tool handles but using them this winter in my unheated shop was uncomfortable. I was thinking of trying the Robust collet type because of the wood handle. I should be able to still use the Thompson tools though. Any others in this situation? Comments?

You can buy metal handles with non-metal sleeves, I have some that look like a tough foam rubber. I like the Thompson handles too except the diameter is a bit larger than I prefer to grip.

But I prefer wooden handles. Make the part that grips the tool from steel, brass, or aluminum. I've made them from aluminum on the wood lathe using standard woodturning tools.

I drill a hole to size in a wooden blank and a deeper hole to accommodate the tool shaft so I can control the length sticking out the end. Turn to suit. Some people worry that this method may not be strong enough to withstand severe abuse but I disagree, especially if the long shaft of the tool is embedded deeply in the handle. If concerned, add a metal ferrule on the end.

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I find wooden handles very comfortable at any temperature. A bit of texturing allows a secure grip.

Note: Thompson gouges have a short section on the end of the shaft turned down to a smaller diameter, i.e., the a 3/8" gouge shaft is a bit larger than 3/8". He machines his handles to fit the larger diameter. If you make your own metal adapters for wooden handles, just bore them a tiny bit oversize to fit the thicker part of the shaft.

JKJ

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I'm also in the make your own group. You can make them as long or short as you want, as thick as you want. Or thin. Some beads/coves/grooves help with grip and appearance. You can burn grooves, carve embellishments. Have a good time and make your tool useful.
If you can't find nice looking hardwoods, as mentioned, shovel/pick/garden tool handles are a cheap and great source. Most of them are straight grained. That would be the only requirement for turning your own handles. Straight long grain.
Personally I do not like swapping out handles, and I do have a few handles that allow tool changes. I much rather just grab the tool and turn. Don't care much for the feel of aluminum handles. Prefer wood. I may dress up my metal handles with hockey grip..... Good idea. Just gotta love this forum.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I bought a couple of the Jimmy Clewes cam locks from Doug Thompson. His gouges fit them perfectly, I make wooden handles for them, and I can very quickly take the gouge out of the handle for sharpening.

[Brice Rogers]

I inherited a set of Harrison Specialties Wood tools. It includes a nice and indestructible handle made out of aluminum but with foam grip. It accepts tools with a 1/2" diameter base. The tools are made in the US in Minnesota. I contacted him once regarding a question about one of his videos and I found him to be quite helpful. Here is a link to his 17" handle: https://www.harrisonspecialties.com/17-interchangeable-handle-with-foam-grip-for-full-size-simple-woodturning-tools/

[Peter Christensen]

If you like the handles John posted in post #5 but don't fancy making your own metal parts they are available from LV.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=62128&cat=1,330,49233&ap=1

[Alex Zeller]

My Oneway handle has a piece of reinforced vinyl tubing over the aluminum. If the hockey tape isn't to your liking and you don't mind the increased diameter you could try to slide some hose on your handles.

[John K Jordan]

If you like the handles John posted in post #5 but don't fancy making your own metal parts they are available from LV.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=62128&cat=1,330,49233&ap=1

I haven't looked at those from Lee Valley, but most of the commercial ones I've seen and bought I considered poorly designed. For example, they used a 1" diameter insert for a 1/4" diameter tool shaft. The third one from the left in the second picture I posted is like that - awkward to hold close to the end. I make the insert more proportional to the tool diameter to make it easier to hold and control, especially for detailed work. I also like to add grooves in the part that gets epoxied to the wood for better grip. As I mentioned, I have made them on the wood lathe with woodturning tools but it is quicker with the metal lathe. I also find it satisfying to use things I make.

If cost is a consideration I can make one for maybe $1 or less in materials and a little time. There are, or used to be, a bunch of people who made and sold these so maybe shop around.

JKJ

[tom lucas]

I bought a couple of the Jimmy Clewes cam locks from Doug Thompson. His gouges fit them perfectly, I make wooden handles for them, and I can very quickly take the gouge out of the handle for sharpening.

I did the same. Love the cam locks. One handle, many chisels. Fast change without tools. Easy sharpening. Very high quality. I've only one handle now. It's a 5/8" cam lock. i only have 5/8 and 1/2" bowl gouges so far. I bought an adapter for the 1/2" gouge to fit the 5/8" cam. As I can afford more tools, I'll likely add at least one more handle, but have pretty much settled on using the 5/8" cam for everything. And Thompson makes these CAMs for JC.

I'm also interested in carterandsons tools and was wondering if their 1/2" shanks would fit the JC locks. Can't seem to get an answer on this one.

[Steve Nix]

I’ve got several of Trent Bosch’s handles and really like them because I can add weight to them because I prefer heavier handles. My personal preference.

[Greg Parrish]

The D-Way tool handles are nice. Metal with rubber covering.

[John Keeton]

I have considered/researched most all of the commercial handles and D-Way handles are what I use. I probably have 14-15 of them - both the old style covering and the new. They are excellent.

[Grant Wilkinson]

@JKJ: I make my own ferrules, too, but having been given a LV gift card, I bought one of the Hosaluk ferrules from LV. The hole drilled in the handle is only 1/4" larger than the diameter of the tool shaft.
I really like the Jimmy Clewes cam locks, too. The one advantage of the Hosaluk ferrule is that the tool can be inserted through the ferrule as far as I like. I have a Oneway gouge is that is really long - too long for my taste. With the ferrule, I cans shorten the gouge to any length I want. The cam locks are closed ended, so that is not possible.

[Jeff Jackson]

D-way is my choice.

[Greg McClurg]

I like the Jimmy Clewes cam locks. Having one handle for multiple tools takes up less room, easy for travel, easier to sharpen without having to negotiate the handle, can make the handle to fit your hand, and much cheaper in the long run. Not all tools fit the cam locks so I went with the Robust collet that works for any that don't fit. This works for me, but everyone has their own method and likes.

[Pat Scott]

I wrap all of my wood and aluminum handles with the 3M stretch wrap from Craft Supplies. It's like an Ace bandage that comes in different colors. I don't have the grip that I used to and this stretch wrap helps me grip the handle better and makes it warm to the touch (although my shop is heated). I have 3 or 4 Thompson handles and 3 or 4 Stuart Batty handles and it makes a world of difference. Plus it's cheaper than a new handle or buying an insert! I also have a Bosch handle and a couple of D-Way handles but I don't wrap them because they have a rubber coating already. I do like the D-Way handles.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/90/4492/3M-Cohesive-Utility-Wrap?term=wrap+handle&term=wrap%20handle#ReviewsPanel

Craft Supplies also sells the Hosaluk handle insert for $5 less than Lee Valley.
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/140/1902/Hosaluk-Handle-Insert?term=hosaluk+handle+insert&term=hosaluk%20handle%20insert

[Peter Christensen]

Pat the link I put up to the Hosaluk handle parts was the Canadian one. The US side price is $19.95 so the price is the same as Craft Supplies.

[Richard Coers]

For a purchased handle, I prefer the Hannes tool tri-lobe handles. I think they will become even more effective when I get older and loose a little grip strength. https://hannestool.com/product-category/handles/

[John Sincerbeaux]

My first choice is Glaser HiTech.

[Doug Ladendorf]

I use the 3M stretch wrap as well on at least some of my Thompson handles. Certainly helps in the winter and has a nice feel.

[Brian Deakin]

John
Could you please if possible provide detailed information on the dimensions of the metal inserts you make to hold tools ,the size of grubscrews used and information on the method used

kind regards Brian

[John K Jordan]

John
Could you please if possible provide detailed information on the dimensions of the metal inserts you make to hold tools ,the size of grubscrews used and information on the method used


Brian,

I'd have to measure for a complete accounting (I'm a bit overbooked today!). I wrote this on another forum a couple of years ago - it has a few details.

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This spindle roughing gouge is made from 1" diameter Thompson steel. The shaft (can hardly call it a tang) is 5/8" diameter, the same as the smaller (and incredible) Thompson/St.Leger 5/8" roughing gouge. The smaller one is my favorite for small diameter spindles but this one works great for 2" to 4" spindles.

For a handle that would fit both, plus a few others, I made a new adapter on the metal-cutting lathe. This one is cut from a 1-1/4" diameter brass rod from the scrap yard. Drilling the 5/8" thru hole was tricky.

The largest I've made so far, it's pretty heavy made from brass, and the gouge is heavy too. To balance the weight I turned the handle from a piece of a Persimmon tree I cut here in 2006. A 3/4" hole is drilled deep into the handle so I can adjust the protrusion of a couple of longer tools with 5/8" shafts.


I start with rod of various sizes, from 3/4" (I think), often 1", and sometimes larger for the larger diameter tool shafts. The length extended from the front just needs to be long enough to comfortably fit two set screws. The length glued into the handle can be any length, the longer the stronger. I drill a deep hole so I can set most tool shafts deeply into the handle to minimize the length sticking out.

I usually use 5/16x18 set screws: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00II5ZO82
On some inserts with thinner walls I grind the working ends of the set screws down so they are still flush with the insert.

When I'm making small diameter inserts I prefer to make them from steel instead of softer metal since the the thinner walls can accommodate fewer threads. For tapping I generally drill for 75% thread. I have used smaller set screws with finer threads for thinner walls but if possible I prefer the 5/16" so I can use the same allen wrench.

I drill the holes to hold the tools a little oversize so the Thompson tools will fit.

Someone else asked this same question sometime in the last year so I did measure some of them and last week I actually saw the piece of paper I wrote everything on! If I can find it again I'll post a followup later today, but if not it might be a bit before I can measure again. Ask again if I forget.

Making one from aluminum on the wood lathe with woodturning tools:

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JKJ

[Chuck Norwood]

I just took a 3 day class from Ashley Harwood and go to try out the SB carbon fiber tool handles and bolsters which are amazing.

You can buy them from her at www.ashleyharwood.com and they are available from a couple of other sources.

[Steve Mathews]

I just took a 3 day class from Ashley Harwood and go to try out the SB carbon fiber tool handles and bolsters which are amazing.

You can buy them from her at www.ashleyharwood.com (http://www.ashleyharwood.com) and they are available from a couple of other sources.

The last time I was at Woodworkers Emporium in Las Vegas they mentioned that Stuart Batty stopped production of his tool handles. However, Woodworkers Emporium was planning to continue with the line. I just checked their website and they now not only offer their carbon fiber handles with the SB Taper-Lock bolsters but also the Robust collet system.