Quick easy cases?

[Pete Staehling]

I have often been asked by my customers about cases for my instruments (small travel sized mountain dulcimers). I find that when I start considering doing something I wind up looking at a project that is a lot more work and expense and will cost too big of a portion of the cost of an instrument. I think maybe I try to over engineer and over build them. I don't want to build something that is a lot of work or that I need to charge too much for, but quite a few of my customers do ask about something.

The cases would need to be quick and easy to build. I wouldn't mind some effort in setting up jigs and the overall process (I enjoy that process), but actual production needs to be quick and easy. I say production, but use the term loosely. I'd need a single case here and there. There could be a surge of existing customers wanting cases, but after that it would be one be several per year to be sold with new instrument purchases. On the other hand this could be one of those things that unexpectedly takes on a life of it's own (if that happens, I'd probably farm out the work). There would need to be a few sizes, the most popular holding an instrument roughly 22" long by 4" wide and 3" high.

It would be nice if they could be used as a shipping box maybe with something like thin cardboard or something added. Keeping them pretty light would be a big help with shipping costs especially with international sales. That said, I could just not offer them for international sales which are only a small part of my overall sales.

Any thoughts on building something like that? Or should i just continue to say no to folks asking for cases?

[Carl Beckett]

I have purchased third party cases and modified the lining to fit a particular instrument. I am not sure you can build something as light/durable as you could purchase it for, and it will get beat up over time so I wouldnt want it too fancy.

I do like the idea of offering a case to go with the instrument. But maybe find a nice one and simply modify it to fit and go from there...

$.02

[Jamie Buxton]

If you're building to a budget, don't do joinery. Build the case like a shipping crate. It will look like a shipping crate, not fine furniture, but that's what you want for shipping. Each face is made from quarter-inch plywood or OSB, with 1x1 pine onlayed at the edges, glued to the plywood. Use a brad gun with the heads on the inside to hold the 1x1 in place while the glue dries. Glue and/or screw the panels together at the edges to form the crate. If you think the crate will be reused a lot, hinge the top. Use trunk latches to latch the lid. Build a nest for the instrument with foam cut out to match the instrument's outline.

[Frederick Skelly]

Do you want just a shipping crate or a weekly-use instrument case, or both? I've built inexpensive, strong and not-unattractive tool cases from 1/2" baltic birch plywood and lined them with foam that I cut to shape. For joinery, Ive used screwed/glued butt joints (strong if you glue the bottom on instead of laying it in a groove), miters reinforced with glued-in corner blocks and box joints (buy or make the jig). I believe all of them are sturdy enough to be used as checked luggage on an airplane if needed, though I haven't actually done so. In the size you describe, any of those should be quite strong if built properly. As Jaime noted, hinge the top and use strong hinges and latches.

Try one and see how much time and money it takes you.

Remember to post pics!
Fred

[Brice Rogers]

I don't know the size of your small mountain sized dulcimer, but I looked on Amazon and saw more than a dozen cases listed. Most looked like they would protect the dulcimer from scratches but weren't intended for shipping. Also, if you want a more rugged case, such as for shipping or for air travel consider a hard-sided (plastic) rifle case. I think that some are around 36" long +/- and others up to 48" (probably too big for you). Pelican has a full line of rugged cases.

[Pete Staehling]

I have had good luck shipping safely in cardboard for both domestic and international orders, so the shipping function is really more just a function of getting the instrument and case to the customer. I think my customers want something nicer than a typical shipping box, but may be happy with less than nice joinery. I think they usually want something they would take on travel or carry to weekly dulcimer sessions. My most popular models would all fit in a 24" long case that was at least 4.5 - 6" wide inside and 3" deep inside or a bit more.

If you are interested in more details of the instruments check them out at featherdulcimer.com. The most popular models are the Sparrow and the Goldfinch.

[Andrew Joiner]

How about this style. Quick and easy.


https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRoG2vWjc0ko9oydejJUCGr6mofmVvk3 dIgCPuXvs79eeoplxP7

[Ralph Okonieski]

I just built cases for several Xmas presents being given this year. I used 1/2 Baltic birch for the sides and top, 1/4 inch ply for the bottom. The sides were joined by lock mitre done with the router table. The bottom is screwed to the sides, the top is hinged. The lock mitre is fast once setup and strong. Building was fast but the finishing with stain and top coat goes much slower.

i forgot to mention that the top and bottom were cut slightly oversize, then flush routed for perfect fit.

[Jim Becker]

I like Ralph's suggestions, although Andrew's idea might also work. The conundrum with building and supplying hard cases is that folks immediately love to "challenge" their strength, including shippers if you don't put them in additional packaging. So despite needing to be somewhat light-weight, they still need to be able to stand up to what they are invariably going to be subjected to.

[Pete Staehling]

Thanks. I'll mull that all over a bit before maybe trying a prototype or two.

[Eric Anderson]

If I was going to ship something valuable and delicate by air, I'd have to go with a pelican case with foam inserts cut to cushion the instrument. I ship very expensive electronic instruments around the world, and the pelican cases are hard to beat (and can take a real beating without damaging the stuff inside.

[Bob Michaels1]

I suspect a sturdy and affordable, however not very elegant, solution could be easily made from pvc sewer pipe with a glued on cap at one end and a screwed on clean out cover on the other end. Add a leather strap for easy carrying. You will need 4" or 6" pipe and accessories. NOt elegant but it sure would be a good transport case.

[Earl McLain]

Pete--i've got a few acoustic guitars that i bought in the $400 to $500 range, and didn't give a thought to spending $150 on a case because i respected the instruments. In fairness--i was in a weekly circle for several years and there was a guy who brought an early 1960's Braz Rosewood D-28 every week in a zippered men's suit bag--i think just to drive a few of us nuts!! Most of the dulcimer players i've run into through the years would appreciate a wood case over blow-mold--just the nature of the folks. Baltic birch, soft maple or red oak would all seem okay. Shoot, sides of walnut with lid/bottom from Baltic would be pretty cool, and 2 board feet would be plenty for the sides.
earl

[Richard Coers]

I made a wooden case for the dulcimer I made for my wife from a large crown moulding. Looked fantastic, until. Lots of handling over a few years took a toll on all the corners. Second wood case was just a rectangular box with brass corner protectors. Still looked rough after a few years. I've even seen hard cases covered in vinyl. They look tough pretty quickly as well. She finally retired both for a soft case and that protects and looks great after many years. Wood is just not the greatest material for these.

[Pete Staehling]

I have considered the PVC pipe case idea and like some things about it, but it seems pretty heavy and clunky even in schedule 40. I might keep my eyes open for various tube sources (document tubes, etc?). As far as getting the instruments shipped safely I have had good luck with cardboard boxes. I typically wrap the instruments in bubble wrap and put egg cartons cut to fit around them. If I don't have egg cartons I use more traditional packing materials. I have probably shipped a couple hundred instruments successfully.

I have looked at Pelican cases, but they didn't seem to come in the best sizes for my purposes and seemed kind of overkill. I do mention them as an option for my customers to seek out themselves, but am not aware of any actually using them.

Earl, what you describe is what I have kind of leaned toward.

I have tinkered with coroplast and used one made from that myself on one long road trip. I could imagine something similar to what Earl describes, but with coroplast instead of baltic birch. The birch could be an extra cost option on the same type case. That is assuming I can get coroplast a lot cheaper than birch (I have not priced it in years). Not sure if the coroplast would cheapen the finished product too much. It does come in colors and if the edges were hidden might not look too bad. It is structurally pretty strong when it only has to span 6" as long as the grooves run across the span.

If I give up on the shipping case idea they can probably be pretty light duty. I can imagine a frame of 1/2" lumber and 1/8 Baltic birch.

What I have heard that my customers actually use... Bags sewn up out of quilted fabric, a bag made from the sleeve of an old coat, hard cases made for other instruments, photo tripod cases, firearm cases, and even a crocheted bag.

[Pete Staehling]

Okay so after think about this a bit more... I am thinking of going with a light duty carrying case or nothing at all. The shipping box option is out at least for now.

I made a mock up of a possible method. It is just a corner of the case and was made with some scraps. The corner is from construction grade 2x4, the narrow sides are cheap ply (nominally 1/4"), and the faces are nice 1/8" Baltic birch. The actual product would not use the cheap ply. I figure the case would open and have a handle and latch(s) briefcase style.

The 1/4" ply may need some reinforcement along the unsupported edge of the opening. That would probably not be on the lid, but can engage the lid when closed. The shape of the corner could be changed to accommodate that reinforcement.

I figure that the corner is kind of a pain to make up, but could be done in a big batch and then used as needed. So set up for it would be a once in a while thing. Also it would be the same for any size case.

I have not yet given much thought to interior design of the case wrt padding and supports.
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[Reinis Kanders]

Looks nice. I like the thin sides and bottom. If you use fragrant wood it would smell nice as well. I like Spanish cedar or white cedar smell.

[Mel Fulks]

I'd use the vintage suit case model. 1/8 th inch plywood with glue blocks . One or two thin struts on top and back. Glue
light canvas to all of the outside. Paint or advise client to paint.

[Jim Becker]

I like your construction idea there, Pete.

[Pete Staehling]

I made a wooden case for the dulcimer I made for my wife from a large crown moulding. Looked fantastic, until. Lots of handling over a few years took a toll on all the corners. Second wood case was just a rectangular box with brass corner protectors. Still looked rough after a few years. I've even seen hard cases covered in vinyl. They look tough pretty quickly as well. She finally retired both for a soft case and that protects and looks great after many years. Wood is just not the greatest material for these.
I hope that it will help that my instruments are far smaller than the typical dulcimer so the case will be about half as long and far less mass and volume.

[kent wardecke]

I like the idea of cases .I made a gun case and will make more of them. I'm interested in what you come up with, particularly what type of joinery makes efficient use of time 405041

[Tom Bender]

Give cardboard another look. It's light, inexpensive, easy to work with and demonstrably robust enough. It can be dressed up by clever fabrication and with screen printed labeling it will look appropriate in many settings. Make it a box in a box for shipping.

[Pete Staehling]

Give cardboard another look. It's light, inexpensive, easy to work with and demonstrably robust enough. It can be dressed up by clever fabrication and with screen printed labeling it will look appropriate in many settings. Make it a box in a box for shipping.
Good point. There is a wide range of how it can be used ranging from applications where it is obviously cardboard, but pretty nice; to where there are cardboard parts but you wouldn't know it to look at it. There is also a wide range in the quality of the cardboard itself.

I am intrigued. Do you have any links to examples to what you are thinking of?