Do I need a new sharpening system?

[Steve Mathews]

First of all I don't know if this is the correct forum for this question as it involves multiple woodworking disciplines. So far I'm happy with my current system of sharpening turning tools using a slow speed grinder equipped with CBN wheels and a Oneway platform/jig. I'm equally satisfied sharpening my chisels and plane irons using some Shapton and diamond stones along with a Veritas sharpening jig. I haven't felt comfortable yet freehand sharpening. Since getting into wood carving I find a need for another system to sharpen my knives and axes. Any suggestions?

[Ben Zara]

You have a sharpening system it seems.

[Steve Mathews]

You have a sharpening system it seems.

The tools that I have could probably get the job done but with some limitations, mostly my own skills. I would feel more comfortable with a special jig, especially for the knives. I've looked at the TSPROF, Tormek, Wicked Edge and Lansky systems but haven't settled on anything yet.

[Robert Hazelwood]

Shaptons will do a fine job on knives and even axes. One issue is that you can wear the stones out of flat more easily than with a plane iron- you can mitigate this by using the entire surface of the stone and consciously moving the edge around as you sharpen. Though that is kind of awkward with an axe. The diamond stones will work as well. Most axes can be filed, so thats a good way to do coarse work. Oil stones are nice for things like this, too- a medium crystolon for coarse work, fine india for medium or even as the final grit, and maybe a hard arkansas to finish off. Oil stones are hard and resist going out of flat- except for the crystolon which kind of wears like a waterstone, but it's not a problem for curved edges (and it cuts faster than any other stone I've tried).

Sandpaper is always an option as well.

[Robert Hazelwood]

What kind of knives? A lot of carving knives I've seen are single bevel ("scandi" grind, e.g. Mora) and the bevels are so wide that they effectively serve as a jig for registering the angle. In fact they are good knives to learn freehanding on for that reason, you can get the feel of following the curve around the edge while still being confident you are at the correct angle.

I can't offer any feedback on the sharpening jigs you mentioned, but I would recommend learning to freehand if you are going to get into carving- there are so many unique shapes that you will drive yourself nuts trying to jig everything. It is not nearly as hard as it looks, you just have to fake some confidence and go for it. It's a lot easier than actually carving, after all. It seems people tend to stress out about not being at exactly the perfect angle on every stroke, and you won't be, but it doesn't matter much that half of your strokes are at 31 degrees and the other half at 29, you just end up with a 31 degree edge and did a bit of extra work- it'll still be sharp. With some care and practice you can get your error much less than two degrees. Practice on a cheap pocketknife if you are worried about messing up a nice tool.

[glenn bradley]

Something like this? (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?270323-Gouge-Sharpening-Jig-for-the-Worksharp&highlight=) Do you have in-cannel tools? Are we talking gouges or straight cutters?