Total hand plane ignorant - Where to start?

[Marc Jeske]

I did not post this in "Neanderthal" cause they would have me buying $600/ piece Japanese chisels !!!! :eek:

I actually have a part time Pine Casket biz, and do just fine w stationary and hand held power tools.

My "Hand Planes" are limited to a PC and old Craftsman 3x21 belt sanders!!

I do own and old Craftsman block and approx ? 8" long plane, but really never use them.

I know I am missing something.

Please direct me to reading about getting started w hand planes.

Not so much how to adjust and sharpen, but more like how are they better than a belt sander ??

I know many are cringing reading this... but hey.. I have built two beautiful Kithens in my time, one solid ash even for cases and all shelves, plus MANY ther things.. It's just that I use a belt sander instead of a Plane.

And honestly.. chisel work is the same for me... tell me to recess a hinge leaf or even a door jamb strike and the work will look like a drunken idiot did it.

But, my machine work is ON THE NUTS accurate.

What am I missing ??

Thank you all, Marc

[Andrew Fleck]

The Handplane Book by Garrett Hack is a good place to start. I quit using belt sanders years ago. I’m not saying a hand plane is better I just personally prefer them over belt sanders or any sanders for that matter.

[Frederick Skelly]

The Handplane Book by Garrett Hack is a good place to start. I quit using belt sanders years ago. I’m not saying a hand plane is better I just personally prefer them over belt sanders or any sanders for that matter.

+1. Its the book that I started with.

You dont need $400 hand planes or $600 chisels to do good work. I bought a very functional #3 a year ago for $35. Its useful on most jobs I do. My chisels are Marples Blue Chip ($60 a set).

[WARNING: You might end up wanting the $400 planes - its a slippery slope once you start. But you dont need them. Yet. :) In addition to that #3, I also have some Wood River, Lee Valley and Lie Neilsens.]

Good luck Marc.
Fred

[Jim Koepke]

Fred is right. If you are good with mechanical things, you can pick up a decent set of planes for a less than $200. The hard (fun) part is in hunting them down and fixing them up.

If you are interested in a smoothing plane like a #4 or a jack, #5 they should be available for anywhere from $10 to $50 depending on condition and where you find it.

There is a lot of information in this archive:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805-Neanderthal-wisdom-FAQs

It covers many things including planes.

One reason many folks like a plane over sanding is sanding leaves a million little scratches. A properly sharpened blade on a smoother will leave a glossy, glass like, surface.

jtk

[Lee Schierer]

For sharpening you planes and chisels, look up "Scary Sharp" on the internet. You can get acceptably sharp chisels and plane irons with this method for just a few dollars and some time.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

The single biggest reason to use hand tools of any sort is that they are actually faster to use than a power tool for many things. Sounds outrageous, but you'll be surprised to see how right it is. Not resawing or thickness planing, but for the hundreds of little tasks that a project requires.

For example, I needed to chamfer 2' of countertop slab yesterday. 15 mins to get the router, change bits, set depth, test and run, then put it all back, or 3 mins to take the block plane that lives on the bench and make it happen.

[Prashun Patel]

"Am I missing something?"

Planes, when tuned and sharp, will make things flatter with less dust than sanders.

The problem, is that they do this at the risk of tear out. So, sharpening and setting the tool is 100x more critical than a sander.

[glenn bradley]

Not so much how to adjust and sharpen, but more like how are they better than a belt sander ??

I think if we avoid trying to describe how one is better than the other as a tool, we could focus on what they do. A drill driver can force a screw into material without a pilot, clearance or countersink hole. It can also break a brass screw in nothing flat and go skittering across your beautifully finished cherry surface leading to many colorful words. In the improper hands a manual screw driver can do the same thing.

There is a right tool for the job depending on the desired outcome. I wouldn't frame a house with a pin nailer and I wouldn't tack on retaining molding for a glass panel in a china hutch with a 27oz, waffle-face framing hammer. The belt sander will leave you with a given surface (in improper hands, a very irregular surface :D). If that surface prep has you ready for the next step, you're all set. If you are sanding to 220, 400 or 600, a hand plane leaves a glass smooth surface. You may not need the surface a hand plane provides. There are many finishing protocols that do not require a super smooth surface.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

The first time I used a sharp hand plane I was astonished at the glassy surface I was able to get on a piece of cherry. If you want to know whether you are missing something, you need to use a properly tuned plane to know what a hand plane can do for you.

I would start with your block plane. They are fairly simple and easy to tune. Once you get it in order you can use it to get a good surface, compare it with whatever you are currently getting, and decide if they are worth your time fooling with.

ETA: You do not need to spend $600 on anything. There is a certain clique in the Neanderthal Forum that are enthusiastic about very expensive tools, but you do not need them to do good work. If you have a question and make it clear in your post that you are more interested in a budget option I think most folks will respect that and not talk to you about those options.

[David Bassett]

... ETA: You do not need to spend $600 on anything. ...

The problem, often implied rather than addressed, is that getting results requires skills. Any price point requires the same skills to use the tool, but with planes and similar tools you tend to pay with either time & skill or dollars when talking about the setup. Beginners often don't have the refurb and setup skills to restore random tools to good working order. Actually the suggestion to try a well set up plane to see if the benefits are interesting was good advice. If you don't even know what the target is, building the skill to refurb and setup a plane to that standard is difficult, if not impossible. So, yes there are advocates for more expensive planes, but we should recognize there are advocates for refurb'ing old planes that have mastered the skills and forget how daunting that can be to the new comer.

OP, I don't know if you have a show, school, or handtool woodworker close (in time & location) where you can use a well setup plane and get a feel for the advantages and required techniques, but I think that'd be your best option to answer your question.

[Edwin Santos]

I would start with your block plane. They are fairly simple and easy to tune. Once you get it in order you can use it to get a good surface, compare it with whatever you are currently getting, and decide if they are worth your time fooling with.



This advice was exactly my path down the hand plane route. A good block plane is easy enough to tune and master. What happened to me was I found myself reaching for it all the time. This led me to other planes for their respective purposes.

Just a few days ago I had to rout a profile onto 1" stock. The bit was only capable of a 13/16" cut, two passes was not an option due to the nature of the radius. So I cut as far as I could and took a block plane to the remainder and just faired the profile until it looked seamless. Enjoyable and fast, not something you could do as precisely with a sander. In your situation, just look at the planes as a supplement to what you do with your power tools, not a replacement for them.

One other thought - like many power tools, planes can become more useful with jigs like shooting boards.

Do you have a local woodworking school in your area? Often times they have a basic intro to handplanes class, usually one evening or morning in duration. They do these at some Woodcraft and Rockler stores too. Something like that may be worth your time and really open your eyes to the potential applications.

[Jim Koepke]

I do own and old Craftsman block and approx ? 8" long plane, but really never use them.

I know I am missing something.

Please direct me to reading about getting started w hand planes.

Not so much how to adjust and sharpen, but more like how are they better than a belt sander ??

I know many are cringing reading this... but hey.. I have built two beautiful Kithens in my time, one solid ash even for cases and all shelves, plus MANY ther things.. It's just that I use a belt sander instead of a Plane.

And honestly.. chisel work is the same for me... tell me to recess a hinge leaf or even a door jamb strike and the work will look like a drunken idiot did it.

But, my machine work is ON THE NUTS accurate.

What am I missing ??

Mark, after reading this again, my conclusion is what you may be missing is the pleasure of using sharp chisels and plane blades. Recessing a hinge leaf or a door jamb strike plate are fairly easy with a sharp chisel. It is the sharpness that makes them easier to control so the work doesn't look like it was done by a drunken idiot.

The Craftsman planes were made by the big plane makers at the time. Depending on how old your Craftsman planes are they could be good planes for you to get started.

Is it possible for you to include some pictures of these?

It would be helpful in determining what your next step should be to see what you have to start. If possible, pictures of the taken apart to see the insides will be most helpful.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

I did not post this in "Neanderthal" cause they would have me buying $600/ piece Japanese chisels !!!! :eek:

I actually have a part time Pine Casket biz, and do just fine w stationary and hand held power tools.

My "Hand Planes" are limited to a PC and old Craftsman 3x21 belt sanders!!

I do own and old Craftsman block and approx ? 8" long plane, but really never use them.

I know I am missing something.

Please direct me to reading about getting started w hand planes.

Not so much how to adjust and sharpen, but more like how are they better than a belt sander ??

I know many are cringing reading this... but hey.. I have built two beautiful Kithens in my time, one solid ash even for cases and all shelves, plus MANY ther things.. It's just that I use a belt sander instead of a Plane.

And honestly.. chisel work is the same for me... tell me to recess a hinge leaf or even a door jamb strike and the work will look like a drunken idiot did it.

But, my machine work is ON THE NUTS accurate.

What am I missing ??

Thank you all, Marc

Marc, to be a serious handtool woodworker you need to spend at least $600 on each chisel, and then a set of either LN or Veritas bench planes. Possibly both. Look up "Holtey". :D

OK, you will benefit from a decent block plane (look at the LN #102). Since you are using machines for preparing your boards, I would just purchase one new bench plane at this stage, a Lee Valley (or Veritas) Low Angle Jack. Get two blades for this plane. One will be sharpened at 25 degrees, and the other with receive a 50 degree secondary bevel (on a 25 degree primary bevel). I'll explain this at a later time. The Craftsman smoother you have can likely be tuned up to work well, but God knows who made it and what condition it is in, so I reserve recommendation at this stage. That LA Jack is a superior all rounder: for smoothing, jointing and shooting. You will wind up building a shooting board for it, and then glory in the precise work you can achieve!

For chisels, buy just a couple, not a set - just the sizes you may need (e.g. 1/2" and 1"). Add to them as the need arises. Get decent ones (e.g. Veritas PM-V11) if you are already using chisels and know what to do. Otherwise you can get some inexpensive Narex, which have a good reputation. You do get what you pay for (in terms of edge holding, balance and finish), but a good workman does not blame his tools.

You need to sharpen these blades. What do you have to do this? Dull is both useless and dangerous. Perhaps you need a honing guide and a couple of stones?

What are you missing with hand tools? Quite simply, they allow for greater precision. If funds allow, I would suggest a Veritas Router Plane and a Veritas Shoulder Plane. These are joinery planes and they can aid in fine tuning. Power tools are important, but you are missing out as a craftsman if you allow them to dictate what you can and cannot do. Hand tools take you much further.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

Hand planing can remove undulations from your work and it can do so very expediently. I do very little sanding and on many projects I do not sand at all. Learning to sharpen and set the chip breaker on a Stanley type hand plane will pay off very quickly.

Ive not yet met a piece of wood which could not be finish planed with a #4 plane with proper set chip breaker.

[Robert Hazelwood]

The advantage over a belt sander is they can make a surface flatter, more geometrically accurate, with crisper corners and edges, and no dips or high spots when the grain is harder or softer (that tend to show up under a finish). Also, when you are done planing a surface you are ready to finish usually- if the finish you are using needs some tooth to bond to, you can just ROS at your final grit. I hate sanding so this is a big draw for me.

Less noise and less dust are pretty significant benefits, too.

The disadvantage is the learning curve, and to some extent the confusion and hype around the tools and equipment that make it sound more complicated than it really is. You need a decent smooth plane and some sharpening stuff (can just be sandpaper), you'll need to learn how to prep and set the chipbreaker to prevent tearout, learn how to get the iron *very* sharp, then learn how to set it for a good cut. It can be frustrating at first and the details do matter. You might benefit from in-person instruction from someone who knows how to do it, so you can see what planing should feel like and so they can tell you what you're doing wrong.

[Steve Wilde]

Wow, just looked up the Hotley planes, beautiful! Just slightly out of my price range🙄... I thought my LN planes were expensive!

[Jim Koepke]

What am I missing ??

Can a machine or sanding produce a surface like this:

405485

To the best of my memory this was done with an old Stanley/Bailey #5.

This was done with either a #3 or a #4-1/2:

405484

This is the project currently on my bench.

It is difficult to get a camera setup just right to catch a reflection in wood. It is easier to see it with the eye.

Neither of these pieces have any finish.

You do not need expensive tools. It would help you to know the target you are aiming to hit. This is where someone you know with hand plane experience might be of help.

jtk

[Ron Citerone]

When I learned to sharpen my woodworking improved tremendously. Learning to sharpen a block plane and a chisel is a game changer IMO.. I wold go Scary Sharp Method to do it cheaply and buy some old Stanley Chisels to start out. I bought a medium priced sharpening jig and was the best money I ever spent on woodworking.

[Derek Cohen]

For someone starting out from scratch I usually recommend W&D paper in the grits 240 (for creating a primary bevel), then 1000 (for a secondary bevel) and 2000 (for polishing). It is also possible to up the end level with Lee Valley green compound (scribbled on a flat chunk of hardwood or MDF). Buy a (cheap) copy of the Eclipse honing guide (available all over), and read about creating an angle setter for it (LN, amongst others, have one on their website). This is a cheap way of getting into sharpening. If you want to do it really cheaply, go here (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/The%2010%20Cent%20Sharpening%20System.html).

The reason I suggested a LA Jack, which is a bevel up plane (distinct from a Stanley #4, which is a bevel down plane), is that they are so easy to be proficient with. Less parts to set up, and they become sharpen, point and shoot.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jacob Mac]

I think you are missing precision, ability to fine tune quickly and safely, quiet, less sanding, and a new part of the craft. You sure don't need them, but it does make getting quality fits way easier.

A low angle jack plane is great. Stanley sells a decent one for cheaper than LV. IMO, it isn't as good as the LV, but it is way cheaper. You can find them for around $95 new last I checked.

[Martin Siebert]

Take about $6000.00 and buy every Lie Nielson hand plane in the Rockler catalog and get it over with all at once...because once you buy one you are going to eventually end up with every one ever made!!! and usually sooner than later!!! If there is any change left over use that to buy a few old antique planes because it doesn't stop with all the new ones. There is just something about planes that once you use one perfectly hair splitting sharp and in adjustment that leaves you hoping for the next board that needs planed.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I few years ago I was at the same place as the OP. But I had purchased 3,4 veritas planes. Used them occasionally but just for minor stuff. Went to a Woodcraft store and took a all day handplane class. Took away two lessons. For large long surface smoothing particularly from rough state what WASTE of time! But if and for me, that is a make or break if, you have and want to spend your time that way go take a class and learn how. You might find it enjoyable, kinda like doing all your plywood crosscutting with a handsaw.
The 2nd lesson that has been mentioned numerous times, learn how to sharpen and how often you need to touch up the blade. I came home and spent a few HOURS sharpening my plane blades and chisels and now when I find occasion to need them they do the job easily and pleasurably. But it is called Neanderthal forum for a reason. It is a mindset and I am grateful for the machine age that allows them to have chisels that are possibly worth$600.
I have been in some further out towns and villages in Guatemala a few times and most of their power equipment would be considered trash or too unsafe in the 1st world that most of us are privileged to live. They turn out furniture for custom and for retail and it looks good. But not up too most of our standards. Crappy equipment is a definite draw back. Obvious that sandpaper is the main way final smoothing is accomplished. Joints are another story. So my takeaway is that most of us reading this are damn lucky to have choices between excellent and maybe even better.

[Marc Jeske]

Believe me I greatly respect the Folks that have these skills..

I am absolutely awed by stuff like a Maloof chair.

I am at least curious.

But I dunno... at risk of being flamed, I don't see any point for myself anyway.. at least past a block plane for little touchups.

I don't have a major desire to learn it, got plenty of stuff to do like resurrect a DR 12/14 etc.. and my customers are more than happy w my product.. as I am.

I make sub $1k caskets... my market wants "Plain, simple, affordable"

I WILL look into the more basic facet of this.. tuning up what I have.. will post about that down the road..but will probably stop at that.

I very much appreciate the responses.. Please don't feel poo pood at all.

Thank you ALL !!

Marc

[Derek Cohen]

Marc, if you had posted at the beginning of this thread what applications you would put the hand tools to, I would have stated that you should stick to power tools. You make big boxes ... very nice big boxes ... but they do not have a lot of finesse, which is where hand tools are supreme. I see butt joints. I do not see joinery such as a mortice-and-tenon or a dovetail. If I were you and only building caskets, I'd keep doing what you are doing. Good work kept simple.

On the other hand, once you desire to venture into more complex pieces, where you wish to use traditional joinery, add fine mouldings, or work on a curve, etc etc ... then you will appreciate the extra level that hand tools can bring. I watched a brief video today that was send by FWW magazine. This featured Gary Rogowski adding 6 square plugs to the circumference of a round table top. He jokes that it took 1 1/2 hours to create a jig for his power router to drill the holes and to set up the jig, and then 6 minutes to actually drill the holes (which was to be followed by chisel work to square the holes). All this could have been done in a few minutes with hand tools. In sum, if you are building a lot of stuff that needs to be dimensioned, then power tools make more sense to do the donkey work. However, especially for one-offs, the finer work can be done more speedily with hand tools. Plus there are many tasks that can be done more easily, or only, with hand tools.

Try using a machine to make these drawers ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ApothecaryChestFinal_html_23b3cc36.jpg

... to fit into the curved front of this cabinet ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ApothecaryChestFinal_html_172dc901.jpg


Here is a very short video to illustrate ...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh4_iCVjyhU&feature=youtu.be

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Nguyen]

Rex Krueger on Youtube dropped a video last week in which he bought a super cheap Stanley hand plane on Amazon, and walked through the process of tuning it up to a usable state. Just apply the same process to your hand planes and see if you can get the same results. If anything, you'd have learn what a hand plane can do after 30 minutes in front of your computer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrMQrKn61kA

[kent wardecke]

405596
This is my beginners set the #5 is an ebay find $40 the #4 is a flea market find $12 I ran out of patience and got the two block planes from Patrick Leach cost me $110 since then I've picked up another block plane for $5 at a flea market. The chisels were $8 at Aldi.
Give the Neanderthals a chance they helped me and for every guy who recommends a $600 NL there's six guys recommending vintage because of the reasonable cost and the very high quality. Steve even invited me over to his shop and gave me a little lesson and tips for set up

[Jon Shank]

I would just echo what alot of the other folks have said about getting a really nice surface and doing it quickly. Another thing that I might have just missed but didn't see is the sound and feel of the hand planes as opposed to sanders. I have some sanders left(hand held, RO and 1/4 sheet sanders, no drum sander etc), I haven't used one in a bit but I will if there's a reason too, not really a purist. I prefer the surface I get from hand planes, and find I can do it usually faster with planes than powered sanders. And with negligible noise and dust I just find it alot more relaxing and enjoyable. I look forward to flattening and smoothing a surface, which I always dreaded doing with powered sanders because of the dust and noise and vibration. I mean ya gotta do it so you do it, it just is what it is, but like I said, I actually enjoy it with hand planes.
If you can tune one up to try, or maybe find someone nearby who can let you try theirs out, you can find out if you like them and if they have a place in your shop.

Jon

[Bernie Kopfer]

[QUOTE=Jon Shank;2908667]I would just echo what alot of the other folks have said about getting a really nice surface and doing it quickly. Another thing that I might have just missed but didn't see is the sound and feel of the hand planes as opposed to sanders. I have some sanders left(hand held, RO and 1/4 sheet sanders, no drum sander etc), I haven't used one in a bit but I will if there's a reason too, not really a purist. I prefer the surface I get from hand planes, and find I can do it usually faster with planes than powered sanders. And with negligible noise and dust I just find it alot more relaxing and enjoyable. I look forward to flattening and smoothing a surface, which I always dreaded doing with powered sanders because of the dust and noise and vibration. I mean ya gotta do it so you do it, it just is what it is, but like I said, I actually enjoy it with hand planes.
If you can tune one up to try, or maybe find someone nearby who can let you try theirs out, you can find out if you like them and if they have a place in your shop."

Your comments about noise and vibration got me to thinking that if perhaps the serious money invested in handplanes etc were spent on high quality powered tools it would be much more enjoyable and with good results.

[Brian Holcombe]

Handplanes are very fast an effective when well tuned. I surfaced a 53" wide countertop recently in about 20 minutes with a hand plane. I kept it flat, accurate and removed undulations left by machining.

After which I sanded 220grit ROS in preparation for finish and the sanding was very fast work given that the surface imperfections were already removed.

Just some thoughts. It's not just for the finest of fine work, but also very practical and fast.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Your comments about noise and vibration got me to thinking that if perhaps the serious money invested in handplanes etc were spent on high quality powered tools it would be much more enjoyable and with good results.

My whole shop probably cost me less than a Sawstop. I can do a lot more with what I have in my shop then I could do with a Sawstop.

Another member just posted about the 210 stitches he got with a tablesaw. You don’t often see the hand tool guys reporting those types of results.

[lowell holmes]

And to sharpen the planes, you will need these.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-10-Dia-Sharp-Diamond-Stone-P318.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwmq3kBRB_EiwAJkNDp1CZ-D3YtR0kKje11deXlqm9nIuW_jiUVM9KzHVcKv_B80ODU9bPXRo CnT8QAvD_BwE

[Marc Jeske]

My budget and needs I think are more like a piece of glass and wet dry paper !

And that's if I want to get fancy w my $10 chisels.

Otherwise the belt sander.

:eek:

Marc

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Here's a thought, wet/dry sandpaper is not cheap. You'll go through sheets pretty fast, one slip and your very sharp chisel cuts the paper in two. I do sharpen pushing the blade, not pulling. Personal preference on the last micro bevel. While waterstones are not cheap either, I think they are worth the investment, as reasonable care should make them last a lifetime. And you can sharpen the significant others' kitchen knives. Or yours if you cook.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I started with sandpaper, and if you use your tools you have to sharpen them, which means you have to replace the sandpaper. The other poster is correct that sandpaper gets expensive fast. As long as you do not have some fancy steel (and you do not if your chisels are $10), your budget option is probably an oilstone.

A medium or fine India stone and a strop will get you a pretty respectable edge and will be much cheaper than sandpaper in the long run.

Nick


My budget and needs I think are more like a piece of glass and wet dry paper !

And that's if I want to get fancy w my $10 chisels.

Otherwise the belt sander.

:eek:

Marc

[Jon Shank]

That's an option, personally I enjoy the peace and quiet when there isn't big donkey work to do. I've still got power tools for basic stock sizing, etc, and my lathe isn't going anywhere (or getting pedal power) but I just enjoy the unplugged tools for most joinery and most surfaces. And I haven't spent a fortune, the high end hand tools look great but I've always been what my wife, on a charitable day calls thrifty. I have refurbished tools that I've cleaned up and got working right, and fortunately I enjoy the process of reviving old tools, so it's just a little side line hobby.

All of that said, the quietest and nicest sander is never going to recreate the feeling and sound of a sharp plane taking a nice shaving, period. Might not be for you, but I dig it. If we all did the same thing, we'd have alot less to talk about.

Jon

[Jeff Leimberger]

Marc,

Some great advice in this thread! I think that anyone who is interested in using handplanes should try to find someone who uses them extensively for a brief consultation. Knowing how a properly set-up plane should work and giving it a try lets you know what to shoot for. Setting a plane up by watching a youtube video is amazing compared to what I was trying to glean from a book a couple of decades ago, but it is not quite the same.

Good luck

[Frederick Skelly]

My budget and needs I think are more like a piece of glass and wet dry paper !

And that's if I want to get fancy w my $10 chisels.

Otherwise the belt sander.

:eek:

Marc

Just my opinion here. But there's nothing wrong with using a belt sander with a higher grit (220 or higher if available) to shape the bevel. Then, polish the bevel on wet/dry paper. This doesnt have to be expensive. I used sandpaper for sharpening when I started out and the cost was manageable.

[George Yetka]

I would if I were starting over get 2 chisels(maybe 1/2" 1") and a Low angle jack. Later add more chisels if needed and a block plane. The plane doesnt matter as much as the cutting steel does, same with the chisels. It may not be what everyone thinks or what you want to here but A2 or better yet PMV-11 steel will hold an edge better than a cheeper steel will so spending money upfront will save you in the long run

[Robert Engel]

Marc,

Lets look at it simplistically: 1) buy plane, 2) learn how to hone, 3) learn how to set up plane, 4) learn how to use it.

2, 3, and 4 are all tied together in most instructionals.

1) I would start with a low angle block plane and a #4 smoother. You can actually go very far with just these two.

Sources: I wouldn't necessarily start with a premium plane like Lie Nielsen, but then again, there's nothing wrong with learning to drive in a Rolls either LOL.

A refurbished pre WWII Stanley is best, but if you don't want to spend the time finding one, IMO you're best source is the Woodriver planes sold by Woodcraft. These planes are not ready to use, so will require a little work out of the box (dissasemble/clean, flatten backs of irons, honing).

2) The second thing you'll need to address is your sharpening setup. Again, a matter of preference, but a good starter kit would be a coarse (300grit), medium 600), fine 91200)and extra fine (8000)stone. I prefer water stones but diamond stones also are great.

3) If you're not a book guy, YouTube is a great source of info. There are tons of videos on setting up a hand plane. My first suggestion is Paul Sellers.

[Aaron Rosenthal]

Marc, you have the answer from people MUCH better than myself for answering your question. I'm going to go another way.
There is absolutely no reason to upgrade or buy new equipment, either a $50.00 Flea Market/Ebay item, or a brand new premium tool.
You have satisfied customers for your product, and if you wanted to expand your business, more, not fewer, machines would be your better option.
If, however, you want to elevate your game, and offer a "premium" line, or you wanted to use wood for more intricate projects, hand tools to AUGMENT your power tools are in order. Re-look at Derek's post where he showcases his intricate furniture. His words of wisdom highlight much better than mine.
He does use machinery for "rougher" work, and then add the coup de grace with hand tools.
In your case, for what you do, my read is you have what you need to do the job. Where you go from here is up to you.

[Marc Jeske]

Really good comments from different angles.

I will go to some of the sources suggested and slowly get started on the basics.

Even though I do just basic production, I know I would benefit at the very least least grabbing the block plane occasionally.

Ya, I know that's pretty darn basic, just never got into the habit.

Thank you all very much.

Marc