Outfitting the shop

[John Isgren]

As I mentioned in another post I am in the process of building out a hand tool shop. This is my plans and wishlist so far:

Planes
Block plane - LN
#4 LN, #5 Vintage Bailey, #7 LN - Stanley Handyman converted to scrub
Veritas Joinery set -Small Plow, Skew Rabbet, Router, Medium Shoulder

Saws - LN
Rip Panel, Crosscut panel, Tapered dovetail, Tapered tenon, Tapered Carcase
Vintage coping

Chisels
Marples 6 pc set

Marking
Titemark (2), Veritas mortise gauge, 12” combo square, Panel gauge, Dividers (2)

Sharpening
I have 3 water stone + 1 diamond plate + strop

Boring
Vintage brace, Brad point set, Auger but set

Misc
Wooden handle drivers, Saw files, Saw set, Cabinet makers rasp, holdfast (2), plane stop

Machines
17” Grizzly bandsaw, dust extractor, Dewalt planer, I still have a small Ryobi table saw with a sliding miter.

i have clamps, etc to get me started.

What am I missing. Initial projects will be shop related, but plan to make furniture for the house.

[Mark Rainey]

Wood mallet.

[John Isgren]

That’s on the “build” list:)

[ken hatch]

Wood mallet.

A "lumpy" is better.

ken

[Scott Winners]

Marking knife. I just ordered my third one, not happy with the first two. Buy cheap ones until you find a style that works for you. If you drop on the floor a lot, keep buying cheap ones.

Bench vise is not the place to save a few bucks, go all out without missing the mortgage payment.

Lighting. There is a sticky in the shop build section near the top of the page. 100 candles per square foot for those of us over age 25.

[Jim Koepke]

Sounds like you have a good start. My first projects were done with a saw, hammer and a bunch of sand paper.


What am I missing. Initial projects will be shop related, but plan to make furniture for the house.

Starting with shop projects is a good place to start. They can be the experiments that teach you better design and joinery.

Making a mallet will be an experience with mortising and making a tapered tenon.

Here is the making of one of my mallets:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?161952

A few shop items like bench hooks, shooting board and tool storage are good places to start when setting up shop.

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Saw vise. You can make the wooden one that will clamp in your bench vise, although with time you may want something else.

[chris carter]

2" machinist's square. It is probably my most used measuring tool. I can't imagine jointing boards without it, plus other stuff.

[John Isgren]

A few shop items like bench hooks, shooting board and tool storage are good places to start when setting up shop.

jtk

Project list:
bench hook
shooting board
mallet
dovetail gauges - Sellers
sawbench - Schwarz design
saw horses - Sellers design
large dutch-style tool box - modified Schwarz
Workbench - right now planning on a Holtzapffel style with a twin screw Veritas front vise and Eclipse QR tail. I may add an apron and crochet to the back side.

[Dan Hulbert]

Just start making things, you'll discover what you need as you go. The basic rule is that each new project needs at least one new tool.

[ken hatch]

Project list:
bench hook
shooting board
mallet
dovetail gauges - Sellers
sawbench - Schwarz design
saw horses - Sellers design
large dutch-style tool box - modified Schwarz
Workbench - right now planning on a Holtzapffel style with a twin screw Veritas front vise and Eclipse QR tail. I may add an apron and crochet to the back side.

John,

Both the Holtzapffel and the Roubo are good solid benches but the Moravian bench could be a better pick for most woodworkers for several reasons. First it will easily break down if it needs moving. For the same stability the Moravian is lighter and because it uses less wood cheaper to build. The third advantage is the joints are smaller and more forgiving to make, it is an easy, quick build. If I'm able, no day job interference, to devote my time to just building the bench one can be completed in a couple or three weeks tops depending on how many glue ups are needed. I know I sound like a fanboy but there are sound reasons why.

ken

[Tom Bender]

Definitely a sander

[Stew Denton]

John, you may want to consider some sort of way to make moldings such as either a router table, a very small number of molding planes, or perhaps a combination plane.

Stew

[Tony Wilkins]

Your list looks good. I wouldn’t invest in a lot of tools of a certain brand or kind until you are sure it’s particular ergonomics agree with you. I would invest in one of three resources — two books and a video/web resource. There are several such resources but the ones I’m thinking of have tool lists and a series of projects focusing on shop tools.

the two books are The New Traditional Woodworker by Jim Tolpin and The Unplugged Workshop by Fidgen.

The web is Shannon Rogers’ handtoolschool.net.

[John Isgren]

Thanks, I will look into those!

[John Isgren]

John, you may want to consider some sort of way to make moldings such as either a router table, a very small number of molding planes, or perhaps a combination plane.

Stew
I have a router and table, but it is my least favorite machine. As I progress I definitely want to explore the molding planes!

[John Isgren]

Definitely a sander
I have a few small power tools still. Portable belt sander, bench belt/disc sanders in two sizes, random orbit sander, bench bandsaw, router w/table, biscuit joiner.

[John Isgren]

John,

Both the Holtzapffel and the Roubo are good solid benches but the Moravian bench could be a better pick for most woodworkers for several reasons. First it will easily break down if it needs moving. For the same stability the Moravian is lighter and because it uses less wood cheaper to build. The third advantage is the joints are smaller and more forgiving to make, it is an easy, quick build. If I'm able, no day job interference, to devote my time to just building the bench one can be completed in a couple or three weeks tops depending on how many glue ups are needed. I know I sound like a fanboy but there are sound reasons why.

ken

The workbench is where I fluctuate the most right now. Roubo vs Moravian vs Nicholson vs some type of hybrid. When I design I tend to add more and more complexity and at some point have to stop, go back and start simple. Right now I am in that mode and am contemplating a very simple Paul Sellers style bench. I would add some holes for holdfasts and a plane stop.

that is also why I built a quick bench so I could start using it and deciding what I needed in a bench.

[Brandon Speaks]

I was posting this same question about 15 months ago, my tool list and project list was very similar. The tool kit has gotten me through since then with only minor changes. There are only a few notable differences.

1. I went way lighter on the joinery planes with only a router plane, I recently added a plow which I should have just bought to begin with. If you have not already purchased I would get those 2 with more cutters and forego the shoulder and skew rabbet, woody rabbets are everywhere for cheap and easy to add if you want one.
2. I bought more saws, this is partly because I got bitten by the disston rehab bug but did teach me a few lessons. 1) Sawing is likely the most important skill, a good cut makes everything else easier 2) Tooth profile, length, etc for a specific cut make it easier 3) For any given saw you have to use it enough to know it well, kind of like the old hunter saying "beware the man with one rifle, he knows how to shoot it" 4) This brings me back full circle to the fact that I only use a few saws but the exercise showed me which ones it would be and only cost a little bit given the price of old saws. For now use what you have but be on the look out for old saws to rehab and experiment with
3. As someone else mentioned you need a marking knife or 3
4. Go ahead and make the dovetail gauges but also try the Klausz pin first method, most prefer tail first but it frustrated the heck out of me, as soon as I did my very first pin first it just clicked and I went from hating dovetails to loving them.
5. If you plan to cut mortises the Narex mortise chisels are handy, I dont use mine a lot but they are gold when I do
6. Play around with some specialty chisels when you get a chance, a dedicated paring chisel can be real nice, I see no need for a full set but love the 2 I have

Overall your kit looks good though, go make some shavings!

[John Isgren]

I was posting this same question about 15 months ago, my tool list and project list was very similar. The tool kit has gotten me through since then with only minor changes. There are only a few notable differences.

1. I went way lighter on the joinery planes with only a router plane, I recently added a plow which I should have just bought to begin with. If you have not already purchased I would get those 2 with more cutters and forego the shoulder and skew rabbet, woody rabbets are everywhere for cheap and easy to add if you want one.


Overall your kit looks good though, go make some shavings!

The only reason for so many is the Veritas package is so good. For not much more than the plow and the router you get all 4.

[ken hatch]

The workbench is where I fluctuate the most right now. Roubo vs Moravian vs Nicholson vs some type of hybrid. When I design I tend to add more and more complexity and at some point have to stop, go back and start simple. Right now I am in that mode and am contemplating a very simple Paul Sellers style bench. I would add some holes for holdfasts and a plane stop.

that is also why I built a quick bench so I could start using it and deciding what I needed in a bench.

John,

Different things blow different skirts, YMMV, and all that rot but: After building and working on a number of benches, both built by me and others, the one constant I've found is that simpler is better. Anything more than a face vise of some kind just gets in the way, adds to the cost and complexity (time to build) of the build, and in use will many times slow the workflow.

After my third Moravian build I've become an advocate of that style bench because of its advantages over the other popular benches. That said, any style will work and any build is a series of tradeoffs.

ken

[steven c newman]

Not sure where the OP lives, but anyone is welcome to stop by the Dungeon Shop, and try out the toys..er...tools, I use. Just let me know when you want to drop by...

[Tony Wilkins]

Not sure where the OP lives, but anyone is welcome to stop by the Dungeon Shop, and try out the toys..er...tools, I use. Just let me know when you want to drop by...

I hunk that many creekers, mystery included, would extend that offer. What area is your neck of the woods?

[steven c newman]

Bellefontaine, OH.

[John Isgren]

John,

Different things blow different skirts, YMMV, and all that rot but: After building and working on a number of benches, both built by me and others, the one constant I've found is that simpler is better. Anything more than a face vise of some kind just gets in the way, adds to the cost and complexity (time to build) of the build, and in use will many times slow the workflow.

After my third Moravian build I've become an advocate of that style bench because of its advantages over the other popular benches. That said, any style will work and any build is a series of tradeoffs.

ken

You got me thinking and now I have another plan. I need to build better legs for this bench:
402269

So why not build them”Moravian” style:

402270

Then I can build the Paul Sellers style bench and have best of both worlds. I will have room for two bench’s, one in the middle,of the shop and one against the wall. We will see which one ends up in which position.

402271

[steven c newman]

Look quick...
402276
As this doesn't stay this cleaned off, very long.....

[John Isgren]

Now that I am working in the shop I have pared down my shopping list. This should allow me to do all of the projects I have in mind for the foreseeable future. I appreciate everyone’s comments above!

Vintage Stanley #4
Vintage Stanley #5 - already own
Vintage Stanley #7
Stanley handyman converted to scrub - already own

Veritas plow plane with T&G and beading blades
Veritas Router plane

Saw shaped object for rough breakdown - already own
(will be on look out for good vintage rip and cross cut full size saws later)

LN panel Rip saw
LN Tapered Dovetail
LN Tapered Tennon (rip)
LN Tapered Carcase
(will add saw sharpening equipment later in the year)

80s Vintage Marples chisels set - already own
Thor mallet - already own

LN Holdfast (2)
Benchcrafted plane stop
Eclipse 10” QR vise

titemark marking gauge (2)
Veritas mortise gauge - already own
dividers (2’)
12” combo square
marking knifes - already own

Wood Owl auger bits
Brad point drill bits

DMT sharpening plates

Grizzly 17” bandsaw
dust collector - already own

[John Isgren]

Instead of the panel saws I decided to go with some vintage saws from vintagesaws.com. A 28” 5.5pt Phoenix rip and a 26” 8pt Atkins #51 crosscut. I figure these would be good saws to use and then learn to sharpen. Once I get good I can look for the D12...

[Bill Houghton]

1. A rule. I'd recommend a two-foot one to start, although you may want to supplement that fairly soon with a 6" rule if you find hand tools to your liking. Don't go nuts on price, but do get quality (people say nice things about PEC; don't know, never held one). If you're buying it in person, and you trust the rule on your 12" square, use it to check the accuracy of the graduations on the rule.

2. You can't bring it home, but your friendly local library is a tool you should use to its maximum. Books or DVDs on hand tool woodworking can give you the basic concepts without spending any more money than the cost to get there. It looks from the interweb like your nearest library is in Kountze, a bit of a drive; I was defeated when I tried to look at the catalog, couldn't find it.

[John Isgren]

It looks from the interweb like your nearest library is in Kountze, a bit of a drive; I was defeated when I tried to look at the catalog, couldn't find it.

Kountze is “Town” for us, about 20 minute drive. Fortunately I still have access to Harris County and Houston libraries. Unfortunately very little is available digitally so I will need to go in and see what they have.

[Herv Peairs]

Hi John,

A few years ago I was where you are now. My progress has been slow, mainly due to the fact that gardening tends to trump woodworking, but it's coming along. I'm still in the building shop appliances stage. Maybe I need to move further north where the winters are longer. Here are some thoughts:

To teach your hands, video is your friend, second only to an actual teacher. Nothing beats seeing someone actually, say, plane a board. When you have a new task at hand, refer to several video sources that demonstrate what you need to do. Approaches differ to a surprising extent. I have watched and learned from Christopher Schwarz, Paul Sellers, The English Woodworker, The Renaissance Woodworker, David Charlesworth, Rob Cosman, Tom Fidgen, and most recently, Matt Estlea. A lot of useful videos are available for free on YouTube. Don't get me wrong, I love books and am reading some of the old masters like Charles Hayward. But without video, I'd be lost.

Tool rehab is seductive. I enjoyed doing it. It's not woodworking. If I were starting over, I'd mostly buy new tools rather than fuss with old ones.

I see Lie-Nielsen saws on your list. If learning to sharpen handsaws is not high on your list (it's not woodworking), LN is a very good choice, other things being more or less equal, because they'll sharpen your LN saw for $25. That's a deal. I am an amateur hobbyist with a full-time job that has nothing to do with wood. Apprentice rites of passage like freehand honing and saw sharpening are cool and useful. But if your time is limited, you don't have to go there unless you want to.

Good luck!
Herv

[Brian Holcombe]

19th century Disston and similar panel saws are fantastic, I certainly prefer them to modern.

[Jacob Reverb]

A good, easy-to-read 6" rule. I like this one (it has 32nds and 64ths on the back):

http://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/C604RE-6

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61CybPr0BEL._SL1500_.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

A good, easy-to-read 6" rule. I like this one (it has 32nds and 64ths on the back):



Does anyone use 64ths in woodworking?

My most used 6" rule comes from Bridge City Tools. One side reads from left to right and the other side reads right to left:

404145

https://bridgecitytools.com/collections/all/products/sr-6-6-pocket-rule

jtk

[Bill McDermott]

Although you probably already have these fundamentals, for the record I am adding:

- AWL, icepick or some other pointy thing. Use it for all sorts of things.
- KNIFE. I use a razor knife a lot. I also use a mora carving knife for a lot of trimming and cleaning.
- FILES. A good mill file and a half round cabinet rasp are super useful.
- HANDSCREWS. Two modestly sized handscrews provide solutions to all manner of work-holding problems.
- BENCHHOOK. Not for the shopping list. But I rate it as an essential hand tool.
- BROOM, BRUSH & DUSTPAN. Use 'em every time I'm in the shop. Like other tools, don't cheap out.
- GOOD LIGHTING. It really does improve accuracy.
- SANDING BLOCKS. A few blocks set up with replaceable sanding paper through the common grits get frequent use.
- OIL and WAX. Some way to keep them handy for regular use to lube cutting tools and for general wiping / protection.
- COUNTERSINK.
- SCREWDRIVER. A good quality 10 in 1.
- HAMMERS. A general purpose claw hammer and a tack hammer.
- SCRAPERS. A Card Scraper for sure. I strongly recommend a carbide paint scraper as well. Just use that thing all the time. Glue, wood, gunk, whatever... amazing.

You might want to lay in some construction lumber. Pick some 2X boards that look good and let them dry and acclimate in your shop. E.g., 4"x4"s are useful but take a long time to shrink down to where they will stay. You will always find a use for construction lumber over time. While building out, you will eat a lot of it. Plus, you can play with your new toys on inexpensive wood.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Does anyone use 64ths in woodworking?


Only because I can further divide them by eye and estimate to the nearest 128th. Otherwise I would put a burr on it and turn it into a scraper.

[Jim Koepke]

Although you probably already have these fundamentals, for the record I am adding:

[edited]
- BENCHHOOK. Not for the shopping list. But I rate it as an essential hand tool.

- SANDING BLOCKS. A few blocks set up with replaceable sanding paper through the common grits get frequent use.

You might want to lay in some construction lumber. Pick some 2X boards that look good and let them dry and acclimate in your shop. E.g., 4"x4"s are useful but take a long time to shrink down to where they will stay. You will always find a use for construction lumber over time. While building out, you will eat a lot of it. Plus, you can play with your new toys on inexpensive wood.

With bench hooks you will find it is very handy to have them in pairs when supporting work on your bench for sawing or fine tuning.

After years of wood working it appears many starting out in woodworking focus on building a finished piece of work more than they do in learning the essentials. Making a few shop appliances like, bench hooks, shooting boards and saw horses are great tools in learning the basics of joinery and assembly.

All of my sanding blocks have coves (flutes) on the sides. This makes it easier to hold a sheet of sandpaper. A scrap of 1X4 makes a great 1/4 sheet size sanding block.

A stack of 2X3s and 2X4s was selected over time whenever there was a visit to either the blue or orange borg. Mostly they were selected for the way the grain was running. These came in handy when it came time to build a lumber rack. All the material was already on hand.

404154

It looks like a mess, but it has been organized a bit better since this picture was taken.

jtk

jtk

[Phil Gaudio]

John: I think it would be a daunting task to come with the definitive list of what you need in your hand tool workshop. I might take a slightly different approach: pick a skill or joint you want to master, and let that define what you need. If hand cut dovetails suits your fancy, then a relatively small number of tools is needed. Once you have mastered that, add projects and tools as needed. Approaching the problem this way may result in fewer mistakes being made in procuring tools you really don't need. Phil

[John Isgren]

John: I think it would be a daunting task to come with the definitive list of what you need in your hand tool workshop. I might take a slightly different approach: pick a skill or joint you want to master, and let that define what you need. If hand cut dovetails suits your fancy, then a relatively small number of tools is needed. Once you have mastered that, add projects and tools as needed. Approaching the problem this way may result in fewer mistakes being made in procuring tools you really don't need. Phil

That s basically how I have been building my list. I sketched up a couple of projects (starting with shop appliances and benches), then based on watching mainly Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman, I figured out what tools I needed. I am trying to keep it simple and not buy dedicated task tools. For example I will start doing rebates with saw in chisel vs buying a rebate plane. The most exotic things on the list are router and plow planes.

[John Isgren]

Been busy placing orders today! LV, LN, and Grizzly! Saws from Vintagesaws due tomorrow and 2 planes from Patrick Leech due next week!

[John Isgren]

First boxes coming in. First up two vintage saws from vintagesaws.com
404779

1930s Atkins 51 Crosscut 8pt 26”
404780404781

Phoenix Rip saw 28”

404782

Vintagesaws.com was a pleasure to do business with. I decided that I wanted older saws, but I wanted them already tuned so I know what good is once I start sharpening myself.

[Jim Koepke]

Looks like you will have years of service from those two.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Blue tape! :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Cornwall]

Someone might have said this but in case nobody said this, that welder is not a good idea in your wood shop.

[John Isgren]

Someone might have said this but in case nobody said this, that welder is not a good idea in your wood shop.
I agree that it is not ideal, but it is what I have to work with. That end of the shop will be the cleanest, and all of the welding equipment is on wheels,so I can move out into the main barn if I am doing a lot of welding. Beyond that I will follow the 45 minutes rule and not leave the shop for 45 min after metal working (welding or grinding).

[Mike Cornwall]

I found for me welding just takes a lot of space, on top of the obvious stuff about grinding and cutting and oil everywhere.

I’m a guy who wants to do everything and I put a lot of money and energy into welding stuff. But I end up going to my friends metal shop up the road to do metal rather than build a whole new shop for it.

I didn’t mean for my comment to sound high handed.

[John Isgren]

Some more hardware has come in. Vintage planes from Patrick Leach.

405459

1930s #7 and Type 11 #4. Both are in great shape. I just touched up the blade on the #7 and used it right out of the box. I will do a better clean up on it later. Patrick’s prices were at the upper end of what I saw on eBay, but it is worth it to me to have a guarantee and know exactly what you are buying. It was a pleasure doing business with him!

[Kevin Hampshire]

You have the Veritas Small Plow Plane on your list.

Why not get the Veritas Combination Plane?

Uses all of the Veritas blades and I believe it can use all of the Stanley combination blades. More versatile than the Small Plow.


Also, never used a vintage wooden rabbet, but with the Veritas Skew Rabbet in my till, never wanted to use a wooden one. The Skew is a great Plane.

[John Isgren]

Update. Have received most of the tools and really just waiting on the plow plane. I absolutely love the Lie-Nielson tapered saws. They fit me like a glove! I had planned to look at Hollows and rounds in the future, but Oatrick Leach had a set that called my name!
405980
405981
Overall they are in great shape, a couple of irons will need to be reproduced, but the rest just need to be cleaned and sharpened.

[Robert Engel]

Careful or you'll seen have a right nice collection of tools, 80% of which you never use.

That said, its hard to pass up some deals.

Seriously, I think the best approach is buy the tools you need, rather than tools you 'think' you need.

This can really only be done by working through a project, realizing "now if I only had x, y, z tool".

That said, I try not to buy tools with very limited use. I remember picking up a side rabbet plane, thinking that had to be the niftiest thing go have. In 5 years I've used it maybe 3 times. Fortunately not an expensive item.

Then there is the idea of different ways to approach a task. For example, you can use a plow plane to plow a groove. But a router plane with a fence can accomplish the same task, albeit not as efficiently. This is something to think about if you don't like looking at another $300 tool on the shelf :).

[john zulu]

As I mentioned in another post I am in the process of building out a hand tool shop. This is my plans and wishlist so far:

Planes
Block plane - LN
#4 LN, #5 Vintage Bailey, #7 LN - Stanley Handyman converted to scrub
Veritas Joinery set -Small Plow, Skew Rabbet, Router, Medium Shoulder

Saws - LN
Rip Panel, Crosscut panel, Tapered dovetail, Tapered tenon, Tapered Carcase
Vintage coping

Chisels
Marples 6 pc set

Marking
Titemark (2), Veritas mortise gauge, 12” combo square, Panel gauge, Dividers (2)

Sharpening
I have 3 water stone + 1 diamond plate + strop

Boring
Vintage brace, Brad point set, Auger but set

Misc
Wooden handle drivers, Saw files, Saw set, Cabinet makers rasp, holdfast (2), plane stop

Machines
17” Grizzly bandsaw, dust extractor, Dewalt planer, I still have a small Ryobi table saw with a sliding miter.

i have clamps, etc to get me started.

What am I missing. Initial projects will be shop related, but plan to make furniture for the house.

The first question is. Sheet goods or solid wood. Both requires quite different tools. If there is still room get a compressor and nail gun. Can make your work and jigs fast. A belt sander will also be a good choice for both spectrum.
I tend to use dowels when it comes to sheet goods. Solid wood depends on the application. It can be very strong too. The type of tools you use for your projects really depends on your end goal. I have an array of hand tools. Now usually
using the block plane while the rest are in storage. At least for me the bandsaw is a must. Can rip wood very fast. Cross cut to it's final dimension is a good choice too.

[John Isgren]

The first question is. Sheet goods or solid wood. Both requires quite different tools. If there is still room get a compressor and nail gun. Can make your work and jigs fast. A belt sander will also be a good choice for both spectrum.
I tend to use dowels when it comes to sheet goods. Solid wood depends on the application. It can be very strong too. The type of tools you use for your projects really depends on your end goal. I have an array of hand tools. Now usually
using the block plane while the rest are in storage. At least for me the bandsaw is a must. Can rip wood very fast. Cross cut to it's final dimension is a good choice too.

Mostly solid wood with hand tools. Bandsaw is delivered and I do have a tablesaw, air compressor, nail guns etc for sheet good work

[bill epstein]

+1 on lighting, the most essential item of all. Bounce lighting from the cheap aluminum incandescent reflectors photogs use is great.

Adding to your list, 6" and 18" hook rule. 6" essential, 18" nice to have.

And what's with the machines? I thought it was a "hand tool" shop :D

[John Isgren]

Lighting is 2/3 done. Putting 3 sets of strip lights in. Each strip has 3-8ft fixtures with 4 led bulbs in each fixture. Going for at least 100 lux per the sticky in the workshop thread.

[Matthew Springer]

Having gone through this myself over the last couple years:
I really like a dedicated shooting board plane. I picked up a LN #9 way back when. a LV low angle jack works really well also.

I found it useful to use two different techniques for sharpening. Basically regular edge maintenance on waterstones or diamonds stones and "I need to flatten a large area of steel (chisel back through #7) bed without dying" using sandpaper on granite plates.

Multiple router planes are awesome because you can use them as depth gauges as well as for taking out wood.

I also use multiple layout tools at once because I can keep track of different things as I go.

I suck at curved sawing (fret,bow,coping, etc), so I use a lot of rasps and files and spokeshaves. Mostly, I do bandsaw -> spokeshave -> file.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I'm a carpenter for 40 plus years but a 100% power tool guy. I'm retired now and am in the process of registering for a hand tool joint class for a week. It was suggested that look at this web site for an idea of the tools to bring or that we will be using

https://woodandshop.com/which-hand-tools-do-you-need-for-traditional-woodworking/

Regards

Tom

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Thomas and welcome to the Creek.

The main tooling needed for almost any hand tool joinery would be:

• Marking and layout
- pencil or knife suitable for marking
- marking gauge (some like wheels some like pins)
- square (one to check the stock and it is helpful to have one small enough to check the sides of your tails for square.)
- bevel gauge or dovetail layout gauge (a bevel gauge comes in handy for many types of joinery, a dovetail gauge is a one trick pony.)
- dividers or other measuring device

• Cutting tools
- Saw for initial cutting (many prefer a western style back saw, others prefer Japanese style pull saws.)
- Many people like to use a coping or fret saw to remove the waste.
- Chisels for chopping and paring. (chisels needs to be small enough to fit into your smallest sockets yet large enough to pare the widest open areas.)

Beyond this short list it can also be helpful to have a shooting board and plane to get your joinery square from the start.

jtk

[David Bassett]

... I'm... in the process of registering for a hand tool joint class for a week....

I'd strongly suggest not getting any tools you aren't required to bring until after you finish the class. Once you have that experience, you'll have a better understanding of what you'll want/need and how to evaluate advice and recommendations.

Some schools have loaner tools and other classes have a required tool list. What does your class say specifically?

[John Isgren]

I'm a carpenter for 40 plus years but a 100% power tool guy. I'm retired now and am in the process of registering for a hand tool joint class for a week. It was suggested that look at this web site for an idea of the tools to bring or that we will be using

https://woodandshop.com/which-hand-tools-do-you-need-for-traditional-woodworking/

Regards

Tom

That list is pretty close to what I am starting with.

i developed my list by drawing up some ideas for the projects that I want to work on. Then I have spent a lot of time on YouTube specifically looking for the techniques I need for my projects. Basically I narrowed it down to Rob Crossman and Paul Sellers as my main inspiration. I have tried to avoid task-specific and speacialty tools. The exceptions are the router plane and plow planes. The router is so versatile and the plow since I know I will be making a lot of drawers.

i have not had to buy chisels yet as I had a set, but I would not buy a set at this point. You are better off getting just a couple of sizes of better chisels for now.

[John Isgren]

Lights are done!

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