First lathe

[Allen (AJ) Breese]

I'm thinking about getting my first lathe, without breaking the bank. My first question is has anyone hand any luck turning say 2 18" spindles / legs & joining them together to make a 36" spindle / legs, what I'm thinking is with a stud. My next question is how low of a speed should I look for, I don't see my self doing any thing any bigger diameter than may be 12 - 14 inch's? Any other input would be helpful. Thanks

[Chris A Lawrence]

Whats your budget? Hard to recommend something without it.

[Alex Zeller]

Try to think of everything you might do. Is your plan just spindles? What will they be used for? What other equipment do you have? Wood blanks for bowls and vessels tend to be out of balance and require much lower speeds. Are you open to buying a used lathe?

[tom lucas]

I would look at the < $600 new for a first lathe. I like the Grizzly G0844 due to the 14" swing. Many times you'll want to turn over the banjo and that eats about 2" of your swing. Unfortunately, the G0844 is currently of stock. Another issue is the length. It's only 20" and they don't list an extension explicitly for this model. Though one of the other extensions may work. On that, you'd have to call Grizzly. Their extensions are very reasonably priced. The Nova 1624 is another option. Though it's about $1200.

I would also looked used. Many good makes out there.

Don't know about the spindle splicing. You see it on bed posts, but usually above the load bearing parts. Might depend on the weight load expected for the application. I suspect how you separate them will matter too. I think you'd want some sore of ball and socket design so they support one another once assembled.

[Allen (AJ) Breese]

I would say 500 - 1000 range.

[John K Jordan]

I'm thinking about getting my first lathe, without breaking the bank. My first question is has anyone hand any luck turning say 2 18" spindles / legs & joining them together to make a 36" spindle / legs, what I'm thinking is with a stud. My next question is how low of a speed should I look for, I don't see my self doing any thing any bigger diameter than may be 12 - 14 inch's? Any other input would be helpful. Thanks

I would worry about the join giving out in a chair leg - they can get a lot of abuse. Maybe it would work if reinforced with a steel rod 8-10" long.

If you can find a used Jet 1642 or similar it will do everything you want - variable speed (low or high), plenty of power, can turn long spindles, bowls up to 16" diameter, whatever. I've had one for over 15 years. But I don't know what a current fair used price is today - I bought a second one used for around $1500 maybe 5 years ago.

As always, it's highly recommended a new turner attend meetings at a local woodturning club. We've had a number of people join the club even before they had a lathe just to learn more about turning and what kind of lathe might be best for them.

JKJ

[Bill Bukovec]

I would recommend that you stay away from the Delta models with Reeves drives (if you buy used) . Delta no longer sells the replacement Reeves pulleys.

[Thomas Wilson80]

I’ve been looking for used lathes for the last 2 1/2 years in Chicago metro region for a 16”+ lathe and have only seen a couple come up on Craigslist and one through local club that I recently joined, but none for less than $2000 and they didn’t seem to come with significant accessories - a jet 1640 for around $2200, a Grizzly G0766 for over 2k, and a used 3520A for $2500.

Maybe ive missed some but the used market seems pretty scarce and I’m pretty much resigned to saving up and buying new.

[tom lucas]

A 3520, if in good shape, would be a great buy at $2500. A G0766 is ~ $2100 new. Yeah, there are some who want near full price, or more simply because they overpaid. Also, try fb market place. And the suggestion to join a club is really good advice. Often times you'll find a member who is selling a lathe. And the wealth of information shared can't be underestimated.

[John Keeton]

I think you will have trouble getting what you want in your price range. As to the glued leg, 36” is a long leg. Table height is 30”, chair height is 17”. I guess you could be talking about straight back chair legs, but those are usually much longer than 36”. In any event, IF the mortise and tenon were properly done and IF the glue was the right glue and IF the join was properly done, then it should be stronger than the wood itself.

[Alex Zeller]

When I first started looking at new lathes (before the import tariff) the Grizzly G0462 was at the top of my list. It's a reeves drive unit vs the more expensive electronic variable drive models. But it was well under $1000 with shipping (with the added tariffs it's still in your price range). It's got plenty of power and if you feel the need for it others have converted them to EV. The bed is plenty long enough so you shouldn't have to worry about gluing two spindles together. It seams to fit your budget and requirements.

[Brice Rogers]

....has anyone hand any luck turning say 2 18" spindles / legs & joining them together to make a 36" spindle / legs, ...how low of a speed should I look for, I don't see my self doing any thing any bigger diameter than may be 12 - 14 inch's? Any other input would be helpful. Thanks

1. If you are joining two 18" spindles to make a 36" spindle is will work if it is ornamental. I would probably put a dowel between the sections. Trying to glue end-grain isn't going to be very strong. But I would not trust joining two sections for chair legs.

2. If you're doing things 12 - 14 inches in diameter, and not pre-balanced, I would want to be able to drop the speed down to perhaps roughly 300 rpms until it was closer to being balanced. Also, sanding above 350 or 400 will get the sandpaper hot. If you are turning small spindles (<4") you could probably get by with double or triple that.

Just my opinion on the speeds. Someone may say that they would be comfortable running 50 or 100 rpms higher or need to run a bit lower.

[Reed Gray]

For making a tall side or reading lamp, you could use a 'jointed' spindle. Very little stress on one of them. I would not do it for table or chair legs, unless they were really thick, and then I would only use at least 3 inch thick lumber. You would need to turn a tenon about 1 3/4 inch thick, about 2 inches long and drill a hole in the other piece for the fit. Too much trouble as far as I am concerned....

robo hippy

[Sam Beagle]

I’ve found that Facebook market place is the best. Broaden your area though. I just got a oneway lathe last week for 550 bucks w 18 gouges and chucks and tooling. Thing is like new. It’s a small one (1018). But great value.
Also got 2 Delta midis for 50 each. Of course I gotta drive to philly to get them though. But they were well worth it

[Bill Jobe]

Don't forget to factor in the cost of DC if you are just starting out.

[Rodney Walker]

36" is in the range of canes too. It's possible to join the pieces after they've been turned separately. I did it once. I used a piece of all thread on the inside and a copper collar on the outside to reinforce the joint. There are also screw together kits you can buy. I haven't tried those yet.
A lot depends on the accuracy of the lathe (and the turner) for good results.
If you're making canes on a regular basis I'd recommend getting a lathe that is at least 36" between centers.
Some will argue differently but I don't believe any spindle with a joint in it will be as strong as a solid one-piece spindle.
Rodney

[Clint Bach]

I just don't get those short bed lathes. The tailstock is almost guaranteed to be in the way. They don't really save much space. I don't want to take the tailstock off and put it back on. I consider that a total waste of time. And of course there is the dreaded poke your elbow with the live center. If I need a two piece spindle I would much rather put it together before turning it.

i think a short bed lathe with an extension costs more than a lathe with a long bed all things being equal. A sliding headstock can make a short bed lathe out of a long bed lathe. And where are you going to put your optional tool tray that usually lives on the lathe bed?

Its probably just me... And a sore elbow.

Clint

[John K Jordan]

I wouldn't want a short bed lathe either. I've never hit my elbow even with the tailstock close, but I want the length. I use a PM3520 with an 18" bed extension. Still, it was barely long enough to make a new handle for my favorite shuffle hoe:

404572

Even with short work the extra length is so helpful. I use several trays that slide on the lathe bed - I make them for each lathe. I can slide the tailstock down giving me room to put the trays nearer. Here's the first one I made years ago, for a Jet 1642. A little indoor/outdoor carpet makes a nice surface.

404573

JKJ



I just don't get those short bed lathes. The tailstock is almost guaranteed to be in the way. They don't really save much space. I don't want to take the tailstock off and put it back on. I consider that a total waste of time. And of course there is the dreaded poke your elbow with the live center. If I need a two piece spindle I would much rather put it together before turning it.

i think a short bed lathe with an extension costs more than a lathe with a long bed all things being equal. A sliding headstock can make a short bed lathe out of a long bed lathe. And where are you going to put your optional tool tray that usually lives on the lathe bed?

Its probably just me... And a sore elbow.

Clint

[Bill Jobe]

Great idea, JKJ.

I agree with others on the bed. It's so nice to be able to position myself. Just a simple lever to unlock the tailstock or head (G0766).
Basically it seems to me a bed extension is like paying extra for a luxury you would already have on a full length bed.
I had a lathe for a short while with a bed extension. Didn't really seem to take up that much less room.

It's too bad the tariffs hit woodworkers. I bought my G0766 prior to the tariffs and paid under $1700.
Not trying to sway you that way, just can't help but feel bad for those buying a Chinese built lathe.

[Justin Rapp]

I would also looked used. Many good makes out there.



Where do I go to find used. I am also thinking about a lathe and would buy a good used one. I scrub craigs list often and find junk most of the time.

[tom lucas]

expand your search range on CL. You may have to drive a few extra miles. Also, try facebook market place. Most forums have a classifieds section. Look there and post a WTB on each for a lathe. If you aren't in a populous area, it may be slim pickens. Ask at your local clubs too and not just turning clubs. Also inquire at WW clubs.

[Justin Rapp]

expand your search range on CL. You may have to drive a few extra miles. Also, try facebook market place. Most forums have a classifieds section. Look there and post a WTB on each for a lathe. If you aren't in a populous area, it may be slim pickens. Ask at your local clubs too and not just turning clubs. Also inquire at WW clubs.

I am in New Jersey, 1/2 way between Philly and New York and search CL with a decent radius. What I find with CL and FB Marketplace is either the owner wants pretty much what it cost for a new one or it's a rust bucket. Not sure about others, but I tend to sell off an old tool for a good value to the new owner as it's is 'used' even if it's like new with some sawdust on it. I will keep looking.

The WW clubs is a great idea - I am about to join a local one if I can open my schedule for the meetings....

[tom lucas]

Don't be afraid to make an offer that you think is fair, even if it is significantly less than what they are asking. A lot of people do try to get too much for their used machine. Often because they overpaid to start with. My rule of thumb is 50% of new cost unless it's a cherry that is practically new with low usage. In that case, no more than 70% of new. Even at that, I won't drive far to save only 30% when I can get new delivered to my door with warranty. I also try to provide the seller with a link to the new cost and explain why my offer is what it is. Some are reasonable. Others get mad. But who cares, it's a business transaction.

I see all kinds of good buys in your general area (100 mile circle). I would expect you could find something that fits your needs.

[tom lucas]

This looks like a good deal.
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/tls/d/woodbury-heights-lathe/6832606009.html

[Justin Rapp]

This looks like a good deal.
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/tls/d/woodbury-heights-lathe/6832606009.html


haha ya - great deal for a monster lathe. I am going for mini or midi size so my 12 and 14 year olds to make some bowls and such. :)

[tom lucas]

If I had seen this 3 weeks ago it would be in my shop already. It's way under priced. I must've missed the part where you said you only wanted a mini/midi. Big lathes turn small things just as well. You want a good lathe, this is it at a great price. And you'll never need another. Otherwise, plenty of small lathes new from $300 to $600 of many brands. Those type used for cheap are more rare.... an occasional HF or a Penn State pen lathe. Perhaps you are best to buy a small new one. There is nothing wrong with them. They work for small projects.

[Justin Rapp]

If I had seen this 3 weeks ago it would be in my shop already. It's way under priced. I must've missed the part where you said you only wanted a mini/midi. Big lathes turn small things just as well. You want a good lathe, this is it at a great price. And you'll never need another. Otherwise, plenty of small lathes new from $300 to $600 of many brands. Those type used for cheap are more rare.... an occasional HF or a Penn State pen lathe. Perhaps you are best to buy a small new one. There is nothing wrong with them. They work for small projects.

I saw a Rikon 70-100 at a woodworking show this past weekend but price was a few bucks short of the online price and wanted more time to research so I didn't pull the trigger on it. Plus I am not a fan of Rikon. For the money, a few hundred more and I have a JET 1221VS or Laguna Revo 12|16 However, grabbing one used for 400-500 instead of 800 would be great.