Dust Bin Sensor Completed

[Larry Frank]

After reading all of the fine work by several members, I decided that I wanted to add the dust bin sensor to my Oneida Super Dust Gorilla. I ordered most of the parts on eBay. The sensor was $3.79, the delay relay board was $4.95 and the 12 V power supply was $9.99. I used some LED trailer lights that I had sitting around, a blue electrical box and wire and a terminal strip. The picture shows the sensor, delay board and washers I used for mounting the sensor.


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My dust collector is outside of my shop in the garage so I need to wire it with the sensor in the garage and the rest of the circuit and lights in my shop. I drilled a hole thru the wall and mounted ¾” plywood on either side.

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This is an overview of my cyclone. I am using a cardboard bin with a metal lid to collect the chips. A hole drill was used to drill thru the lid and the sensor mounted using hose washers on each side to seal the sensor. Before mounting the sensor, it was calibrated so that it picked up anything within about 4 inches of it. I mounted an electrical box close so that I had enough wire to the sensor to easily remove the lid and empty the bin. Note that the metal lid is grounded to the metal cyclone.

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Inside my shop, I mounted the circuit board in an electrical box and made all the connections to the sensor, power, and the alarm lights.

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I mounted the 2 12 volt trailer lights near the ceiling from one of my 6” pipes. It is a place where I would see it if it was turned on. In the future, I will look at getting a flasher relay to use to make the lights blink. The relays are cheap and the same thing that is used in a car for flashing lights.

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My thanks to Rod Sheridan for his help in wiring the sensor, power and circuit board as I would have never figured it out myself.

[Jim Andrew]

So, have you used it enough to know if it works? I bought one of the first ones Oneida sold, and it would work about 1 out of 3 bin fulls. Threw it away.

[Jim Becker]

Larry, that looks like it turned out really great! If you feel so inclined, please post more details about the specific parts you used and a wiring diagram and I'll get this into the sticky thread setup up above so folks can benefit from it going forward. I suspect there will be good interest...including myself having just had to clean out my filter (a thankless task) after over filling last week while milling a bunch of soft maple.

[Kris Cook]

Looks good Larry. I have all the parts rounded up but am a ways out on building mine.

[Matt Day]

Nice job Larry!

I agree a parts list would be very helpful. Any chance of a video to see it in action?

I will need one of these in the future.

[Larry Frank]

Here is the information on the two main parts which I purchased on Ebay. The price was very low but took awhile to get to me.

Here is the sensor - E3F-DS30C4 Diffuse Reflection Type IR Adjustable Photoelectric Switch

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And Here is the delay relay board- DC 12V 24V Digital Led Infinite Cycle Delay Timer Switch ON/OFF Relay Module.
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The other parts were just a 12V DC power brick, a couple of LED trailer lights, and misc parts for the wire, and boxes.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks, Larry...I've made this thread a sticky for folks to easily get the information into the future. This is an incredibly useful accommodation for anyone with a cyclone, even if it's in the same room with them, but especially for all of us who have our units located "out of sight" while working.

[Rod Sheridan]

Larry, glad to hear you have it running.

Here's the drawing for it. I set the timer at 10 seconds so it would ignore those occasional false alarms caused by swirling dust in the bin.

I used a 5 ampere supply because I used a 12 volt LED beacon for a vehicle which is mounted on the ceiling in my shop. Even I can't ignore it:D

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Regards, Rod.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for the diagram, Rod. Much appreciated!

I ordered the parts a few minutes ago. The timer board will take awhile as "all three" vendors (which I suspect is really only one vendor) are currently "on vacation" but the sensor and power supply are readily available.

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks for the diagram, Rod. Much appreciated!

I ordered the parts a few minutes ago. The timer board will take awhile as "all three" vendors (which I suspect is really only one vendor) are currently "on vacation" but the sensor and power supply are readily available.

You're welcome Jim, have fun....................Rod.

[Allan Speers]

Nice!

Thanks, Larry & Rod.



BTW, I remember seeing a thread once where a guy built one of these but also added an audible buzzer.

It should be pretty simple to add that, just find the right 12v buzzer to use, and make sure you have enough 12v current.

[Jim Becker]

I have my parts now other than a light, so I just have to get on with building things when I have a "copious free moment". :) Alan, good suggestion on the buzzer.

[Jim Becker]

Ok, I've physically assembled everything successfully nothing blew up once I applied power. The IR sensor seems to be sensing when I play with it. So...

Larry, you mentioned calibration of the IR sensor. Perhaps I missed it, but how does one do that. Also what are your recommended settings for the circuit board. I downloaded the "how to set" material off the EBay listing, but will appreciate your thoughts on how best to arrange things based on your experience with the solution.

Thanks in advance!

---
I had a box lying about to put things in.

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[Adam Carl]

I ordered all the parts on Amazon, more expensive but seemed liked quicker delivery. The sensor was delivered today, other parts are on the way. It looks to pick up objects 5 inches away. You can adjust this by moving it along the threads but that will only give you 1 or 2 inches of play. Detecting objects 5 inches from the top of a barrel seems good to me.

I am also confused by the settings on the circuit board. I am not sure which mode I need to only trigger the light when repetitive detection is encountered.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Jim, to calibrate the sensor I adjusted the potentiometer so that the sensor wouldn't trigger until my hand was as close as possible to the sensor.

Here are the instructions I wrote for programming the timer...........Regards, Rod.

1) Apply power to the timer, display indicates “00”
2) Press and hold “SET” button until it displays “P1”
3) Press “SET” once to go to “P2” (On delay mode)
4) Repeatedly press “ADD” key to go to “-1” (time range)
5) Press “SET” once to go to “t1”
6) Press “ADD” to go to “10” (Time setting in seconds). If you go too far press “ENTER/-“ to subtract from the setting.
7) Press “SET”, the timer will now countdown to “00” and the red LED will illuminate and you will hear the relay click.
8) Remove power from the timer, re-apply power and watch it count down and operate.

[Jim Becker]

Thank you, Rod! (And thanks for adding that to this thread, too!)

[Rod Sheridan]

You're welcome, I'm in Virginia enjoying the sunshine and trees with leaves........Rod.

[Adam Carl]

Thanks Rod. :)

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[Bob Hinden]

I was thinking of getting the parts and making one. How well does it work?

Thanks,
Bob

[Adam Carl]

Bob, I will be installing in the barrel this weekend, keep you posted.


I was thinking of getting the parts and making one. How well does it work?

Thanks,
Bob

[Adam Carl]

Bob,

Sorry for the delay, the "boss" had other plans this weekend. I completed my setup. I have 1 issue I have to work thru. While not in the bin the sensor picks up my hand at 5 inches, while in the bin the sensor picks up the dust pile at 10 inches. I don't see how to adjust this sensor. Perhaps I need a different sensor? I see some sensors online state adjustabilty from 0 - 30 cm.
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[Bob Hinden]

Bob,

Sorry for the delay, the "boss" had other plans this weekend. I completed my setup. I have 1 issue I have to work thru. While not in the bin the sensor picks up my hand at 5 inches, while in the bin the sensor picks up the dust pile at 10 inches. I don't see how to adjust this sensor. Perhaps I need a different sensor? I see some sensors online state adjustabilty from 0 - 30 cm.


Adam,

Thanks, very helpful. I understand the delay :-)

Even at 10 inches not so bad. At least you know it's gets close to full.

I will continue to follow the thread and start collecting the parts and supplies. Will be a while before I have time to work on it, several other projects ahead of this.

Thanks,
Bob

[Adam Carl]

Can you see the pictures?


Adam,

Thanks, very helpful. I understand the delay :-)

Even at 10 inches not so bad. At least you know it's gets close to full.

I will continue to follow the thread and start collecting the parts and supplies. Will be a while before I have time to work on it, several other projects ahead of this.

Thanks,
Bob

[Bob Hinden]

Can you see the pictures?

Yes, no problem.

Bob

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Adam, my sensor has a small screw on the cable end that is a potentiometer for sensitivity.

I adjusted mine to the lowest value it would trigger at...........Regards, Rod.

[Adam Carl]

Interesting. I have a small brass screw but it was covered in glue used to seal the cable to the body. I cant get it to move, now I stripped it. Thanks for the followup.

[Bob Hinden]

Hi,

I went ahead and ordered the parts on ebay. Parts will get to me sometime between middle of May and early July :-)

Worth an experiment for $21.

Bob

[Sean Nagle]

I completed my dust bin sensor using the sensor and timer from eBay. I was able to scrounge a 12V 1A DC power supply from an old networking switch and I had lots of electronics parts lying around that I made use of. I did purchase the LED trailer tail lite at Harbor Freight and I bought a couple neoprene washers for attaching the sensor to the drum lid at Ace Hardware.

One addition I made to mine was to add an on/off switch and an LED that comes on when the switch is on. That way it's not powered up unless I'm using the dust collector. It's easy to add an LED and switch. I added the switch to the positive lead coming from the power supply. The LED is a typical 2.2V, 20mA LED. The anode gets connected to the positive lead coming off the switch. The cathode gets attached to two 1K ohm, 1/4 watt resistors in parallel (500 ohms) and then to the negative lead from the power supply.

Thanks to everyone for sharing your ideas and tips, especially Rod for providing a schematic and instructions for programming the timer. They were spot on.

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[Bob Hinden]

I received all of the parts from China via eBay, and also a box and some terminal blocks from Amazon.

I put it together today, did the setup, and it appears to work. See attached pictures.

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I have not yet attached it to the dust collector, the first pictures show where it will be installed. I am also not sure how sensitive it needs to be, but mine does have an adjustment screw on the sensor.

Also, now I need how to bring 110v to a 220v dust collector and keep it mobile.

Bob

[Jim Becker]

Also, now I need how to bring 110v to a 220v dust collector and keep it mobile.



You need a 240/120v four wire circuit to accomplish this on a single connection to your "mobile" DC setup. The fourth wire provides the neutral required for the 120v need. Alternatively...two separate cords. :)

[David L Morse]

You need a 240/120v four wire circuit to accomplish this on a single connection to your "mobile" DC setup. The fourth wire provides the neutral required for the 120v need. Alternatively...two separate cords. :)

Or just get a wall wart that works on 240V. Actually, check the label on the existing one, most of the switching supplies now operate on a wide input voltage range.

[Bob Hinden]

Or just get a wall wart that works on 240V. Actually, check the label on the existing one, most of the switching supplies now operate on a wide input voltage range.

Thanks! I checked, and it does work with 240 volts. But that would mean adding another 220v outlet to my shop and an 220v extension cord. A lot of work to get 12 volts to the sensor box. I think I will probably just run a 120v extension cord parallel to the main cord for the dust collector. Or possibly extend the 12v output from the wall wart and run 12 volts to the box. I suspect that it doesn't draw very much power.

Looks like the sensor Oneida sells has the same issue. Here is an image from a video on their site.

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Bob

p.s. I like you Leo Beranek quote. I used to work at Bolt, Beranek, and Newman a while back.

[Bob Hinden]

Thanks! I checked, and it does work with 240 volts. But that would mean adding another 220v outlet to my shop and an 220v extension cord. A lot of work to get 12 volts to the sensor box. I think I will probably just run a 120v extension cord parallel to the main cord for the dust collector. Or possibly extend the 12v output from the wall wart and run 12 volts to the box. I suspect that it doesn't draw very much power.


I did some searches on Amazon and found a 20ft 12 volt extension cord. See:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K58LF9Q/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pOtbDbZE3XVB3

I think that will work, and ordered one. Only $7.

Bob

[David L Morse]

...that would mean adding another 220v outlet to my shop and an 220v extension cord. A lot of work to get 12 volts to the sensor box...

I can understand you not wanting to hack your new DC just to tap into the power.


...p.s. I like you Leo Beranek quote. I used to work at Bolt, Beranek, and Newman a while back.

Thanks, I think it may apply to more than just loudspeakers.:D

[Rod Sheridan]

I received all of the parts from China via eBay, and also a box and some terminal blocks from Amazon.

I put it together today, did the setup, and it appears to work. See attached pictures.

411254411253411255

I have not yet attached it to the dust collector, the first pictures show where it will be installed. I am also not sure how sensitive it needs to be, but mine does have an adjustment screw on the sensor.

Also, now I need how to bring 110v to a 220v dust collector and keep it mobile.

Bob

Hi Bob, if you need the 120 volts for the DC supply, just buy a universal input (120/240) volt DC supply.

That’s what I did......Regards, Rod

[Bob Hinden]

I did some searches on Amazon and found a 20ft 12 volt extension cord. See:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K58LF9Q/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pOtbDbZE3XVB3

I think that will work, and ordered one. Only $7.



It arrived yesterday, I tried it out, it works fine.

[Bob Hinden]

I got around to finishing the installation yesterday by drilling a hole in the top of the dust collection bin. Used some rubber o-rings to get a good seal.

When I provided power to the sensor, it triggered right away, even though the bin was mostly empty. I turned the little screw until the light went out. I guess I will have to wait until I fill the bin to do a final adjustment. I mounted it on the clear window on the bin because I could remove the window and drill it on the drill press, I don't think that would be an issue.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bob

[Chris Holder]

Hey Larry, just wanted to say a quick thanks! I too built this based on your post and it works great! I would add one note- if you are using pvc ducting or your duct work is not grounded (and you are using a steel barrel like me), make sure you ground the barrel. I fried a power supply within about 5 min on a particularly humid texas day:) Thankfully the sensor survived.

[Larry Frank]

The real thanks goes to Rid Sheridan..he was a genius with it.

[Bob Hinden]

I started a new milling project, sure enough the light started flashing. I used a flashlight and realized it was not close to full. So I adjusted the sensor again. After more milling it came on again. I checked again with the flashlight, still seemed a little early, so kept going.

When I was done and it was still flashing, I checked again with the flashlight, it was pretty full. Seemed like 90%. I emptied the bag and realized it was full to the point of making it difficult to close and seal the bag. I think that the sensor was set about right.

Overall conclusion, the dust collection sensor works very well. The flashing LEDs are bright enough to be noticed and the sensor can be adjusted to the correct level.

Thanks to Rod for the design and all of the suggestions on this forum.

Bob

[Bob Hinden]

Yesterday when I went into the shop, the dust bin sensor was flashing. I checked the bin, it was not even close to full. I tried cleaning the bottom of the sensor, but no change. Tried adjusting the sensitivity, also no change.

Something died.

Any suggestions? It had worked flawlessly since I made it.

Thanks in advance.

[Kris Cook]

Something in your circuit is closed that should be normally open. If you have a multi-meter you should be able to do continuity checks to figure it out. Just make sure you unplug the wall wort first.

[Bob Hinden]

Something in your circuit is closed that should be normally open. If you have a multi-meter you should be able to do continuity checks to figure it out. Just make sure you unplug the wall wort first.

Thanks, I will take a look today.

Bob

[Bob Hinden]

I went to debug the problem, but after applying power again, it worked normally. I readjusted the sensor and checked all of the connections, all seemed good. I will keep an eye on it.

Bob

[Tom Bain]

So I built this sensor and it worked perfectly at first, but it's kind of "wigging out" on me more recently. When I trigger the sensor the controller/timer will count down as it should but then it won't turn the light on when it gets to zero. I know the light works because when I apply power directly it comes on as it should. I tried to re-program the controller but when I push the "set" button I get nothing (never shows P1). I'm guessing the controller is semi-fried and probably going to order a new one, but wanted to check with the experts here to see if I might be missing something.

[Bob Hinden]

So I built this sensor and it worked perfectly at first, but it's kind of "wigging out" on me more recently. When I trigger the sensor the controller/timer will count down as it should but then it won't turn the light on when it gets to zero. I know the light works because when I apply power directly it comes on as it should. I tried to re-program the controller but when I push the "set" button I get nothing (never shows P1). I'm guessing the controller is semi-fried and probably going to order a new one, but wanted to check with the experts here to see if I might be missing something.

I had a similar experience as I posted earlier.

I ended redoing it based on a different design based on a thread I found here. See:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242096-Building-Your-Own-And-Improving-Upon-The-Oneida-Dust-Sentry-Bin-Level-Sensor&highlight=dust+collection+sensor

Somewhat simpler and is working. The sensor fits into the same size hole.

It is working. I think it's more sensitive as it flashes when I am putting a lot of chips into the bin, but that doesn't seem to be a problem.

Bob

[Peter Mich]

Thanks for sharing your efforts to build a dust bin sensor for your Oneida dust collector. I’ll be building one for my dust collector. What are your thoughts about the feasibility/practicality of programming the sensor to not only turn on an alert light, but also to power down the collector?

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks for sharing your efforts to build a dust bin sensor for your Oneida dust collector. I’ll be building one for my dust collector. What are your thoughts about the feasibility/practicality of programming the sensor to not only turn on an alert light, but also to power down the collector?

I did that, I have a flashing LED beacon and decided to connect the sensor to my cyclone starter as well.

I was using the planer when it shut off the cyclone and plugged up my planer.

that was the end of using it to shut off the cyclone, I'm back to the flashing beacon..............Regards, Rod.

[Jim Becker]

Rod, that's a really good point...the very tools that fill the bin fastest are also the ones that just can't operate for more than a few seconds without dust collection being active. So "Yea" to the warning light, but "Nea" to the auto shut off seems prudent.

[Bob Hinden]

I agree, good point. I also think it good to set sensor sensitivity to less than a full dust collection bin to permit finishing the operation without overflowing the bin.

[woody dixon]

I have ordered all the parts for the bin sensor but i'm having trouble understanding Rod Sheridan's drawing as it relates to the relay pics. For instance where and what are vcc , gnd and ck on the relay pic? Also, when the pos wire from the power supply joins the brown wire from the sensor and branches down to the com terminal, does this they are joined and a pigtail is run down to the com screw and a separate pigtail to the vcc connection? I have looked at multiple photos of the wiring but no matter how much I enlarge the pics I cant really see all the connections. Appreciate it if someone could get me on the right track.

Woody Dixon

[Bob Hinden]

Woody,

It's been a while since I did this. I found this diagram on Amazon that might help.

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[woody dixon]

So the load power on the right is from the bin sensor and the bottom left connection is the negative from the flashing light? Where does the positive from the light connect? Thanks for the diagram.

Woody

[Bob Hinden]

So the load power on the right is from the bin sensor and the bottom left connection is the negative from the flashing light? Where does the positive from the light connect? Thanks for the diagram.

Woody

First of all, I re-did mine a while ago so I can't look to see how I wired it. I agree it's confusing. I found another diagram:

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Hope this helps a little.

[woody dixon]

Bob and Larry were kind enough to reply but unfortunately they did not remember the connections they made. This was a pretty big thread and many people posted and built the bin sensor so I cant believe that no one now remembers how to connect the components or explain Rod's diagram. I also know people have more pressing matters to attend to than my struggles with this build. If someone that does remember could find the time to clarify these issues raised in my original post I would really appreciate it. Thank you again Bob and Larry for trying.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Woody, I sent you a PM, please email me a photo or drawing of your timer…..Thanks, Rod.

[Kris Cook]

Got my sensor installed. Thanks everyone for posting this.

Toggle switch on left to power up.

Beacon on top - I can see it from the planer, and jointer

Green indicator light at power on.

DC remote stuck with Velcro to side, so I know where it is...

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[Tom Bain]

Got my sensor installed. Thanks everyone for posting this.

Toggle switch on left to power up.

Beacon on top - I can see it from the planer, and jointer

Green indicator light at power on.

DC remote stuck with Velcro to side, so I know where it is...

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Nice implementation. What controller did you use? I’m trying to find one that is more reliable, but they all appear to be cheaply made in China with the associated lack of quality control.

[Kris Cook]

Tom - sorry, I didn't see this question until now. I went back and looked at my order on Amazon and the unit I ordered is changed to something else. The one I ordered is also a cheap Chinese thing - "DROK Time Delay Relay DC 5V 12V 24v Delay Controller Board Delay-off Cycle Timer..."

So far so good. It is a little different that some of the others posted here but wasn't that hard to figure out the wiring and programming.

I have since added a siren because I am not confident I will "see the light". The siren is in a closet though to attenuate the LOUDNESS.

[Leigh Betsch]

Do you have a cookbook explanation of how to build this? And a complete parts list?
im pretty electronically challenged but I could follow a cookbook. But maybe I should just buy one.

[Peter Mich]

I am also electronically challenged and was wondering the same thing. Buy or make?

[Dwayne Watt]

The basic sensor set up is simple. Go to Post #46 in this thread for the basic wiring diagram (assuming you did not see it). A lot of folks have added complexity with timers, control boards, and what not that is not really needed for this to work. You simply need the Banner IR sensor, the strobe light, and a power supply. I wired my power supply into the switched side of the dust collector contactor so it is powered only when the fan motor is powered up. You adjust the IR sensor to make contact when the bin is roughly 4 inches from full so there is little chance of overfilling while planing or jointing. In the simplest of terms, the IR sensor is simply a switch that is either normally open or normally closed. The circuit closes when the bin is full and the strobe light energizes. This is all basic circuit wiring, no electronics knowledge is necessary.

[Leigh Betsch]

Thanks I think I can do that.

[Tom Bain]

Tom - sorry, I didn't see this question until now. I went back and looked at my order on Amazon and the unit I ordered is changed to something else. The one I ordered is also a cheap Chinese thing - "DROK Time Delay Relay DC 5V 12V 24v Delay Controller Board Delay-off Cycle Timer..."

So far so good. It is a little different that some of the others posted here but wasn't that hard to figure out the wiring and programming.

I have since added a siren because I am not confident I will "see the light". The siren is in a closet though to attenuate the LOUDNESS.

Kris — No worries. I think all these controller boards are made in the same Chinese factory. Mine works but I find that it “forgets” its programming every once in a while and I have to go back in and set the mode, delay, etc …

[Steven Woodward]

Here is my implementation of level sensor using readily available parts. I have filled the dust bin a dozen times and it worked every time. I set the sensor to come on when the sawdust is about 5" from the sensor. Looking at the nearly full drum of sawdust, I positioned the sensor over a spot that had relatively flat area, so that there would be a good reflection for the sensor.

Made with a Banner QS18VP6D optical level sensor and a 12V or 24V light, plus matching voltage DC power supply. The Banner its rated for 100mA maximum load so choose an LED light that draws 50mA or less. Level detection point of the Banner can be adjusted. Banner can usually be found on eBay for under $30.

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A short video showing the sensor in action: https://youtu.be/JIUpPrCKCU8

[John Ziebron]

Steve, thanks for sharing a much simplified, and inexpensive, circuit for a dust bin sensor. I purchased the exact same sensor and flasher unit and it works great on my DC system. Interestingly, the LTE-5061 flasher I received had 2 red leads and neither was marked. I guess they must have run out of black wire that day. A quick connection to just the power supply showed which one is positive. This little flasher is brighter than I imagined it would be.