How do you attach your table tops?

[Thomas Crawford]

I am planning a shaker style desk for my daughter. Basic leg and apron pretty much like this one: https://www.finewoodworking.com/1990/04/01/making-a-writing-desk

I've looked at button mortises like here: https://woodandshop.com/tableanatomy/

Or just some figure eight connectors: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=50311&cat=3,41306,41312&ap=1

I am wondering what other methods there are to attach the table tops and why you prefer a certain method.

[steven c newman]

I make corner blocks
402387
As they also strength the corners...then I drill a slotted hole into each...slot goes so any expansion of the top, the screws can slide a bit
402388
With a washer underneath the head of the screw.
402389
Drill a hole, then rock the drill "front to back" to create the slot. Learned this from Norm Abram....

[Prashun Patel]

I made that desk. You need to provide clearance for those drawers. Buttons or corner braces will be tricky along the center line.

I used figure 8s.

You could also just make elongated slots in all of your kickers and then use screws and washers. However, make the kickers a little wider than your runners so that you can access the slot comfortably with a screwdriver.

[Andrew Seemann]

I have used the method in the FWW article, but more usually for desks as I tend to make tables with deeper aprons. For smaller tables I use figure 8s, and for larger ones I use cleats, called button mortices in that end table article. Figure 8s tend to be fastest but don't always work for the application. I also use cleats when I am out of figure 8s and don't want to go to the store to get more. The elongated hole with washer and screw works good if you can hide it and need to use short screws. You can also get metal z clips. Not very Neander, but even Neanders don't need to do everything the most difficult and time consuming way possible.

Basically any method that provides enough movement will work just fine. Pick the one easiest for your applicaiton.

[Richard Jones]

Buttons. Just because that's the way I think it should be done and it works and now maybe this message is long enough to post instead of just the "Buttons" that I tried at first...................

[Jason Baker IX]

I just finished a couple 4ft outdoor benches (which are basically low tables) and I used the figure eight connectors to attach the tops. The benches were around 14in wide. When I build the outdoor table for these benches, I'll probably use button mortices because I feel like they would be more robust.

[Phil Mueller]

When there is a drawer, I screw up through the kicker (elongated slot). And as Prashun mentioned, I make the kickers wider than the runners to easily access with a screwdriver. No drawer, I use Z clips or screw up through corner blocks.

[Thomas Crawford]

Thanks everyone.

So with the figure-eights is the idea that it pivots with wood movement so you just snug the screws nice and tight?

[glenn bradley]

Thanks everyone.

So with the figure-eights is the idea that it pivots with wood movement so you just snug the screws nice and tight?

I do like so; a Forstner make a hole the size of one of the figure 8's ends (some are different, some are the same).

402393

I use a chisel to open the end that the figure 8 is to extend out of.

402394

This allows the motion you are after.

402391 . 402392

I screw them down tight along the center-line thus allowing for expansion or shrinkage from the time I attach.

[Rob Luter]

Thanks everyone.

So with the figure-eights is the idea that it pivots with wood movement so you just snug the screws nice and tight?

Yup. I've used them and they work great.

[Thomas Crawford]

I do like so; a Forstner make a hole the size of one of the figure 8's ends (some are different, some are the same).

402393

I use a chisel to open the end that the figure 8 is to extend out of.

402394

This allows the motion you are after.

402391 . 402392

I screw them down tight along the center-line thus allowing for expansion or shrinkage from the time I attach.

Thanks for the pics!

[Peter Christensen]

These (http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40146&cat=3,41306,41309), also from LV, work well. I cut slots for them with my biscuit machine but the table saw works fine too. I've also done it with the the corner blocks in addition to the clips for longer aprons.

[Mike Henderson]

I usually use figure 8's but button blocks work well, also, if you don't have any interference.

Mike

[steven c newman]

402410402411402412
YMMV...
402413
Photo caption says "drawer guides" top is to the right...
402414
Drawer runner...thin piece is to make up for the legs, small block is a stop, so the drawer won't go back too far..

[Prashun Patel]

I forgot that the corner braces would be in the plane of the kickers and won’t therefore interfere with the drawers. My mistake.

[chris carter]

Build pic of underside of end table.
402455

[Matt Evans]

On that style I'd likely just slot the bottom of the apron for a few elongated holes and screw the apron to the top. I haven't used the figure 8s myself.

When I can I typically try to screw a cleat into the bottom of the table (elongate holes in cleat for wood movement), then cut a mortise in the top of whatever stretcher/apron/base, then drawbore the holes.