Blade configuration for Stranded flooring (janka 4000)

[Bill Tarbell]

I've bought some stranded eucalyptus T&G flooring and i'm trying to determine the ideal way to cut it. It's significantly different than the more common non-stranded bamboo/eucalyptus flooring. This stuff is made by taking long strips (think thinly rived rather than cut) and using extremely high pressure to compress it into a board. It's got a heavy amount of some kind of adhesive in the mix. The end result is a 9/16 board that has a janka rating between 3300-4100. It also has the typical aluminum oxide coating that they put on laminate flooring.
https://www.calibamboo.com/product-natural-fossilized-eucalyptus-flooring-9009004001.html

With the hardness plus the al-oxide coating I'm not quite sure what kind of blade would be best. A high tooth count seems an obvious choice, but I'm torn between ATB or TCG. I'm worried the atb tips will dull quickly on the coating.

I've also read various reports saying things with the al-oxide coating should be cut on the table saw rather than miter saw. They mention plunge cuts through the coating will quickly dull the blade. Although, i assume this is negated if using a sliding miter saw. I've got the larger bosch articulated miter saw and the 1.5hp delta hybrid table saw they sell at lowes.

Anyone have any experience or suggestions for cutting arrangement on stranded flooring?

[Ole Anderson]

I helped my son install 800 sf of stranded bamboo just over two years ago. I also have it in my kitchen, but due to time constraints, I had a friend install it. Most cross cutting was done with a little Skil flooring saw I purchased at HD and have used on several flooring projects, bamboo and luxury vinyl plank. If you plan on doing much flooring, I strongly suggest using that. It is a slider so you are not doing a plunge cut. I used their upgrade carbide blade on it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Skil-7-0-Amp-4-3-8-in-Corded-Flooring-Saw-3601-02/205329478?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CAll-Products%7CAll%7CAll%7CPLA%7c71700000014585962%7c5 8700001236285396%7c92700010802552394&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5Y3kBRDwARIsAEwloL6BoQvI3w2nTvEixmUe gUsFC0Fb-YcgY5bspMQAHp0pyE9nhwA_STcaAvZzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Although if you have a SCMS, it should do the trick as long as you don't plunge into the wood. Typically you have the wood face down when you cut, except for the TS.

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcT1tCiSDD4Vx_fLibhzU6FxfdJtx6k zAN1PidSP5lFN7NRuti81BHMHXLJy0YVpovAf6LYesbiYrmI&usqp=CAc
While it will rip, it is a bit awkward for that purpose. We also used a HF 12" miter saw for angle cuts and a Kobalt table saw for ripping, all using the standard blades. At the end of the project, all blades needed sharpening, more likely due to the aluminum oxide in the finish than the hardness of the bamboo.

[Bill Tarbell]

Well that's an interesting tool that i've never seen before. The cost is fair and even diablo blades are dirt cheap since they're only 4" dia.

Since you used it successfully, is it safe to assume it had ample power for a 9/16" thick stranded floor?

[Ole Anderson]

Well that's an interesting tool that i've never seen before. The cost is fair and even diablo blades are dirt cheap since they're only 4" dia.

Since you used it successfully, is it safe to assume it had ample power for a 9/16" thick stranded floor? Yep. With the small diameter, thin kerf blade, not much power is needed, 7 amps is plenty.