Stanley 9 1/2

[Mark Gibney]

I found a Stanley 9 1/2 at the back of a drawer.

Before I go and fettle it, is this a useful plane? The reason I ask is that with a bed of 20° and a bevel of 25° that's 45°, same as a bench plane.

I can see this being fine for long grain, but what about on end grain?

I have a 60 1/2 too as it happens. Were they made for different purposes?

Is there an argument to put a 30 or 35° bevel on the 9 1/2 and just not consider using it on end grain?

thanks, looking forward to learning something.

[Jim Koepke]

Funny there was one of these found a week or two ago in one of my drawers, laying there forgotten.

To me it is somewhat the same as using a bench plane without the knob and tote. My #102 is my go to block plane when a small standard angle plane is wanted.

For me it is a usable tool, but rather redundant. For another it would be a fine choice when they want a smaller plane than their #3 or 4.

jtk

[Andrew Seemann]

I use my 9 1/2 planes all the time. I have one dedicated to chamfering, one set very fine for end grain or touching up face grain, another set more coarse, and another set fine as a spare. I find them more useful than 60 1/2 planes for whatever reason. I also carry one in my carpentry box.

[Warren Mickley]

Block planes were designed for carpenters to carry around and use with one hand. They were called block planes because carpenters did an operation called blocking in: cutting a piece a little over long and planing the end grain to get a fit to just squeeze in.

Your bench plane will do a fine job of planing end grain.

[Derek Cohen]

I found a Stanley 9 1/2 at the back of a drawer.

Before I go and fettle it, is this a useful plane? The reason I ask is that with a bed of 20° and a bevel of 25° that's 45°, same as a bench plane.

I can see this being fine for long grain, but what about on end grain?

I have a 60 1/2 too as it happens. Were they made for different purposes?

Is there an argument to put a 30 or 35° bevel on the 9 1/2 and just not consider using it on end grain?

thanks, looking forward to learning something.

Mark, try the plane after adding a 40 degree secondary bevel. Add a little camber at the same time. (use a honing guide to do this).

What you now have is a one-handed smoother. This will be terrific for small sections where you are concerned about tearout, and especially for chamfering edges.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark Gibney]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I think I'll put a 40° secondary bevel on the iron à la Derek and get smoothing.

[Mark Gibney]

Checking back in with an update - I put a 40° bevel on the 9 1/2, lapped the sole, and it works great as a one-handed smoother.

It's light, and a good size to hold. I've been using it when a piece is too big to be easily clamped, but is not heavy enough to resist being pushed around by planing, so I need my free hand to hold it.

[Kevin Hampshire]

Good to hear that you’re liking your No. 9 1/2.

I already have a No. 1 smoother that’s absolutely awesome, but a few weeks ago I ordered a Stanley No. 9 1/2 to try out.

It’s in, I just need to pick it up.

[Jim Koepke]

To my surprise, a #9-1/2 was found in a drawer the other day. My vague memory was it was purchased at an estate sale for less than $5.

jtk