Scott Bernstein
02-04-2019, 2:54 PM
I didn't come across too many reports of upgrading the motor in a SawStop PCS, so I thought I would mention my experience. I purchased the 110V/1.75hp model because, at the time, I had only an old 60A main breaker panel in the house which was completely full and was not ready to make the investment in installing new service, new breaker panel, and re-wiring things. The 1.75hp model worked pretty well, actually, although it struggled through thicker stock. Eventually I did hire an electrician and he installed a new 200A service to the house, a much larger load center (breaker panel), and also a 60A sub-panel/transfer switch for a generator when the power goes out. He also added a 220V line in the garage for a 220v band saw I had just purchased. That was about 2 years ago and I finally got around to the sawstop upgrade. First thing I did was run another 220 line to the table saw. I used the same 4-pole outlet the electrician used for the first 220 oulet - a 30amp NEMA L14-30.
No problem getting the new motor and 220v controller from the company. Switching out the motor was relatively straight forward - you need someone to help you or a small table, wood box, etc...to rest the 50lb motor as you fasten the mounting screws. Tensioning the belt was also easy - I was advised to wedge a piece of 2x4 between the motor housing and a large steel pinion under the table, then use the height adjuster wheel in the front to apply tension. Then tighten the motor mount screws - easy!
Next you remove the old switch contactor box and also open the smaller start-switch box. Connect the new contactor wires to the start-switch and the motor. Then re-assemble both components (remember to feed the wires through the appropriate holes in the cabinet) and re-mount both components.
Next, I had to remove the three-prong 220v plug from the contactor box and replace it with a NEMA L14-30P 4-prong plug compatible with my outlets. The sawstop requires only two hot wires and the ground (not the neutral), so that prong is not used.
Once that was done the saw was ready to fire. I quickly found that I was getting false-triggers of the brake. This required replacing the brake "cable" from the starter switch box to the arbor and brake cartridge holder in the saw - apparently there was a loose or broken conductor in this cable somewhere along this process. I replaced that cable (which took longer than the motor) but now it works great! Spins up instantly and the extra power is great.
Scott B
No problem getting the new motor and 220v controller from the company. Switching out the motor was relatively straight forward - you need someone to help you or a small table, wood box, etc...to rest the 50lb motor as you fasten the mounting screws. Tensioning the belt was also easy - I was advised to wedge a piece of 2x4 between the motor housing and a large steel pinion under the table, then use the height adjuster wheel in the front to apply tension. Then tighten the motor mount screws - easy!
Next you remove the old switch contactor box and also open the smaller start-switch box. Connect the new contactor wires to the start-switch and the motor. Then re-assemble both components (remember to feed the wires through the appropriate holes in the cabinet) and re-mount both components.
Next, I had to remove the three-prong 220v plug from the contactor box and replace it with a NEMA L14-30P 4-prong plug compatible with my outlets. The sawstop requires only two hot wires and the ground (not the neutral), so that prong is not used.
Once that was done the saw was ready to fire. I quickly found that I was getting false-triggers of the brake. This required replacing the brake "cable" from the starter switch box to the arbor and brake cartridge holder in the saw - apparently there was a loose or broken conductor in this cable somewhere along this process. I replaced that cable (which took longer than the motor) but now it works great! Spins up instantly and the extra power is great.
Scott B