Help with Stuck Router Collet

[Steve Reich]

I have a brand new Triton TRA001 that I received for Christmas. I am just now finishing building my router table and was going to use the router to cut the opening for my router plate. My pattern bit has 1/4 shank and out of the box the Triton comes with a 1/2 collet. I proceeded to remove the 1/2 collet so that I could insert the 1/4 collet. Well, I could remove the nut but the 1/2 inch collet remains suck in the armature. Moreover, when I tighten the nut, the collet itself doesn't loosen or tighten, and I can't even insert a bit with a 1/2 in. shank either. My guess is that the collet is defective, but I need to get it out so that I can install the 1/4 collet and then call the supplier (Tool Nut) and ask them for a new collet. In the image, you can see the collet nut removed with the collet still stuck in the shaft. In the second image you can see the 1/2 shank not fitting into the 1/2 collet. I am deeply grateful for any guidance.

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[Mike Cutler]

Is the shaft the collet is stuck in solid? In other words, can you fill it with a fluid?
If so you could try a solution of transmission fluid and acetone and hope that it can "creep" enough to aid removal.
One other trick is to fill it with anything intended for breaking loose stuck nuts and bolts, and make a small slide hammer to get behind the collet part inside.A 16D nail clamped in a set of vise grips and a small hammer to tap up on the face of the vise grips might free it.
Or buy a cheap one at harbor freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-puller-set-14-pc-63609.html?cid=paid_google%7C*PLA+-+All+Products%7CAll+Products%7C63609&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sCyFXfNbd%7Cpcrid%7C327822404853%7Cpkw%7C%7C pmt%7C%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid%7C%7Cproduct%7C63609%7Cpgr id%7C71439424048%7Cptaid%7Cpla-296227501805%7C&pgrid=71439424048&ptaid=pla-296227501805&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpuu30Zv14AIVg0SGCh3KSQsbEAQYASAB EgLXlfD_BwE

[Tom M King]

I don't see anything in the picture that would indicate it's a self-releasing collet. If it's not, that's not something you're going to be wanting in a router table. First thing would be to contact the retailer, and see what they have to say about it before trying anything yourself. If they will allow an exchange, I'd go with a brand that has a self-releasing collet.

[Al Weber]

I'd be looking for a new router as the fact that the entire upper assembly seems compromised would indicate to me that there may be damage that a new collet won't solve. You can't get a new collet to fit anyway if you can't get the internal piece out.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I've suggested this to others and it's worked. Get a hose clamp and tighten it around the collet. The collet may compress enough to get it out.

[Mike Cutler]

I've suggested this to others and it's worked. Get a hose clamp and tighten it around the collet. The collet may compress enough to get it out.

That's a great idea!!!

[Steve Reich]

Well, that didn't work. The collet compressed at the top as you suspected but the tapered bottom seems stuck. I think that the collet was tightened without a bit in it.

It is supposed to be a self-releasing collet.

[Tom M King]

How was the inner part attached to the outer part of the collet? They have to be attached to self-release.

[Rhys Hurcombe]

If that's how it came, return it. I have the exact same router and had no issue removing the 1/2" Collet. When tight, My collect is only about 3/4's the way down the thread on the router. Yours looks basically bottomed out in the thread.

[Steve Reich]

The quarter inch collet that I want to install is attached to a collet nut. That's why I think the 1/2 inch one in there is defective or broke. As I unscrewed it, the collet remained in there. It's a tapered shaft, multi-slit collet.

[Bill Dufour]

Take a good sized nail and put it in head first. Pull it to the side so it hooks under the collet. You may have to file it down a bit. Grab it with vise grips and use a dead blow hammer on the vise grips to pull the collet out. A carriage bolt might work as well and can be wrenched out with spacers and a nut.
On smaller sizes I will file or grind the nail head so it looks like a railroad spike with head only on 1/2. If there is room at the bottom I use the biggest nail I can fit in the hole.
Use safety glasses since things may go flying if it releases properly or improperly.

[Tom M King]

Sounds like something was missing from that collet to start with. There should be a snap ring under the edge of the inner piece that's under a shoulder machined in the nut. Look at the 1/4" one closely, and compare it to the 1/2" one.

[David Kreuzberg]

There should be a 1/2-inch to 1/4-inch reducing bushing included with the router. No need to remove the 1/2-inch collet - just remove the nut, drop in the bushing, replace the nut, drop in the router bit and tighten the nut.

[michael langman]

Steve, Put the nut back onto the spindle most of the way but do not tighten it and then rap the side of the nut with a small hammer or a piece of brass if you have it. Continue tapping the side of the nut and if you can pull up on the collet at the same time it would help.
If this does not work I would send it back to the manufacturer for a new router.

[Malcolm McLeod]

.... I would send it back to the manufacturer for a new router.

IMO at the very least the collet/nut assembly is defective (no longer a 'unit'). It is possible the spindle bore has been damaged as well..??

I see no story line of how Steve acquired the router - full price purchase, or 5-finger-discount:confused::eek::mad: - but I would be loathe to spend eleventy-seven hours 'fixing' a new purchase. And I would be mentally kicking myself every time I had to repeat a related 'fix' in the future: ruined parts due to bit creeping out of position; I ding a bit edge trying to pry it out of the collet; etc... DAMHIKT.

I am still working (not retired), so value my time accordingly. Others may enjoy the challenge and satisfaction of a fix, irrespective of the time investment. And still others may have hit their personal budget limits - - even with a 5-finger-discount;) . YMMV, but I'd just exchange it.

[Steve Reich]

Thanks for the words of wisdom, Malcom. I bought via Tool Nut--on sale--not a five-finger discount. Other than try the hose clamp, I've been reluctant to try much. I'm focusing on other things today and will wait to contact the manufacturer on Monday. Triton has a 3-year warranty, and they should stand behind a new purchase.

[Gary Ragatz]

Well, I could remove the nut but the 1/2 inch collet remains suck in the armature.

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Steve,

I have a Triton MOF001, just a few months older than your router. It's possible that the designs are different between the two models, but on my router, the collet and nut are an "assembly," and the collet is "captive" in the nut - the collet can move inside the nut, but you can't separate the two (at least not without some considerable effort). My router came with a 1/2" and 1/4" collet, and each one is an assembly, with its own nut.

So, if the design of your router is the same, just the fact that you have that nut sitting there by itself, separate from the collet, says to me that something's broken - it's not just "stuck."

[Bill Orbine]

Steve, Put the nut back onto the spindle most of the way but do not tighten it and then rap the side of the nut with a small hammer or a piece of brass if you have it. Continue tapping the side of the nut and if you can pull up on the collet at the same time it would help.
If this does not work I would send it back to the manufacturer for a new router.

This.... A good rap! Might take a few!

Avoid tightening collet without a proper size router bit shank otherwise the collet can become damaged.

[Pete Staehling]

There should be a 1/2-inch to 1/4-inch reducing bushing included with the router. No need to remove the 1/2-inch collet - just remove the nut, drop in the bushing, replace the nut, drop in the router bit and tighten the nut.
Nope, not the case on my Triton any way.

I just looked at my 1/2" collet. The multi slit collet and the collar are not meant to come apart as far as I can tell, so it is probably defective. There is no lock ring or anything, but the collet has a waist that prevents it from coming out of the lock ring. If you could get the collet out it might snap back into the lock ring, but if the router is new I'd exchange for a replacement. It may just get stuck again on subsequent usage.

The hose clamp thing around a 1/2" shaft only partially inserted and then pulled ala improvised dent puller would be my next choice. If it can't be sent back.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Steve, the manual for your router shows the nut and collet as an assembly. The new collet you want to install is an assembly and Gary's post above indicates his is an assembly. I'd be concerned that either the shaft of the router is damaged or the 1/2" collet assembly is damaged. I'd call for service on Monday or return the router. I'd better Titan's service department will take care of you.

[Bob Coates]

I use Bill's and Michael's method all the time to remove "stuck" items. When using driver drills on screws the bit becomes "stuck" couple of raps with object looses them to be remove easily.
Also agree with others, return to get correct one.
Bob

[Richard Coers]

Angle in a 3/4" square piece of wood so it contacts the edge near the top of the collet. Hopefully under that little ledge. Tap it from below with a hammer so you get a slight upward bump to it. During assembly someone didn't engage the collet into the nut correctly. Shouldn't take much of a rap to loosen.

[Bohdan Drozdowskyj]

The collet was tightened without any tool in it. As the nut is screwed down the collet is forced into the taper and reduces in diameter. Without a tool in it the collet reduces enough that it releases itself from the nut. Now the nut will unscrew and leave the collet behind.

It's not damaged, the shaft is not damaged but it can be very hard to remove. If you can get a grip on the collet with any kind of tool so that you can pull on it you might be able to release it. This will probably damage the collet so if you get it out I would replace the collet.

Leave the router running for some time until the armature shaft warms up. Then spray (cool) the collet (not the shaft) with something like WD40 this may help the collet release.

[Bruce Wrenn]

On a couple of my small PC trim routers, I loosen nut a couple turns, then place collet against work bench top, and whack the nut with collet wrench

[paul dyar]

I had similar problem with Milwaukee router. Had to put the nut on the Collet give it a rap to make it attach to the Collet.

[Keith Westfall]

I have one in an old Hitachi that sticks once in a while. With the nut off, I take a small brass drift and hit up (or down when installed in CNC) lightly around the end, rotating the shaft a bit each time. Usually comes right out after 3 - 4 taps.

[Pete Staehling]

Same exact problem and a resolution:
https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/303364
Hope it is helpful.

[Gary Ragatz]

The collet was tightened without any tool in it. As the nut is screwed down the collet is forced into the taper and reduces in diameter. Without a tool in it the collet reduces enough that it releases itself from the nut. Now the nut will unscrew and leave the collet behind.

Stumbled across a thread on another forum from just a couple of weeks ago. The OP there had a similar situation, and what Bohdan describes is what happened to her. She was able to free the collet with the hose clamp trick mentioned above. She said Triton customer service sent her a new collet assembly, no problem.

[Steve Reich]

Well, I worked on other things yesterday and then did some real work (like catching up on grading).

I addressed the problem with fresh resolve this morning. And problem solved. Bohdan's advice proved spot on. I ran the router for about 5 minutes to warm up the armature, sprayed a couple of drops of Boshield into the collet, tightened a hose clamp good around the collet, secured it into a vise gripe, locked it down, and yippee, it came right out.

I was then able to snap the collet back into the nut. I still can't get a half-inch shank bit into that collet. So, I will be calling Triton tomorrow to see if they can/will send a new collet. Thanks all for your great advice and ideas.

[Al Launier]

I've suggested this to others and it's worked. Get a hose clamp and tighten it around the collet. The collet may compress enough to get it out.

This should do it!

[Steve Reich]

Just a quick update on this thread from last month. Triton is sending me a new 1/2-inch collet. Customer service was great. Thanks again to all who helped me to resolve this issue.

[Jeff Davies]

Machinists sometimes use heatguns on stuck collets. What ever our problems in cabinetshops are with stuck collets ,,don't bring up the subject with a machinist... they have stuck collets !.