Steve Wurster
02-25-2019, 7:59 PM
I've had my K3 Winner for about 5 months now, and I absolutely love it. The other day I got a few burn marks when cutting some pieces using the slider. It looked like the riving knife was actually pushing against the piece, causing the back teeth of the blade to contact the work. At the time I ended up pushing on the blade guard slightly to ensure the riving knife was truly vertical as the piece went through. That was sufficient for the few remaining cuts I had to make at the time.
This afternoon I went to swap out the zero-clearance insert so I could run some bevels, and I noticed the entire riving knife housing was loose. The riving knife itself was tight; it wasn't going to move up or down, or front to back. Instead, it would rock side to side (i.e. left and right of the blade). The problem was the entire riving knife support structure and attached belt guard were loose. These are the parts outlined in yellow in the attached picture (blade and riving knife are obviously removed here). There was a LOT of wiggle in this piece, and I guess the zero-clearance insert was really the only thing keeping the riving knife mostly stable.
To remedy the problem I had to remove the bolt referenced by the green arrow in order to loosen up the belt guard. I could not figure out how to remove that guard; it's not attached on the right above the arbor, but is somehow connected on the bottom right. Thankfully it loosens up a good bit with just that bolt removed. With the guard loose I was able to get a hex key onto the bolt referenced by the red arrow, which as you can see is partly blocked by the belt, making it tough to access. That bolt is where the system was really loose. That appears to be the same type of bolt as that referenced by the blue arrow; it's got 2 washers of increasing size, and both are used as part of the blade raising and lowering mechanism (the holes they go into are elongated, as you can easily see on that blue one).
I tightened up both of those bolts (red and blue arrows) and the wiggle was gone. I didn't make them super tight; just snug. Raising the blade seems to require a little bit more effort than before, but it's not too difficult. Lowering the blade requires almost no effort. I replaced the bolt at the green arrow, put my blade and riving knife back in, and made a handful of bevel cuts without any problems or burning. I have not yet put my blade back to 90 degrees, so I haven't verified the behavior there yet.
Has anyone seen this before? I didn't search online for this issue yet, nor have I looked in any of the manuals I have for the saw. Obviously this is quite annoying and I would like to eliminate this problem entirely or at least delay the time before it happens again. Being unable to easily get to that bolt by the red arrow makes it difficult to apply any thread lock, so I was hoping there might be a different solution.
Thanks,
Steve
404471
This afternoon I went to swap out the zero-clearance insert so I could run some bevels, and I noticed the entire riving knife housing was loose. The riving knife itself was tight; it wasn't going to move up or down, or front to back. Instead, it would rock side to side (i.e. left and right of the blade). The problem was the entire riving knife support structure and attached belt guard were loose. These are the parts outlined in yellow in the attached picture (blade and riving knife are obviously removed here). There was a LOT of wiggle in this piece, and I guess the zero-clearance insert was really the only thing keeping the riving knife mostly stable.
To remedy the problem I had to remove the bolt referenced by the green arrow in order to loosen up the belt guard. I could not figure out how to remove that guard; it's not attached on the right above the arbor, but is somehow connected on the bottom right. Thankfully it loosens up a good bit with just that bolt removed. With the guard loose I was able to get a hex key onto the bolt referenced by the red arrow, which as you can see is partly blocked by the belt, making it tough to access. That bolt is where the system was really loose. That appears to be the same type of bolt as that referenced by the blue arrow; it's got 2 washers of increasing size, and both are used as part of the blade raising and lowering mechanism (the holes they go into are elongated, as you can easily see on that blue one).
I tightened up both of those bolts (red and blue arrows) and the wiggle was gone. I didn't make them super tight; just snug. Raising the blade seems to require a little bit more effort than before, but it's not too difficult. Lowering the blade requires almost no effort. I replaced the bolt at the green arrow, put my blade and riving knife back in, and made a handful of bevel cuts without any problems or burning. I have not yet put my blade back to 90 degrees, so I haven't verified the behavior there yet.
Has anyone seen this before? I didn't search online for this issue yet, nor have I looked in any of the manuals I have for the saw. Obviously this is quite annoying and I would like to eliminate this problem entirely or at least delay the time before it happens again. Being unable to easily get to that bolt by the red arrow makes it difficult to apply any thread lock, so I was hoping there might be a different solution.
Thanks,
Steve
404471