Hollowing out a nine inch cedar log to encompass a jack post

[Jim Sprester]

I have a nine inch cedar log which I want use to cover a four inch jack post supporting a beam in our basement. I had the log split in half, and now I need to hollow it out. A friend says he uses multiple passes with a circular saw, adjusting the depth as he proceeds. The sounds to me like a recipe for a lot of toothpicks if I were to do it. Anybody have a an idea of a semi-foolproof way of doing those? Anyone used a router? Other methods? I would appreciate any ideas or help.

Thanks, Jim

[Dan Jansen]

I recently had to make a bunch of dados on on a pair of ten foot 4x6s. They were shallower on the sides and deeper in the middle. I experimented a few ways and ended using a router on the thin dado and multiple passes 1/8” apart with the circ saw and a chisel for the deeper dados. I was surprised how nicely it was to clean up with a chisel and how fast it was. It would work just fine in your situation too although it’s probably going to generate a surplus of paint stir sticks instead of toothpicks.

If your log is fairly straight you possibly get away with using your dado blade in the table saw. Timber framers would just use a chainsaw to hog out the material.

Just remember that the inside doesn’t have to pretty because no one will see it.

[Jim Becker]

The guided circular saw method has some advantages in that you can clamp everything securely at floor level to make the various cuts and then use something simple like an adz to "hollow" out the half-shells with the same support structure in place. Yes, there will be lots of "toothpicks", but that's the nature of the task. As Dan mentioned, the inside doesn't have to be "pretty"...it just has to be hollow enough to allow you to reassemble the two halves around the post without interference.

[Jim Sprester]

The guided circular saw method has some advantages in that you can clamp everything securely at floor level to make the various cuts and then use something simple like an adz to "hollow" out the half-shells with the same support structure in place. Yes, there will be lots of "toothpicks", but that's the nature of the task. As Dan mentioned, the inside doesn't have to be "pretty"...it just has to be hollow enough to allow you to reassemble the two halves around the post without interference.

Thanks to both you and Dan! I appreciate the replies and the guidance.

Jim

[Scott Braun]

Thanks to both you and Dan! I appreciate the replies and the guidance.

Jim

Heres a thought, cut it in half again..so quarters. then you just have to cut the point off the "triangle" or innermost part of the log.

[Andrew Fleck]

I would probably just use a hatchet to get the bulk out and then fine tune it with a chisel.

[Scott T Smith]

An adz would make short work of that project.

[Dick Strauss]

How about using a lathe?

[Jim Becker]

How about using a lathe?
Not sure how that could work...this is a log thats probably 7-8' long that needs to be hollowed so it can be put around a steel support column.

[John C Bush]

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I used a 4" chainsaw disc on a grinder to "sculpt" this chunk of maple limb. It was 12"+ in diameter and the hollow was filled with tough scar-type(ligneous induration??) repairitive wood. The cedar would be much softer. These discs are wicked to use in tight radius quarters--are catchy and tend to jump out at you. Use full face shield and I used welders gloves as well. I think running a series of spaced kerfs to depth of the radius you want (round post???)- with a track saw-, chip out the "fins" with a hammer and finish with the chainsaw disk if you wanted a smoother surface inside. Likely easier/faster/safer than the disk. Good luck.

[Ted Calver]

How about adapting methods used to cut cove molding (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKiwTkX4EhE) on the table saw? If it's not too heavy to handle, attach the log half to a straight edge and run it over the table saw at an angle to get a nice smooth cut.