saw dust, dye, glue ???

[Zahid Naqvi]

I have read previously about how you can mix sawdust with glue and create a "filler" for not so perfect joints etc. I am in the process of making a small box which has finger jointed corner. Hand cut, if you want to know, and as such there are small gaps here and there. There are also some joints in the dividers in the inside that need to be filled. The inside is black/ebony, which was achieved through a transtint water based dye. I saved plenty of saw dust and I also have the usual yellow glue as well a hide glue, and of course the dye. I have also read about using Shellac instead of glue.

So how should I go about creating a black paste that I can use to fill the voids.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Zahid......I'm sure others with more experience will chime in but considering what you're trying to do...here's my .02........I think I'd try tinting the sawdust first and then mixing it with shellac and filling the gaps. If you have some scraps....I'd dye it like the original....make a gap.....and fill with whatever you want to try........If not....your original project could be come you trial.....I've tried this once using yellow glue and sawdust...the yellow glue and sawdust didn't come out the same "tones" as the original wood. When I put varnish over it, it was real noticeable......Just my opinion based on a 1 time experience....Good Luck!

[Zahid Naqvi]

I think I'd try tinting the sawdust first and then mixing it with shellac and filling the gaps.

thanks Ken, so you are suggesting I tint/dye the saw dust first and then mix it with shellac and fill the gaps. So how sticky is Shellac, should I be concerned about it crumbling off after 6 months. Granted I will have several coats of a Deft(lacquer) on top.

[Jim Becker]

I find it much better to use small slivers of wood with the same grain orientation as one side of the joint to fill imperfect joinery. Any kind of filler, commercial or shop-concocted will never be "invisible"...the slivers, however, really disappear. And if you size them thickness wise and cram them in just right, no glue is necessary...your finish will hold them in. Anytime you can repair wood with wood, it's the better method.

[Steve Schoene]

I'll second slivers. If you carefully select for the grain match you can work wonders with the slivers.

I tend to try to fix any remaining glitches after I have applied the first coat or two of the top coat. That way the final color is pretty well set. I like shellac sticks which can be blended to get a very close color mix.

[Dennis Peacock]

Z,

As Jim Becker already mentioned, if it can be done, I'd do it with a small sliver of wood. I've tried several methods of patching joints with various concoctions of fillers and all to no real satisfaction. They may say stainable, but don't believe it for a minute. You'll have a real mess on your hands in no time flat. DAMHIKT!!!!!

[Bob Oehler]

I also like the wood sliver and or wood wedge method. In the past I have actually opened up a defect a little with a chisel to get a piece of wood to fill the defect. I use hide glue to fasten all but the tighest slivers. I have had some work out and then there is a real problem. Most of my gluing is with hide glue and finishes are oil and wax, not real good for holding wood in place.

My 2 Cents
Take care
Bob Oehler