Bench chisels?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

The current chisels I am using I bought over 30 years ago in a hardware store in a Chicago suburb. I'm in the market for a new set of bench chisels. I can't justify a really expensive set but would like to have some reasonable quality chisels. I'm not a hand tool expert so I'd like some opinions on a reasonable quality set of chisels that won't break the bank.

Thanks in advance for your opinion!

[Mike Henderson]

A lot of people like the Narex chisels. I had a set and found that they were decent steel but the handles were too big. If you go with inexpensive chisels, the steel will likely be about the same as your hardware store chisels.

Mike

[Ray Newman]

Many years ago, I purchased a set of German chisels. Good steel and hold an edge well.

But what I noticed over the years, is that I seem to utilize 2 or 3 chisels much more than others and one or two I have never used. If I was in the market for a "set" of chisels, I would give some thought as to which sizes I utilized the most and buy really good chisels in those sizes.

[Mike Henderson]

Many years ago, I purchased a set of German chisels. Good steel and hold an edge well.

But what I noticed over the years, is that I seem to utilize 2 or 3 chisels much more than others and one or two I have never used. If I was in the market for a "set" of chisels, I would give some thought as to which sizes I utilized the most and buy really good chisels in those sizes.

I would second Ray's comment. The LV PM-V11 chisels are about as good as you can find anywhere. Just buy one or two in the sizes you use most.

Mike

[Phil Mueller]

Ken, not sure what reasonably priced is for you, but if you’re looking in the $30-$35/chisel range (vs. $70+), consider either Ashley Isles or Two Cherries. I have the AI butt chisels and the Two Cherries bench chisels. They are my general go to and work well for me. The Two Cherries are only available in mm, if that matters to you.

When I was looking for a new set, I just bought a different size from of a few makers. Turns out, I never went back and bought a full set from one maker.

[Bob Leistner]

Of I were to lose my mind and buy a new set of chisels, I would ask about a discount for buying without handles. I have yet to hold a new chisel that I enjoyed in my hand. I have replaced the handles on most all my regular users with the exception of mortise chisels.

[David Eisenhauer]

I also agree with the "buy one or two good ones rather than a set of lesser quality ones" philosophy. For me, they would be in the 1/4" and 1/2" sizes. I also recommend the Ashley Isles chisels as being good chisels at a lower-than-some other premium brand-cost. The handles fit MY hands very well, they sharpen up easily (O1 steel?) and the edges last a reasonable amount of time in my experience. No, I have never made a comparative-timed use test of the AI against other chisel brands, but working with hard hardwoods, I don't find that I have to re sharpen any sooner than I believe is typical for chisel use in hand tool woodworking joinery work.

[Tony Wilkins]

I also agree with the "buy one or two good ones rather than a set of lesser quality ones" philosophy. For me, they would be in the 1/4" and 1/2" sizes. I also recommend the Ashley Isles chisels as being good chisels at a lower-than-some other premium brand-cost. The handles fit MY hands very well, they sharpen up easily (O1 steel?) and the edges last a reasonable amount of time in my experience. No, I have never made a comparative-timed use test of the AI against other chisel brands, but working with hard hardwoods, I don't find that I have to re sharpen any sooner than I believe is typical for chisel use in hand tool woodworking joinery work.

Put me in the buy one or two of the sizes you use most camp. Chisels seem to be a very personal thing as well. Just about all of the good chisels available today will have good steel but for me at least the balance and feel of the handle is of more importance.*. You might even try different brands to see which you prefer as you get more.**

*for me personally, though I like the LV PM-V11 steel is about the best, the feel of the LN Stanley copies just feel so much better.
** if you decide you need more.

[Jim Koepke]

The current chisels I am using I bought over 30 years ago in a hardware store in a Chicago suburb. I'm in the market for a new set of bench chisels. I can't justify a really expensive set but would like to have some reasonable quality chisels. I'm not a hand tool expert so I'd like some opinions on a reasonable quality set of chisels that won't break the bank.

Thanks in advance for your opinion!

Have your current chisels become too short over the last 30 years or is this an upgrade?

What will the main use(s) be for these chisels?

If there is a lot of paring, especially dovetails, you would want a chisel with much lower side profile than if you were mostly going to be cutting dados and mortises.

As others have mentioned the feel of the grip is important. A socket chisel's ease of changing handles is my main reason for preferring them.

Another consideration may be the material with which you work. If you work with plywood and want chisels to match the nominal sizes you may want to find metric sized chisels. If you work wood from lumber yards it doesn't matter as much unless you need to match with other shop tools or equipment.

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Ken, I like my Ashley Iles. They are very well made. The brass ferrules will slip when the humidity changes, but a tap with a nail set will put enough of a divot in them to hold them firmly.

They only make them in O1, so if you want something exotic you will need to look at something else. But at about half the price of the LN/LV lines I think they are the best value out there.

[chris carter]

I have the Narex imperial ones that Lee Valley sells. I have zero issues with them and enjoy using them. The downside is that I personally think they are a little on the ugly side if that matters. Many people complain about the size of the handles, but I like the handles. Perhaps it's because I have big hands, but I find them comfortable for a large variety of tasks.

[Robert Engel]

Several years ago, FWW did a very good review of the major brands of chisels. One of the things I learned about was something called "side bevel height."

This is the thickness of the side wall that tapers to the edge. Important in fine joinery like dovetails. Generally speaking, aside from "firmer" chisels, the cheaper brands with have rather high SBH's.

IIRC the best brands in this regard were Lie Nielsen & Ashley Iles. I think the Narex were rated "best value".

Be aware on Narex, there are (or were) two lines. The "premium" line has a lower SBH than the regular Narex. When I bought mine, they way you could tell is the regular line has hooped handles, the premium line has plane round top wood handles.

Having used them for a few years, my only knock on them is edge retention, which really isn't that big a deal. They sharpen up fast. But if you're working on a hard wood, keep the honing stone handy :-)

Be prepared to spend some time flattening the backs.

Since then I purchased a Stanley 750 chisel, which I was disappointed. The edge retention worse then Narex, and the handles not suited to my XL hands and the chisel way to light for my taste.

For general chiselling or heavy work where I'm needing a firmer chisel, the Irwin Marples blue handled chisels have served me well.

[Jeff Heath]

I didn't see it mentioned above, so I'll ask.......

Are you only considering new chisels? Vintage chisels can often be had a great bargain at swap meets and flea markets. Unless you're in a big hurry, you can acquire a pretty decent starter set for under $50. For instance, every year at the Arnfest gathering, there's at least 1 or 2 guys at the swap meet selling vintage chisels for $5 apiece.

I have amassed all the chisels I need this way, and the quality of steel on tools like Greenlee, old Stanley 750's (not the new box store stuff), Witherby, Swan, Buck, Union, J. Addis, etc...... is excellent.

Also, old Marples, and anything you can find with Sheffield steel is also going to typically be very good, unless the temper was ruined. At $5 to $10 apiece, you can easily take the gamble. I've only run into 1 chisel with soft steel, and I've probably restored at least 50 chisels (much more....being conservative) in my day. E.A. Berg from Sweden is also an excellent quality tool, although you will probably pay a premium to get them. Worth the money, in my opinion.

If these vintage chisels were being made today, they would compete, price wise, in the category of new Lie Nielsen, Blue Spruce, and other top quality makers.

You'll have to learn how to flatten, grind, and sharpen, but you should know how to do that anyway. For some, making new handles is a way to personalize a nice set of chisels. I have very large hands, and like a beefier handle than the ones put on new chisels today.

Just a thought to consider.

It was mentioned up stream, but I have a 30 year old small set of 5 Two Cherries chisels. Excellent steel, and very hard and durable. A little more difficult to sharpen, because of their hardness, but no big deal. The only issue I have with them is that they are metric. I have, since buying them new, reground them into paring chisels at 20° bevel.

[Prashun Patel]

Ken-
I love my Lie Nielsen chisels.

They are slightly less priced than other 'Lexus league' chisels.

Not everyone likes socket style chisels, though. You do have to deal with seating them, and some with bigger hands may find them a little on the delicate side. I like them precisely for this reason.

I would not buy a set. Buy 1 or 2 in the sizes you might use most.

I have a couple LN's and a couple Veritas PMV11s. I prefer the LN's. I also have the Narex's. Fine, but unless you need a whole set, I advise buying individually.

[Jim Foster]

I have two suggestions (well three) As another post suggested, look at only getting the ones you need instead of a set

If your budget is "budget minded," You can find a lot of circa 1990 Marples chisel sets out there that have minimal usage. These are the old blue handle or brown boxwood handled sets of 4 or 5 chisels. I have these and they work fine. I'm not fond of the weight at the handle side, but I suspect many users are fine with the handles.

What I consider a good handled chisel for me are the new Stanley Sweetheart chisels. They are similar to Lie Nielsen, but lighter and less steel with the same basic handle. I like the light weight of these better than the Lie Nielsen, but acknowledge the Lie is obviously a better chisel in absolute quality. I have a few of all the ones mentioned, so I speak from "My" hands on perspective.

Also, I think the challenges I have with the heavier handled chisels are twofold, they are a little harder to hold steady when sharpening when top heavy and take a little more precision effort to align when using.

[Rob Luter]

I have a set of the Blue Handle Irwin/Marples from when they were still made in Sheffield. The backs weren't very flat and the side bevels aren't very sharp. They're a bit clunky due to the heavy handles but they hold an edge and take a beating without complaining much. They were what I could afford at the time. I use them for rougher work.

I have a set of LN Socket Chisels too. They were much more expensive. They were worth it.

[David Bassett]

Several unrelated on topic thoughts:

First, OP, you don't really say what's wrong with your current chisels. Though cheap, they're old enough the steel might not be too bad and maybe all you need is to up your sharpening game and refurb them a little.

Next, if you buy, let me second the buy only one or two better chisels in the sizes you use most advice.

Also, I'll agree with the Ashley Iles chisels as very nice at less than premium prices. They seem more traditional in their shape and balance too.

But I'll also mention Blue Spruce. While premium priced, I've never seen an owner complain about the quality and they are gorgeous. So if you want to splurge....

Lastly, I want to mention both Pfeil chisels and Windriver socket chisels as possibilities. They have both received praise for good steel and ergonomics in reviews here and also fall in the medium price band (like Ashley Iles.) If you have a nearby Woodcraft store you should be able to handle them to judge the weight & balance for your taste before committing.

[Brian Eaton]

I have a few Woodriver chisels that I purchased at a time of “need it now” that I decided were worth taking a chance on after doing some research. I’m sure they still aren’t in the same league as Lee Valley, Lie Nielsen, etc. but they were in my price range.

My only point of comparison is to new Irwin Marples blue handled chisels and they are miles better than those. They feel better in the hand, take a sharper edge, and hold that edge longer. I also like the side profile of them much more than the Irwin Marples chisels. I don’t “need” any other sized chisels at the moment but it is still in the back of my mind to purchase one or two more to replace the Irwin chisels at some point. From a budget concious standpoint they check all of my boxes. I know it may be nice to have more premium chisels but I’m still building out my shop and do have to budget my money carefully to purchase new tools as I need them. Just my two cents!

[Prashun Patel]

Ken:

'https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?271915-NIB-Veritas-PMV11-Chisels

[Ken Fitzgerald]

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?271915-NIB-Veritas-PMV11-Chisel

[JimA Thornton]

I bought a 3/8" Narex Premium chisel from LV to add to my set of vintage Marples Bluechip chisels. The chisel seems nice with a thin side bevel, but as someone said, the handle is bulky and pretty ugly. I'm toying with the idea of taking the upper hoop off and reshaping the handle to a nice dome shape at the end.

[Frederick Skelly]

Ken, not sure what reasonably priced is for you, but if you’re looking in the $30-$35/chisel range (vs. $70+), consider either Ashley Isles or Two Cherries. I have the AI butt chisels and the Two Cherries bench chisels. They are my general go to and work well for me. The Two Cherries are only available in mm, if that matters to you.

When I was looking for a new set, I just bought a different size from of a few makers. Turns out, I never went back and bought a full set from one maker.

Ken, I second the vote for Ashley Iles, and to buy the 2 or 3 you'll use the most. They feel good in hand and cut well.

But be aware that depending on what you already own, you may or may not see a dramatic difference in performance. Here's what I found in my evaluation (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?264937-Cheap-vs-Premium-Chisels-First-impressions&highlight=Chisels)......

[William Fretwell]

I have two suggestions (well three) As another post suggested, look at only getting the ones you need instead of a set

If your budget is "budget minded," You can find a lot of circa 1990 Marples chisel sets out there that have minimal usage. These are the old blue handle or brown boxwood handled sets of 4 or 5 chisels.

I had the circa 1990 Marples blue handle set, soft steel, terrible; you could watch the edge bend. The Narex are good solid chisels, outstanding value, buy your top usage sizes in premium brands as suggested.

[Derek Cohen]

I have written reviews on chisel which compared chisels and their steels. I own a few different sets. Bought and sold a few others out of curiosity. In the end it is evident that it is not possible to make blanket recommendations since we may have different personal preferences, and we also may use the chisels in a way that either enhances their edge retention, or not.

For edge retention, Koyamaichi (and Japanese chisels generall) and Veritas PM-V11 come out on top.

For lightness and balance, Blue Spruce are followed by my much modified vintage Stanley 750s (ground lands and shopmade handles). I like the Veritas handles as well, but their best balance lies in up to 1/2".

I have Marples with the boxwood handles. I love their lightness and control, but the edge is lost quite quickly.

My preference when using a bench chisel is to use a light mallet or gennou (around 7oz) to tap the handles. I find that this offers much more control than pushing short strokes, which is especially so with dovetails. Taking very fine shavings when chopping, say about 1mm apart, will save the edge. Taking wide chunks about 1/8" apart will quickly destroy the edge. This is why is can be difficult to quantify edge holding. Experience plays a part here, and a beginner cannot expect the same edge as a long-time user.

I also find there is more control when pushing a long chisel, which may be the case with either a Western paring chisel (with a long blade) or an Eastern paring chisel (with a long handle). In general terms, Western bench chisels are all rounders (pushing and hitting), while Eastern bench chisels are designed to be used with a gennou. Consider these factors when choosing a bench chisel.

Koyamaichi (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KoyamaichiChisels.html) (the three on the left are 1980, and the three on the right are 2010) ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KoyamaichiChisels_html_m503d1791.jpg

Veritas O1 (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview.html) and LN ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview_html_m658973e6.jpg

3/4" Koyamaichi, Blue Spruce, and Veritas ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview_html_240f224e.jpg

My modified Stanley 750s ...

https://i.postimg.cc/ydMSsXqp/Chiselset2.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[bridger berdel]

I'm firmly in the vintage chisel camp. The older the better.

One advantage to old chisels I don't see mentioned is the variability. Whether it's from wear or from pre-CNC manufacturing standards (blacksmith made!) The widths are nominal. At the price of (frequently) under a dollar for a somewhat rusty, handle-less chisel i can take it home and see if it is a bit biggher or smaller than the next closest size in the drawer. After some 30-odd years of this i have probably 50-odd bench chisels from about 1/16" wide to 3" wide with very few duplicates.





I didn't see it mentioned above, so I'll ask.......

Are you only considering new chisels? Vintage chisels can often be had a great bargain at swap meets and flea markets. Unless you're in a big hurry, you can acquire a pretty decent starter set for under $50. For instance, every year at the Arnfest gathering, there's at least 1 or 2 guys at the swap meet selling vintage chisels for $5 apiece.

I have amassed all the chisels I need this way, and the quality of steel on tools like Greenlee, old Stanley 750's (not the new box store stuff), Witherby, Swan, Buck, Union, J. Addis, etc...... is excellent.

Also, old Marples, and anything you can find with Sheffield steel is also going to typically be very good, unless the temper was ruined. At $5 to $10 apiece, you can easily take the gamble. I've only run into 1 chisel with soft steel, and I've probably restored at least 50 chisels (much more....being conservative) in my day. E.A. Berg from Sweden is also an excellent quality tool, although you will probably pay a premium to get them. Worth the money, in my opinion.

If these vintage chisels were being made today, they would compete, price wise, in the category of new Lie Nielsen, Blue Spruce, and other top quality makers.

You'll have to learn how to flatten, grind, and sharpen, but you should know how to do that anyway. For some, making new handles is a way to personalize a nice set of chisels. I have very large hands, and like a beefier handle than the ones put on new chisels today.

Just a thought to consider.

It was mentioned up stream, but I have a 30 year old small set of 5 Two Cherries chisels. Excellent steel, and very hard and durable. A little more difficult to sharpen, because of their hardness, but no big deal. The only issue I have with them is that they are metric. I have, since buying them new, reground them into paring chisels at 20° bevel.

[Charles Guest]

The current chisels I am using I bought over 30 years ago in a hardware store in a Chicago suburb. I'm in the market for a new set of bench chisels. I can't justify a really expensive set but would like to have some reasonable quality chisels. I'm not a hand tool expert so I'd like some opinions on a reasonable quality set of chisels that won't break the bank.

Thanks in advance for your opinion!

I think Sorby still make a good chisel though people complain about them being a little on the soft side. I don't think they are. They sharpen just fine on natural oilstones which is a plus for me. Hartville Tool carries the line - as deep an offering of Sorby as you'll find in the U.S. I am not associated with Hartville in any way other than as a customer. If I'm going in for a little ticklish paring, I'm not particularly counting on edge longevity measured in days, the edge is going to be constantly spruced up as I go along. As such, I couldn't even estimate how long an edge 'lasts.' Is there really even a definition for such a thing? My definition surely would be different that yours, and yours different from the next guy's, and on down the line.

I come from an era where a brand could basically be trusted. It might not be the absolute best of the best, but certainly good enough to be beyond blaming the tool for poor workmanship. One could drive themselves almost to the point of madness comparing all the vintage brands against each other, then vintage brands against current boutique offerings, and then current affordable but capable offerings against all the previous. A fool's errand. A professional wouldn't do it, or do it only to the extent that the fellow at the next bench over uses a different make of chisel and it could be checked out that way. A professional tradesman spending hard-earned money to buy several, in order to settle on a few? I've never seen that in an actual professional setting, and would hope even serious amateurs would avoid it. Perhaps a young tradesman with no mouths to feed or mortgage to pay might do this, briefly, but not grown men with real responsibilities.

[Warren Mickley]

A dozen years ago a fellow asked what kind of plane to buy. I made a case for what I thought was best, but he thought some amateur was more persuasive and bought his recommendation. Now that persuasive amateur uses the kind of plane I recommended.

I have read the posts in this thread. Some tout chisels I would find unbearable; some denigrate chisels that I have used for professional work. A few have given good advice.

I recommend buying several chisels of all different makes. That way you will get some perspective for yourself. A lot depends on your technique and skill level, both in sharpening and use, which is one reason opinions diverge.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

You can be a little Delphic at times Warren. A bit hard to tell where the good advice is and where the rest is.

Skill level is not the only difference between the professional and the amateurs. Some amateurs have more money than time and other have more time than money. All depends on where you are in life.

There are at least a dozen options out there: if you were picking three or four to try out, which would you recommend and why? Everybody with any sense respects your opinion, and I am sure would like to hear your thoughts.

[Prashun Patel]

"I have read the posts in this thread. Some tout chisels I would find unbearable; some denigrate chisels that I have used for professional work. A few have given good advice"

Warren, let's hear which you love and hate. While I take your second point that it depends on skill and technique, but I do respect your perspective for calibrating my own.

[Brian Holcombe]

Where is the current set letting you down?

[Andrew Hughes]

Where is the current set letting you down?

Ken is in Lewiston Idaho. :)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I believe the metal in my current chisels is too soft. I tire having to sharpen them so often.

[Jessica de Boer]

If you want Western chisels for a good price and steel that's actually not all that bad for a Western chisels I would recommend these: https://www.fine-tools.com/mhg.html

[Brian Holcombe]

I believe the metal in my current chisels is too soft. I tire having to sharpen them so often.

I can understand that, I have chisels on the other end of the scale. 19th century laminated English maker chisels are common enough and well made. As far as contemporary makers go, I lean strongly toward Japanese.

I’ve user plenty of contemporary western chisels but don’t prefer them, they often combine abrasion resistant steel with billet construction to make a chisel that requires considerable tempering to retain flexibility while also requiring synthetic abrasives and grinders to sharpen them.

Laminated construction allows the best of both worlds, soft enough to handle shock but hard at the edge and able to be sharpened on natural abrasives.

[lowell holmes]

I have a set of Lie Nielsens and also some of these.

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=wood+chisels

[Tony Wilkins]

If you want Western chisels for a good price and steel that's actually not all that bad for a Western chisels I would recommend these: https://www.fine-tools.com/mhg.html

Just to point out that those are metric and some want to run an imperial only shop. If it’s not an issue for the op then carry on.

[Warren Mickley]

"I have read the posts in this thread. Some tout chisels I would find unbearable; some denigrate chisels that I have used for professional work. A few have given good advice"

Warren, let's hear which you love and hate. While I take your second point that it depends on skill and technique, but I do respect your perspective for calibrating my own.


I inherited my first 19th Century English chisel in 1975, but it is only in the last ten years that I have gone to all 19th c English. They sharpen very easily, have a very fine edge, and last a long time with good sharpness. I don't like stainless steel or semi stainless.

[Jessica de Boer]

Imperial makes no sense so it's better to switch :P

[Tony Wilkins]

Imperial makes no sense so it's better to switch :P
I’m American so you’ll have to rip my feet out of my cold dead hands lol

[Jim Koepke]

Just to point out that those are metric and some want to run an imperial only shop. If it’s not an issue for the op then carry on.

+1 on the metric issue.

It would have been less of an issue for workers still using wood cut to imperial sizes if the sets had 9 & 18mm sizes instead of 10 & 20mm. Though this may be more important for folks working with softwoods than hardwoods.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Imperial makes no sense so it's better to switch :P

If you are willing to pay the cost of changing every chisel, drill bit, plane blade and ruler in my shop over to metric, then it would make sense to switch. Until then my tools will remain as the are an eclectic mix of three different systems of measurement designations.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

I believe the metal in my current chisels is too soft. I tire having to sharpen them so often.


In that case, my recommendation would by the Veritas Chisels made with PM-v11. My only tool with a PM-v11 blade is a spokeshave. It is amazing at how much longer it goes between sharpening than any of my other spokeshave blades. It also appears to be more chip resistant than my main A1 blade. The chipping on the A1 maybe due more to its use almost exclusively for shooting. It is also honed to 25º without a secondary bevel.

If you only need a few sizes, then PM-v11 may be the way to go. If you know you will eventually want a full set, may as well step up and get while the getting is good.

jtk

[Jessica de Boer]

I’m American so you’ll have to rip my feet out of my cold dead hands lol

Why would someone chop off you feet and put them in your hands when your dead? Am I not aware of a strange cultural custom in the US? :D

[Jim Koepke]

Why would someone chop off you feet and put them in your hands when your dead? Am I not aware of a strange cultural custom in the US? :D

Maybe he was alluding to feet, as in measurement, in a twist on a phrase often heard from firearm advocates.

Probably not a bumper sticker one sees often outside the states.

jtk

[Jason Martin Winnipeg]

Why would someone chop off you feet and put them in your hands when your dead? Am I not aware of a strange cultural custom in the US? :D

Haha, that was my first thought as well!

[Jessica de Boer]

Maybe he was alluding to feet, as in measurement, in a twist on a phrase often heard from firearm advocates.

Probably not a bumper sticker one sees often outside the states.

jtk

Uh, yeah, I got that ;)

[Tony Wilkins]

Haha, that was my first thought as well!

Ding, ding, ding

[William Fretwell]

Us Brit’s have not a Whits Worth’s of Imperial humour metric’d out by Uropeans.

[Brian Holcombe]

Imperial makes no sense so it's better to switch :P

Good luck doing that in the US. If you want to cut the selection of available parts down to about 1/3 or less. Push-to-connect fittings as example all of the ones I have access to convert metric hose to imperial pipe thread. Same with metric conduit.

I have no issue with imperial, it's actually very easy to use. Anytime I want it to function like metric I just use decimal inches.

[James Pallas]

Good luck doing that in the US. If you want to cut the selection of available parts down to about 1/3 or less. Push-to-connect fittings as example all of the ones I have access to convert metric hose to imperial pipe thread. Same with metric conduit.

I have no issue with imperial, it's actually very easy to use. Anytime I want it to function like metric I just use decimal inches.
i have to agree with Brian here. I think the fractions are what hangs people up. I do probably 90% of all calculations without a paper or pencil or a calculator. I would agree that if you don't have reason to do calculations often and for a reason other than school it could be tougher.
Jim

[Jason Martin Winnipeg]

I think this is the first time an Imperial vs Metric discussion has popped up!

[Tony Wilkins]

I think this is the first time an Imperial vs Metric discussion has popped up!

Really? Or did you forget to put on the sarcasm font? I don’t remember one but I would be surprised if it doesn’t come up. I was probably thinking of it because I saw a history video on YouTube recently on why America hasn’t. Really interesting. I can link it if I can and there is any interest.

[James Pallas]

To get back to Ken's question. I have many chisels, more than fifty. None of which are premium. They all work. I had a few bad ones. They are gone. I bought one of the new 750s a couple of years ago because I needed a 5/8. I liked how it felt in hand. It sharpened ok and seemed to last ok too. I liked the feel of it so much I bought a set. I than bought enough to fill out another few ti fill out a set along with 2 old 720s I had. I like chisels at 25* so I have one set at 25* and one set at 20*. I've been working that way for a year now. I like the feel and sharpening hasn't been troublesome. I bought two LNs a few years ago. A2 doesn't work for me at 25*, chips for me. Gave them to a friend. I hope he's still a friend:). Tried a couple of medium price Japanese too. They work ok just don't like the feel.
Jim

[Jason Martin Winnipeg]

Really? Or did you forget to put on the sarcasm font? I don’t remember one but I would be surprised if it doesn’t come up. I was probably thinking of it because I saw a history video on YouTube recently on why America hasn’t. Really interesting. I can link it if I can and there is any interest.

Haha, I didn't think it needed it!

[ken hatch]

The real question is how to work with just a few chisels. In my shop I pick the chisel that is best suited for the job. Size can be important but also how the chisel is handled, what wood is used for the handle, is it long or short, firmer, beveled, pattern makers, sash mortise, pig sticker and so on. all have a job that they do better than other chisels. With the exception of the mortise chisels all could be considered bench chisels. Do you need all those different chisels, of course not but it sure makes life easier.

ken



ken

[steven c newman]

Hmmm...when Uncle Arthur (itis) makes things so I can't grip the handle on an Estwing hammer, tight enough to use....a large chisel handle tends to help with the grip....

Have several sets I use, and am very happy with. Some are older than I am. Others? Not so old. I grab the chisel that fits the job.

I'll leave it at that....:rolleyes:

[James Pallas]

The real question is how to work with just a few chisels. In my shop I pick the chisel that is best suited for the job. Size can be important but also how the chisel is handled, what wood is used for the handle, is it long or short, firmer, beveled, pattern makers, sash mortise, pig sticker and so on. all have a job that they do better than other chisels. With the exception of the mortise chisels all could be considered bench chisels. Do you need all those different chisels, of course not but it sure makes life easier.

ken



ken
How very true. I just keep some for sizes for the in between things like 11/16 or 15/16.
Jim

[James Pallas]

Hmmm...when Uncle Arthur (itis) makes things so I can't grip the handle on an Estwing hammer, tight enough to use....a large chisel hammer tends to help with the grip....

Have several sets I use, and am very happy with. Some are older than I am. Others? Not so old. I grab the chisel that fits the job.

I'll leave it at that....:rolleyes:
True Steven. The one that fits the job is the one that is needed.
Jim

[JimA Thornton]

I'm starting to discover why, when looking at workshop photos, there seems to be a wall of chisels of varying sizes and types.
Also, I'm learning that when doing a certain operation where a certain size and style of chisel would work the best..........buy it! If I need it once.......I'm sure to need it again!
That's my amazing revelation for today! Well that and how well my Record spokeshave, that I bought years ago, works when properly fettled.

Jim

[fritz eng]

I have both Footprint and Pfeil sets. The Footprints are no longer made and they are of Sheffield steel from UK. The Footprints are my go-to chisels. The Pfeils made of Swedish steel, are more than adequate for dovetails and general work.

[Edwin Santos]

Ken,

One factor to consider with chisels is how they feel in your particular hands. This is something only you can assess, and only by handling them.
I ordered a set of Veritas PM-V11 chisels and while they are technically superb without question, I just did not like how they felt in my hands. It's hard to put into words.
So I sent them back and bought a set of Ashley Iles (MK II bench chisels and a few American Pattern butt chisels). They feel really comfortable in my hands, especially the shorter butt chisels. As others have said, AI are a good value for a high quality chisel.

In summary I suggest if you cannot handle the chisels before buying them, go with a seller who will cheerfully accept a return and make sure they feel comfortable to you.

[JimA Thornton]

I bought a 3/8" Narex Premium chisel from LV to add to my set of vintage Marples Bluechip chisels. The chisel seems nice with a thin side bevel, but as someone said, the handle is bulky and pretty ugly. I'm toying with the idea of taking the upper hoop off and reshaping the handle to a nice dome shape at the end.

I'm going to answer my own post here. I finally got to use my 3/8" Narex Premium chisel today. I mentioned earlier about thinking about cutting the top hoop off. Well .......I discovered that when doing a paring operation that my little finger wraps around the upper hoop making the chisel quite comfortable. Plus even though the handle seems large, I found it felt good in my smaller hands. I'm also thinking that I was able to get it sharper than my vintage Blue Chips, but need to do a little more research. Oh yeah...........yes they're still really ugly! Maybe this is a case of "form follows function".

Jim

[Andrew Seemann]

If you want Western chisels for a good price and steel that's actually not all that bad for a Western chisels I would recommend these: https://www.fine-tools.com/mhg.html

I always wanted a set of those, but I have a set of Two Cherries (Kirschen) so there really is no reason to get the MHG ones (but I still want them :) )

I almost always work in inches, but I like having a set of metric chisels. It can be nice to have slightly undersized chisels to clean out mortices, rabbets, dados, etc, where the chisel sides don't catch on the wood.

Back on topic, the Two Cherries are nice chisels. Some folks have issues with the polishing, but it has never bothered me; a little extra grinding on the bevel in the beginning righted everything up. The only thing is that they are A2 steel, and they require a slightly higher secondary bevel than people used to O1 or vintage steel (750 style steel) may be used to, like I was when I first got them. I tend to use them in harder woods or with a mallet, where edge retention is important. For softer woods or light paring in harder woods, I tend to favor my set of vintage 750 style chisels from various manufactures.

If I was starting out and needed chisels, I would probably try the new Stanley Sweetheart 750 chisels. I like that size and style chisel, but wouldn't want it with A2 steel like the LN ones are. For an A2 chisel, I prefer a longer handle like the Two Cherries, but that is just me and my preferences.

And if I am being honest with myself, I probably could have just kept using my original set of blue-handled made-in-Sheffield Marples chisels that I have had for 20 years. But once you get the chisel bug, it is hard to stop. I have to remind myself, I really don't need to buy a set of Ashley Iles, Sweetheart, Pfeil, and MHG chisels.

[Jim Koepke]

But once you get the chisel bug, it is hard to stop. I have to remind myself, I really don't need to buy a set of Ashley Iles, Sweetheart, Pfeil, and MHG chisels.

You are right about it being hard to stop. There is very little need for another chisel in my shop. When a decent one shows up at an irresistible price, it gets a ride home with me. Just like a decent hand plane.

jtk

[ken hatch]

I always wanted a set of those, but I have a set of Two Cherries (Kirschen) so there really is no reason to get the MHG ones (but I still want them :) )

I almost always work in inches, but I like having a set of metric chisels. It can be nice to have slightly undersized chisels to clean out mortices, rabbets, dados, etc, where the chisel sides don't catch on the wood.

Back on topic, the Two Cherries are nice chisels. Some folks have issues with the polishing, but it has never bothered me; a little extra grinding on the bevel in the beginning righted everything up. The only thing is that they are A2 steel, and they require a slightly higher secondary bevel than people used to O1 or vintage steel (750 style steel) may be used to, like I was when I first got them. I tend to use them in harder woods or with a mallet, where edge retention is important. For softer woods or light paring in harder woods, I tend to favor my set of vintage 750 style chisels from various manufactures.

If I was starting out and needed chisels, I would probably try the new Stanley Sweetheart 750 chisels. I like that size and style chisel, but wouldn't want it with A2 steel like the LN ones are. For an A2 chisel, I prefer a longer handle like the Two Cherries, but that is just me and my preferences.

And if I am being honest with myself, I probably could have just kept using my original set of blue-handled made-in-Sheffield Marples chisels that I have had for 20 years. But once you get the chisel bug, it is hard to stop. I have to remind myself, I really don't need to buy a set of Ashley Iles, Sweetheart, Pfeil, and MHG chisels.

Andrew,

Yes you do :D.

Less the MHG chisels I have sets of all those and others and each chisel has something they do better than the others. Such as the Sweethearts have Hornbeam handles and can be struct with a metal hammer, the Pfeil are metric and the 8mm is a lifesaver, the AI along with Sorby and Boxwood handled Marples are great for pairing and the list goes on with every chisel I have on the racks. I have way too many tools but never too many chisels.

Just last night I was finishing up some M/T's on a desk build and I had almost a dozen chisels on the bench each was there to do a specific job.

ken

[James Pallas]

I follow what Derek says on chisels. He has walls full of them. If you want edge retention than Japanese or PMV11. If the feel is the driver than something else. Derek has many chisels because he only gets one chop between sharpening.:) One hit grab another chisel. Half day on dovetails the other half sharpening chisels. Just having fun at Derek’s expense. Sharpening is only a little part of it how the tool feels in your hands is more important to me.
Jim

[Derek Cohen]

I follow what Derek says on chisels. He has walls full of them. If you want edge retention than Japanese or PMV11. If the feel is the driver than something else. Derek has many chisels because he only gets one chop between sharpening.:) One hit grab another chisel. Half day on dovetails the other half sharpening chisels. Just having fun at Derek’s expense. Sharpening is only a little part of it how the tool feels in your hands is more important to me.
Jim

Jim, I do not have walls of chisels ... just one wall ... 237 chisels. That's not much .. OK that's just the bench chisels ... then there are the paring chisels ... the firmer chisels ... the gouges ... both the in-and out channel ...

And I do not sharpen after one chop. I do a whole dovetail socket. :)

So there!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Lots of good stuff in this thread. I think it is important to compare what you will be doing with what the person giving you advice is doing. I don’t work exotics, if I did I might care more about the edge retention issue. Since I work domestic stuff, O1 works fine for me. The fact that I can sharpen it with a couple of oilstones, instead of a bunch of grinders, diamonds, ceramic stones, and stuff that would cost more than my whole shop is a plus for me.

Ken Hatch’s setup, with the portable workbench he throws in his RV or whatever, is not that different from my basement shop. The AI are similar to the old chisels he apparently orders by the container load from England, and sharpen well with an India stone and an Arkansas.


I follow what Derek says on chisels. He has walls full of them. If you want edge retention than Japanese or PMV11. If the feel is the driver than something else. Derek has many chisels because he only gets one chop between sharpening.:) One hit grab another chisel. Half day on dovetails the other half sharpening chisels. Just having fun at Derek’s expense. Sharpening is only a little part of it how the tool feels in your hands is more important to me.
Jim

[steven c newman]

Trimming 1/2" long tenons, requires a 1/2" wide, chin-powered trimmer..
403583
Tenons were a tad too fat, to fit into the grooves
403584
Making a set of 6 webframes...

[Jim Koepke]

Pfeil are metric and the 8mm is a lifesaver

8mm is almost indistinguishable from a 5/16". 5/16" chisels are not common, but there are a few out there.

What many do not know is the fractional inch sizes of 5/128, 5/64, 5/32, 5/16, 5/8 and 5/4 (1-1/4") are all close matches for 1mm, 2mm, 4mm, 8mm, 16mm and 32mm.

jtk

[Jerry Olexa]

On a value basis, the Narex are very good....I also agree to mix up your brands of chisels.It does not have to be a perfect, matched set....Generally, buying used vintage chisels as they become available, I think, yields good results...

[ken hatch]

8mm is almost indistinguishable from a 5/16". 5/16" chisels are not common, but there are a few out there.

What many do not know is the fractional inch sizes of 5/128, 5/64, 5/32, 5/16, 5/8 and 5/4 (1-1/4") are all close matches for 1mm, 2mm, 4mm, 8mm, 16mm and 32mm.

jtk

Jim,

Which is the reason the 8mm is needed. Ain't many 5/16 bench chisels out there but my most used mortise chisel is a 5/16" pigsticker.

Thanks for the reminder about the other 5's.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks for the reminder about the other 5's.

You are welcome.

It is just one of the ways of seeing how we are already metric.

jtk

[Jeff Ranck]

Really? Or did you forget to put on the sarcasm font? I don’t remember one but I would be surprised if it doesn’t come up. I was probably thinking of it because I saw a history video on YouTube recently on why America hasn’t. Really interesting. I can link it if I can and there is any interest.

Huh, I always thought we haven't switched so we could show solidarity to our good friends on Liberia and Myanmar.

[Tony Wilkins]

Huh, I always thought we haven't switched so we could show solidarity to our good friends on Liberia and Myanmar.

It’s actually a complex and fascinating (at least to a history nerd) story. Here’s the video:
https://youtu.be/yseldOMcT4Q

[Andrew Seemann]

Generally, buying used vintage chisels as they become available, I think, yields good results...

I've never had good luck finding vintage user chisels in the wild. Nearly all of my used chisels came from eBay. In 30 years of casual looking at garage sales, flea markets, and antique stores, I have maybe seen only seen maybe a half dozen good chisels, and bought maybe 3. I'm not counting old plastic handled chisels though.

I always hear that vintage chisels are easily available for only a few dollars a piece. Where ever that is, it certainly isn't around here. It has even gotten to the point where some of the vintage stuff is priced higher than newer, better made chisels (like 750s stamped with "750").

[Hasin Haroon]

I'm not sure what your budget is, but the best value for performance and quality in the western style chisels right now IMO are the Ashley Iles MKII bench chisels. They are O1, so they won't hold an edge like PMV11, but they sharpen faster and finer. I don't think LN or Veritas chisels fall into the 'affordable' category, they are definitely on the pricey end.

The Narex bench chisels are pretty good too once you get past the initial decarburization. I find the hooped handles very ugly, but to each their own.

[Jessica de Boer]

The only thing is that they are A2 steel

No one actually knows with certainty what kind of steel Kirschen uses because they keep it a secret. My guess is it's an alloyed high carbon steel.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

No, we keep imperial measurements around so we can continue to remind those snooty Europeans there are only two types of countries in the world: Those who have landed a man on the moon and those who use metric....

(the joke worked better before google let everybody know about Liberia and Myanmar).


Huh, I always thought we haven't switched so we could show solidarity to our good friends on Liberia and Myanmar.

[Tony Shea]

I can't recommend LN A2 socket chisels enough. By far my favorite chisels even compared to the popular mentioned LV PMV11. I have a couple sizes of the LV's but always reach for the LN's. I also have nice Japanese chisels and once again just reach for the LN's. Just pick up a couple sizes at a time and before you know it you'll have a complete set.

[JimA Thornton]

I can't recommend LN A2 socket chisels enough. By far my favorite chisels even compared to the popular mentioned LV PMV11. I have a couple sizes of the LV's but always reach for the LN's. I also have nice Japanese chisels and once again just reach for the LN's. Just pick up a couple sizes at a time and before you know it you'll have a complete set.

Are the handles falling off as big an issue as it is sometimes reported to be?

[David Eisenhauer]

The handles may fall out if your shop drops down to a lower than normal humidity. A short spray job with some cheap old time hairspray (think 1960's girl bands) on the handles, then jam them in place to dry there will solve the problem.

[JimA Thornton]

The handles may fall out if your shop drops down to a lower than normal humidity. A short spray job with some cheap old time hairspray (think 1960's girl bands) on the handles, then jam them in place to dry there will solve the problem.

Thanks David. They seem like really nice chisels.

[Jim Koepke]

Are the handles falling off as big an issue as it is sometimes reported to be?


The handles may fall out if your shop drops down to a lower than normal humidity. A short spray job with some cheap old time hairspray (think 1960's girl bands) on the handles, then jam them in place to dry there will solve the problem.

One or two of my older chisels had problems with the handles becoming loose. Taking the time to carefully remove the high spots on the handle's tenon solved the problem. The handle would be inserted into the socket and rotated. A 15 grain Auriou rasp was used lightly to remove any of the dark areas created by the oxidation on the inside of the socket. Eventually the handles came out with an even coating. They haven't come loose since.

One problem with the LN chisels is they are made with modern equipment. The insides of the socket are likely smooth due to being machined. (One time in a thread on the LN handles tendency to become loose it was mentioned the inside of the sockets on LN chisels are smooth.) This could leave the friction fit with a bit less friction to hold the handle. My first experiment with a smooth socket might be to run a piece of 80-120 grit sandpaper around the inside to see if roughing the inside surface improved the grip.

jtk

[ken hatch]

A "tanged" chisel handle doesn't fall off :p. I know form of chisel is very personal but a tanged chisel tends to be lighter and better balanced than the same sized socket chisel. A socket chisel usually has only two advantages; ease of handle replacement and rough work which may be the reason for ease of handle replacement :D.

ken

[James Pallas]

A "tanged" chisel handle doesn't fall off :p. I know form of chisel is very personal but a tanged chisel tends to be lighter and better balanced than the same sized socket chisel. A socket chisel usually has only two advantages; ease of handle replacement and rough work which may be the reason for ease of handle replacement :D.

ken
Just in case that “doesn’t” turns into a does you’ll have a real engineering problem facing you replacing a tang handle:p
In seriousness tho checking the fit of a socket handle is a good idea. Also prying with a socket chisel is not good, same with a Japanese chisel but different reason. My opinion is socket bench chisels are okay. Socket mortise chisels not so much. Balance is in the hand of the user, hard to measure unless it’s way off. If you have to replace a tang handle on a modern chisel the problem is worse. They don’t have a pointy end like the old ones:) All being said I’m a woodworker and I use both and have even resorted to a sharpened screwdriver if nobody is watching.
Jim

[Mike Henderson]

Just in case that “doesn’t” turns into a does you’ll have a real engineering problem facing you replacing a tang handle:p
Jim
I've replaced handles on a number of tang chisels and it's really not all that difficult. Perhaps the hardest part is getting the old handles off. Once you have the old handles off, it's just some lathe work and getting the hole for the tang the right size and depth. That's no more difficult than turning the taper for a socket chisel.

I drill the hole for the tang on my lathe, and I drill it into the blank before I turn it. That way the hole is properly aligned and centered. I fit the hole to the tang before turning the shape of the handle.

Mike

P.S. I'm going from memory here, but I think some of the newer tang chisels that I replaced handles on had tangs that were cylindrical and not pointed. That makes drilling the hole for the tang pretty easy. I replaced the handles on all my Japanese chisels and I think that's the way they were - cylindrical and not pointed. It's been a long time since I did those handles. I know that a Blue Spruce chisel that I made a handle for had a cylindrical tang.
With a pointed tang, I measure the tang a different points and use a smaller drill as I go deeper. I make a "stepped" hole for the tang and not a tapered hole.
Pigstickers are always pointed and can be more of a problem because the handle is not turned. Pigsticker handles are generally oval in cross section. So the hole for the tang has to be drilled more-or-less freehand, which makes it more difficult to keep it oriented correctly. I do a stepped hole for those handles, also.

[Andrew Seemann]

A "tanged" chisel handle doesn't fall off :p. I know form of chisel is very personal but a tanged chisel tends to be lighter and better balanced than the same sized socket chisel. A socket chisel usually has only two advantages; ease of handle replacement and rough work which may be the reason for ease of handle replacement :D.

ken

I wouldn't say that is the only advantage. The balance on some socket chisels is nice for certain types of work. My 750-type 3/4 chisel is the one I always grab if I don't have a reason for using a specific size or type of chisel. Always having to remember to grab socket chisels by the chisel part is kind of annoying though.

[Mike Henderson]

I wouldn't say that is the only advantage. The balance on some socket chisels is nice for certain types of work. My 750-type 3/4 chisel is the one I always grab if I don't have a reason for using a specific size or type of chisel. Always having to remember to grab socket chisels by the chisel part is kind of annoying though.
If you make your own handles, and the handles keep coming out of the socket, glue the handle into the socket with epoxy (if nothing else works). It will not come out. If you later decide to replace the handle, you'll have to drill out the socket so use just enough epoxy to hold it in.

Mike

[James Pallas]

Socket chisels can be a funny animal concerning handles. I used them starting out and than went to plastic 60s I think they are called. The one thing I'm pretty sure about them is, if you pull on the handles, I mean like prying, the handles will get loose and stay that way. It crushes the wood fibers or something like that. I would not cut mortises with them unless I was careful not to pull on the handles. The LN ones are beautiful and I tried them. I couldn't get along with the A2 because I like such a shallow bevel 25*. When the 750 came back I bought one to try and the bought two sets as I said earlier. I checked each handle carefully and adjusted as needed. The steel is probably not the best but it is okay for me. The balance is much the same as the old 750s. I haven't had any handle problems I don't use hairspray or any tricks and I pull them from the rack by the handle. I do not pry with them. Chop and push. If I need to pry to do the job I use another chisel.
Jim

[Derek Cohen]

As Mike has mentioned, tang handles are generally easy to make and fit. The advantage of tanged chisels is that they have lighter blades, which improves feedback. I have also made many socket chisel handles, and do not hesitate to add a dab of epoxy. A little heat (from a hairdryer or heat gun) will soften and loosen this if you wish to replace the handle.

Japanese chisels (and Western chisels, such as the Veritas and Blue Spruce) use a combined tang and socket.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John Schtrumpf]

I have an aversion to socket chisels. When I was young, I hit one and the handle decided to seat all the way down to the shoulder, catching a piece of my palm.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

The results are in and I made my decision.

I want to thank everybody for their inputs. I have been functioning with a cheap set of 4 Craftsman chisels that are over 30 years old. I have been disappointed with the softness of the metal used in these chisels resulting in me spending more time sharpening them than I like or enjoy. Listening to all the comments here was an invaluable education from someone who isn't a Neander nor will he ever be a Neander but respects Neanders and their knowledge.

1. Initially I was going to buy a set but after listening to the arguments here, I elected to buy one chisel and see if I liked it before buying 2 or 3 more to go with it.

2. I live in a remote area and don't have access to a lot of woodworking stores or highly evolved hardware stores so trying "hand fits" isn't a really convenient option. In fact, earlier this past week, I had to travel to Spokane, WA to get an end of warrantee checkout on the HA I purchased 2 years ago so I went to Woodcraft to check out what they had in stock. The store was still recovering from their Christmas rush. The WoodRiver socket chisels were in stock but not in the sizes I was interested in replacing. They had some very cheap WoodRiver chisels and other brands including one Japanese brand but they didn't raise much interest to me.

I came home and spent the major part of yesterday researching metals, types of chisels, etc.

Most of the furniture I have built and plan on building uses a lot of mortise and tenons. I haven't purchased a shoulder plane yet and find myself cleaning up tenons with a low angle block plane and a chisel. After much research, last night I decided which brand and model chisels I was interested in buying but couldn't decide which size. I woke up this morning and my subconscious mind must have worked overtime over night. I just ordered a 1" Veritas PM-V11 bench chisel.

Thanks again for all the information! It was truly valuable!

[JimA Thornton]

The results are in and I made my decision.

I want to thank everybody for their inputs. I have been functioning with a cheap set of 4 Craftsman chisels that are over 30 years old. I have been disappointed with the softness of the metal used in these chisels resulting in me spending more time sharpening them than I like or enjoy. Listening to all the comments hear was an invaluable education from someone who isn't a Neander nor will he ever be a Neander but respects Neanders and their knowledge.

1. Initially I was going to buy a set but after listening to the arguments here, I elected to buy one chisel and see if I liked it before buying 2 or 3 more to go with it.

2. I live in a remote area and don't have access to a lot of woodworking stores or highly evolved hardware stores so trying "hand fits" isn't a really convenient option. In fact, earlier this past week, I had to travel to Spokane, WA to get an end of warrantee checkout on the HA I purchased 2 years ago so I went to Woodcraft to check out what they had in stock. The store was still recovering from their Christmas rush. The WoodRiver socket chisels were in stock but not in the sizes I was interested in replacing. They had some very cheap WoodRiver chisels and other brands including one Japanese brand but they didn't raise much interest to me.

I came home and spent the major part of yesterday researching metals, types of chisels, etc.

Most of the furniture I have built and plan on building uses a lot of mortise and tenons. I haven't purchased a shoulder plane yet and find myself cleaning up tenons with a low angle block plane and a chisel. After much research, last night I decided which brand and model chisels I was interested in buying but couldn't decide which size. I woke up this morning and my subconscious mind must have worked overtime over night. I just ordered a 1" Veritas PM-V11 bench chisel.

Thanks again for all the information! It was truly valuable!

Good for you Ken. Please report back when you try it out. I've been thinking about ordering the same chisel (to replace my vintage Marples), since I seem to use that size a lot.

Jim

[Jason Lester]

I love my PMV11 chisels. The handles feel good, they don't roll around, and the edges really last. They sharpen easier than A2 for me too.

[Mike Henderson]

I think you'll really like the LV PM-V11 chisel. They're good chisels. I'm the opposite of you, however. I use my smaller chisels (1/4" and 3/8") a lot more than a 1".

Mike

[David Ryle]

I think you mean "Imperial makes no sense.....to me"

[Bruce Haugen]

A very experienced friend of mine made his own O1 chisels and used them for a long time. He was very skeptical about the PM V11 chisels until he toured the factory and bought a set for himself. He says they’re the best chisels he has ever used.