Glue spreaders

[Carl Beckett]

What are your favorites? (besides your fingers, which is my 'go to')

Especially interested in:

Dominos, and corresponding mortises

Edge glueup

Large flat surfaces

Do any of you use spreaders/applicators and how well do you like them?

[Lee Schierer]

Per my Dentist's recommendations we change out our toothbrushes regularly. The old ones migrate to my shop where they begin service as glue spreaders. The are less mess than using fingers. After application the brush ends get submerged in a plastic glass of water to dissolve out the glue and they are ready for the next glue job. If one gets all dried out, it goes to the trash.

[glenn bradley]

Other than the aforementioned fingers, the little plastic paddles are my go-to. Several outfits have them. I bought some from Lee Valley a decade ago and have only used two of them. If you don't lose them they last quite a while. I see they do not list them anymore but, they are like Peachtree's item 3306.

[Jacob Reverb]

Toothbrushes, acid brushes, broken-off pieces of hacksaw blade.

If using epoxy, the tools get washed with vinegar, then Gojo Orange, then Dawn dish soap and then dried for the next use.

[Doug Garson]

I use wooden coffee stir sticks for small surfaces, for larger surfaces I use silicone basting brushes from the dollar store. If I forget to wipe the glue off the end of the stick I just cut 1/2" off the end with wire cutters, glue doesn't stick to the silicone brushes so if I forget to rinse them it just peels off.

[Steve Wurster]

Other than the aforementioned fingers, the little plastic paddles are my go-to. Several outfits have them. I bought some from Lee Valley a decade ago and have only used two of them. If you don't lose them they last quite a while. I see they do not list them anymore but, they are like Peachtree's item 3306.

I use those same plastic paddles as well. I love 'em.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Normally use my fingers.
I use disposable chopsticks. You can cut them into chisel shapes to get rid of squeeze out. Can use it multiple times, just cut off the end that's all glued up. If you're REALLY cheap like I am, wash off the used ones and use that. Couple bucks get you a batch of 50 or so.

[Jim Andrew]

On edge glue-ups, I just use my finger as a guide, and run a bead of glue the proper size down the center of the board. Must be right, as I get little beads of glue on both sides of the joint. On tenons, and door frames I use acid brushes. Keep a bit of water in a cup to drop the brushes in, and change off as the brushes get stiff.

[Charlie Jones]

I use my finger to. At least up to now. I just got one of the new silicone glue brushes from Klingspor. Now I just let the glue dry and pull it off (PVA). I also use old credit cards for spreading on large areas.

[Jay Aubuchon]

For large surfaces, I use an ink brayer. (https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Deluxe-Soft-Rubber-Brayer/dp/B003IFY622/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Brayer&qid=1551377050&s=gateway&sr=8-6)

For edges, I use a silicone glue brush (https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-45624-Silicone-Glue-Brush/dp/B0076WSG42/ref=sr_1_7?crid=18DZOSH8ZSZDU&keywords=silicon+glue+applicator&qid=1551377226&s=gateway&sprefix=Silicon+glue+%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-7).

For tight spaces, I often use an acid brush, sometimes trimmed.

[Dan Hulbert]

Hotel door key cards, coffee stir sticks shaped to match need, acid brushes cut off a bit, mostly fingers.

[Cary Falk]

I have acid brushes for small stuff and the Rockler assorted set of silicone spreaders.

[David Zaret]

if you're asking for bigger scale, and willing to spend some money, consider a Pizzi glue pressure pot. i have one, with a bunch of applicators for veneering, edge gluing, dominos, etc., and at this point i couldn't live without it. granted, it's perhaps overkill for a hobbyist, but for larger projects i've found it invaluable.

[John TenEyck]

I like the Rockler silicone paddle/brush, too, for M&T and finger joints. For epoxy on M&T joints I mostly use disposable acid brushes. For veneering large surfaces I use plastic resin glue and a uniform coat of glue is key to success. For that I have been using disposable foam roll covers, cut in half so they are 4-1/2" wide. But they consume 60 gms of resin each so I just ordered a silicone glue roller that I hope works so I waste less glue. https://www.amazon.com/DCT-Silicone-Roller-Wood-Applicator/dp/B07FTX8LY6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=silicone+glue+spreader&qid=1551386908&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 When I veneer with epoxy I use a plastic Bondo type spreader that I cut shallow notches in.

John

[Nick Decker]

I like the Rockler silicone paddle/brush, too, for M&T and finger joints. For epoxy on M&T joints I mostly use disposable acid brushes. For veneering large surfaces I use plastic resin glue and a uniform coat of glue is key to success. For that I have been using disposable foam roll covers, cut in half so they are 4-1/2" wide. But they consume 60 gms of resin each so I just ordered a silicone glue roller that I hope works so I waste less glue. https://www.amazon.com/DCT-Silicone-Roller-Wood-Applicator/dp/B07FTX8LY6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=silicone+glue+spreader&qid=1551386908&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 When I veneer with epoxy I use a plastic Bondo type spreader that I cut shallow notches in.

John

I have that glue roller and use it often. Works great for me, although I sometimes wish it was larger. I don't use it to apply glue, just to spread it out once it's squeezed out on the surface.

[Jim Becker]

I have a few flat, flexible "plasticy" things for spreading wide areas and use inexpensive "acid" brushes for edges. Sometimes, I just grab a scrap of wood. LOL

[John TenEyck]

I have that glue roller and use it often. Works great for me, although I sometimes wish it was larger. I don't use it to apply glue, just to spread it out once it's squeezed out on the surface.

Thanks for your input Nick. Gives me hope it will work, and significantly cut down on glue usage (and $'s). Many glue-ups only need 100 gms of resin. 60 gms more just for the roller is quite a waste.

John

[johnny means]

I've tried almost every object that could possibly smear glue. This has become my go to.

[Ed Gibbons]

Glue brushes from Woodcraft.

[Bernie Kopfer]

Old credit cards cut with pinking shears. Makes a great serrated edge and very cleanable. Do not use wife's good ones. DAHIK. Bought wife new one and shop inherited old pair.

[Christian Hawkshaw]

I have a few flat, flexible "plasticy" things for spreading wide areas and use inexpensive "acid" brushes for edges. Sometimes, I just grab a scrap of wood. LOL

I save a lot of scrap slivers from ripping wood to size for either glue applicators or paint(finish) paddles. For dovetails, I find acid brushes work best. For mortises, I find the wood slithers work great. For larger surfaces, I use a putty knife. In most cases, I will start by applying the glue with the squirt bottle, then spread the glue out with the applicator.

[Jamie Buxton]

Finger for edge gluing.
For getting glue into mortises, domino holes, and biscuit holes, the end of a six-inch machinist's rule. I already have it at hand, so there's no cost to it.
For spreading glue over large areas, it depends upon what glue. For ordinary wood glue, I use a toothed trowel. It is a steel one with small teeth, intended for spreading adhesive under linoleum. For smaller areas, I make a toothed trowel from a dead credit card. I just notch the edges with a bandsaw; no need to acquire pinking shears for the shop. For spreading epoxy, which I now use for most veneering and laminating, I use a paint roller. The nap on the roller cover is as short as I can find. I generally buy 8" covers, and cut them into 4" ones.

[John TenEyck]

Oh, you were right about it being small. Very small. The roller is only about 1-1/2" wide. That sure wasn't obvious from the picture. Anyway, it's too small for doing panels, but might be great for spreading glue on edge glue ups.

I wish I could find something like it but 4 - 5" wide and 1 - 2" diameter.

John

[Jon Nuckles]

For edge gluing I often run a glue bead down one piece sitting with the glue edge facing up, then rub the mating piece over it a bit to spread the glue evenly on both pieces. I either manipulate the top board to cover any bare spots or use my finger.
For most other joints, I use the small plastic paddles or a small strip of wood that I cut from appropriately sized off-cuts every now and then when I run low.
For dovetails, I use the plastic paddles or acid brushes.
My fingers almost always get involved in the process and the front of my jeans usually shows evidence that I wipe the glue off without thinking.

[bill epstein]

No one likes the 3 piece set of spreaders sold alongside Bondo? Just the thing for Urea Resin when I do veneer. Unlike Bondo though, the hardened resin doesn't just flake off, you have to keep ahead of it.

PVA I use the 4" hard rubber roller I bought I know not where after pouring or squirting it on the work piece. Acid brushes or fingers for the nooks and crannies.

Just as in life, everything works sometimes.

[Mike Ontko]

I'll use a finger to spread the glue if I'm edge-joining anything up to 3/4-inch. For M&Ts and similar surfaces, either an acid brush or a cheapie chip brush (pictured below, I think they use pig hair) with the hairs cut short. And if it's a wide surface, like a veneer or a face gluing of some kind, then I'll use a square notched spreader with something like a 1/16-inch notch (pictured).

404809 404810

[Mike King]

For edge gluing, I like a palette knife:

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-palette-knives-4pc-set

For larger glueups I use a medium density glue roller designed for veneering:

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Veneer-Glue-Roller.html

Mike

[Andrew Seemann]

It's so dry in the shop in the winter, when I do most of my woodworking, that thinly spread glue can dry before I get the pieces together. Normally I don't spread woodworking glue prior to assembly. I lay medium sized lines across the surface, guessing how much would be needed to make an even coat, and then put the pieces together. For edge gluing I rub the joint up and down a little before applying the clamps. Since I get a little squeeze out top and bottom. I'm pretty sure I am getting an even coating. For joints like mortice and tenon, I apply glue to the tenon, more towards the end and put them together. For dovetails and finger joints, I dab some glue on the end of the fingers and slide them together. I haven't had any joint failures, so I presume this method is working:)

If I have a particularly large or complicated glue up, I use liquid hide glue if I can, since it has a much longer open time and doesn't dry out as fast.

[Greg Parrish]

Love that little silicone glue roller linked above too. Wish I had a few sizes of them for various things.

[Jon Nuckles]

I have the veneer supplies foam roller linked above, but it is a bit of a hassle to clean so I use it only when really needed. Based on the recommendations here, I just ordered the silicone roller from Amazon and look forward to trying it. Thanks.

[Stan Calow]

popsicle sticks / tongue depressors. Got a whole bag of them at a garage sale for pennies. I like them especially for epoxy as you can mix and go right to application. acid brushes for the more intricate stuff.

[marlin adams]

I been using different size bondo spreaders. They are real flexiable and soft enough to spread glue with. You can get different sizes and or a multi pack real cheap.

[al heitz]

Cut up pieces of stiff pasteboard, acid brushes, anything stiff and thin that I can throw away when I'm done.

[John Goodin]

I have the 1 1/2" ink brayer Jay mentioned above. Great for getting a thin, consistent surface on larger glue ups.

[Don Bullock]

I use the silicone brushes from Rockler. Once I noticed how easily dried glue comes off of them I bought some silicone basting brushed on Amazon which work great too. I did a video showing how I use the silicone brushes and a big surprise at the end regarding epoxy. My YouTube Channel is WB Fine Woodworking — Channel LINK: https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCOg7YlVvNcgMhwoVakth49g. VIDEO LINK: https://youtu.be/76I5X0kxu4A

[Bill Dufour]

I used to use the woodworkers of amercia club card that came in the mail every few months. Now I pick up a few gift cards from the display rack at any retail store.
Bil lD.

[Charles P. Wright]

For dominos in particular, I just use another domino. Put glue on one side, rub another domino against it, and both of them have a nice layer of glue all over. Repeat with the other side. Of course there is always one odd one left over that I use the glue bottle's nozzle on.

[Todd Hyman]

For panel glue ups I use old hotel room keys.

[lowell holmes]

Check this site:
https://www.google.com/search?q=small+glue+spatula&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=N1K2qH13vlpD1M%253A%252CkMw32zpY2npGNM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kSRbWPbRgMcOFqTTusXWOnOsbXb-w&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi9s_yQiurgAhVPYK0KHR00DukQ9QEwAnoECAUQC A#imgrc=N1K2qH13vlpD1M:

[Rich Engelhardt]

Composite shims work well - both for glue & as a small putty/Spackle/dry wall mud knife.
I usually have bunches of them laying around the job site when I'm working on a rehab.

At home, I use the Rockler silicone brush, the Dollar Store basting brush & acid brushes from Harbor freight.
I used to use the chip brushes Harbor Freight sells by the carton, but, they got too expensive.

[Brian Tymchak]

Oh, you were right about it being small. Very small. The roller is only about 1-1/2" wide. That sure wasn't obvious from the picture. Anyway, it's too small for doing panels, but might be great for spreading glue on edge glue ups.

I wish I could find something like it but 4 - 5" wide and 1 - 2" diameter.

John

I've used the disposable trim paint rollers (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Warner-3-in-Trim-Roller-with-Tray-205332/205053119?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD24%7CMulti %7CNA%7CPLA%7CAll_Paint_Smart%7c71700000048001153% 7c58700004793621602%7c92700041080545873&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIquaAxZzr4AIVJh6tBh0ZawuYEAYYAiAB EgLByvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) from Home Depot. They're about 3" long, maybe an 1" diameter. Roller refills are cheap. Spreads glue very quickly and evenly. Worked very well when I built my workbench. Think I picked that tip up from Popular Woodworking article on a bench-build they did.

[Bill Carey]

my usual cast of characters
405064