Options for finishing Bubinga

[jeremy romoser]

Other than staining a couple yellow-pine projects I built, I have no experience finishing wood.

What are the products and processes y'all use to finish Bubinga?

Thanks in advance to all who respond.

[glenn bradley]

I have used clear shellac on small pieces and an oil varnish blend on larger pieces. Either will let the beauty of the bubinga show through with the oil adding a bit of homogenizing of the color bands; not too a negative level but, oil darkens things more than shellac.

[Jon Nuckles]

When prepping for your finish, be careful with planing; bubinga tends to reverse grain and tear out. Shellac brings out the figure well and looks best if applied in a very thin coat. I have used a padding lacquer, which was just shellac with a variety of solvents formulated to evaporate at a rate conducive to a rubbed on application. It is similar to a french polish, but much more forgiving. It still requires a bit of a learning curve and takes some time to apply, at least on a larger project. It yields a great finish, though, and bubinga is worth the effort.

[Mel Fulks]

Many years ago I made a Bubinga hone box. Took the sanding to high overly fine then oiled ? Waxed? Can't remember.
For small items it's a great luxury to feel the silkyness of the wood.

[Jamie Buxton]

The best finish for you might depend on what you’re building. Me, I build furniture. I use varnish on bubinga. It looks good on dark woods like bubinga, and it is tough. I sand to 320, apply one or two coats with a brush, de-nib with 600 grit, and then apply several more coats wipe-on.

[John K Jordan]

I use Bubinga for wood turnings. I've finished with shellac, "danish" oil, and Tru-Oil, depending on the look and durability I wanted.

JKJ

[jeremy romoser]

Thank you all for your replies. It is much appreciated!!

This particular "project" if it can be called that is literally just a planed 4/4 board that I will rip to about 5" and cut about 5' long that I will attach some kind of block onto from which I can hang a rare bit and bridal set that is now an heirloom owned by a friend of mine. He wants to display it on the wall.

Looks like Shellac, oil, or varnish are the preferred methods. I think I'll buy an extra board and apply each to a section and let my friend decide which look he wants.

Thanks again for the quick replies.

[Jamie Buxton]

Considering the use, I'd think about using mesquite. It is also very pretty, and it is a Texas native.

[Jeff Booth]

Well ... I would like to comment. I have never worked with bubinga. Made a tabletop out of it. Sanded it to 180 grit, applied a coat of Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop Urethane .... I also applied a coat at the same time to a white oak tabletop .... let it sit for 30 hours, sanded lightly with 320 and a little bit of paint thinner which is my standard method that I have used with this finish on lots of other tables here in the house over the last several years since the phenolic version died back in 2012ish timeframe. The white oak is ready for another coat of urethane and the bubinga has gunky cheese peeling off of it, used to be the finish ... .... what happened? Does the bubinga have some internal sap or oil that changes the urethane chemically?

[Jim Becker]

Good finishing advise already. I'll add that you should be sure to wear PPE while working with bubinga, especially while sanding it. Many folks are sensitive to it...I can't get near it since doing just ONE project (a turned platter) years ago. That pains me because it's such beautiful wood, too. So take care now so you reduce the chance of being or becoming sensitive to it.

[Jeff Booth]

Thanks for the advice on the dust Jim, my P100 mask usually lives in my truck nowadays so I can buy groceries - but I will go get it for the rework.

As to the finish, are recommending a coat or two of dewaxed shellac first? That seems like an easy idea to try. Fortunately this is a 500 square inch table instead of a 5000 square inch table, rework will cost me less than an hour ;-)

[Jim Becker]

Always test it on some scrap or worse case, on the back side of the tabletop before you commit to a finish... ;)

[Scott Winners]

I did some work on a small skiff that had bubinga quarter knees at the stern and a small bubinga foredeck. It had been finished with west system epoxy. The owner/builder said it was a pain to get smooth and flat because the grain was irregular, and he has used the #205 clear hardener so as not to yellow the wood below. The boat had been wet many times, it was the boulder it had met under water that brought it to my shop. The bubinga looked great.

[bill epstein]

Glad to pass along what was recommended to me here for my latest in Bubinga, Tried and true Varnish oil. Do follow the instructions about pre-burnishing, thin application, and thoroughly wiping down after 30 to 45 minutes.

3 coats on this pre-amp; looks as good as the vintage tubes sound.

434506

[Alan Lightstone]

Good finishing advise already. I'll add that you should be sure to wear PPE while working with bubinga, especially while sanding it. Many folks are sensitive to it...I can't get near it since doing just ONE project (a turned platter) years ago. That pains me because it's such beautiful wood, too. So take care now so you reduce the chance of being or becoming sensitive to it.

Your body's allergic response occurs as a result of the first exposure to a pathogen (in your case, Bubinga), which triggers a primary response. Subsequent exposures result in a secondary response that is faster and stronger as a result of the body’s memory of the first exposure. Sadly, avoiding it is your best approach, Jim, as you have done.

So, definitely use that P100 mask when working with it, Jeremy.

[Jim Becker]

A good part of my reaction was on my skin, too, Alan.