From Grizzly G0513X2F to Mimimax MM16 (2005 era model)

[Greg Parrish]

Would the minimax be considered an upgrade? I have the grizzly and have an opportunity on what looks to be an excellent condition MM16 that is possibly a 2005 model. Would this saw offer any upgrade or would it be comparable? My current saw is fine mind you but wasn’t sure if there might be a reason to consider the minimax.

With a hammer jointer/planer and Felder saw as recent acquisitions I had planned to update the band saw in the future to a similar level machine but was thinking of an 18” model. Not sure if this minimax fits the upgrade bill.

Thanks for any input.

[Erik Loza]

Greg, what do you feel the MM16 will you get you that you can’t do now on the current machine?

Erik

[Greg Parrish]

Greg, what do you feel the MM16 will you get you that you can’t do now on the current machine?

Erik

no clue. That’s why I’m asking. LOL. This is the older 3.6hp model so maybe prior to 2004. It may not do anything better than my newer grizzly but that’s why I’m curious. I’m selling my Powermatic and this saw was mentioned in way of trade so it made me want to find out. I’m thinking it wouldn’t be enough different than my grizzly to consider it. My thoughts on an 18 or 20 inch Saw was greater throat and resaw with euro build quality like my new machines.

then again maybe this saw adds stiffer spine, more mass and 1/2” more resaw. But not sure on those things given the age.

[Erik Loza]

Do you just have new machine-itis? Nothing wrong with that. My Seiko and Citizen watches serve me fine but if someone offered me a deal on a Rolex, I’d consider it. Not because I need a Rolex but because I always wondered what it would be like to own one.

Erik

[Greg Parrish]

Not at all. That’s why the bandsaw was a possible future upgrade. Don’t know that I would ever get to that point or if I would see any benefit quite honestly. As mentioned my 17 is working fine. It was just something I needed to consider since it was offered. After finding specs and details online on the older MM16 machines, I don’t think it would offer any real advantage for my use but wondered if anyone would point out something I missed. Thx. :)



Do you just have new machine-itis? Nothing wrong with that. My Seiko and Citizen watches serve me fine but if someone offered me a deal on a Rolex, I’d consider it. Not because I need a Rolex but because I always wondered what it would be like to own one.

Erik

[John TenEyck]

If I read the specs. right your Grizzly has a 2 HP motor. That would be a big step up on the MM to 3.6, and would likely saw much quicker on thick stock. The MM may also be able to handle a 1" blade and that would allow you to use a 1.3 tpi blade if you wanted to. The Grizzly is rated up to a 1" blade but most times manufacturers overstate the maximum size blade that can be used, or at least the saw can't put what I consider adequate tension (25 K psi) on the widest rated blade. So maybe the MM can run a 1" blade while the Grizzly probably can't. If you want to resaw efficiently a 1.3 tpi blade is significantly faster than one with 2 tpi, the coarsest I think you can get with a 3/4" one.

If none of this matters to you - stick with the Grizzly and satisfy some other tool lust.

John

[Richard Coers]

I'd also feel more confident in the rating of the motor on the Minimax than a Chinese built motor.

[Shiraz Balolia]

I'd also feel more confident in the rating of the motor on the Minimax than a Chinese built motor.


It is not a Chinese made motor. It is a motor certified by CSA (look that up) …………………………...sheesh!!!!

Plus the Grizzly machine is made in an ISO 9001 certified factory. All specs are correct and it handles the size of blade as listed.

[Jim Becker]

Greg, if the MM16 has the 12" re-saw height, it's identical to mine. It's been an excellent saw. I really cannot offer a comparison to the other unit you mention as I'm not familiar with it.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks for clarifying that Shiraz. I wasn’t questioning my Grizzly as it has served me just fine so far. I was just wondered if the MM16 would really be a step up. That said, I didn’t make the trade and am instead selling my table saw for cash. So the grizzly will continue to hold a spot in my shop. :)




It is not a Chinese made motor. It is a motor certified by CSA (look that up) …………………………...sheesh!!!!

Plus the Grizzly machine is made in an ISO 9001 certified factory. All specs are correct and it handles the size of blade as listed.

[Greg Parrish]

Greg, if the MM16 has the 12" re-saw height, it's identical to mine. It's been an excellent saw. I really cannot offer a comparison to the other unit you mention as I'm not familiar with it.

Not sure. Owner said it was a 2005 with 16”, but it has the 3.6hp motor. Regardless, the price made it not work for a trade so he is just buying my saw outright. I’ll keep my grizzly for now.

[Jim Becker]

Not sure. Owner said it was a 2005 with 16”, but it has the 3.6hp motor. Regardless, the price made it not work for a trade so he is just buying my saw outright. I’ll keep my grizzly for now.
Ok, that was the "transitional" version that had the same motor as mine, but had the increased re-saw height, so 2005 is about right because mine was bought in 2004, if I'm not mistaken. They subsequently kicked it up to the larger motor.

[Greg Parrish]

Ok, that was the "transitional" version that had the same motor as mine, but had the increased re-saw height, so 2005 is about right because mine was bought in 2004, if I'm not mistaken. They subsequently kicked it up to the larger motor.

Honestly the 3.6 motor would be better for me as it would fit my 20amp service but regardless the price was too far out there for me to justify it right now. Need to recoup from the new saw first.

[Greg Parrish]

Okay, more info. Turns out it is a 2005 model with 16” resaw, 4.8hp motor, mobility kit and appears to be in good shape. I’m guessing this would make for a pretty good upgrade from my 17” even though the thread depth would be a little smaller.

The motor plate shows 20.8 max amp. That means 30amp circuit, right?

[Jim Becker]

Yes, the 4.8hp motor requires a 30 amp circuit. That's the motor in both my J/P and my slider. Given the specs, it's the follow-on version from the transitional one I mentioned. It's a good tool. Again, I cannot personally compare it to your current saw, however.

[Greg Parrish]

Well, I just made a deal on it. Guy getting my Powermatic table saw is bringing it with him.

I dont really do anything that needs more throat clearance but think the resaw height and increased horsepower, as well as possible stiffer spine will will be great for doing resaw it as well as for making bowl blanks.

So, now instead of raising some cash from my table saw I’ll put the grizzly up for sale instead. LOL. Other than a festool domino 500 and building a workbench, the shop upgrade transformation is pretty much done with this bandsaw coming in. At least until we get a bigger shop one day down the road. I know, famous last words. LOL.



Yes, the 4.8hp motor requires a 30 amp circuit. That's the motor in both my J/P and my slider. Given the specs, it's the follow-on version from the transitional one I mentioned. It's a good tool. Again, I cannot personally compare it to your current saw, however.

[Greg Parrish]

Here are some pics
402076
402077
402079
402080
402083
402082

[Richard Coers]

Well, I just made a deal on it. Guy getting my Powermatic table saw is bringing it with him.

I dont really do anything that needs more throat clearance but think the resaw height and increased horsepower, as well as possible stiffer spine will will be great for doing resaw it as well as for making bowl blanks.

So, now instead of raising some cash from my table saw I’ll put the grizzly up for sale instead. LOL. Other than a festool domino 500 and building a workbench, the shop upgrade transformation is pretty much done with this bandsaw coming in. At least until we get a bigger shop one day down the road. I know, famous last words. LOL.

Careful, someone's going to come on and dispute that possible stiffer spine comment! LOL:D

[Greg Parrish]

Careful, someone's going to come on and dispute that possible stiffer spine comment! LOL:D

It may not be. Don’t know but you can’t argue it has more horsepower and more resaw capacity. It looks like it weighs about 100 to 150 pounds more too.

[John TenEyck]

Well that's a BIG step up from the 2 HP Grizzly when you resaw thick stock or if you want to slice veneer, plus you now have 16" resaw height. I don't know if the spine is any stiffer, but I'll wager it will run a 1" Woodmaster CT just fine and that is a resaw/veneer slicing monster. Congrats.

John

[Dave Cav]

Not because I need a Rolex but because I always wondered what it would be like to own one.

Erik

$600 or so every seven or eight years for a factory service.

[Jim Becker]

Congratulations! That's a fine machine and clearly in great condition. Enjoy!

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks guys. Once I realized it was the higher capacity, higher horsepower machine and saw the condition pics it seemed like a no brained to try to work something out.

[Greg Parrish]

Just looked up the net weight differences (not shipping weights) and it looks like it’s 200 lbs heavier. 535 lbs vs 335. Maybe some is the motor but Holy cow, that’s a significant difference in steel somewhere.

[Matthew Hills]

I’d say the fence accounts for a good chunk of that difference

[Greg Parrish]

I’d say the fence accounts for a good chunk of that difference

Maybe but my grizzly has a cast iron fence too. He should be here in next 20 to 30 mins so I’ll know soon. LOL

[Greg Parrish]

Done deal. They were both heavy to load and unload for two guys and no lifting equip but I could feel the weight in the minimax.

Only thing i can see it needed is is some level feet for the front. Anyone know the thread size or where I can order replacements?

402106

[Jim Becker]

What I did with mine is put it on a piece of 3/4" plywood... that keeps the wheels off the ground for the mobility kit. Mine doesn't have leveling feet in the front, either, and never did but does have tapped holes. (keep in mind mine is the older version) Others will have to provide the thread information.

[Greg Parrish]

What I did with mine is put it on a piece of 3/4" plywood... that keeps the wheels off the ground for the mobility kit. Mine doesn't have leveling feet in the front, either, and never did but does have tapped holes. (keep in mind mine is the older version) Others will have to provide the thread information.

Prob the same size threads but the plywood is a good idea. I may be able to test the threads through the top access hole but will wait till tomorrow to get back in the shop. I’ve got to get the power worked out to add a 30amp outlet also. :)

[Erik Loza]

..Anyone know the thread size or where I can order replacements?...

M12x1.75

Erik

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks Erik. Turns out the items with the saw included the leveling bolts. They don’t have rubber foot pads but it’s better than nothing.

I need to to figure out what size blades to order now. It gives a range of 151.18 to 154.33 on the sticker but I’ve read lots of different stuff on what to actually get.

Also need to figure out the miter since I didn’t get a factory miter. I have an Incra v27 but it seems like the bar might be slightly to tall.


M12x1.75

Erik

[Greg Parrish]

Looks like 154” is the recommended blade length for my saw. I’m trying to decide which carbide resaw blade to pick for best performance on this saw now. Leaning towards a Lenox Tri-Master but not sure what width or tooth pattern.

One thing of interest is that I thought the saw had 16” of resaw but when I move the blade guard up and down I can only get it to around 14” of clearance. Also can’t get the blade guard all the way down like I could on the grizzly. It is still around 6” from the table when it stops. Is this normal or is something hanging up too soon in each direction?

[Jim Becker]

Greg, I had the 1" Lenox TriMaster for my MM16 and honestly, if I were buying again, I'd do 3/4" if it was available. The 1" blade was pushing the limit I think, given the tight radius of the wheels, although the cut was beautiful. (Until I totally buggered the blade due to "human error"...a painful thing, especially financially)

On your other question, the guard should go all the way to the table. Be sure it's not on up-side-down. That may also affect things "up top", too.

[John TenEyck]

The 3/4" and 1" Trimaster blades both are made with 0.035" thickness bands, so the stress in them is the same going around the wheels. Whether or not the MM16 can put 25K psi on a 1" band is a valid question, though I suspect your saw is beefed up compared to earlier models and can do it. Assuming it can the advantage of going to a 1" band is you could use a 3-4 tpi and that will cut smoother than the 3/4" band which only comes in 3 tpi. Or you could go with the Woodmaster C blade. The 1" version of that blade can be had in 1.3 tpi; the 3/4" one has 2 tpi as it's coarsest offering. If you want to resaw thick stock or slice wide veneer the Woodmaster C in 1.3 tpi is in a class of it's own for how fast and smoothly it cuts.

John

[Jim Becker]

My error, John...I though the 3/4 version was slightly thinner. My bad.

[Greg Parrish]

And my error. It is the 16” resaw model. One of the collapsible saw shields was hung. Got them off and cleaned up some and unstuck the one offender. LOL

402169

402170

[Greg Parrish]

Okay, I ordered a 154” lenox woodmaster ct to try out for a resaw blade. Will go back and order a few Timberwolf or diemaster 2 blades next for general cutting and curves but want to confirm the 154” is correct once this arrives.

[Jim Becker]

There's a bit of room in the tensioning system so as long as you are in the range, you'll be fine. Having the range is nice because occasionally, you'll come across a band that's pre-made at a slightly different length. For buying bands from places that size them exact, you can specify the length.

[Greg Parrish]

Well my sticker says up to 154.33 but all my searches say order 154. Guess we will see but hopefully I made a good call. I did order from a cut to order place called spectrum supply.

[Phillip Gregory]

If I read the specs. right your Grizzly has a 2 HP motor. That would be a big step up on the MM to 3.6, and would likely saw much quicker on thick stock. The MM may also be able to handle a 1" blade and that would allow you to use a 1.3 tpi blade if you wanted to. The Grizzly is rated up to a 1" blade but most times manufacturers overstate the maximum size blade that can be used, or at least the saw can't put what I consider adequate tension (25 K psi) on the widest rated blade. So maybe the MM can run a 1" blade while the Grizzly probably can't. If you want to resaw efficiently a 1.3 tpi blade is significantly faster than one with 2 tpi, the coarsest I think you can get with a 3/4" one.

If none of this matters to you - stick with the Grizzly and satisfy some other tool lust.

John

I have a Grizzly G0513X2 which is the same unit as the -X2F but without the brake. A 1" blade can be run on the saw, but it's a real bear to get that wide of a blade onto and off of the saw as there is just *barely* enough space in the table hole and around the lower blade guides to do so. It will run the blade just fine once installed. I do not have a tension gauge but 1" blades apparently are able to be properly tensioned using the flutter method as my cuts were square and consistent without drift or barreling. I stick with 1/2" or 3/4" blades as they are far easier to install and remove than 1" blades.